UPDATE: Changed topic 01/23/23 to Tech - Olympic Hockey EM issues.

Starting a thread for an Olympic Hockey machine I just picked up and I know that I am going to need some assistance with.

At this point I started to tear down the entire top of the playfield as I do with all the machines I get. Right away I am noticing pop bumpers will be needed as well as a few other parts but for the most part the playfield will clean up. Only issue is some wear around the pops.

Upon taking out the top arch I noticed that one of the bulbs had the plastic tube. This one was yellow. Most machines of this era have 2 yellow and two red tubes. Can anyone confirm for me what Olympic Hockey is supposed to have?

Realize that was just wondering what the original ones were.

Need a Diode. Wondering if there’s a replacement I can use for Hitachi 1S315? Hate to buy these as I only need one so wondering if I can use a 1N4001 or 1N4004 in its place?

Ok so I lied, there are no bulbs in the upper arch !! Forgive me as I obtained a machine that was essentially a “barn find”. So, anyone aware if this machine had the plastic light tubes? If so where did they go??

I’m not one that typically takes pics of a tear down but here are a few.

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Did he advise what the price would be? Not sure about the vinyl to glass process.

Btw does any of you GI bulbs have the plastic sleeves on it and, if so, where are they located?

300 for a film that you then have to apply yourself isn’t too bad but then you still have to buy the glass and a lift channel.

I haven’t even lit my line up yet but I can tell the red in HOCKEY has cracking to it. So we shall see.

I know Shay isn’t going to do a screened version so Coos or BgResto is the only other option.

Thanks for the response.

So at this point I have to order parts (tomorrow) and wait for them to come in before I can finish the playfield. Will start on cleaning up the cabinet tomorrow!

Minor set back on the cabinet. Come to find out the front right joint was broken.
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But after a little time I was able to get it back together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I also replaced all of the missing supports for the bottom of the cabinet.
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Removed a sticker.
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So this is a first…..I’ve used a can of air, turn it upside down and it sprays a freezing air out. This typically freezes the sticker and it comes off easy-peasy. Not this time, the decal separated. image (resized).jpg

and it continues with this decal…… once I removed the first layer I then removed the adhesive. It was almost like a heavy duty rubber cement. Unlike rubber cement this stuff was really tacky.
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To my surprise, after the adhesive was removed the artwork remained. I thin used a heat gun and removed another layer of the decal.
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And yet another layer of adhesive….
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A lot of time spent on removing a decal but it’s done!!

With the cabinet complete moving into reassembling the playfield.

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Thanks for the post! For me, my plastic are in great shape. Haven’t lit the backglass up yet so not sure there.

Most of the topside of the playfield is back together.

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Question - was there any ground braid in this game?
Previous owner had an extension cord off the ground wire, for the plug, going to the coin door and one of the brackets to the power supply.

I’m thinking just added them as I don’t believe games of this era had grounding wire/braid.

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Today’s word is determined. As in i am determined to get the coins out of this mache no matter what!! C4FC541B-2E61-4740-AB05-BC54190C32A3 (resized).jpeg

Not being able to locate another I did the best I could.

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Thanks for the offer. I’ll pm ya.

I like the through lighted up. It’s not over powering.

Was able to work on mine some more. The coin door was the focus as it was beat.

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Finished working on the board today.
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Alway check the fuses as a lot of times I find the wrong ones installed. This was no surprise as 3 of the 4 fuses were wrong. Previous owner installed one 10a in the right place then 30a in the remaining spots (they’re were supposed to be 10 and 15a fuses.

So when I took the cam apart I swore I took pics but ….. so I believe I got it back together correctly
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Backglass not too bad.

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Unfortunately, my time back east is coming to an end in a few days. So this will take it back shelf until I come back. Not going to be enjoying it anytime soon.

Started working on the back box. First thing I took apart was the animated puck mech. There’s all kind of grease and dirt on this thing.
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Minor set back on lamp board as somehow a previous owner broke apart one of the (whatchamccallits) light partitions. This will get fixed At a later time.
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Yeah agree. Will be an easy fix though.

Whoever own this in the past felt the need to lubricate every moving part. There’s so much grease on this thing.

Good news is the rink is in excellent condition

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Cleaned all the grease and not really sure what else it was off the one mech.

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Just to elaborate, this era did have a ground wire that came off the plug connected to the board and then ran to the bracket on the power supply. Looking at the picture below you can see the two green arrows pointing to where the ground wire from the plug is connected to the wire on the board and runs to the power supply. At both points there's a sticker on the board that states GROUND WIRE.
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But I think you, as well as I, were speaking more to the machine having ground wire attaching to all components of the machine. This era of machine didn't have that. Appears a previous owner took it upon themselves to run a ground wire (old cord) from the coin door to the ground on the plug (referring to picture in post #21).

With all that said .... unfortunately I am back West so the work on the machine stops here until I can get back East!

So I’m back East for few months, still need a diode for the Buzzer coil. Anyone provide input on the above question?

And, if 1N4001 or 4 is suitable which side would the ban go on?

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Bump for night crowd

Be glad to take a picture BUT my machine is at the point it’s cleaned up but is not working at all!

I’m thinking my cams might be out of sequence? I believe this is the typical issue when getting nothing when turning a EM on??

My plan is to start trying to get it up and running next week.

No apologies needed. Some people would tell you to start your own thread but feel free to post here as I may encounter the same issue(s).

Updated thread topic to Tech - Olympic Hockey EM issues.

I never use sandpaper on the contacts. I’ve always used a wire wheel on a Dremel tool. It cleans the contacts great without filing them down!

Ok finally getting to look at my machine. When I power it on absolutely nothing happens other than the coils in the pop bumpers quickly energize.

If I press the start button the GI lights (only) come on, no insert or pop lights. The cam just continuously spins. I made sure the cam closest to the motor was positioned so it sits in one of the 2 notches.

I have no lights in the back box at all.

Also, anyone have schematics for this game that can advise as to what fuses go to what?

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Thank you!

Verified all fuses are good but the below issues still persist. Where to start?

Messing with game. Took out the board in lower cabinet and inspected all the switches. Found 1 on Lock Relay that wasn’t gapped properly and few others that looked as though they weren’t making great contact.

Turned game on and right away the coil on the coin door coil and pop bumper coils engage briefly (fire once) and the Cams

At this point no lights are on or anything for that matter. When I press start the cams continuously rotate, the coin door coil fires on n off and the Score Reset Relay pulsates.

Player 1 resets to zero but not Player 2.

Also, if I press start button second time the pop bumpers engage and don’t release.

Several issues going on here.

Thanks Howard, always appreciate your willingness to help out. Hope to get time Sunday to work on it. Will report back!

Forgot to mention, and obviously, after a few seconds of the pops engaging the 15A fuse blows (second to last from the bottom of the tower of four fuses).

So it’s Sunday and I worked on the machine a little. I spent all my time cleaning and properly gapping all the switched in the bottom of the cabinet and also all the switches under the playfield on the board.

I then started to clean and gap the switches on Player 2 and that’s where I stopped.

More to come ….

Slow going here but got a few to clean and gap more switches.

Found the pops firing odd as all of them where. When I cleaned the pf I replaced all the skirts. Come to find that, either the new skirts are longer or the others were worn as all the switches were closed.

Upon powering machine up the pops no longer fire and the cam moves a notch. No lights on the machine at this time.

Upon pressing start button the GI lights, including back box, come on. Cam spins continuously, player 1 and 2 scores reset with the exception of the 10k and 100-900 Units on Player 2 and the Score Reset Relay continuously fires.

Haven’t used jumper wire as of yet. Never done it this not really sure what and where to jump on this machine but will read the links Howard provided to try n figure out.

Just want to provide what iam doing and finding so I don’t forget and to keep this post active.

Thanks!!

The reels move freely by hand. I actually took them both apart and cleaned them and ensured the switches are gapped. I did this today and same result.

So scores reset with the exception of the 10k and 100-900 Units on Player 2 and the Score Reset Relay continuously fires???

Yes

It does not score. It appears the assembly that runs the coils for the puck in the backglass is holding it up. The coils are firing but not advancing the puck.

I took this assembly completely apart and cleaned it to no avail. It works sometimes. Any advise on this assembly?
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Thinking needing to look more at switches.

Wanted to follow up on this. I did as you instructed and player 2 still doesn’t score if I manually pulse the relays.

Welcome any more insight BUT know that I am now back out in CA so I won’t get to work on the machine unti I head back East.

Thanks for all the input.