(Topic ID: 72642)

Oh Carp, mt F-14 just took a dump on me. HELP!!

By GPS

10 years ago


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  • 110 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Patofnaud
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#22 10 years ago

And a miss adjusted switch isn't a 'dump' its normal for pins.

Now if your input bridge burnt and you had it unfused,,, that would be a dump

#40 10 years ago

Depends why it was cut.

If it was cut because someone hated knocker noise, then nothing will happen.
If cut because the coil is melted, then ba da boom you blow something up.

The correct question is, is there a way to test the coil BEFORE I hook it up.? Answer is yes.

Like any suspect coil look at it, if it is swollen, discolored and the plunger is hard to move. Stop and but a new coil/bushing.
If it look cleans and nothing is bound, then take and ohm meter and measure across the lugs, normally you will read a few or more ohms. If 0, you have a short somewhere, either the coil internally or the diode is shorted.
If it does read clean, then hook it back up, power it on and watch it as you power up. If it slams on power up, you have a logic problem, if not them your all set.

#45 10 years ago

Another thing to keep in mind, the adjust failure test is actually watching the switches in a machine that are activated 'over time' and are not really a diagnostic per se'.

For example my Demolition Man commonly shows a credit dot adjust failure because I NEVER use my flipper buttons. I always use the trigger grip handles. It reports it becuase somewhere it notices that those switches are not registering, so they must be bad.

In you case the adjust failure is registering because the machine is not seeing that switch happen during a few games and it know it is a major switch and should have. Does that mean the switch is 'bad'? No, it means it has not seen it register. That could be a bad switch, it usually is not a broken wire unless multiples register, but usually it is a 'adjust' failure.

Easiest way to test, put it in switch edge test with NO balls in the machine, and manually hit the 'skirt' of the pop bumper. If you register your good, if you have to push real hard, them your going to have trouble with the ball activating it. Look under the playfield and make sure the 'rod' is in the middle of the 'spoon'. If it is, then adjust the 'score switch' not the pop bumper coil switch, so that it is closer twhen not engaged until it register with minimal pressure on the skirt.

Note: When you lift the playfield you may start registering one of the two spinner targets due to gravity making them turn. Just ignore them or bind them up with a cloth or paper towel until your done.

#51 10 years ago

There are two switches.

The top stack closest to the playfield is the actuator switch that tells the MPU to fire the pop bumper. This is the one the 'spoon' actuates and causes the pop bumper to not fire at all if miss adjusted.

The second stack is the lower toward the bottom of the cab is the scoring switch (note the diode as it is on the switch matrix). Also note the white-yellow green-yellow for Switch Matrix #28. It is this lower one that closes when the pop bumper fires and causes it to score and clear the bit in the adjust failure test.

Pic taken off of my F-14 a few minutes ago.

DSC01128.JPGDSC01128.JPG

#60 10 years ago

Actually, you have the older style compression spring and the link looks like its seem some use. You may just want to order up a rebuild kit. It will come with new switches and all the parts to upgrade to newer snappier style.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=244

Vid has a nice guide how to do the conversions here..

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#62 10 years ago

DOH 2 minutes too late....!!!

1 week later
#76 10 years ago

Diodes across the coil are to sink the back EMF spike. Caps across the EOS switch are used to dampen the arcing caused when the contacts open/close. Not all machines have them. It will just cause the contacts to wear faster if you do not.

#79 10 years ago

A missing cap on an EOS would not be something to even hit my radar or be concerned about on a purchase.

Cutting off a connector and soldering right to a module is more what I would term a hack.

#94 10 years ago

FWIW, I've never seen a #89 socket go bad, never mind multiples.

Your chasing a ghost most likely. Try putting in regular incandescents, try running solenoid/flashers tests.

#100 10 years ago

"Just took all the flasher LED's out "

So it was not the flashers..... It was simple GI bulbs in the slingshots...???

You are NOT having flasher issues?

#102 10 years ago

Ok, what you are seeing then is simple GI connector burn out. That is very common. It is cause by underdesign/overload of the GI bulbs circuits.

As you are now running LED that will not happen again.

If the connector is really burnt bad, you will want to replace that connector. From the pic it does not look bad at all.
If the connector is just mildly burnt, and your reseat of the connector cleared up the problem, you are done. No more testing/removing components or you may/will end up breaking something.

#106 10 years ago

At this point what exactly are you trying to fix?

You had a flaky pop bumper that turned out to be a switch adjustment.
You proactively changed the zeners on the P/S to lower the display voltages.
You had a some GU out due to a connector issue that is all set.

Why are you randomly testing all of your transistors?
Do you have another problem that your trying to isolate that I am missing?

I'm lost.

#110 10 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hi Pato
I seem to be frustrating and I do not mean to do that. What I am trying to do is learn about these machines so that when there is some noob like me down the road I can pay it back and in between now and then have some fun learning
I was reading in the service manual for Syst 11 that a good way to check the output transistors is to check for continuity between the heat sink (base) and the ground strap in the machine. If one gets continuity the transistor is shorted and needs replacing. Just checking mine here to make sure all is ok I suppose
Well I start doing this and end up with five or so that do show continuity but the game appears to work correctly. As Wayout reported the one transistor that I have that is supposedly shorted controls the jet bumper. Now if it is shorted which it is indicating the jet bumper should not be working correctly. Problem is it is working
I am not trying to be the bane of anyone's existence and maybe I just need to take a break from asking questions. Very possible. I tend to be a bit intense some times in my desire to learn
That's all Pato. Hope you have a good eve
G

Not being a bane. "but the game appears to work correctly" It's just very hard helping you fix something when I do not know what you are trying to fix.

It's all well and good trying to learn, but no where do I see what you are troubleshooting. It looks like your looking for problems on a running machine. Not a good way to learn.

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