Both Flipperfinger are weak; what could be the cause?
Quoted from franz:Both Flipperfinger are weak; what could be the cause?
Have you rebuilt them?
Quoted from franz:Both Flipperfinger are weak
Try this: disassemble and clean plungers and coil sleeves with 91# rubbing alcohol and swabs. Then sand plungers with 600 grit sandpaper. Put a spritz of powdered graphite in sleeves before re-assembling.
Quoted from currieddog:Try this: disassemble and clean plungers and coil sleeves with 91# rubbing alcohol and swabs. Then sand plungers with 600 grit sandpaper. Put a spritz of powdered graphite in sleeves before re-assembling.
I would skip the graphite, not needed and messy. Take your time, order and wait for parts- it will be worth the wait.
Follow this guide-
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
More likely than your plungers being gunked up is the EOS switches opening too soon. Bally return springs aren't wound up like Gottlieb's were so that is not your issue.
It could be the plungers, but start at the EOS and work from there.
Does a chime with 3 sounds by Williams also work in a pinball machine by Bally,for example inside "Old Chicago"?
Quoted from HowardR:Old Chicago is 50 volts so you'd have to replace the solenoid coils if they would fit.
I've actually used a Gottlieb (25V) chime box in a Bally EM and it works just fine, even though it seems like it shouldn't...
Then it´s possible, that also works with a Williams chime box; but I think Williams is for 24V and it could be a problem with the solenoids....
Quoted from zacaj:I've actually used a Gottlieb (25V) chime box in a Bally EM and it works just fine, even though it seems like it shouldn't...
Yes, it works because the electrical pause is quick enough so the 50V doesn't do damage
to the 25V coils. Unless a playfield switch gets stuck, it'd probably stay okay..
To convert a 1 quarter per play to 2 quarters per play on a Bally Ball Bowler, I installed a 50V
step up coil on a 110V circuit. It worked, but you could really hear that plunger bottoming out, so
I spliced another empty 50V coil in the 50V step up's circuitry to act as a resister, and it cut it
down to 75V, which will be fine because the pause to it is very quick..
Not sure why Bally had to have a 110V coil for their Coin Relay, but it is..
Quoted from Mopar:Yes, it works because the electrical pause is quick enough so the 50V doesn't do damage
to the 25V coils. Unless a playfield switch gets stuck, it'd probably stay okay..
I wasn't expecting damage, but if you put a 25V coil in a 50V pop bumper, your bumper is going to be noticably stronger. But the chimes aren't super loud, they sound the same as a regular gottlieb machine would...
What can I do to make the chime box in my Bally Old Chicago quieter;
the chime box is not an original Bally but by Williams; the 3 Solenoids which are working are originally from Bally "Zip A Doo" and should work with the proper voltage (50V)
Quoted from franz:What can I do to make the chime box in my Bally Old Chicago quieter;
the chime box is not an original Bally but by Williams; the 3 Solenoids which are working are originally from Bally "Zip A Doo" and should work with the proper voltage (50V)
Can you post the part number of the coils just to confirm? Have you rebuilt the Chimes? (new pads, etc)
It looks from the coil charts like those are about 10 ohms? Is that correct? I couldn't find the 31-2000 in the chart but I measured mine and it's 50 ohms
I measured the coils;two have 7,5 ohms and one 11 ohms
What does "2000" on the coil mean? does it stand for the winding number?
Could I install a resistor in front of the coils?
The Coils designated "CC-31-2000" are read from the part list of Old Chicago for chime
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