East coast, but he ships cross country.

I posted both the video and configuration in another thread recently. Here is where the discussion started.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-light-cycles-on-all-the-time-or-just-during-ramp-shots#post-1143475

Feel free to use the video and/or configuration file any way you see fit.

The beta8 version you sent me seems solid and worthy of a release.

Just wait until you get used to having it, then play a Tron without it.

From the pictures, it looks like rust, but those posts are stainless steel, aren't they? Maybe someone used cheap screws, and the rust is from those.

This one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lighting-mod-for-tron-ramp-kit-owners-gauging-interest

I designed it, and Nelly built a small batch of them. I think he still has some available.

Sometimes I wonder if Jason Sudeikis lurks here and what he thinks about all of us ogling his wife.

If not, she's wrong. That spot was obviously custom built to house a pin.

Of course, you guys are talking about Quorra, but this is still on topic, I think. My wife was flipping through one of those Facebook time wasters; this one was celebrity's real names.

Olivia Wilde = Olivia Jane Cockburn
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olivia_Wilde

I just ordered one in polished grey steel. I'll be interested to see pictures of the painted one to help me decide whether to paint mine or not.

Mine is pig 2 controlled.

No worries. If it causes your shipping to be more expensive, be sure to let us know, and I'll gladly send you the difference. I looked at the PinballCenter page today, and it would be 10 Euro shipping to get them direct, so I really appreciate you taking the time to manage bulk orders for us.

Guess what I'm doing this weekend. Glory hole time!

20150731_143701.jpg

A quick recommendation for others getting ready to install the clear disk; do a dry fit check first. Mine was slightly too big, and I didn't find it until I was sticking it in place.

Next, "drunk sailor" doesn't properly describe it. I'd say defective missile.

I think I'm going to wuss out and put a regular rubber disk back in mine. I had a ball fly over the left sling and outlane, into the apron. I can feel the entire machine shake when it grabs a ball, and I've started gritting my teeth every time the ball gets near it. I'm afraid it's going to break something.

Sorry for the crappy video quality, but here's an example of what the silicon disc does. Pay attention to the second shot; that's a chunk of the disc that tore loose and flew across the playfiled.

Ain't that the truth! Heat and Goo Gone weren't cutting it. I ended up clamping the whole motor assembly to the workbench, powering the motor, and using a piece of sandpaper to clean mine up.

Maybe, but the disc itself (the part you're keeping) is made of relatively soft plastic. I would think a razor blade would tend to cut into it. I didn't try it, though. I was trying to scrape some off with a flat bladed screwdriver when I decided I needed more power.

The adhesive that was left on mine was brittle and very tough. It was nothing like what I expected with a gooey backing that you could heat up, peel off, then clean up the leftovers with Goo Gone.

Be ready for a fight with the set screw. As mentioned above, it's very difficult to remove.

There are already resistors in series with the motor to drop the voltage to about 12V. You could put a larger value of resistor there to limit this a bit more. Whether it's necessary is debatable.

double post

I got mine finished and installed today. Thanks.
20150811_174830.jpg

I'm right there with you. My best is 93M, and I made it to Portal in that game! That was back when I was working on firmware for Eli's ramps, and I was doing a lot of playtesting. I'm lucky to get SOS these days.

No, you'd know if you had a beta kit. I have one, and it included making my own mounting bracket for lights. I think he actually said the beta kits were a bit brighter than the production, but the difference is minimal.

Mine does get a little bit washed out if there is a lot of other light hitting it, but it is by no means "extreme". The important parts I can think of:
1. Make sure the end of the fiber is cut smooth. The smoother the better since it allows light to enter the fiber more easily.
2. Make sure the end of the fiber is pushed fully against the light emitter.
3. Avoid any sharp bends when routing the fiber. A kink in the fiber will allow a lot of light leakage. You'll end up with a bright spot and the rest of it will be dimmer as a result.
4. Avoid any nicks in the surface of the fiber from things like ramp screws cutting into it. This is the same type of problem as a kink.

You haven't seen it in person, have you? Granted, $500 is a lot, but it makes the game. It's completely naked without it. I've seen the single color EL wire mods, and they do not hold a candle to Eli's lighting.

It's the same as the Pinbits one. Eli designed it, then handed it over to Pinbits for manufacturing and sales.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_65&products_id=566

I went black, and I'm not going back.

I use these:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528.htm

Just lamp. I love it.

My wife asked, "What's her problem?"

No, different guy, I guess.

Pinball Center in Germany sells a clear silicon one. Here's an example of what it does.

I had one running Sigma for a long time now, and on this particular game, I love me some TILE.

I don't. Even if I had the time to glance at the DMD, deciphering it is nearly impossible. Color coding might make them usable, but I suspect I would still end up ignoring them.

Who says they're not?

No secrets. Just a few people that already have ColorDMD installed making sure all is well before the release.

They come with either an orange plasma or red LED, depending on which build. Not blue.

Eli ramp light definitely do change based on the game modes.

Californians.

I'm getting ready to take another shot at the clear disk, but I'd like it to be reversible. I've seen the plastic part at Pinball Life, but is there somewhere I can get the metal bracket that mounts the disk to the motor shaft? Also, has anyone been successful at removing the set screw that holds it on there? When I tried, it wasn't moving, and I was worried about stripping the head of the set screw.

Thanks for the link.

I've actually already had the clear disk in mine once, wussed out, and replaced it with black. I'd like to try again, maybe even make a speed controller for it, but I'd like to be able to easily switch back. Since you have to remove the rubber to get to the screws for the disc, I'm thinking that the only good option is to get the set screw to move. That, or replace the whole assembly, including the motor.

Already there. That's how I work.

I've cleaned it out once, and I cussed the whole time. The price on the hub does make me think twice, though.

Especially good for the price. I usually end up with Blanton's, but I'm not sure I could even tell a difference after the first drink.

Look at the gaps on the switches under the bumpers. They need to be close, but not too close. If too close, vibration can cause them to misfire.

Looks 3d printed.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25879

I just made Portal for only my second time since buying the game in 2012. I know it's not a great score compared to some of you guys, but I'm fired up!!!

20160827_075716 (resized).jpg

I'm probably not the right person to ask for strategy. I play for advancement in the game, and I do not focus on score. Basically, I just try to start all the modes and do the best in them that I can. One thing, though, is that I always try to complete light cycle multiball if it's running. It's way harder to complete during SOS than during multiball.

It's also very soft. I drilled mine and really didn't have much problem with wander at all, even without pilots.

Yes, there are nuts on the sides of the bracket that holds the motor. You can loosen them, then move the entire motor/disc assembly up and down in relation to the bracket. BTW, I hope you mean 1mm or 2. 2cm would be huge!

Are you planning to try running 75 ft of LED strip directly off the board I designed? If so, that's a lot of current. I'd suggest starting with a shorter run and monitoring the temperature of the transistors on the board.

I really want to be in a room when it goes completely blue and yellow with a sub rattling the walls when starting LCMB.

An estimate for the "300 LED" type strips is about 1A per 10 ft per color. So, for 75 ft, each transistor would be carrying about 7.5A. They're rated much higher than that, but that's assuming a big heatsink on them. They're just stood straight up with no heat sink, so they will not stay cool enough to meet the rated value.

An IR thermometer is a good way to measure the temperature, but your finger works too. If it burns your finger, it's too hot.

You also want to make sure your power supply is up to it. Don't try to do this using the 12V connector in your game.

The more I think about it, you'll probably hit the limit on the power input connector before the transistor limit. I have no experience with these "amplifiers", but it seems like they would do the trick, offloading the current from the adapter board.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E4JQDKE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

You could use it before any long string. Between the adapter board and the room strings would keep you from blowing fuses or burning something up on the adapter board or your game. You might still overload the amplifier if you have 75 ft hanging off it.

The most conservative, but possibly overkill would be:
adatper -> amplifier -> 25 ft -> amplifier -> 25 ft -> amplifier -> 25 ft

Depending on how the strings are physically located, you could also:

adpater -> splitter -> amplifier -> 25 ft
.............................-> amplifier -> 25 ft
.............................-> amplifier -> 25 ft

Not a good video, but here's something:

I added resistors in series with the existing stock one. That slowed the motor down so that it's still more aggressive than the black disk, but doesn't feel like it's going to break something.

The clear one. I installed it, and it was so strong, I puckered every time a ball went in there. I then played with resistor values until I found one that I liked.

Yeah, it's the PinballCenter one.

I figured that was coming. Yeah, I'll post one this weekend.

I used 2x Xicon 280-CR10-3.0-RC, 3 Ohm, 10W, wirewound resistors. They're cheap enough that I would suggest getting multiple values to try. I tried pairs of 1-5 Ohms and settled on the 3 Ohm. I added connectors and just plugged in between the motor and harness.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/280-CR10-30-RC?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhQnyZb%252bcSQhYMJQhy5oStP3USc4tFqbPCBhu0X%252bhlkSg%3d%3d

20180427_194239 (resized).jpg

I'm in for a few as well:
herg x 3

Thanks for doing this. If you do end up with any extras this time, I'd be willing to take them and make them available for the inevitable guy who wants them after the bulk order is done.

Not me, either. Both are keepers for me. I've owned TZ 20 years and Tron 6 years.

A properly done crimp is enough, but you could follow up with solder if you wanted.

I have not checked the temperature, but they are chosen to handle the current. We're only talking about 0.5A or so. If we go conservative and say 1A, over 3 ohms, that's 3W being dissipated. They're rated for 10W.

It does turn off the GI during the bonus countdown between balls.

I suggest you start a new thread and see if it can lure the Lightning Kitty followers to the new thread. That's the only way we'll know who the true king is.

I've tried to tell him that, but he insists he's going to convince me by posting a video.

Techincally, the Eli ramp lighting uses lamp, coils, and flashers to figure out which mode(s) are active. My board follows what the ramp lighting is doing, which the one exception that it lights blue when the ramps go dark.

I decided I wanted to improve the neon flickering effect on my Flynn's sign, and I found some time to write the controller code.

It does a flickering effect when turning on, then a pulsating while it stays on.

I currently have it monitoring the Flynn's Arcade insert. When that turns on, so does the sign.

Hmmm... I could if people really wanted them. I used one of my Sys11 GI OCD boards and wrote different firmware for it. The cables are a bit confusing.

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I also used one in my AMH to control my topper. The Sys11 one is basically a microcontroller, MOSFET outputs and a optocoupler input. You can do a LOT of different things with that combination. Plus, I have LED control / dimming code that I can easily modify for these kinds of uses.

The board, firmware, and mounting bracket, I can easily do. If you can handle the cabling yourself, you can order a Sys11 GI OCD from my website and request in the notes that I make it into a Flynn's controller.

Basically, it's just constant 12V in (the yellow/black pair), PWM controlled 12V output (red/black pair), and a connection to the Flynn's arcade insert (the black wires and red connector). As djb_rh says, any Stern splitter would work.

Mine does the same. If I disconnect power at either end of the cable, then reconnect, it nearly always starts up properly. That makes me think it's not due to a poor power connection, since either end works.

Based on the timing, it looks like Eli/Pinbits. Do either of these pictures ring a bell?

72328c157940e027635875b0c7af3145a6e3a5c0 (resized).jpg

b272040bc588164f345ff98f138e2e067e21725f (resized).jpg

So, that's a production Eli/Pinbits kit. The first picture is the beta Eli hardware.