(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.


By centerflank

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,271 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by davidlldennis
  • Topic is favorited by 142 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 396 votes
    71%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
    18%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes
    11%

(557 votes)

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#2463 5 years ago

As or 175 minutes ago, I'm now a member. Do I really have to read all 50 pages of this thread before I'm up to date? Oy...

#2487 5 years ago
Quoted from MapleSyrup:

I had a funny stuck ball issue. Ball flew off ramp entrance up to the top of the spinning disc, and then settled in the oval cutout in the plastic that the wires feed through. No amount of nudging was going to free this ball. Glass off time.

I had the same thing happen to me 2 nights ago, but on the oval plastic cutout on the right side of the recognizer.

The hole is accommodating 2 pairs of cables: 1 for the flasher, 1 for the illuminated light cycle. I used a couple of small cable ties (in a nice Tron blue color, of course) to try to tighten up the wire where it passes through the center of the hole--hopefully, it will discourage the ball from landing in there again...hopefully...

-J

1 month later
#2674 5 years ago

I'm caught up on my reading. Took a lot of nights of reading this thread on my tablet to put me to sleep each night, dreaming of Tron. Amongst all the noise, there was a good amount of signal that I picked up. I made a long wish list of mods & such, & I've already implemented many. Most of them are the same old same old, so I won't bore you with pictures of my Pro.

Non-standard items:
1 - I put in a ColorDMD & set it to a nice pale blue (wish the blue could go a little darker/richer), set it to high definition upscaling mode, & I should keep a rag next to the machine to wipe up my drool when admiring the image. Super duper easy install. My machine had a blue Stern DMD in it--perhaps I'll put that in my Avengers LE Blue...then I'll have 2 really blue Sterns lined up...how cute. (I'm generally not blown away by the Color DMD art, but I love the upscaling, & the newly released Indiana Jones coloring job is absolutely stunning!!!)

2 - I decased & installed a Nifty 555 Super Bright Flex Red (like this: http://niftyled.com/555-Super-Bright-Flex-Red-p136.html) into the recognizer & wired it in parallel w/ the recognizer insert in the middle of the PF. It does sometimes illuminate in unique patterns or when other inserts on the same column light, but oh well--I rather enjoy its unpredictability.

3 - Not satisfied with the "left" light cycle (Hallmark ornament mod) being too white as presented to me when I bought it, I wanted to blue it up a bit to complement the orange light cycle. I had some of this transparent blue paint left over from a previous project (where I need an optical quality transparent effect, but this spray produced a hazy/cloudy effect on that other project): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=TESR2457 .

I first tried brushing the paint on, but that turned out crummy, so I got a fresh light cycle & did a proper job of spraying it with about 6 coats of transparent blue & then several clears: amazon.com link »

Some rewiring, putting them both in parallel w/ the PF light cycle insert (instead of always-on w/ a DK 8-way, as it was set up when I bought it), & the blue one looks much bluer than before.

Pics don't capture it very well, but it's definitely snazzier.

So, for the cost of shipping, I'm happy to mail out the poorly painted light cycle, if somebody has a good use for it...like dressing up their drab Mustang pinball or something...

Thanks,
-Jason

1-White Light Cycle, As Received.JPG 2-Bad Paint vs Good Paint.jpg 3-Good Paint Lit Up.jpg 4-Bad Paint vs Good Paint, Lit Up.jpg 5-Bad Paint vs Good Paint, Lit Up.jpg 6-Good Paint, Installed.jpg 7-Good Paint, Installed.jpg
1 week later
#2709 4 years ago

Dilemma: in my efforts to leave almost no parts of my Tron untouched w/ customized goodness, I am so very interested in putting interesting art on the recognizer & ZUSE targets. The problem is, I'm not adequately turned on by any of the offerings that I've seen:

1: top-notchtargetshields on eBay: ebay.com link The colors & swirls & lightning don't really match the rest of the PF art.
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2: pinballdecalscom: http://www.pinballdecals.com/TRONTargetDecalsPage.html. The ZUSE targets seem to fit the theme rather well, but the recognizer targets don't quite work for me.
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3: thegloversprimusca: ebay.com link These recognizer targets are pretty decent...a little simple, but simpler is probably better for target art. Perhaps a different color scheme would excite me more.
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Any other options out there that I've missed?

Thanks,
-Jason

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#2732 4 years ago

I bought some of the OU BAO clips: ebay.com link

They arrived.

The fiber optic wires in Eli's kit from pinbits.com are about .200" (5mm) in outer diameter.

The 2 "C" features on each clip are about .270" (7mm) in inner diameter.

There's a fair amount of rattle.

But, each clip has 2 C features, & the openings face in opposite directions.

Only MPC knows when I'll find time to install my kit, but perhaps the prescribed attachment locations & fiber optic bends will make the wires nest securely in each clip.

In the eBay picture, you see a big yellow rectangle behind the clips--that's a grid of double-sided tape pieces. The clips themselves don't have adhesive backing. You have to stick both sides of the tape.

This might turn out to be a handy way of installing the kit without needing to remove the ramps to drill holes...? (Says the guy who hasn't yet looked into the installation process.)

But hey, for less than $10 shipped to the USA, why not just buy a set & see what you can do with the clips, eh?

-Jason

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#2733 4 years ago

More Tron fun. Silver balls, blue nuts!

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2340

Removed all Nylon Insert nuts (or, as I like to say "Nyloc Nut," because I'm hip).

Blue nylon acorn nuts abound.

-Jason

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#2736 4 years ago
Quoted from ENDOFLINE:

nice blue nuts man....
I prefer mine in clear though
on a serious note, wonder how they would look in clear??

I'm guessing not so hot. Lots of threaded parts have a bit of gunk in the threads from manufacturing--it's not trivial to remove the gunk--I'd bet the male threaded parts have a bit of gunk that would be a bit unsightly.

Here's where you can call me a hypocrite: I've got a full set of clear rubbers to install (including shooter tip, flipper bands, & identity disc). Need to set aside a chunk of time to swap them all at once. I figure that, if I have some black & some clear on there at the same time, some black gunk might transfer to the clears & look gunky.

Clear thingies came from http://www.pinballcenter.eu/english/pinball-parts/

Even though they're in Germany & I'm in California, their prices were excellent, their shipping was cheap (about $12.67 US), & their shipping was fast. I placed good-sized orders from Pinball Center & Pinball Life on the same day, & the PC order arrived 1 day after the PL order(!)

Many more cosmetic tweak posts with Tron pron pics forthcoming! =D

-J

#2738 4 years ago

I guess Gem & Quorra like my blue nuts. They let me into Portal for the first time tonight. But, it was short-lived. I did terribly.

It was frustrating. You know, like when you get all excited about something & there's a big build-up, but then nothing exciting ends up happening & you end up all frustrated & antsy? I think there's some figure of speech that describes that feeling...

-Jason

PS--was one Gem away from a second SOS. Got my high: 201M.

1 week later
#2774 4 years ago

Lots of cosmetic work this week. I'll group them up into a couple of different posts.

#1: Put in the clear identity disc rubber pads from Pinball Center: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/disc-rubber-set-transparent-tron-legacy-p-6216.html?language=english

Holy Tronaroni, it was about 1 hour to remove the stock black rubbers & clean up the plastic disc--blah.

Why didn't anybody tell me that this would make the ball go ape? OK, like 15 of you installed this & said it's bonkers, but why didn't anybody say that you don't need to install a shaker motor if you have this installed because you can feel through your hands the ball rattling in identity disc compartment? Why didn't anybody say that it sounds like a hive of angry stainless steel hornets in a paint can being mixed up at the Home Depot paint counter? Why didn't anybody say that the ball will shoot out & smack the glass...the glass down by the flippers? Why didn't anybody say that, if you get to Portal for the first time ever, the disc might fling the ball through the rubbers in the identity disc region?

I waxed the disc after this happened. It toned down a little. A little. Not much.

It's pretty awesome, assuming that it doesn't destroy my machine from the inside out.

-Jason

PS--oh, in retrospect, I think that I might have actually used 1 band here that was 1 size too big, as I was short 1 band...that's probably the culprit...and the bonkers disc rubber, too..

[Edit: added 2 pics of spinny identity disc assembly w/ worn black rubber, before elbow grease black rubber removal]

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#2775 4 years ago

#2 Astute readers may have noticed my milky white rubbers. I got a set from Pinball Center, including flipper bands: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/120-premium-rubber-set-transparent-p-6445.html?language=english

I also cleaned & waxed the playfield.

It's a whole new game...had about 3 crummy crummy games & then got to Portal for the first time. I'm on an emotional roller coaster.

Also installed & love the blue metallic flipper bats: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/flipper-with-williams-logo-blue-metallic-p-2387.html?language=english

Ignore the "W".

Ordered, examined, but decided against using the chromes from Pinball Life: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2229

Hmm, the flippers don't look very blue in these artsy photos of mine.

[Edit: added well-lit pic of new vs. old flipper/rubber scheme]

-Jason

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#2776 4 years ago

#3: I finally got around to looking at this wiring this weekend. I wired my recognizer & light cycles "wrong" before, by tying them in to the 2 lamp matrix wires.

After looking more closely, I saw that the Stern factory insert socket has 3 tabs on its underside, an internal diode, & 2 of those 3 tabs are shorted to the 2 contacts on the factory insert bulb.

So, I undid the 2 wires & rewired them as shown in my PDF. Now, the bonus mod LEDs are perfectly synced w/ the insert LEDs. Thanks, Frax!

-Jason

Quoted from Frax:

Because you didn't wire it "right", you're basically creating an open path around the diode. Probably other inserts lighting when they're not supposed to be as well on that part of the matrix. If it doesn't bother you, no need to fix, and if it does at some point, it's a really easy fix. Just re-attach the wire that's in front of the diode to the other lead of the diode.
So instead of MODWIRE----<LAMP>----<DIODE||>---MODWIRE
go MODWIRE----<LAMP>----MODWIRE---<DIODE||>>
here's an old graphic I made when I hooked into lamp matrix on my Space Shuttle for my custom topper, that does a pretty good job of explaining.

lamps.png 17 KB

The Correct Way To Add A Bonus LED, Rev 3.pdf
#2782 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I need to save this pic! Did you just led your own recognizer?

I have a Pro. I pulled the recognizer. Into the back of its "head," I crammed the business end of a NiftyLED 555 Super Bright Flex Red: http://niftyled.com/555-Super-Bright-Flex-Red-p136.html

I removed the plastic housing (that usually snaps into a socket), soldered the internal leads to the new wires I added to the game, used a pair of 9V battery clips along the wires to allow for later recognizer removal if needed, & used a bit of hot glue & black Sharpie to hold stuff in place & cover up my handiwork. The back side of the recognizer is a little ugly, but it doesn't show unless you pull the glass & inspect it from behind.

-Jason

#2783 4 years ago

On the stock yellow matrix wire going to the stock insert bulb socket, I used nice wire strippers to peel back a little of the wire insulation a few inches away from where the wire met the socket.

I then wrapped my new bonus mod wire around the exposed conductor, soldered, & insulated. I think I got clever on this one & used heat shrink tubing, but electrical tape works well, provided it's not the cheap stuff that comes undone over time.

For the 2nd mod light wire that does *not* tie in to an existing factory lamp matrix wire, I stripped some insulation off the mod wire, tucked it in the socket cavity where the diode leg was, & soldered it in--it was quite easy to solder. See pic.

I'd be worried about tucking wires into a lamp socket & then cramming the bulb in for fear of shorting or damaging the socket or having the bulb pop out.

I'd be worried about jamming wires into the "slice-the-insulation" receptacles, as you need to be sure you're using the right gauge or you'll cut the conductors or you'll not slice the insulation.

I know me well enough to know that these are risky moves for me.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Here are 2 pictures of the FLYNN ARCADE insert bulb, 1 is the socket itself, the other is a picture that another Pinsider did to add a light to the scoop.
Is there any easier way to add the wire more securely/soldered rather than just pushing the wires in?

ModWireSolder.JPG
#2784 4 years ago

E-mailed you 10/16 & 10/24. Never heard back. Figured you were just too cool to respond! ;P

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from Frax:

Sweet, glad you figured it out. i never saw anything in my email so wasn't sure if you had gotten it or my spam filter flagged whatever you sent. Good diagram

#2788 4 years ago

Dr.-

IMG_20141105_224142.jpg

This is my red square recognizer PF insert. Note the gray wire soldered in to the top (as shown) of the 3 socket leads. It is connected to the non-striped end of the diode & to 1 of the 2 lamp leads, but it does not directly connect to either of the lamp matrix wires. The other gray wire going to the recognizer is in the out-of-focus foreground--the gray mod wire is spliced in to the existing yellow/purple factory lamp matrix wire.

IMG_20141105_230133.jpg

I added some more lights last night (see next post). These are also LEDs that accept 6.3VAC. I got a little neater & cleverer with these wires. I simply soldered the 2 mod's white wires to 2 of the 3 leads on the socket (the 2 leads that short to the 2 factory insert lamp leads). No need to strip wire & use electrical tape & such. Soldering to these tabs is actually rather easy, it turns out.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Jason, could you by chance send an up close picture just for a visual?

#2789 4 years ago

So, what was I doing adding extra LEDs last night? Mimicking the 4 T-R-O-N inserts with behind-the-stationary-target-LEDs from Pinball Center: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/noflix-target-light-blue-p-2967.html?language=english

I know, I know, they're intended for stationary targets that are transparent, so that the light can shine through them. I know, I know, they're intended to stick to target "spines" that aren't L-shaped like those in my Tron & I had to grind down part of the target spine to be able to attach these.

But, from my point of view when playing, I can actually kinda sorta see them. :]

Thanks,
-Jason

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#2790 4 years ago

Wrapped up the lit flipper buttons last night. Got transparent blue ones from Pinball Life.

Wired in 2 of Nifty LEDs 555 super bright flex blue & tucked them next to the buttons. I do get some light bleeding upward between the PF & the cabinet, but not enough to perturb me. I could easily fabricate a little awning shield above the LEDs to block that light if it ends up bugging me.

I simply wired these in parallel w/ the 2 leads on the start button--I removed the quick disconnects, soldered 2 pairs of wires to the male tabs on the start button lamp socket, & then re-installed the quick disconnects.

Thanks,
-Jason

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2 weeks later
#2808 4 years ago

Thanks, Aurich. I have since set it to a cool orange, the other color most represented in my pin. Looks swell!

1 month later
#2882 4 years ago

Gone. Donated to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2015-march-of-dimes-arcadepinball-prize-raffle

A little bit of recent winter cleaning revealed the following Trontastic items that I don't need.

Offering them up here first, to you, the faithful, before posting them for sale elsewhere. Asking prices below; shipping from USA 91101 not included.

1 - Black plastic apron + under-card mounting hardware, with triangle stickers still stuck. From my Tron Pro. Looks great. I'd say "like new," but there's probably a scratch hiding in there somewhere. $40.

SOLD 2 - Tron Legacy identity disc toy. Works fine. Clean. Needs new batteries (tested good w/ my benchtop power supply--didn't have spare batteries in this size). Stand intact but collapses if you put the disc on--it took me 2 minutes to gingerly balance the disc on it for a moment for a photo. Don't be fooled. Stand was flimsy from the start--making your own, or glue it or something. $10.

SOLD 3 - Space Paranoids poster. 18" W x 24" H. From thisoldgame.com. Bought through KLOV almost 5 years ago. Added little tabs of Scotch tape at the corners through which I stuck pins, so I didn't punch holes in the poster itself. Has a bit of crinkling & whitening around the perimeter, but it shows well. $25.

Tons more pics: https://www.dropbox.com/home/4Sale/Tron

Discount for multiple purchases! :]

Thanks,
-Jason

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2 weeks later
#2908 4 years ago
Quoted from Mar:

Anyone have any thoughts on what the best flipper colours would be? I'm about to buy some super bands (orange on left and blue on right) and started thinking about the flippers themselves. I don't think orange would go well with the standard yellow flipper, and started thinking of other colours for them.
Black maybe?

Nope. Metallic blue bats w/ clear rubbers = best Tron flippahs evah!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/56#post-2016502

-Jason

#2913 4 years ago

Dressed up my pops with http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3336

Nice product, especially with the teeny pot to adjust the brightness.

I preferred a smooth solid ring of light instead of a bunch of little squares, to match the Tron theme & the identity disc.

So, I gently cracked the bonds to remove the light rings from the bumper caps & pursued lots of different schemes for trying to diffuse the light by putting something between the SMD LEDs & the bumper cap: paper, felt, frosted plastic sheet, etc. etc. None worked really well, because packaging requires putting these items right against the lights.

The best solution I found was actually using Pinball Center's spinning identity disc aftermarket rubbers! They're pretty much a perfect fit. Coincidence?

http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/disc-rubber-set-blue-tron-legacy-p-6834.html?language=english
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/disc-rubber-set-transparent-tron-legacy-p-6216.html?language=english

It's been a little while since I did this mod. I tried various combinations of rubber sheets, but I think that I ended up using 1 layer of the blue rubbers. (I recall that 2 layers diffused the light better but brought the LED PCB down too close to the pop bumper mechanism.)

I also didn't see a reasonable method for centering the center light just right--they're a bit off-center. Oh well.

-Jason

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#2916 4 years ago

Fancified trough. Ran GI wiring to 2 new 555 sockets that I screwed to the metal barrier attached to the playfield (not the removable apron).

Installed 2 high-power blue spotlights to backlight the flippers & their surroundings.

Awesome.

-Jason

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#2917 4 years ago

When it rains Tron mods, it pours Tron mods. Next up: apron-mounted under-lit light cycles!

My machine had the big Hallmark light cycles on it when I got it. So, I had 1 leftover little light cycle. Years ago, at CCAG 2011 (www.ccagshow.com), I got a little die-cast light cycle that I believe had been packaged with a DVD or Blu-Ray.

These needed to be mounted somewhere. Not near the big ones, not in the way of anything, in a logical fashion, tidily, etc. I chose the apron, above the yellow & blue light cycles on the inlane return plastics.

Step 1: Drill holes for screws.

Step 2: Drill holes in the apron to mount them high & wide, out of the way of line-of-sight & ball travel. I weaseled weld studs through the wheels, from the inside out, & then put washers & nuts on the inside of the apron. This made the exposed fasteners nigh invisible.

Step 3: Underlight! I tapped into the GI for power. I wanted to use some flex stalk LEDs so that I could put the light body inside the apron & snake the LEDs out. I chose Pinball Center's NoFlix Plus because they had 2 LEDs per socket, the wires were long, & the LEDs were small.
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/t10-noflix-plus-yellow-superflux-p-395.html?language=english
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/t10-noflix-plus-blue-superflux-p-1439.html?language=english

Unfortunately, the wires weren't long enough--the light didn't show through the cycles, & they couldn't quite reach the wheel holes. So, I desoldered the wires at the LEDs & spliced in more wire length.

Step 4: Routing. I fed the LEDs through the apron, slit a rubber grommet to slide over the wires & to protect them from rubbing the metal apron wall. One in place, I used liberal amounts of hot glue to secure them & to tuck the wires up against the underside of the light cycle for protection from balls.

Step 5: Diffusing. The lights were too bright & shining up in my eyes. I tried several tricks: sanding, PTouch white label, White-Out, spray paint, etc. None of those diffused the light very well. I need something small, plastic, & round. LEGO!

P/N 4073: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4073. I filed off the LEGO logo, left the top a little rough for diffusion, & superglued one to each LED: transparent blue on the blue cycle, & transparent yellow on the other. These look boss. They even create a series of illuminated concentric rings...very identity disc-ish!

More to come...

Thanks,
-Jason

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#2924 4 years ago

Gone. Donated to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2015-march-of-dimes-arcadepinball-prize-raffle

FS: FLYNN LIVES reversed vinyl apron decals.

The last of the apron posts from me.

The final exciting reason that I switched from my Tron Pro's stock black plastic apron to the black metal apron ( http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2956 ) with blue plastic inserts ( http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2957 ) was to add the extra flashers from Hooked ( http://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p8/Tron_Mod_-_LE_Apron_Add-On_Harness.html ).

While they do look nice, they are a bit plain, just light-up blue triangles...

So, I dug up some art, spent a while recreating it in SolidWorks in order to make a DXF for quotes, & sent it out for fabrication. I was worried that the "neon" style font, scaled to fit on the apron insert, wouldn't cut well with its .024" wide lines & .024" gaps. So, I made versions of the art with lines, filled in except for the edges, & block letters.

I made 6 different configurations:
1: "Neon" font of many skinny individual lines. Letters are positive.
2&3: "Neon" font of many skinny individual lines. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.
4: Mostly filled-in letters with "neon" at the edges. Letters are positive.
5&6: Mostly filled-in letters with "neon" at the edges. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.
7: Filled-in block letters. Letters are positive.
8&9: Filled-in block letters. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.

I chose to use 2&3 on mine. It turns out that the thin lines were no problem to manufacture, handle, or install after all, & those are the truest to the original art.

It's tricky to get photos of the brief flashes, so I took a video too:

It's subtle, which is what I was going for. The stickers don't show unless the flashers flash, & that's even rather brief & subliminal.
---

See next post for purchase & inventory info. :]

Thanks,
-Jason

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#2926 4 years ago

Gone. Donated to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2015-march-of-dimes-arcadepinball-prize-raffle

FLYNN LIVES apron decal pricing:

$15 shipped to continental USA for 1 set of your choice.
$17 shipped elsewhere for 1 set of your choice.

PM for price breaks on quantities.

---

Current inventory:

1x 1: "Neon" font of many skinny individual lines. Letters are positive.
0x 2&3: "Neon" font of many skinny individual lines. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.
2x 4: Mostly filled-in letters with "neon" at the edges. Letters are positive.
1x 5&6: Mostly filled-in letters with "neon" at the edges. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.
2x 7: Filled-in block letters. Letters are positive.
2x 8&9: Filled-in block letters. Reverse image: letters are "holes" & the background is art.

All:
stickers-all.jpg

1:
stickers-1.jpg

2&3:
stickers-2&-3.jpg

4:
stickers-4.jpg

5&6:
stickers-5&-6.jpg

7:
stickers-7.jpg

8&9:
stickers-8&-9.jpg

Thanks,
-Jason

#2928 4 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Only $2 more for out of USA orders, that's pretty darn good.

Thanks. Shipping shouldn't cost much for a simple envelope, even shipping abroad. I was just estimating, rather than scientifically measuring & weighing.

Those prices might net me a buck or two at most per set...if you don't count the many hours over work lunches that I spent doing the NRE... :]

-Jason

#2934 4 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Where can the clear rubber be ordered for Tron and what sizes and how many of each are required to swap out the machine original rubber? I've noticed my black rubber is starting to show wear and if needing replacement will likely go clear.
Also, great apron lightcycle mod by Jason... does anyone know if the original die cast lightcycles that came with the game would work for this?

Rubber: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/56#post-2016502

I bought the bucket set: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/120-premium-rubber-set-transparent-p-6445.html?language=english
You can also buy the Tron kit: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/tron-legacy-rubber-set-premium-transparent-p-4538.html?language=english
Tron manual, which details rubbers: http://sternpinball.com/upload/games/tron/tron/431/Tron%20Manual.pdf

Light cycles: "My machine had the big Hallmark light cycles on it when I got it. So, I had 1 leftover little light cycle. Years ago, at CCAG 2011 (www.ccagshow.com), I got a little die-cast light cycle that I believe had been packaged with a DVD or Blu-Ray." So, yup, one of the ones that I used on my apron was the original die cast light cycle from my late-run Tron Pro (which had 1 light cycle & 1 light car).

Thanks,
-Jason

3 weeks later
#2987 4 years ago

I installed this:

Flipper Fidelity "Flipping Fantastic Big 10 Inch" Stern Speaker System

Easy install. Wonderful sound. Awesome bass, most noticeably during the Light Cycle Multiball start.

Wowzers.

1 week later
#3000 4 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Oh and it looks like someone took a Tron and turned it into a virtual pin.

...which is not funny...not funny at all...

1 month later
#3192 4 years ago

I think I like it, but it's difficult to tell what the kit is. Are there any pics of the kit as-ordered? A harness with a few light sockets to plug in line with existing flashers?

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from Darth_Chris:

I developed a new mod for all versions of TRON. It is special made UV interactive lighting effect that make the back board area come alive. I am selling them on my website for $40.00 plus shipping and they are plug in play for the connection, no soldering required. Also come with step-by-step pictured directions for the installation process, which is very easy done.

1 week later
#3197 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Got mine installed last night, and looks sick!!! The UV makes the back third of the playfield " glow" in a cool way ( and varies in intensity as it's tied into the blue flashers on back panel)...REALLY adds a dynamic feel to the mode.....

Thanks for posting & for the video. Can you please explain what's in the kit?

Thanks,
-Jason

#3199 4 years ago

Bump.

I'll keep the FLYNN LIVES decals for sale for about 1 more week ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flynn-lives-reverse-vinyl-decals ) & then donate the remaining inventory to Dean's annual March of Dimes fundraiser: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2015-march-of-dimes-arcadepinball-prize-raffle

Thanks,
-Jason

1 month later
#3561 4 years ago

Or, you could just go back in time to 4 months ago: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/59#post-2172681

...and also illuminate them! =D

-Jason

Quoted from HENSBROOKER:

This isn't for the heart-fainted -> you have to drill your apron + the cycles...
- First I glued the tyres with a drop of epoxy glue to fixate them (stop the turning)
- Than pre-drilled a hole into the tires, so the screw (they were previously attached with) will fit.
(You could also use the small posts which they are attached with originally but I wanted them to ride directly onto the apron).
- Measure out the newly drilled holes on the apron -> use a sharpy.
- Remove the apron.
- Drill the 4 holes and you can fix the lightcycles from the inside out.
It's a very nice addition, like original and does not interfere with gameplay at all!

1 year later
#6083 3 years ago

You know those boompa boompa cars? The ones with the big big subwoofer stereos that are so loud that the car glass & trim & trunk & doors & everything rattle, much to the entertainment/chagrin of neighboring cars at the stoplight?

So, what do you guys do to keep the subwoofer & shaker motor from rattling your Tron glass silly? I did put a little foam tape up at the top of the channels, which seemed to help for a while, but it's quite rattly again.

And I don't want to hear any answers like "turn down the volume & the motor." Unacceptable.

Thanks,
-Jason

#6100 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Second that, 2 layers

Eek! $14.95 + $13.70 for tape! Will look at my current tape collection & the local hardware store first.

Is this a foamy tape?

Thanks,
-Jason

2 weeks later
#6246 3 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

No. It is a bit like Scotch tape (translucent, basically firm), but thicker. Most foam tape is much thicker than this anti-rattle tape.

Thank you for the scoop!

3 months later
#6553 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I bought some of the OU BAO clips: ebay.com link
...
This might turn out to be a handy way of installing the kit without needing to remove the ramps to drill holes...? (Says the guy who hasn't yet looked into the installation process.)
-Jason

Those clips that I bought way back when didn't work--there just weren't enough flat spots on the ramps to stick them. So, drilling & cable tying it was!

...

2 years & 1 month after purchase, I installed my Eli's ramp light kit on my Tron Pro.
*blush*
Hard to find a 6-hour block of (mostly) uninterrupted time...

What a pain in the neck. Not really difficult, but time-consuming, boring, & tedious. I needed to do all the ramp work in 1 day (I did the electronics and wiring a free weeks ago); it would have been challenging to store ramps somewhere, store fasteners, remember what went where, keep it clean and safe, have the game unplayable for a period.

Remind me to never do a big & time-consuming pinball mod again...

Having said that...

WOW!!! THEY LOOK AMAZING! ALMOST FEELS AS IF I HAVE A NEW GAME! THE LIGHTS DON'T JUST LOOK PRETTY; THEY PROVIDE VALUABLE INFORMATION TOO! LIKE BLINKING RED WHEN I'M 1 SHOT AWAY FROM STARTING DISC MULTIBALL. I'll try to pay attention & see if there are other clues given by their colors and patterns.

Looking forward to playing it in the dark, volume high. =D

-Jason

PS--weird that my camera picked up light spots where the cables were bent more tightly (as the instructions warned)--I really can't notice this during gameplay.

IMG_20161024_072932 (resized).jpg
IMG_20161023_220937 (resized).jpg

#6559 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I've about bought the eli ramp mod and was curious about the drilling. I agree, drilling is nice, but on a smooth surface that bit likes to move.

All you need is a pilot hole. A center punch isn't practical here, so just take a scribe (long pointy metal tool), locate your hole, and push firmly with the scribe tip to make a dimple in the soft plastic.
Then your drill won't wander.

Jason

#6580 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Remind me to never do a big & time-consuming pinball mod again...

Oops, I did it again.

Well, these weren't nearly as intensive as the Eli's ramp lights. Maybe 1-1.5 hours of low-stress, straightforward, pause-when-life-interrupts-and-resume-without-difficulty work.

The pictures didn't come out very well. Amateur quickie cell phone shots.

In person, the bats do look better, but not super duper awesome. You don't get the full spectrum of colors. There are some good blues, & the yellows/oranges didn't quite match my game, so I went plain blue, with the brightness about 2/3 up. Definitely cool with clear flipper rubbers!

Customer service from Peter at B&T in Germany was great, instructions great, product quality very high, shipping pretty quick & cheap. I went straight to Peter because PPS didn't have an option for selling a kit with 3 flippers. One PCB can handle 4 flippers (all displaying the same color or mode). Peter sold me a kit with 1 extra bat with extra-long wire for the upper flipper. $147.34 shipped to California.

Thanks,
-Jason

IMG_20161031_224534 (resized).jpg

IMG_20161031_224552 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#6639 2 years ago

Played a good hour or so tonight. It's been a while. I'm generally not one for games with deep rulesets. Tron I can grasp. Almost. This confused me tonight:

I got to Sea of Simulation. All items were lit solid except light cycles were still blinking. I lost the ball. On the next ball, I hit lots of light cycles, lit light cycle multiball, started light cycle multiball, didn't complete light cycle multiball, lost 1 ball, hit the scoop a few times but SOS wouldn't restart, even though all the things in the middle were lit solid or blinking.

What's a guy got ta do to restart SOS around here?

Maybe I should ask my 4-year-old. He has a slight grasp of the rules, too: "Daddy, I lit up a lot of the things in the middle!"

-Jason

IMG_20161210_160020 (resized).jpg

4 months later
#6835 2 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Anyone know what difference this makes??
I had it set to default/medium.

Yo mama so fat, she ride a heavy cycle.

Yo mama got so fat, I didn't even recognizer.

5 months later
#7216 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Quick disc update guys I will be good to go this week and get invoices sent for the weekend I hope. Apolgies for the delays it's 3:15am here in the UK at the moment and we have had a couple of particularly bad nights in the hospital this week, not to mention some a**hole broke into our house last night and 8 others while we where both sat here in the ICU ward, so that took priority today what with police and forensics coming round. Again my apologies and thanks for bearing with me.

Sorry to hear of your travails.
The fact that you're taking time to post here & to apologize speaks volumes about your character.
I hope things take an all-around turn for the better for you!

-Jason

1 week later
#7262 2 years ago

[I was just writing an "I'll take one from J85M if he's got excess inventory that he wants to unload...but then I remembered...]
I went a little overboard on buying Tron mod stuff (haven't we all?) in back in 2014...and every year since then...
I bought 10 sets of clear discs & 6 sets of blue discs from our German friends at Pinball Center. Shipping to the US was only 10 euros per package back in the good old days.
I wasn't sure which color I'd go with, & I was also getting lots of spares to augment the pops' LED rings with diffusers:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/59#post-2172186
I have these left in inventory:
CLEAR
6 unused sets
2 just inner discs unused
1 just outter disc already stuck to the inside of a ziploc baggie-it can probably be peeled out, cleaned gently, re-adhesived, & installed.
BLUE
3 unused sets
After J85M unloads the rest of his inventory, hit me up for a sale. I'm in California. I won't sell until he's gotten buyers for all of his inventory, considering what he's been through.
I figure I probably want to keep 1-2 of the clear sets for spares, as the one that I installed is peeling up a bit at the edges...though it's been peeling up for a long long time now & is still playing nicely (well, not nicely, considering this is an evil mod). All the rest should be up for grabs.
Thanks,
-Jason

Tron Disc Overload (resized).JPG

Added 23 months ago: SOLD:
BLUE-3 unused sets
CLEAR-4 unused sets

UNSOLD:
CLEAR-2 unused sets [I definitely need to keep 1 set as my own spare, & I'm not super motivated to sell my second spare, so I'd need an attractive offer...]
CLEAR-1 set where outer disc is stuck to the inside of a Ziploc baggie (was testing it out as a light diffuser on the underside of a pop bumper cap--didn't work out, so removed--it's seen no ball action, & if you're a wiz at adhesive, you can probably stick it down just fine) [will definitely sell-cheap!]
CLEAR-1 just inner discs unused [will definitely sell--cheap!]

Thanks,
-Jason

2 weeks later
#7343 1 year ago

SOLD:
BLUE-3 unused sets
CLEAR-6 unused sets
UNSOLD:
CLEAR-1 set where outer disc is stuck to the inside of a Ziploc baggie (was testing it out as a light diffuser on the underside of a pop bumper cap--didn't work out, so removed--it's seen no ball action, & if you're a wiz at adhesive, you can probably stick it down just fine) [will definitely sell-cheap!]
CLEAR-1 just inner discs unused [will definitely sell--cheap!]
If you're signing up with J85M for his 2nd batch of ring rubbers shipped from England, I don't want to step on his toes, so we'd appreciate it if you don't cancel any commitment with J85M on account of this offer being more attractive.
Thanks,
-Jason
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/146#post-4002901

Quoted from jasonbar:

[I was just writing an "I'll take one from J85M if he's got excess inventory that he wants to unload...but then I remembered...]
I went a little overboard on buying Tron mod stuff (haven't we all?) in back in 2014...and every year since then...
I bought 10 sets of clear discs & 6 sets of blue discs from our German friends at Pinball Center. Shipping to the US was only 10 euros per package back in the good old days.
I wasn't sure which color I'd go with, & I was also getting lots of spares to augment the pops' LED rings with diffusers:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/59#post-2172186
I have these left in inventory:
CLEAR
6 unused sets
2 just inner discs unused
1 just outer disc already stuck to the inside of a Ziploc baggie-it can probably be peeled out, cleaned gently, re-adhesived, & installed.
BLUE
3 unused sets
After J85M unloads the rest of his inventory, hit me up for a sale. I'm in California. I won't sell until he's gotten buyers for all of his inventory, considering what he's been through.
I figure I probably want to keep 1-2 of the clear sets for spares, as the one that I installed is peeling up a bit at the edges...though it's been peeling up for a long long time now & is still playing nicely (well, not nicely, considering this is an evil mod). All the rest should be up for grabs.
Thanks,
-Jason

Added 22 months ago: Update 2017-11-21:
All of my spare clear disc rubbers are sold, EXCEPT for 1 unused inner disc piece.
$7 shipped to USA.
Thanks,
-Jason

3 weeks later
#7389 1 year ago

I had a booger of a time consistently making the soft-plunge arcade game skill shot.

It turned out that the shooter rod (or maybe just the rubber tip...I forget?) was just rubbing the side of the auto-launcher bracket, so I wasn't getting consistent plunges.

Check this out on your machine--the bracket may be interfering with your shooter rod motion/alignment.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from koops:

On my machine when the ball exits the shooter lane it often rattles the shot, hits the pop bumper post or doesn't cleanly go into the orbit if at all.
I'll double check the shooter tip to make sure it's hitting the ball squarely in the middle but apart from that are there any other tricks?

#7396 1 year ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I bought it from a Pinside member Jasonbar who had an extra and it was a clear one. I don't know if it was the same one from Germany. Might be? He also had blue ones that I have never seen before.

Yup, German!

Enjoy the mayhem, Mok!

-Jason

2 months later
#7475 1 year ago

FINALLY!

Portal!

Haven't played in months. Actually got a couple hours yesterday where I had no distractions, had the garage to myself, it wasn't late at night so I wasn't groggy (in fact, I'd just woken up from a rare nap!), & wouldn't disturb the family by playing Tron, what with its loud bumpin' soundtrack & big speakers.

Had about 4 games that ranged from awful to acceptable.

Then I started another unremarkable game that went kablooey on ball 3.
Got to Sea of Simulation. I rarely get there. Had only a few more modes to finish when I got to SOS.
Finished SOS!

Got to Portal!
What am I supposed to do!?!?!? Lots of balls, told to shoot all shots? Like, *all* shots? Didn't last very long--oh well, it was still a fun ride.

Kept on going...got to Sea of Simulation again!
Didn't finish SOS the 2nd time around.

229,944,110

I'm pretty certain that this will never ever happen again. Therefore, I had to document it. :]

Thanks,
-Jason

20180203_180913 (resized).jpg
20180203_180924 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#7579 1 year ago

I got the Pinball Customs recognizer bank cover decal. Installed over 3 years ago & still looks great (but my game doesn't get heavy play).
First order never showed up--after 1 month of waiting, I contacted them & they immediately sent another, which took 19 days to get to California.

Thanks,
-Jason

2 weeks later
3 months later
#8037 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Portal Animation Update - I got my 10 test controllers in from China today. Got the first one wired up and it it works! This weekend I'll put some more effort into a mounting system but so far so good.

Very cool. I thought I was done modding mine, but this one is tempting...

Apologies if these questions aren't answered already, but:

1 - Got a price point in mind?
2 - Will the end user be able to adjust the animation speed?
3 - Can the LED strip brightness be adjusted? (I'm sure it could always be dimmed by applying tape over it...)

Thanks!
-Jason

#8048 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

That and I've installed the pinbits plastic protectors and cliffy ramp protectors already for added safety.

1- I'm shooting for $50 for a plug an play treatment. That is: Mounting bracket to the light tube, panel for the light strip, light strip w/ controller installed, wiring long enough to reach the spare 5v plug in the front of the game and the Molex connector to plug into that connector or a distribution block. I could probably look at just the light strip without the bracket and panel for $25 shipped.
2 - Yes. The speed is controllable.
3 - No, the brightness is set. But you can change the output colors and animations. Their are aprox 40 different animations that the controller will do. Only 3 felt like something that would go with the translight due to colors but their are several options.
Not really sure the amount of interest. Right now I have enough controllers to make 7 kits. If their is more interest I'll have to order more, which took fore ever to ship and arrive

Fabulousness!

More than interested--put me down to buy 1 kit when it's ready.
I don't need the fluorescent mount bracket. I've already got custom flashers on poster board in the backbox.

Thanks!
-Jason

#8060 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Yes, but it will most likely cost more to ship there.
Here is what I'm looking at after getting all parts together and time to soldier things together for a plug and play system as well as brackets. Brackets are going to be plexiglas strips held on the tube with a holder on the light.
With bracket - $55 shipped in lower 48. (Additional for non lower 48)
Without bracket - $35 shipped
I have parts for 6 right now. If their is more interest in them I'll order more controllers and lighting. The rest I can get at the hardware store.

Just tell me how you want to get paid... :]

#8066 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Jasonbar – Full Kit

No mount bracket for me, please. Just the electronics/wires/controller/strip.

Thanks!
-Jason

#8092 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

The guy behind the desk at the depot was not particularly fond of me after an hour and 10 minutes processing all of these

Whoah!

Do you not have an option of weighing and measuring your packages at home, buying and printing appropriate postage, affixing postage, then just taking ready-to-go packages to walk in/dump/walk out at the post office?

I've been going that route for years in the US. It's worlds above the old-fashioned method you seem to have used.

Just hoping this information can save you some precious time for your next venture.

And that torturous experience you suffered through makes us all appreciate you all the more.
You're too damn nice!

Thank you,
Jason

1 week later
#8136 1 year ago

Got my not-with-a-fluorescent-light-tube-bracket kit in the mail yesterday.
I already had a backbox flasher kit that I designed & Pinball Refinery fabricated.
That flasher kit already had a strip going up the middle for the Portal light. Pretty neat when the flasher strip is going & this pulsing strip is also doing its thing.

Installed.
Awesome!

Plenty of cable length. Construction seems solid.

The controller has a bajillion color/animation modes. It takes forever to cycle through them all.
At first, I desired a slower fade in/fade out upward animation in white, maybe blue, but there was some weird flickering as the strip fired the multiple colors to generate white--it didn't look quite right to me.

So, I switched to a sequential on/off upward moving lighting pattern & sped it up. I think I'll stick with this, but it's super easy to change it.

In my case, I made a temporary installation by keeping the adhesive film cover on the LED strip & using Velcro strips to hold the new light strip in place.
This allows for me to adjust its position if desired, and it also allows me to pull off the flasher board & remove it from the game altogether.
I may add a male/female connector pair to this portal strip if & when I know I'm satisfied with it & wish to make it permanent but removable for maintenance.
Before sticking the Velcro, I tacked it in place w/ masking tape to confirm its location.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VhjWzNuo9kYWyt5c9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bM2D2iy8Z3FTf1Db7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pF8EAKsnjSzWa1o19
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JzTwuk4E3G3CsrCa9

And then I played a game...and got a lousy 5 mil... :\

Thanks!
-Jason

Quoted from 85vett:

I finished the first set of kits today and have messaged everyone that I had on the list for them (in the US). Those over the pond I had to wait so that I could get shipping quotes for your countries as I don't want to over charge you nor do I really want to eat a bunch of shipping.
Those that got a PM. Please respond even if you no longer are interested so that I can move down the list. I will be shipping most likely Thursday or Sat due to my current schedule with working on our house to get it sold.

20180730_222638 (resized).jpg20180730_222647 (resized).jpg20180730_222702 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#8265 1 year ago

Why stop at the portal animation kit?

Christmas is only 4 months away, people!!! Come on! Time to start comparing, testing, & scheming this year's external house decoration upgrades.
Last year it was using clips to hang simple dangly icicle lights along the garage, accentuated with a laser projector turning the house into a galaxy.

Those are tired.

Tron portal LED chase kit is wired:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fNQJbiuZGnLikxdA7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GW7bY1Ebrw64BeG69

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jGCeH3bWQAfzGFuX8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iMsMCkWeXRzRxGHP8

Test 1 competed today. In a minute, ordering oodles more reels of addressable LED strip.

End of line.
-Jason

2 months later
#8475 11 months ago

Mystery Tron bling: please help.

I'm going through my tub of pinball lights & light-related goodies in order to LEDify the house for the holidays.
(Already blinged Mr. Skeleton w/ LED strips that I'd intended to use on Tron but didn't: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UAi4Jcogf61XcCjY9)

I'm pretty sure these are EL paper for backlit apron cards. No ID information. What sort of power do I put into these thingies?
20181023_233102 (resized).jpg
20181023_233119 (resized).jpg

And is this a GI Buddy?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/open-source-freeish-pinball-electronics-kit-gi-buddy
I seem to have bought 2 of them 4 years ago. I don't expect to end up using them. Anybody want?
20181023_233308 (resized).jpg
20181023_233318 (resized).jpg

Thanks,
-Jason

#8486 11 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

You are correct on the EL cards, those inverters need a regulated 12V input, I think most games use a dedicated power supply plugged into the service outlet for them.
The GI buddy is neat, I could think of some mod ideas to tie into the GI with it. If you don't want it I would be glad to use it

Thanks. Installed the cards last night--took rather a bit longer than I expected.

When working on little sleep, you'd be surprised how many times you stuff pins in the wrong end of a connector...oy...

The previous owner included these when he sold me my Tron pro....over 4 years ago....

Pretty sweet. They do chatter/whine a bit, but that's audible only when the game is idle. Bonus: they way the cards bow upward a little & have the corners hidden where the cards insert into the apron holes makes them look a bit like CRTs in the images.

They're a little on the bright side for me--perhaps I can find some cards with darker art to install...?

Thank you,
-Jason

PS--As for the GI Buddy, thanks for helping ID. I already have a bit of interest. Please stay tuned. :]

20181024_230853 (resized).jpg20181024_230909 (resized).jpg20181024_230913 (resized).jpg

#8492 11 months ago

All's not well in the grid on my Tron Pro.

1.
Last week, upon game start, the Recognizer bank continually went up & down. Suspected bad switches 52 (3-Bank Motor Down) and/or 53 (3-Bank Motor Up).
Further research revealed the 3 Recognizer 3-bank targets are also dead.

2.
Ah-ha! Must be 2N3904 transistor Q4 for switch matrix row 4, on pin J1-P5.
(I'd had the same problem w/ row 2 in March 2017, fixed w/ a new transistor, so I still had 19 more transistors in stock: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-pro-switch-matrix-row-2-unresponsive).

3.
I replaced Q4, and the game behaves perfectly in switch self-test. The bank goes up & down & stops at the right spots just splendidly. The bank targets work. All other switches work. Pushing on other switches in the game, or bumping/shaking the cabinet & PF themselves do not register erroneous switch closures on the switches in row 4.

4.
BUUUTTTTT!!!!
Gameplay is wonky & irrational!!!
Watch this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/E1Pek8rrDFVsDSxAA

a) 00m03s: When I push start a ball kicks into the shooter lane, it registers a hit on the Recognizer bank (insert glows & cool sound is played).
b) 00m16s: When I'm batting the ball around the PF or, in this case, when I think it's draining, it registers a ton of rapid-fire hits on the Recognizer targets & announces "Battle Rinzler for Disc War Multiball" & starts spinning up the identify disc.
c) 00m22s: When ball 2 starts, the disc is spinning & its 4 flashers are flashing, but the bank stays firmly up.

This behavior is very repeatable now that I fixed (or perhaps "fixed" row 4).

I can grasp some switch matrix (column?) or other shorting weirdness that would lead to erroneous phantom switch closures on the 3-bank target, but I don't know why the 3-bank isn't going down when it starts spinning the disc in preparation for Disc Multiball.

Help me. I don't want to stay stuck & have the Grid Bugs get me!

Thanks,
-Jason

#8499 11 months ago

Entered the grid last night to try to exterminate the grid bugs that are wonking up my recognizer & disc.

Found some interesting switch matrix behavior.
Does this sound like an issue w/ a switch diode, wiring, the switch matrix chip on the MPU, other?

There's some weird correlation between row 2 & row 4 of the switch matrix. If a switch in row 2 is closed, then the corresponding row 4 switch in the same column will also close. And vice versa.
Example: When Trough #4 at row 2 column 2 is closed, then Recognizer 3-Bank at row 4 column 2 is also closed.

This explains why my 3-bank was dropping instantly--the trough switches are in the same columns as the Recognizer 3-Bank switches & the 3-Bank Motor Up/Down switches.

In self-test, even the many unused switches in row 4 show as closed when their corresponding switches in row 2 are closed (Shooter Lane, Left Outlane, etc.). See attached 2.JPG (which shows 4 balls in trough, w/ 4 corresponding switches in row 2 also closed).
Exception #1: closing Trough Jam at row 2 column 6 does not make the unused switch #54 at row 4 column 6 close. I'm guessing because Trough Jam is an opto.
Exception #2: closing Left Ramp exit switch #37 at row 3 column 5 will also close switches #34, #35, & #36 (which are all on row 3).

Other observations:
- If the 3-bank is down & switch #52 is closed as it should be, all switches seem to behave except Trough 2 switch #20 (2 above on matrix) is stuck closed.
- If the 3-bank is up & switch #53 is closed as it should be, & if there is a ball closing Trough 2 switch #20, then switch #52 is also falsely closed, & the game thinks that the 3-bank up & the 3-bank switches are both closed, hence the odd bank behavior. See attached 1.JPG.

Phew!

Any help appreciated.
If not for me, then do it for my 6yo son, who's playing the heck out of my machines these days! :]

Thanks,
-Jason

1 (resized).JPG2 (resized).JPGThe Grid (resized).JPG
1 week later
#8504 11 months ago

Sark drives a Jeep!

20181109_151514 (resized).jpg
#8542 11 months ago

Grid bug squashed!
Tron rebooted & operating nominally!

Not a loose switch.
Not a misaligned disc opto.
Not bad wiring.
Not a bad switch diode.

The.
Trough.
Opto.
PCB.

One of the consistent misbehaving switches (regardless of presence of balls in trough & regardless of 3-bank position) was that the Trough Jam switch was always closed.
Unplugging the trough opto PCB made everything else behave.
So, new trough opto Rx PCB from Pinball Life & all's well!

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from jasonbar:

Entered the grid last night to try to exterminate the grid bugs that are wonking up my recognizer &amp; disc.
Found some interesting switch matrix behavior.
Does this sound like an issue w/ a switch diode, wiring, the switch matrix chip on the MPU, other?
There's some weird correlation between row 2 &amp; row 4 of the switch matrix. If a switch in row 2 is closed, then the corresponding row 4 switch in the same column will also close. And vice versa.
Example: When Trough #4 at row 2 column 2 is closed, then Recognizer 3-Bank at row 4 column 2 is also closed.
This explains why my 3-bank was dropping instantly--the trough switches are in the same columns as the Recognizer 3-Bank switches &amp; the 3-Bank Motor Up/Down switches.
In self-test, even the many unused switches in row 4 show as closed when their corresponding switches in row 2 are closed (Shooter Lane, Left Outlane, etc.). See attached 2.JPG (which shows 4 balls in trough, w/ 4 corresponding switches in row 2 also closed).
Exception #1: closing Trough Jam at row 2 column 6 does not make the unused switch #54 at row 4 column 6 close. I'm guessing because Trough Jam is an opto.
Exception #2: closing Left Ramp exit switch #37 at row 3 column 5 will also close switches #34, #35, &amp; #36 (which are all on row 3).
Other observations:
- If the 3-bank is down &amp; switch #52 is closed as it should be, all switches seem to behave except Trough 2 switch #20 (2 above on matrix) is stuck closed.
- If the 3-bank is up &amp; switch #53 is closed as it should be, &amp; if there is a ball closing Trough 2 switch #20, then switch #52 is also falsely closed, &amp; the game thinks that the 3-bank up &amp; the 3-bank switches are both closed, hence the odd bank behavior. See attached 1.JPG.
Phew!
Any help appreciated.
If not for me, then do it for my 6yo son, who's playing the heck out of my machines these days! :]

3 weeks later
#8581 10 months ago

@spyk

Sounds not too unlike the weirdness that was baffling me for a while: bad trough opto board resulted in switch errors on 3-bank. Try unplugging your trough opto (for rightmost ball + ball jam) & see if weirdness is corrected.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/171#post-4692320

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/170#post-4662749

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/170#post-4659903

Good luck.
-Jason

3 weeks later
#8677 9 months ago

External volume controller installed into tournament button hole.

Woohoo!

I went with a momentary on-off-momentary on switch that was rather difficult to source.

https://www.hndme.com/collection/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=160&idcategory=27&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6ozhBRC8ARIsAIh_VC2kV4jOvjsqua1d1HzTk6BqRCVt-l0gFWDpdL_uggfH252QWVY-Y0YaAo93EALw_wcB

I started w/ snakesnsparklers' kit but wanted momentary instead of latching. This switch's threads needed a bit of hand filing to fit into the plug housing, but it's now a snug fit.

Now easy to crank Daft Punk when the kids are awake or turn it down when they're asleep.
I wonder how long till my 3-year-old spots the new switch & starts poking at it when I'm trying to play...

Thanks,
-Jason

PS--I am really really bad at taking pictures of all-black things on an all-white background!

20190101_160636 (resized).jpg20190101_160644 (resized).jpg20190101_160920 (resized).jpg20190101_160926 (resized).jpg
4 months later
#9038 5 months ago

I just popped open my Tron to lube the identity disc motor. It's a bit loud--not bad, but I do notice it.

I haven't worked on my Tron in a while--most of my pinball work of late has been on my Wizard of Oz.
Boy, was it ever trivial to pop out this motor + disc assembly! This machine seems so simple & easy to work on after wrestling w/ some WOZ repairs!

A bit of 3-in-1 on both bushings didn't seem to make an appreciable difference--perhaps a smidge, but that could just be my imagination.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/180#post-4971689

While I was in there, I replaced the Pinball Center white identity disc rubbers that I'd installed about 4.5 years ago with a fresh set.
The old set was peeling up a bit & getting a little chewed.

WOW! I'd forgotten how gnarly these disc rubbers are! They *definitely* mellow out over time.
The fresh set has really aggressive bite & instantly grabs & flings the ball with authority. The worn-out set was super gentle in comparison.

Thanks,
-Jason

4 months later
#9266 16 days ago
Quoted from weaverj:

getting some weird things happening with TRON lately. had double ball in shooter lane the other afternoon. today, all balls in trough, and it went into ball search. i've heard stern trough optos have their issues. anything to try before replacing? is there a specific model or part #? tyvm.

Perhaps related, perhaps not.
Perhaps helpful, perhaps not.

I had some goofball switch errors that were causing the 3-bank to go weird.
After frustrating investigation, I determined that the trough opto board was bad, but the resulting behavior was affecting switches elsewhere.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-pro-switch-matrix-row-2-unresponsive#post-4659904

So, quite possible that a trough opto PCB can go bad & need replacing.

Thanks,
-Jason

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