To me, the blue wire jumper looks out of place. The orange wire jumper looks like it replaced the bare braid that was probably cut when they replaced the ball return relay coil above.

Without a schematic to look at, its hard to tell.

If it were me I would just have someone snap a picture of those 3 relays for you.

There are 10 Pinsiders who own Capersville you could email so the chance of you getting a picture is very good.

http://pinside.com/pinball/archive/capersville/owners

Ken

The 3rd lug is not normally there, it is most-likely the wrong coil. Correct coil is 85Ω KK -331.

The coil you have is a dual wound coil 88Ω, but it should be just fine anyway.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/K-33-1880_33-32

I think cutting the orange wire is NOT correct. Both the hold RE and Ball return RE are interconnected on the return side of the coils. See schematic Hold RE 34 and Ball return RE 41, both connected to the same wire (orange wire).
The blue wire maybe also correct. My schematic is of poor quality, can’t read if the RE SW I can see is the hold RE, I think it is. if you can scan your Schematic sections 14, 34 and 41 then post here, it would help. You have already done the 41 section, I see.

The bit I can’t read on my schematic is “Bounce”, and I’m not sure what the Bounce SW is. So the blue wire is not meant to be there.

Look at the bit of schematic you have uploaded (Thanks for that). The anti- cheat coil has to connections on one side. One from the Scr Motor and one from the Anti-cheat RE (Hold SW), both are White/grey wires. There is NO connection to the coil of the Hold RE. If you look at the Hold RE, there are a total of six SWs that can power the coil, none of them are the Anti-cheat RE.

My guess is the blue wire is there because, one may except the tilt Sws to power the anti-cheat RE, but going by the schematic they don’t directly power the Anti-Cheat coil.

If this was a bomb, Cut the blue wire, NOT the orange wire!!

The Bounce switch and the Shut off Switch are normally those weighted tilt switches or possibly the "kick off" switch that feels the underside of the cabinet bottom. As you can see, they are normally closed and allow the Anti-cheat relay to hold in once either the left flipper button or a score motor function (like coin drop) has begun.

I forgot what game a few of us were working on (anothher older Bally) that DID use 3 lug coils for certain functions where you wanted a quick response and then a reduction in hold power (used EOS switches). I think they were feature relays on the playfield. Like Chrisbee said, more than likely, someone just robbed it from another game to replace a burned out one.