(Topic ID: 313648)

TECH - Olympic Hockey EM Issues

By meSz

9 months ago


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  • 52 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Miked42
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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 months ago

UPDATE: Changed topic 01/23/23 to Tech - Olympic Hockey EM issues.

Starting a thread for an Olympic Hockey machine I just picked up and I know that I am going to need some assistance with.

At this point I started to tear down the entire top of the playfield as I do with all the machines I get. Right away I am noticing pop bumpers will be needed as well as a few other parts but for the most part the playfield will clean up. Only issue is some wear around the pops.

Upon taking out the top arch I noticed that one of the bulbs had the plastic tube. This one was yellow. Most machines of this era have 2 yellow and two red tubes. Can anyone confirm for me what Olympic Hockey is supposed to have?

#2 9 months ago

You can make them whatever color you like. In the case of WMS Hockey, I would go with a green and yellow on each side.

#3 9 months ago

I'll be watching this thread with interest. I also recently picked up an Olympic Hockey that will need to be completely torn down, although I have a couple of projects ahead of it in line though. Post plenty of pictures!

#4 9 months ago
Quoted from Mikala:

You can make them whatever color you like. In the case of WMS Hockey, I would go with a green and yellow on each side.

Realize that was just wondering what the original ones were.

#5 9 months ago

Need a Diode. Wondering if there’s a replacement I can use for Hitachi 1S315? Hate to buy these as I only need one so wondering if I can use a 1N4001 or 1N4004 in its place?

#6 9 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Starting a thread for an Olympic Hockey machine I just picked up and I know that I am going to need some assistance with.
At this point I started to tear down the entire top of the playfield as I do with all the machines I get. Right away I am noticing pop bumpers will be needed as well as a few other parts but for the most part the playfield will clean up. Only issue is some wear around the pops.
Upon taking out the top arch I noticed that one of the bulbs had the plastic tube. This one was yellow. Most machines of this era have 2 yellow and two red tubes. Can anyone confirm for me what Olympic Hockey is supposed to have?

I picked up one a few weeks ago in good shape and clean. Have not done a full tear down yet. Glad to hear it has bulbs in the upper arch! I’m sure someone will answer your question before I tear mine down.

I did replace all coil sleeves under the playfield and rebuilt the flippers. Was very skeptical of the high ratings this pin had received. The playfield looks barren compared to many other pins.

The playfield layout is utterly brilliant! Very fast table and a blast to play. Just a great pin.

Currently working on a Time Zone and had forgotten they also had bulbs and tubes in the arch. Three of the four red tubes are in good condition and can send a couple of them if you want the original look. The tubes add just a hint of color.

I know it’s a matter of taste, but I like the warm LEDs in the EMs. There are two reds and two whites installed.

9C7B72FD-DE85-4AAD-B04D-5D0A50F6C718 (resized).jpeg

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from Mikala:

You can make them whatever color you like. In the case of WMS Hockey, I would go with a green and yellow on each side.

Ok so I lied, there are no bulbs in the upper arch !! Forgive me as I obtained a machine that was essentially a “barn find”. So, anyone aware if this machine had the plastic light tubes? If so where did they go??

Quoted from Jackaltr:

Post plenty of pictures!

I’m not one that typically takes pics of a tear down but here are a few.

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#8 9 months ago

My guess is one of these two spots to keep the bulb from shattering. Most likely done after the fact by someone.

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#9 9 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Ok so I lied, there are no bulbs in the upper arch !!

I was a little skeptical when you first posted this since Williams eliminated cabaret lighting around 67-68, but that doesn’t mean you can’t add it in now. Most likely, your bottom top apron has the 4 holes for the light bulbs. So just add it in and I still suggest you go with a green and yellow on each side. I have added cabaret lighting on all of my Williams machines.

#10 9 months ago

Am I a heratic for thinking about this? Coos said he can do it. My BG is not horrible but just so utterly bland. Done quickly in MS Paint but you get the jist.

Olympic with added Colors V2 (resized).jpg

Original;
Orginal Olympic Colors (resized).jpg

#11 9 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Am I a heratic for thinking about this? Coos said he can do it. My BG is not horrible but just so utterly bland. Done quickly in MS Paint but you get the jist.
[quoted image]
Original;
[quoted image]

Did he advise what the price would be? Not sure about the vinyl to glass process.

Btw does any of you GI bulbs have the plastic sleeves on it and, if so, where are they located?

#12 9 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Did he advise what the price would be? Not sure about the vinyl to glass process.
Btw does any of you GI bulbs have the plastic sleeves on it and, if so, where are they located?

It’s almost 300 just for the vinyl with shipping.

Mine didn’t have any plastic tubes on any GI. But mine had originally gone through some dealer, all associated coin door mechs had been stripped out too.

#13 9 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

It’s almost 300 just for the vinyl with shipping

300 for a film that you then have to apply yourself isn’t too bad but then you still have to buy the glass and a lift channel.

I haven’t even lit my line up yet but I can tell the red in HOCKEY has cracking to it. So we shall see.

I know Shay isn’t going to do a screened version so Coos or BgResto is the only other option.

Quoted from Garrett:

Mine didn’t have any plastic tubes on any GI. But mine had originally gone through some dealer, all associated coin door mechs had been stripped out too.

Thanks for the response.

So at this point I have to order parts (tomorrow) and wait for them to come in before I can finish the playfield. Will start on cleaning up the cabinet tomorrow!

#14 9 months ago

Minor set back on the cabinet. Come to find out the front right joint was broken.
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But after a little time I was able to get it back together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I also replaced all of the missing supports for the bottom of the cabinet.
image (resized).jpg

#15 9 months ago

Removed a sticker.
image (resized).jpg
So this is a first…..I’ve used a can of air, turn it upside down and it sprays a freezing air out. This typically freezes the sticker and it comes off easy-peasy. Not this time, the decal separated. image (resized).jpg

#16 9 months ago

and it continues with this decal…… once I removed the first layer I then removed the adhesive. It was almost like a heavy duty rubber cement. Unlike rubber cement this stuff was really tacky.
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To my surprise, after the adhesive was removed the artwork remained. I thin used a heat gun and removed another layer of the decal.
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And yet another layer of adhesive….
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A lot of time spent on removing a decal but it’s done!!

#17 9 months ago

With the cabinet complete moving into reassembling the playfield.

image (resized).jpg
#18 9 months ago

BTW, I did the rework for the backglass that Coos offers (did it for a restorer friend who then had him make one). I saw it in person, and it looks fantastic. If you prefer an alternate color pattern, I'm happy to make adjustments and you can provide him with the art (might save you some money with him).

I also have done custom plastics for two Olympic Hockey pins if you can't find them and need a source (playfield pieces and the hockey rink in the back box). Please PM me to discuss if interested.

image0 (resized).jpeg

#19 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BTW, I did the rework for the backglass that Coos offers (did it for a restorer friend who then had him make one). I saw it in person, and it looks fantastic. If you prefer an alternate color pattern, I'm happy to make adjustments and you can provide him with the art (might save you some money with him).
I also have done custom plastics for two Olympic Hockey pins if you can't find them and need a source (playfield pieces and the hockey rink in the back box). Please PM me to discuss if interested.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the post! For me, my plastic are in great shape. Haven’t lit the backglass up yet so not sure there.

Most of the topside of the playfield is back together.

image (resized).jpg
#20 9 months ago

The five pops are hilarious at times and really get the bells singing!

#21 9 months ago

Question - was there any ground braid in this game?
Previous owner had an extension cord off the ground wire, for the plug, going to the coin door and one of the brackets to the power supply.

I’m thinking just added them as I don’t believe games of this era had grounding wire/braid.

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#22 9 months ago

Original did not have a ground wire, this era didn’t.

#23 9 months ago

Today’s word is determined. As in i am determined to get the coins out of this mache no matter what!! C4FC541B-2E61-4740-AB05-BC54190C32A3 (resized).jpeg

Not being able to locate another I did the best I could.

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#24 9 months ago

I think I have a pretty decent one you can have.

#25 9 months ago
Quoted from Jackaltr:

I think I have a pretty decent one you can have.

Thanks for the offer. I’ll pm ya.

#26 8 months ago

Installed a Comet trough light mod. And wanted to see how black flippers looked. Great game!

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#27 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Installed a Comet trough light mod. And wanted to see how black flippers looked. Great game![quoted image]

It is a really fun game. I'll try and get my backglass done this week so I can post results.

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#28 8 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

It is a really fun game. I'll try and get my backglass done this week so I can post results.[quoted image]

You print your own?

#29 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

You print your own?

Coos

#30 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Installed a Comet trough light mod. And wanted to see how black flippers looked. Great game![quoted image]

I like the through lighted up. It’s not over powering.

Was able to work on mine some more. The coin door was the focus as it was beat.

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#31 8 months ago

Would really like to see how it looks as I may get one from him too.

#32 8 months ago

My Quicksilver looks superb. I have no doubt my Olympic Hockey will look the same.

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#33 8 months ago

Finished working on the board today.
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Alway check the fuses as a lot of times I find the wrong ones installed. This was no surprise as 3 of the 4 fuses were wrong. Previous owner installed one 10a in the right place then 30a in the remaining spots (they’re were supposed to be 10 and 15a fuses.

So when I took the cam apart I swore I took pics but ….. so I believe I got it back together correctly
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image (resized).jpg

#34 8 months ago

Backglass not too bad.

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#35 8 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Finished working on the board today.
[quoted image]
Alway check the fuses as a lot of times I find the wrong ones installed. This was no surprise as 3 of the 4 fuses were wrong. Previous owner installed one 10a in the right place then 30a in the remaining spots (they’re were supposed to be 10 and 15a fuses.
So when I took the cam apart I swore I took pics but ….. so I believe I got it back together correctly
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Very nice, looks great again! Interested to see what you think of it when you get it back together.

I play my OH almost every night

#36 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Very nice, looks great again! Interested to see what you think of it when you get it back together.
I play my OH almost every night

Unfortunately, my time back east is coming to an end in a few days. So this will take it back shelf until I come back. Not going to be enjoying it anytime soon.

Started working on the back box. First thing I took apart was the animated puck mech. There’s all kind of grease and dirt on this thing.
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Minor set back on lamp board as somehow a previous owner broke apart one of the (whatchamccallits) light partitions. This will get fixed At a later time.
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#37 8 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Unfortunately, my time back east is coming to an end in a few days. So this will take it back shelf until I come back. Not going to be enjoying it anytime soon.
Started working on the back box. First thing I took apart was the animated puck mech. There’s all kind of grease and dirt on this thing.
[quoted image]
Minor set back on lamp board as somehow a previous owner broke apart one of the (whatchamccallits) light partitions. This will get fixed At a later time.
[quoted image]

Common issue I would guess. Mine has some deterioration as well, particleboard.

#38 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Common issue I would guess. Mine has some deterioration as well, particleboard.

Yeah agree. Will be an easy fix though.

Whoever own this in the past felt the need to lubricate every moving part. There’s so much grease on this thing.

Good news is the rink is in excellent condition

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#39 8 months ago

Cleaned all the grease and not really sure what else it was off the one mech.

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2 weeks later
#40 8 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Original did not have a ground wire, this era didn’t.

Just to elaborate, this era did have a ground wire that came off the plug connected to the board and then ran to the bracket on the power supply. Looking at the picture below you can see the two green arrows pointing to where the ground wire from the plug is connected to the wire on the board and runs to the power supply. At both points there's a sticker on the board that states GROUND WIRE.
03AFB2D5-E7F8-4BA6-982B-6520F0F38621 (resized).jpeg
But I think you, as well as I, were speaking more to the machine having ground wire attaching to all components of the machine. This era of machine didn't have that. Appears a previous owner took it upon themselves to run a ground wire (old cord) from the coin door to the ground on the plug (referring to picture in post #21).

With all that said .... unfortunately I am back West so the work on the machine stops here until I can get back East!

6 months later
#41 39 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Need a Diode. Wondering if there’s a replacement I can use for Hitachi 1S315? Hate to buy these as I only need one so wondering if I can use a 1N4001 or 1N4004 in its place?

So I’m back East for few months, still need a diode for the Buzzer coil. Anyone provide input on the above question?

And, if 1N4001 or 4 is suitable which side would the ban go on?

13EE983D-59F0-48C9-85E1-5FBDBD30583A (resized).jpeg
#42 39 days ago

Bump for night crowd

#43 39 days ago

The banded side of the diode should connect to the buzzer coil.

4 weeks later
#44 11 days ago

I think I'm having issues with my Advance Unit on my Olympic Hockey pin. Works no problem for the 2nd player with the puck going to the right. The issue is with the 1st player when the puck is going to the left. The relay pulls in, doesn't de-energize until I manually open a set of contacts on the same unit.
It's a stacked set of contacts with spacers- Looks like one of the spacers might be missing or something.

I really need a good pic of someone's Goal Advance Unit so I can compare to mine. The side that shows the relays, gears, switches, etc would be awesome!
If anyone has one of these Advance Units for sale let me know
Thanks!

#45 10 days ago
Quoted from bisceg1:

I think I'm having issues with my Advance Unit on my Olympic Hockey pin. Works no problem for the 2nd player with the puck going to the right. The issue is with the 1st player when the puck is going to the left. The relay pulls in, doesn't de-energize until I manually open a set of contacts on the same unit.
It's a stacked set of contacts with spacers- Looks like one of the spacers might be missing or something.
I really need a good pic of someone's Goal Advance Unit so I can compare to mine. The side that shows the relays, gears, switches, etc would be awesome!
If anyone has one of these Advance Units for sale let me know
Thanks!

Be glad to take a picture BUT my machine is at the point it’s cleaned up but is not working at all!

I’m thinking my cams might be out of sequence? I believe this is the typical issue when getting nothing when turning a EM on??

My plan is to start trying to get it up and running next week.

#46 5 days ago

Hey guys I’m glad I found this thread as I just picked one up today. I’ve never worked on an em so this will be an adventure lol. Mine powers on but pops a fuse when I hit start button. Also the score motor on bottom cabinet just keeps spinning. I’m looking for a manual to buy as I believe fuses are not proper. Also my wiring looks different off my transformer..

Also I’m new at posting on here as it seems confusing. Apologize in advance

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#47 3 days ago
Quoted from Miked42:

Hey guys I’m glad I found this thread as I just picked one up today. I’ve never worked on an em so this will be an adventure lol. Mine powers on but pops a fuse when I hit start button. Also the score motor on bottom cabinet just keeps spinning. I’m looking for a manual to buy as I believe fuses are not proper. Also my wiring looks different off my transformer..
Also I’m new at posting on here as it seems confusing. Apologize in advance
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No apologies needed. Some people would tell you to start your own thread but feel free to post here as I may encounter the same issue(s).

Updated thread topic to Tech - Olympic Hockey EM issues.

#48 2 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

No apologies needed. Some people would tell you to start your own thread but feel free to post here as I may encounter the same issue(s).
Updated thread topic to Tech - Olympic Hockey EM issues.

So I’ve started cleaning everything which will be a long process… printed out the manual. I’ve noticed several loose screws on relay’s and starting to trace wires. I’ve found a bare burnt up wire on came setup. I suppose this one has many issues. At this point I just want the start motor to stop. Not sure yet as to why it’s blowing fuses on the 15amp fuse (3rd one down) but I believe start motor should stop without pushing start button.

Maybe ball count or advance not going into reset? I’ll be pulling and cleaning those boards and spider. Hard to tell where test position is on schematic.

Is 400 grit sand paper ok to use between contacts? I see so many different opinions on this. Also what’s best to use cleaning the grease and traces on ball count board and other in back box?

E888D9DE-DB08-4B24-8AB1-C246C8A7DB0A (resized).jpeg
#49 2 days ago
Quoted from Miked42:

I just want the start motor to stop

Which one(s) of these switches/relays is keeping the motor running?

pasted_image (resized).png
#50 1 day ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Which one(s) of these switches/relays is keeping the motor running?
[quoted image]

I suppose it could be any one of those relays. I need to look up sequence of operation as I’m unsure if the score motor comes on when powered up. I would think it comes on initially when start/replay button is pushed. I’m going to start with cleaning those first and check them out

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