(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.


By centerflank

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,100 posts
  • 459 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by monkeyboypaul
  • Topic is favorited by 135 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 390 votes
    71%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
    19%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes
    11%

(551 votes)

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider herg.
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#1005 5 years ago

East coast, but he ships cross country.

#1007 5 years ago
Quoted from dkpinball:

I need to see if I can get Herg to share his video of what he did with his PIG on his Tron. People can share configuration files so if you like what someone did, you can easily reproduce it.
Also ChadH has his Tron all done as well. He was trying to figure out how to get his topper working before sharing the video and configuraion. Maybe I can get him to post it here.

I posted both the video and configuration in another thread recently. Here is where the discussion started.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-light-cycles-on-all-the-time-or-just-during-ramp-shots#post-1143475

Feel free to use the video and/or configuration file any way you see fit.

Quoted from btw75:

Any chance on firmware upgrade for the invert?

Quoted from dkpinball:

Yea, we have some beta code out there, it's probably time for an official update.

The beta8 version you sent me seems solid and worthy of a release.

1 year later
#3262 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I just got my ramp kit and installed it. Up until this point I didn't truly understand the glow of electric sex under the playfield glass. It's a beaut, Clark.
IMG_20150411_242610172.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Just wait until you get used to having it, then play a Tron without it.

1 week later
#3319 4 years ago
Quoted from Jawa:

A very corroded post. We start taking a close look at other posts of the same type and find seven of the eight posts of this type have some corrosion in the threads.

From the pictures, it looks like rust, but those posts are stainless steel, aren't they? Maybe someone used cheap screws, and the rust is from those.

3 weeks later
#3457 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

which interface board?

This one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lighting-mod-for-tron-ramp-kit-owners-gauging-interest

I designed it, and Nelly built a small batch of them. I think he still has some available.

#3490 4 years ago

Sometimes I wonder if Jason Sudeikis lurks here and what he thinks about all of us ogling his wife.

1 week later
#3568 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

did your wife agree ?

If not, she's wrong. That spot was obviously custom built to house a pin.

#3594 4 years ago

Of course, you guys are talking about Quorra, but this is still on topic, I think. My wife was flipping through one of those Facebook time wasters; this one was celebrity's real names.

Olivia Wilde = Olivia Jane Cockburn
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olivia_Wilde

1 month later
#3732 4 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

just did this for a mate, so thought to share it here, we are going to paint a bright blue paint into the lettering to help it pop.
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinksshooters
hope to join the tron club one day, very cool machine.

625x465_3614546_11184603_1436699851.jpg.png

I just ordered one in polished grey steel. I'll be interested to see pictures of the painted one to help me decide whether to paint mine or not.

#3800 3 years ago

Mine is pig 2 controlled.

#3862 3 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

Sorry for the slight shipping delay!

No worries. If it causes your shipping to be more expensive, be sure to let us know, and I'll gladly send you the difference. I looked at the PinballCenter page today, and it would be 10 Euro shipping to get them direct, so I really appreciate you taking the time to manage bulk orders for us.

#3933 3 years ago

Guess what I'm doing this weekend. Glory hole time!

20150731_143701.jpg

#3951 3 years ago

A quick recommendation for others getting ready to install the clear disk; do a dry fit check first. Mine was slightly too big, and I didn't find it until I was sticking it in place.

Next, "drunk sailor" doesn't properly describe it. I'd say defective missile.

#3953 3 years ago

I think I'm going to wuss out and put a regular rubber disk back in mine. I had a ball fly over the left sling and outlane, into the apron. I can feel the entire machine shake when it grabs a ball, and I've started gritting my teeth every time the ball gets near it. I'm afraid it's going to break something.

#3964 3 years ago

Sorry for the crappy video quality, but here's an example of what the silicon disc does. Pay attention to the second shot; that's a chunk of the disc that tore loose and flew across the playfiled.

#3979 3 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Holy crap was the old one hard to get off.

Ain't that the truth! Heat and Goo Gone weren't cutting it. I ended up clamping the whole motor assembly to the workbench, powering the motor, and using a piece of sandpaper to clean mine up.

#3981 3 years ago

Maybe, but the disc itself (the part you're keeping) is made of relatively soft plastic. I would think a razor blade would tend to cut into it. I didn't try it, though. I was trying to scrape some off with a flat bladed screwdriver when I decided I needed more power.

The adhesive that was left on mine was brittle and very tough. It was nothing like what I expected with a gooey backing that you could heat up, peel off, then clean up the leftovers with Goo Gone.

#3985 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I think I'll just order another disc, the have discs to swap out if needed

Be ready for a fight with the set screw. As mentioned above, it's very difficult to remove.

#3993 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Do we need to figure out how to make the motor spin slower?

There are already resistors in series with the motor to drop the voltage to about 12V. You could put a larger value of resistor there to limit this a bit more. Whether it's necessary is debatable.

#3994 3 years ago

double post

#4057 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I have 3 different shooter knobs at shapeways and the one in the pic is a sample with rod fitted and top engraving painted in blue
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinksshooter
P1100435.jpg

I got mine finished and installed today. Thanks.
20150811_174830.jpg

#4100 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Should have known......some day, I will make the 100 mil club, or the glass is coming off!!!

I'm right there with you. My best is 93M, and I made it to Portal in that game! That was back when I was working on firmware for Eli's ramps, and I was doing a lot of playtesting. I'm lucky to get SOS these days.

#4109 3 years ago

No, you'd know if you had a beta kit. I have one, and it included making my own mounting bracket for lights. I think he actually said the beta kits were a bit brighter than the production, but the difference is minimal.

Mine does get a little bit washed out if there is a lot of other light hitting it, but it is by no means "extreme". The important parts I can think of:
1. Make sure the end of the fiber is cut smooth. The smoother the better since it allows light to enter the fiber more easily.
2. Make sure the end of the fiber is pushed fully against the light emitter.
3. Avoid any sharp bends when routing the fiber. A kink in the fiber will allow a lot of light leakage. You'll end up with a bright spot and the rest of it will be dimmer as a result.
4. Avoid any nicks in the surface of the fiber from things like ramp screws cutting into it. This is the same type of problem as a kink.

12
#4129 3 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

little wires that light up

You haven't seen it in person, have you? Granted, $500 is a lot, but it makes the game. It's completely naked without it. I've seen the single color EL wire mods, and they do not hold a candle to Eli's lighting.

#4132 3 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

What's the link to this eli kit you are talking about?

It's the same as the Pinbits one. Eli designed it, then handed it over to Pinbits for manufacturing and sales.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_65&products_id=566

1 month later
#4365 3 years ago

I went black, and I'm not going back.

1 month later
#4637 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

What bulb are some people using on the TRON sling floods?

I use these:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528.htm

2 months later
#4862 3 years ago

Just lamp. I love it.

1 week later
#4981 3 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

Well I finally connected my Subwoofer....that lasted about 3 minutes before the wife came down and said "Oh no!, that Isn't going to work"!!

My wife asked, "What's her problem?"

#4983 3 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

Are you Herg from the Atari Game By Game podcast? I always wanted to ask.

No, different guy, I guess.

#4994 3 years ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

Stock. What's the German one?

Pinball Center in Germany sells a clear silicon one. Here's an example of what it does.

#5031 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Love me some TRON in color - ORDERED! Woohoo, can't wait! I wonder which mode will look best - DOT XL, SCAN, HIRES? - it should be fun!!!

I had one running Sigma for a long time now, and on this particular game, I love me some TILE.

#5071 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Do some people actually look at the timer bars?

I don't. Even if I had the time to glance at the DMD, deciphering it is nearly impossible. Color coding might make them usable, but I suspect I would still end up ignoring them.

#5088 3 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

Very efficient, now only if they were pj's

Who says they're not?

#5106 3 years ago

No secrets. Just a few people that already have ColorDMD installed making sure all is well before the release.

1 week later
#5249 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. Do Trons by default come with a blue DMD though? No right?
Also - does the Eli ramp lights actually work with the game modes or not? Keep on reading diff things about it. Not sure it's worth it if it doesn't change with the game actions.

They come with either an orange plasma or red LED, depending on which build. Not blue.

Eli ramp light definitely do change based on the game modes.

1 month later
#5771 3 years ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

"Who does that" to their Mercedes

Californians.

3 months later
#6401 2 years ago

I'm getting ready to take another shot at the clear disk, but I'd like it to be reversible. I've seen the plastic part at Pinball Life, but is there somewhere I can get the metal bracket that mounts the disk to the motor shaft? Also, has anyone been successful at removing the set screw that holds it on there? When I tried, it wasn't moving, and I was worried about stripping the head of the set screw.

#6403 2 years ago

Thanks for the link.

I've actually already had the clear disk in mine once, wussed out, and replaced it with black. I'd like to try again, maybe even make a speed controller for it, but I'd like to be able to easily switch back. Since you have to remove the rubber to get to the screws for the disc, I'm thinking that the only good option is to get the set screw to move. That, or replace the whole assembly, including the motor.

#6405 2 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Don't go nuts, man.

Already there. That's how I work.

I've cleaned it out once, and I cussed the whole time. The price on the hub does make me think twice, though.

#6412 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Smoothest bourbon I've had in some time....

Especially good for the price. I usually end up with Blanton's, but I'm not sure I could even tell a difference after the first drink.

#6438 2 years ago
Quoted from bjorg:

My Tron started acting up a bit. Specifically, when a ball is in play and I hit the right flipper button, it frequently causes the bumpers to react although the ball is nowhere near them. Any suggestions what I should look for?

Look at the gaps on the switches under the bumpers. They need to be close, but not too close. If too close, vibration can cause them to misfire.

1 week later
#6454 2 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

en respect para el Centerflank !

Quoted from ENDOFLINE:

are those the medicom reocognizers??
i want.... i want

Looks 3d printed.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25879

16
#6474 2 years ago

I just made Portal for only my second time since buying the game in 2012. I know it's not a great score compared to some of you guys, but I'm fired up!!!

20160827_075716 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#6484 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkwing:

That's some crazy high score man, what's your strategy for getting there? This is coming from a guy that JUST BARELY beat the default grand master score, keep in mind

I'm probably not the right person to ask for strategy. I play for advancement in the game, and I do not focus on score. Basically, I just try to start all the modes and do the best in them that I can. One thing, though, is that I always try to complete light cycle multiball if it's running. It's way harder to complete during SOS than during multiball.

1 month later
#6560 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I agree, drilling is nice, but on a smooth surface that bit likes to move.

It's also very soft. I drilled mine and really didn't have much problem with wander at all, even without pilots.

#6568 2 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

Query for people who have had the game longer than me, is it possible to set the height of the disc? I think mine is a little too high and could do with coming down slightly, maybe 1cm or 2. A friend said this is possible but I've no idea how, help please?

Yes, there are nuts on the sides of the bracket that holds the motor. You can loosen them, then move the entire motor/disc assembly up and down in relation to the bracket. BTW, I hope you mean 1mm or 2. 2cm would be huge!

3 months later
#6736 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Brought her home last week. Couldn't be happier. I replaced the disc with a new one, and swapped out the black rubber with clear. No more black marks and the recognizer is seriously fast now. I have 75 feet of LED strips covering the perimeter of my walls... tomorrow I'll be tying them into my custom light board, so the entire room will be in sync with the el ramps. Good times!

Are you planning to try running 75 ft of LED strip directly off the board I designed? If so, that's a lot of current. I'd suggest starting with a shorter run and monitoring the temperature of the transistors on the board.

I really want to be in a room when it goes completely blue and yellow with a sub rattling the walls when starting LCMB.

#6740 2 years ago

An estimate for the "300 LED" type strips is about 1A per 10 ft per color. So, for 75 ft, each transistor would be carrying about 7.5A. They're rated much higher than that, but that's assuming a big heatsink on them. They're just stood straight up with no heat sink, so they will not stay cool enough to meet the rated value.

An IR thermometer is a good way to measure the temperature, but your finger works too. If it burns your finger, it's too hot.

You also want to make sure your power supply is up to it. Don't try to do this using the 12V connector in your game.

#6741 2 years ago

The more I think about it, you'll probably hit the limit on the power input connector before the transistor limit. I have no experience with these "amplifiers", but it seems like they would do the trick, offloading the current from the adapter board.

amazon.com link »

#6743 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

the amplifier sounds like a good idea. Where in the chain of things would these go? Definitely between each string of lights, so for three strings that would be two... what if I only use one string, would i still sneak this in somewhere?

You could use it before any long string. Between the adapter board and the room strings would keep you from blowing fuses or burning something up on the adapter board or your game. You might still overload the amplifier if you have 75 ft hanging off it.

The most conservative, but possibly overkill would be:
adatper -> amplifier -> 25 ft -> amplifier -> 25 ft -> amplifier -> 25 ft

Depending on how the strings are physically located, you could also:

adpater -> splitter -> amplifier -> 25 ft
.............................-> amplifier -> 25 ft
.............................-> amplifier -> 25 ft

1 year later
#7630 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

do you have a video of it? Curious how crazy this thing is.

Not a good video, but here's something:

#7642 1 year ago

I added resistors in series with the existing stock one. That slowed the motor down so that it's still more aggressive than the black disk, but doesn't feel like it's going to break something.

#7644 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

using the white disc though?

The clear one. I installed it, and it was so strong, I puckered every time a ball went in there. I then played with resistor values until I found one that I liked.

#7646 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK that's the imported one right? I just want to ensure I'm not missing out on a local one I can buy besides black...

Yeah, it's the PinballCenter one.

#7648 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Herg: if you could take a pic of this it and the resistor specs it would be great to have for reference!

I figured that was coming. Yeah, I'll post one this weekend.

#7651 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Herg: if you could take a pic of this it and the resistor specs it would be great to have for reference!

I used 2x Xicon 280-CR10-3.0-RC, 3 Ohm, 10W, wirewound resistors. They're cheap enough that I would suggest getting multiple values to try. I tried pairs of 1-5 Ohms and settled on the 3 Ohm. I added connectors and just plugged in between the motor and harness.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/280-CR10-30-RC?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhQnyZb%252bcSQhYMJQhy5oStP3USc4tFqbPCBhu0X%252bhlkSg%3d%3d

20180427_194239 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#7733 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

While I have chance I’ve updated the list and also added the number of discs people have asked for, again if there are any errors post here and I’ll correct them ASAP!

I'm in for a few as well:
herg x 3

Thanks for doing this. If you do end up with any extras this time, I'd be willing to take them and make them available for the inevitable guy who wants them after the bulk order is done.

#7761 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

I am pretty sure it was due to a couple of C&D orders sent to them about some non licenced licensed items the compromise or solution was to simply not distribute and sell to the US.

2 months later
#8176 11 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i would imagine most people would hate one and love the other.

Quoted from BoJo:

Not me. Those are two of my all time favories.

Not me, either. Both are keepers for me. I've owned TZ 20 years and Tron 6 years.

3 months later
#8548 7 months ago
Quoted from hwol:

Hi,
how did you connect the resistor with the connector, by soldering?
Did you check the temperature of the resistors after intensive gameplay, are they becoming hot?
Greetings from Southtirol(Italy)

A properly done crimp is enough, but you could follow up with solder if you wanted.

I have not checked the temperature, but they are chosen to handle the current. We're only talking about 0.5A or so. If we go conservative and say 1A, over 3 ohms, that's 3W being dissipated. They're rated for 10W.

1 month later
#8632 6 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Okay, but it also is clicking when the dmd score changes between balls? Seems odd?

It does turn off the GI during the bonus countdown between balls.

3 months later
#8842 3 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Thunder Dog challenges Lightning Kitty for the long-standing Tron thread title crown.
[quoted image]
(I'm bored - might play Tron)

I suggest you start a new thread and see if it can lure the Lightning Kitty followers to the new thread. That's the only way we'll know who the true king is.

1 week later
#8893 3 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Herg’s board just syncs up the topper, speaker lights etc... with the ramp lights, so they all change together. Definitely don’t think it syncs anything to the music, it’s all switch based.

I've tried to tell him that, but he insists he's going to convince me by posting a video.

Techincally, the Eli ramp lighting uses lamp, coils, and flashers to figure out which mode(s) are active. My board follows what the ramp lighting is doing, which the one exception that it lights blue when the ramps go dark.

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