(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.


By centerflank

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,259 posts
  • 467 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by monkeyboypaul
  • Topic is favorited by 139 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 394 votes
    71%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
    18%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes
    11%

(555 votes)

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#7292 1 year ago

My recogniser motor in my newly acquired tron is quite loud.

When googling the issue an old pinside thread shows up with the suggestion to oil it as per a POTC service bulletin.
(https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-recognizer-motor-loud and http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb169.pdf )

As this information is quite old is there any change to this recommendation?

1 month later
#7381 1 year ago

On my machine when the ball exits the shooter lane it often rattles the shot, hits the pop bumper post or doesn't cleanly go into the orbit if at all.

I'll double check the shooter tip to make sure it's hitting the ball squarely in the middle but apart from that are there any other tricks?

#7385 1 year ago
Quoted from jardine:

Is this when you plunge or when it auto plunges?
My MET used to do this during auto plunge and I found that the cliffy was stuffing things up. Otherwise I've heard that if both teeth don't hit square this can be a problem as well.

Manual. I'll take some slow mo video of the ball getting struck and see if it shows what is going on.

I find that it happens atleast 1/2 the time.

7 months later
#7960 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Some progress made on my translight. Total cost so far is $40 and about 2 hours in labor soldering the lights up. Tied into 5v on my pig.

You inspired me to add the lights to mine!

#7962 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Could a person just do a single strip of the chasing LED effect for the middle without all of the other lights? I mainly am interested in the portal effect (though the other lights look great as well)....

This is exactly what I did.

I'm still using the factory fluro

3 weeks later
#8072 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:I'll post up pictures of the kit once I get things finalized. I bought some brackets but they were too big so will have to get smaller ones. I'm not going to go into to much depth on things as I really don't have any desires to become a MFG of pinball mods. Just trying to help out some other collectors that don't have the time/skills and/or desires to make their own.
If someone wants to make their own, to save some $$$, I have zero issues talking them through it. It's actually rather simple now that I found a light strip that does the correct animation at 5v, I found extra controllers (unfortunately through China though) and I'm comfortable with soldering.

I'm interested to see how you did the mount and wiring.

Mines pretty ghetto as it is just hanging midair and is powered off and old usb battery thing I had lying around.

2 months later
#8341 11 months ago

I've started having an issue with my auto launcher. At the start of multiballs it can fail to launch a ball past the first one way gate.

I pulled the mech apart and it seems fine. Upon reinstalling it I noticed some small marks that indicate that it was impacting with the playfield.
My guess is that much of the power is going into the pf instead of the ball.

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There is little to no play in the mech when it isn't screwed down tight so I am not sure on what other adjustments I can do to stop the launch arm from touching the pf.

I tried holding it back as far as I could while locking it down tight and it seemed to fix it for about 2 games and then it was back to normal shortly after.

Ideas?

Just had another look. Does the auto launcher coil have a coil stop (like the bumper coils) that it should be hitting or does the coil shaft go the whole way down?

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#8362 10 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Does anyone by chance have any installation photos for the Stern target splints for this (and other) games?
The Quorra target is as we all know susceptible to sideways movement, so I bought some splints from Mezelmods. They kindly pointed me in the direction of some textual instructions (thanks to 85vett) but I'm struggling to visualise it...
Was quietly hoping someone might have photos to correspond to the instructions. Long shot I know.
The instructions are here: https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202025015-Stern-Stand-Up-Target-Splints but the photos only show the finished install

Does this help? I have a few photos on there.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038

These were my own design but I'd guess they should work in a similar way so should attach in the same way.

#8372 10 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Thanks for this link, my friend printed out a couple for me today--looking forward to the install and fix for leaning targets!

Those ones will only fit on Z U or S targets.

There is a thin version that I used for the "E". The file is named "mk8_slim" which I just uploaded. I'd forgotten to upload it.

Comparison

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Added 10 months ago:

Link here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038

#8378 10 months ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Do splints change play at all?
[quoted image]

Id say it doesn't really "change" rather reverts back to when it came out of the factory new. It really just depends on which direction it was leaning and what it was making easier or harder.

ie. a U target leaning right makes the ramp easier but quora and gem (via left upper flipper) harder.

If you have had targets that have been leaning for a long time and you've gotten used to it then using these will make it feel odd for certain shots.

#8382 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Do you have any pictures of this installed on the pin??

yep.

(adding via mobile now)

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#8388 10 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

https://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721
You want the single piece ones for the "Z", "U" and "E" targets. The "S" target requires the 2 piece one.
True story - My friends Tron was the reason I came up with the idea and got with Mezel to have them developed and made. At a min I think every owner should have one on the "U" target as it keeps that one straight. That one leaning really impacts the game play of this game.
I really wish they were still a couple bucks a piece but I sold my rights to them a couple years ago of which price increased

You can print them yourself for about 5 cents worth of filament using the Thingiverse link provided earlier.

Not the same design but should work the same if not better. On mine you just put the entire target through the gap and then slide it in to lock it down. No desoldering required like those wrap around ones either.

#8393 10 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Point of clarification. Desoldering is not required. Curious how well your style is holding up. That was my first Avenue but they were breaking when built thin enough to work on games like x-men.

I do have an xmen but I havn't put any in yet.

The slim version may fit.

Quoted from Billy16:

The full-size Thingy isn't going anywhere. My buddy was surprised at how much plastic went into it, he figured it could have been made with a lot less.

correct. You can adjust your infill to reduce how much plastic is in it however this reduces how rigid ends up being. 10% infill vs 50% infill is only 14% more plastic overall or around 1 cent difference in total cost.

Edit: just checked my xmen. One of my magneto targets was leaning.

Checked the target and Lo and behold it had one of the broken splits!

Looks like both of my versions would fit.

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Replaced with regular one.

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Originals. Looks like the previous owner(s) tightened these down too much.

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1 week later
#8418 10 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

It might be that it's synced during certain modes? I dunno. My video was taken just as I started a game, before launching a ball.

Mine isn’t even remotely synced. I never thought it was supposed to be.

I’ve just watched it’s behaviour and the mech always lags behind the lights. When it is a full cycle out the mech seems to wait for the light to catch up.

#8421 10 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Any chance someone stateside could make a few sets of these for me...
I need them for TronLE, Star Trek Prem, and Ghostbusters prem. Pm me if interested, thx!

Slightly different design but Mezel sells them commercially - https://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721

2 weeks later
#8500 9 months ago

Added some slingspots to my tron and took out the spot lights just to see what it would be like.

Really opens up the right side

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1 month later
#8585 8 months ago

Has anyone totally solved the noisy disk motor issue?

Googled it and looked at everything that showed up.

I’d spent the past few nights working on all the things that annoyed me on my tron.

Stern buzzing flippers : fixed finally!
Autolauncher hitting playfield : fixed
Noisy disk motor : still not fixed

I pulled the disk mech apart and tested the motor in its own. Removed plastic disk but couldn’t remove the grub screw holding the adapter plate on. Added a tiny amount of 3in1 machine oil. Tested. Repeat several times. It got a little quieter but still very noisy. Doesn’t seem to be a balance thing as there isn’t much vibration.

So I’m thinking do I bite the bullet and get a replacement motor.

Googled the part id and it’s the same as the shaker motor.

I’ve got a half dozen machines with shakers.

So my idea is to see if I can switch a shaker motor for the disk motor. I’ll test it for balance and noise before doing the full swap.

Is there any difference between the shaker motor and the disk one? (except for the connectors etc that is desolder off the original disk motor)

#8592 8 months ago
Quoted from Bramvk:

What didi you do to fix Stern buzzing flippers and Autolauncher hitting playfield?

Autolancher : replaced the entire support bracket. The arm was moving too far and the plunger wasn’t hitting th stop soon enough. As the coil stop is built into bracket I didn’t have a choice. Either replace the stop or the plunger. Local supplies of flipper rebuild parts are dry atm so I got the bracket that was available.

Buzzing flippers.
Removed the stops and the plunger.
Sanded and polished those till they were as flat and shiny as possible. You’ll be able to see the indentations/wear marks on both pieces. You need to remove both so they are flat. I used a steel ruler to check. Also put the two pieces together and see if they are flush. Reinstalled and held the coil stops as tight as I could while reinstalling them.

The main difficulty is getting the plunger piece flat. I don’t have a fool proof method but I just held it as close as I could to the sand paper otherwise you tilt it constantly. The coil stop is much easier as it so large.

#8595 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I bought a HUO Tron yesterday. The spinner seems to be pretty loud. I’ve read up that this is a pretty common issue. Any idea how to fix this?

As in the wire weight spinner mech? I’d just try polishing the wire up so there is less physical resitance/rough surface to cause a noise.

#8597 8 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i'm guessing he means the recognizer disc.

Ahh yeah my bad. Haven’t seen a definiative fix apart from a little light machine oil at both ends of the motor. Limited success with that. Mines a little quieter but still has a rattle to it.

#8604 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Has anyone else listened to episode 73 of the head2head pinball podcast with the interview of Lyman Sheats? The entire interview is pure gold... at a minimum, I would urge you to go to the 1hr 24min mark and listen to Lyman stumble over his words when talking about Tron code. It seems almost to me that he starts to talk about what they are already doing, but catches himself and talks about what he would like to do if he had the chance. If this is true, I have no idea if this is for a VE, or just another code update of a game that’s been out for a while (like they did recently with Metallica... a game that was already very mature).
Any thoughts on this, falconpunch??

They won't ever say anything prior to being able to purchase something new.

If you consider it from a business point of view you have one of your most important staff working on something that doesn't generate money nor help your larger customer base. Remember tron != metallica in terms of sales.

Remember what zach said about metallica. It was on the line for 8 YEARS. That is insane. That means that one single game is quite probably their most sold game. So a "maintenance" release on a game like that could be justified. A Tron update, unless they are planning an ve edition, wouldn't make sense resource wise.

Now, if a VE was planned they'd never say until its on the line 2 weeks away from a purchase. They never kill sales of other machines.. That's how stern have always done it so I cant see them changing the formula anytime soon.

#8607 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

No argument on anything you said... but humans will be humans and a slip of the tongue still happens from the best of us. I’m not saying that Lyman DID slip up... in fact, a pure transcript of his actual words probably reveal nothing. But if you listen carefully, his stumble at first could sort of be interpreted that way if you are the speculative type. Oh well, that’s one part of what these forums are all about right? Not trying to create a fuss... just making an observation. Heck, I’ve been wrong more times than not, so... “move along, nothing to see here” might be the best way to interpret my post.

oh absolutely! I thought exactly the same way as you ... 'oh that stumble .. infers that he's been working on something, want's to tell but knows he shouldn't.'

We all want to hope that new things come to old games. How far back (if anywhere) stern will allow him to go vs working on new game titles who knows.

The thing is he is so passionate about what he does he does want to talk about it. In this hobby you can't even hint at something like that because it will be inferred that something is coming.

#8614 8 months ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

<blockquote cite="#4744097"
Remember what zach said about metallica. It was on the line for 8 YEARS. That is insane.
Metallica was on the line for 5years. I bought my LE NIB in 2013

Sorry, yeah sounded too long. That was just a quote from memory of what zach said in the interview, didn't bother to see when it even came out. I was sure he said 8 years.

1 week later
#8668 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Where can we get these splints? Or does anyone have a file to 3D print them?

My “print them yourself” versions are available on thingiverse here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038

They should cost around $0.05 each and about 30-45 mins to print.

#8670 7 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

I can’t seem to see a price, although the page isn’t loading up fully here at work so that might be my issue.
Also do you have a list or way to tell what splits would fit a list of games? I definitely want these for my Ironman drone and whiplash targets, as well as TRON and others.

Um, free (like pretty much everything on thingiverse). I have them on all my tron targets. Ironman I only have them on whiplash. Xmen in magneto standups. I listed on the page the games and targets I’d tested on.

#8676 7 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Free? I hadn’t heard of thingiverse until your post, so I learnt something new there. So stupid question number 2 - I assume the file can be downloaded and these printed locally? Or do you send them out?
Reason I ask is yours look better than the ones certain venders are trying to sell for $5+ yet are twice as thin!

You print them yourself.

Mine was a fairly different design. One of the machines I bought actually had the retail ones in it already but they were all split (I didn’t find them until I went to put my own ones in!)
I wanted something more robust and quick to install so I designed them myself. There are two designs. The first one i made was pretty much unbreakable the other is slimmer for tight targets (still very strong).

If you don’t have a printer your options are to contract print them out locally or buy those other designs from a mod seller.

Price isn’t that bad as you are paying for their time and some profit margin (they are businesses after all).

I’m on the other side of the planet so US->Aus shipping is horrendous. I bought some rollover rivet dies the other week and they cost around $50USD in shipping alone. If I could print those I would have!

2 weeks later
#8759 7 months ago
Quoted from athenspin:

Yes, lol, I do mean the small arcade cabinet in the pinball machine. Mine came with one of the cool arcade mods but I’d also like to have the original just to have!

Not sure I understand why though. Have you seen the original? It’s not great.

#8782 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just installed a new, freshly oiled disk motor. Original worked fine, but was starting to make noise. Also finally upgraded from black to translucent disk rubber...the ball movement is scary! TRON LE is a masterpiece.
[quoted image]

How noisy is the new motor when it’s running full speed? I’m considering doing a test and swapping out a shaker motor for it and see if mines any better. Already tried oiling it to only a small reduction in noise.

#8795 6 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

No dice. Still very dark. Same button. Anyone know where to get lighter blue or at least how to make the inserts shine through better. I would settle for that
[quoted image]

Where did you get those blue suzohapp coin inserts from? Mine are yellow and just look a little odd.

#8800 6 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Ok guys new lights are in and all the chrome pieces installed. Thanks everyone for your help. Now just a colored dmd, redo the tubes, maybe a couple external lighting ideas.

Ditch the big sling spot lights and replace with under plastic slingspots. It really opens up the lower pf.

What’s below your recogniser? (Purple/pink in your pic)

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Does anyone know if the ramps fibre optics can be disconnected underneath and remain zip tied to the ramps? I want to replace my ramp flaps but don’t really want to remove the lights if it can be helped.
if I don’t have to.

#8801 6 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Last ones I got were from marcos I think. They should have plenty. Easy to find. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/42-0517-02

Thanks. Marcos shipping is stupidly expensive for us on the other size of the planet :/ Ended up looking up the part # directly via suzohapp. Emailed them and turns out that I drive past their AUS office twice a day! They do a once a month shipment from the US so I can get them for just $3.60usd.

#8806 6 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Never heard of those before. I'm interested lol. Where can I see those? Also that thing under my recognizer was part of the pin bits acrylic set.

timebandit creates them (I’m not affiliated just think they’re cool). They are normally
available via redshiftled.com.au (currently closed from the holidays)

#8809 6 months ago

After two months of stuffing around I finally fixed the issue I was having with balls not exiting the shooter lane at speed. It was getting so bad I’d have to manually launch balls during multi ball.

I removed the entire mech and all shooter lane parts and swapped them onto my xmen.

Xmen still launched perfectly. :/ weird.

I then did some high speed recording on my phone and compared the ball launch in tron to xmen. I could see the ball slightly wiggle as it started up the lane. When I looked closer I could see a small dent in the lane cliffy. I had mistakenly thought this dent was caused by the ball being put into the lane. But the video showed otherwise.

In the last few frames you can see it move to the side.

It was just enough of a deflection to the left the all the power went into sending the ball sideways enough to rattle it in the lane.

What a difference a fully working machine makes.

Second game after fixing this I finally got to portal, end of the line multi ball and finally got rid of the previous owners grand champion after 16 months!

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So time to sell ..... not

3 weeks later
#8815 5 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Got it. Had to Dremel the screw but not satisfied with the brightness of these coin rejects. Any ways to fix that?
[quoted image]

I just installed my new blue ones (didn’t realise there was another yellow part next to it!) and found the same issue.

The blue, especially the middle is super dark.

I fixed it with extra matrix leds I had spare

Left side extras vs right side default
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both extras
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extra bonus. Pressing makes them light up more.

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leds from the back. Just wrapped them around the button, not stuck to anything and they sit in there fine.

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leds that I used. I had a box of comet matrix stuff I had totally forgotten about!

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#8817 5 months ago
Quoted from Timerider:

Yeah, the blue Happ's area really dark. I like your solution... will have to try that.
And yes, I never found a color matching coin-sizing plastic. I ended up removing the yellow's and spaying them completely black and re-installing.

I don’t mind the contrast as it matches my machines half yellow half blue setup.

1 week later
#8822 5 months ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

PinballMix remixes can't be distributed (they're only personally licensed to the person who orders it).

so does that mean they're licensing the music that is included?

#8824 5 months ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

You send them the music you want included and sign a waiver saying you own it.

well, i don't want to be that guy but ... that's a contradiction isn't it?

"You send them the music you want included and sign a waiver saying you own it."
and
"PinballMix remixes can't be distributed (they're only personally licensed to the person who orders it)."

So if I did own it then I could choose what I wanted to do with it. In this scenario i'm the IP holder remember and i've contracted someone to make a mix of my work. Its all a moot point as we all know the actual IP owners wouldn't allow it in the first place (unless your John Regan in which case I apologise).

So that would make these more fan/bootleg remixes as long as money isn't changing hands.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remix#Copyright_implications

Perhaps it could be passed off as samples? maybe too long though.

http://www.musicrights.com.au/fact-sheets/samplingmusic/

I'm all for fan's replacing music in their pins but what that guy is offering is legally dubious.

#8834 5 months ago
Quoted from djb_rh:

What's happening here is you are buying music (on your own, not related to your pinball machine). Once you buy it, you have "fair use" control over it. One of those uses would be to have your pinball machine play it for you. What you are doing is paying pinballremix to put it in the proper format for the machine to play it for you. It's like paying someone to rip your CD into an MP3 so you can play it on your MP3 player. They didn't sell you music, they just reformatted it.
Technically, they *can* sell what they did for you to someone else, the someone else just needs to prove THEY also own the rights to that same music.
--Donnie

Excellent plausible explanation! Thanks

1 week later
#8851 4 months ago

I finally tried something to resolve my loud spinner motor issue.

I’d seen the very old posts about the same issue and people replacing them etc.

In my part of the world those motors have to be ordered in and aren’t cheap so I decided to try something else out.

I swapped in shaker motor from another machine. Took a couple of hours to take them out, swap/resolder and test.

Wow the difference was night and day!

Shaker is no different as they never got the high sustained speed that the spinner did so it’s not like I’ve just moved the problem to another machine

A cheap zero cost fix if you have other newer sterns with shakers in them

It will remain to be seen how long before it becomes like the old one!

#8853 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I could be (and probably am) wrong, but I'd be surprised if a shaker motor has the same bearings in it as a motor designed to run at a constant (and high) RPM. Then again, I could be thinking of "quality" rather than "let's just build them all as cheaply as possible"...

Bearing quality doesn’t seem the best.

When I looked up the partid’s they were identical. Specs on the outside are the same also.

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In some of the other threads people talked about taking the motors somewhere to be serviced/repaired. I wonder if someone local could replace the bearings in the old one with some high quality ones.

#8856 4 months ago
Quoted from vbittnv:

Once I had a squeaky shaker motor. What I did is just switched the red and blue wires with each other reversing the rotation direction. It quieted it up. Just un solder the wires on the motor, switch them and resolder. . Actually did it on two different shakers. It's simple and free to see of it helps your noise.

Nice tip!

You can also check this (for the disk motor) without desoldering to see if it would be worthwhile and save your time. Just use the disk test menu and change the spin direction.

The problem I have with changing the rotation is that it can throw the ball a different direction. But for a shaker motor it doesn’t matter

So it’s been a couple of days since I changed the motors over and it’s even more quiet now than when I first did it.
So glad I switched it.

#8869 4 months ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

I just installed the clear disc, and it's fantastic. Makes a BIG difference. I won't be installing the resistor as I don't want to slow it down and also am so far not worried about causing any damage. Obviously I can't speak for your machine, but mine seems fine as it is - just added more speed and unpredictable ball directions. Ball spin in particular is fantastic. Its always possible that your motor is running better than mine though - or some other variation. At the end of the day you could get cracked plastic from any airball. Understand your concern though.

Agreed! The ball spin you can get is insane! I’ve had the ball torque it’s way up the right (yes right!) ramp a few times.

Haven’t had it break anything and I’ve had the clear disc for the past 18 months. I only have the arcade mod and not the Flynn sign.

Speaking of which has anyone attempted a more movie realistic version of the Flynn sign? The existing mod as good as it is really doesn’t represent what it looks like in the film.

#8877 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Could the insane spin not damage the playfield surface too? Any imperfection in the ball could dig in, couldn't it? Or am I overthinking it?

If there is an imperfection in the ball like that regular play would be damaging the playfield.

Start/end of daylight savings? check your smoke alarm, check your batteries, check your balls

#8878 4 months ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

I was working on recreating a new design of the flynn sign - I curved my version to fit better with the overall playfield. But I was thinking about how to do a more 'real' version with arches and brick. I still think it's do-able but it would stand out from the rest of the pin design.

That would be great. I've been thinking about it for ages but my modelling skills aren't up to scratch.

Design wise I would would have thought an inside the grid style flynn would be more suited. The existing orange/red one is from outside. This is in contrast with the playfield which is "inside".

So perhaps something styled along these lines but the sign can light up "white". Also notice how the sign is changed. Its flat white instead of neon tubes.

Tron-Legacy-WallPaper-tron-legacy-24853362-1919-826 (resized).png

3 weeks later
#8920 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I've had it for months but too scared to use it.

I'm more scared that my one is wearing out, I'll then have a slow do nothing spinning disk until i get one shipped from the other side of the planet. :\

1 week later
#8997 3 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

There is nothing wrong with the quality of the motor.
A few drops of this oil will totally eliminate the noise. I own 2 TRON's and it worked beautifully on both.
amazon.com link »
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb169.pdf

I found that was useless. You’d get a small window of it being a little better then just reverts to original volume.

I ended up switching the motor with a lesser utilised shaker. It’s much less but not perfectly quiet as I would have hoped.

I also got a couple of comparable Johnson motors I still need to give a try.

Based of what I’d noticed with my original motors my guess is that the bearings in the stock ones are not really rated for the constant speed this motor is used at in Tron.

Normally end users oiling bearing is the last thing you should be doing. Rather you should be replacing them with more suitable versions (high speed, sealed against carbon etc).

#9013 3 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

My experience as well. Typical, industrial motors will have an oil port which wicks the shaft. Tron motors will only dissipate the oil, as it's more of a bearing tolerance issue.
I actually decreased my noise significantly by replacing the clear plastic disc assembly, and being very careful in applying the new rubber adhesive. That thing has to spin as true/balanced as possible. Really made a difference, and highly recommend. Mine's been very quiet for a long time now. If that disc is not balanced...any motor is going to whine....

perhaps that could be my issue. Not sure how I could balance the clear plastic though.

it's not like a car wheel where I can attach small lead weights

hmm, if it was metal I could slowly add solder to one side.

#9036 3 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

No doubt if I were looking today, it would likely be tough to find one! Some titles seem to come/go in waves. Sometimes I think the TRON VE chatter influences sellers to let their baby go...who knows.

In my part of the world (Australia) I've never seen more than a couple publicly listed in the past 2-3 years. I only got mine off a pinball friend who knew of another guy that was possibly considering selling one. Had to travel 2,000 km's (1200 miles) to get it too. I've heard multiple people tell me that there is only ~8 (yes eight) in the country which make it less of a reason for me to sell as it would be so hard to get one back again.

1 month later
#9067 58 days ago
Quoted from brett:

Great job on the Flynn sign Lior. It looks fantastic![quoted image]

Is that this one?

C4493447-55BA-4E97-91CD-FE3D8011CE20 (resized).jpeg

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:874145

4 weeks later
#9121 30 days ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Only 4 left. Seems there are still a few naked Tron Pros out there in the wild.

I’m interested in a kit but .... check your email

2 weeks later
#9204 10 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Can anyone make me up the resistors that will reduce the power of the motor? A potentiometer setup would be awesome if that's even possible. It's beyond my skills electrically and I don't want to risk running the clear disc without it, at least initially.
Happy to pay obviously.

How cow, I really think you are blowing out of proportion what the clear disc actually does. Its not like your adding dejp raptor pit kick backs all over the playfield. Its fun and add's torque to the ball but its not breaking anything anytime soon.

It is so unlikely to break something id put a bet on it and i'm someone that loves keeping my machines pristine.

You are MORE likely to break something doing a flipper rebuild and having strong flippers.
If you are that scared I'd say disable the spinner in its entirety or just wait until you play it in someone else's machine.

#9210 9 days ago

I’d been playing around with making my own Flynn sign.

Mixed results :/ I would still like a “inside the grid” version that lights up white.

9FA77E18-CAA0-4EAA-A751-867C30FDA061 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#9249 3 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I'm a fan of the Blue armor myself.......[quoted image]

Those extra translite holders look great!

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