(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.


By centerflank

6 years ago



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  • 468 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 days ago by snaroff
  • Topic is favorited by 142 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 395 votes
    71%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
    18%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes
    11%

(556 votes)

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#7845 1 year ago

Hi all

Quick question.. does a Tron LE use the standard LED kit that Comet sells? I realise the inserts have LEDs, but I've been led to believe Stern LEDs are all on the boards?

#7853 1 year ago

How bright should the LE fibre optics be? I've only had my LE a couple of days, but the ramps look noticeably dimmer than YouTube videos I've watched. They otherwise work as you'd expect, changing colours etc.

Don't know if my expectations are too high? Is there any setting or tweak that increases the brightness?

#7855 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

The LE’s opaque fibres aren’t as bright as the clear fibres used on some Pro’s. It could be down to whatever transmits the light at each end though.
Which videos do you mean?

Just random LE gameplay ones really - e.g.

#7857 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

No settings, but make sure the fibres are seated properly in the blue metal housings. Make sure the fibres are fully inserted and butted right up against the LEDs inside.

Thanks, will have a look. It has just been transported so that's possible. Or it could be normal and my expectations are too high.

#7858 1 year ago

Think it was just my eyes. Played a few games before bed and it was bright enough. Think possibly the reflection from an LED strip light on the ceiling was making it hard to see.

Next question I've cleaned and waxed it without stripping it down, but the loop around the back is still dirty. It's impossible to get to with the ramps on. Is there any way besides removing the ramps to get to it? e.g. removing the wooden panel at the back of the playfield? It looks pretty involved to remove the ramps

#7869 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

More
Getting ramps off Tron is one of the easier ones. It's worth it. You'll get everything looking like new under there. Just go around with a screwdriver and take out everything holding down the ramp (less than a dozen screws), lift off, done. You don't need to take them all the way out of the machine. You would have to disconnect the fibres to do that. You just need to move them out of the way.
Taking ramps off is something you should get used to anyway.

There are several switches and flashers on it too, don't they have to be disconnected as well?

#7881 1 year ago

How easy is it to remove the backboard from the game temporarily?

#7886 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Not easy, especially for an LE. I cheated and got a picture from the spare plastic set that came with my game. Looking at it now, it looks like the spare set is for a pro though as their isn't a hole in the back plastic.

Thanks. How come it's not easy? It looks like you remove the two flashers and then you have 4 actual screws to remove to get it off? Is there something I'm missing, or is it just hard to access it back there?

#7887 1 year ago

Also - does anyone know if the LED OCD board works with the Tron LE insert LEDs (i.e. the ones hardwired to the boards, fitted from the factory) ?

EDIT: Found out the answer - no, it doesn't. That's a bit gutting

#7890 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

You actually don't have to remove the flashers. Just unplug them. What you would have to remove would be the GI lights as I don't believe they have a separate plug. What makes it harder on the LE is the moving recognizer assembly would have to be removed where the pro doesn't have that feature.

Thanks. Didn't realise the Recognizer would have to be removed, didn't realise it was connected to the backboard.

Guess it's a toss up between removing the ramps and removing the backboard in difficulty terms, as I'd like to clean the rear orbit

#7901 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

The good news...on the LE, you don't really need it (imho)...Herg's boards are a must on alot of my machines...this isn't one of them....

Thanks. Not like I have a lot of choice

I have a couple of other questions for everyone...

- What is the size of the rubber band(s) that are behind the drop targets on the LE? All of the posts I've found talking about replacing Tron bands don't mention it.

- Is there a step-by-step guide for removing the ramps? Do I have to pull the flasher and switch leads up through the playfield after disconnecting them below?

Thanks.

#7917 1 year ago

Can anyone give me any tips or step by step instructions for removing the ramps from an LE?

I've had a look around the playfield and it looks like in a few places flasher wires are cabled tied on top that would make pulling the wires through difficult without snipping them. Is that a natural part of the process?

Do all flashers and switches need to be disconnected below the playfield and pulled up through? Can they not simply be unscrewed from the ramps?

Does the moving recogniser need to be removed to gain access to the disc? (and it's surrounding rubbers etc)

Thanks in advance.

#7921 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Those cable ties are on posts. Once you undo the screws holding the ramps to the posts and lift the ramp away from the top of the post, the cable tie slides up and off the post. Don’t think of them as cable ties. Think of them as a securing ring that slides over the posts.

Thanks.

Any other tips I should be aware of? Am concerned about breaking something whilst removing them.

#7934 1 year ago

On the subject of ramp lights, does anyone have a good photo (or can take one) of the fibre optics going into the boards on the LE version? I'd like to compare how mine is routed.

1 week later
#7952 1 year ago

I'm probably being a bit simple but I don't have that white board behind my translite, I just have a (rather nondescript) office style light bar that runs across the middle behind it that illuminates the whole thing. My translite ccomes off to reveal all of the electronics directly behind. I have an LE if it matters.

How do you get a setup where you've got individual LEDs and that awesome LED strip?

#7954 1 year ago

Thanks very much

#7973 1 year ago

Going to take the ramps off my LE soon to clean & wax around the back of the playfield where I can't easily reach.

Was debating about flame polishing the ramps while I have them off. They're not bad, but some of the videos I've seen make it look like they can end up looking better than new.

Having never done it before, is this a bad idea? Can anyone tell me if they've flame polished Tron ramps without any ill effects like warping?

I assume I would definitely be best advised to remove all of the LE fibre optics, flashers, switches, etc?

#7975 1 year ago

Thanks. No offence taken

I'm pretty new to pinballs, bought my first one (TZ) late last year.

I've been doing little bits of tinkering here and there, have rebuilt a slingshot on a friend's Funhouse and rebuilt the TZ clock, etc.

I've been reading up on the right way to do the ramps (i.e. making them very clean, etc). You're right that I should try it on a sacrificial ramp first, so will do that.

2 weeks later
#8022 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me if Tron LE has LED flashers or not? I know it has insert LEDs, and incandescent GI, but unsure about flashers.

I feintly recall seeing a gameplay video where in one of the modes the two blue backpanel flashers faded up and down which would suggest that they weren't LEDs (unless things have moved on since the days of Bally/Williams where you need LED/GI OCD boards?)

Getting to the flasher bulbs is unnecessarily complicated for some reason on this pin (maybe all Stern pins) so would be useful to me if someone could simply tell me if they are LEDs on the LE or not.

#8024 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I thought all versions of Tron only came with incandescents, period.

Tron LE has LEDs for the inserts, soldered on LE-specific boards (there's probably a technical word for that).

The previous owner of my pin changed the GI to LEDs, and possibly the flashers too, but I was hoping someone could tell me definitively if it was JUST the inserts that were LEDs on Tron LE.

#8026 1 year ago

Thanks. Harder to replace as in availability? Or physical access to replace?

#8041 1 year ago

I assume no one getting these replacement discs are worried about shattered plastics or whatever? I've heard it throws the ball out with quite considerable ferocity.

#8067 1 year ago

Would you consider shipping to the UK?

I'd like to have a full kit with bracket (whatever the plug and play solution is) please

#8077 1 year ago

Anyone got any tips for safely removing the fibre optics on the LE? Or indeed any gotchas outside of taking lots of photos on removing the ramps as a whole?

The fibre optics look like they are held in place by tiny set screws - which I'm fairly certain I don't have an allen key small enough to fit.

#8080 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Yes, they are tiny allen head screws but they are most likely finger tight as they shouldn't be tighten to much. In fact if they are more than finger tight it's probably to tight.
Loosen the two for each light box and gently pull the tube out. Then unclip all the switch and flasher harness that go to the ramps and push the connectors through the hole in the PF. Lower PF and take out the screws and gently pull up. They should come out pretty easily at that point. The Fiber optic tubes are held on by zip ties on the top.

Thanks.

I think I've got Cliffy ramp protectors already installed (prior to me buying). Both ramps have them. Anything I should know about them? I guess they come off with the ramps?

Also - kit looking good

#8108 1 year ago

Aww I didn't get a PM

#8113 1 year ago

My Tron LE has a black apron (with the windows for flashers), others LEs I've seen have a chrome apron. Was this an option when it came to buying it? Where can I source a chrome one from?

#8115 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

hooked (hookedonpinball.com) has chrome aprons or at least he did.

Thanks. Do you know if chrome aprons were ever a OEM thing or has anyone with a chrome apron bought it as a mod?

#8117 1 year ago

Wow.. hadn't heard of that before, Googled it and found your other thread.. it looks pretty impressive. Any idea on timescales or cost for it?

#8122 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

4-5 weeks. Not sure of cost yet. I'm only doing a batch of ten. They will definitely be more than my standard ones, but not sure by how much yet. Chrome guys are a flakey bunch. Must be the fumes.

Have PM'd you, but please can you put me down for one of these, pending final price.

Has anyone got any photos of their Tron with a Comet LED kit fitted? I don't mean a machine with Comet bulbs, I mean someone who has purchased their kit for the game and installed it. I'm mainly interested in what they've gone with for the GI. There is one photo on the website but would prefer some end user photos if at all possible.

Thanks in advance

#8132 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Good and bad news:
Good - All US paid for Portal kits/lights have been shipped as of noon today.
Bad (actually really bad) - I got a quote to send one of these kits overseas (to the UK) and it was $85! So, those that are overseas, if you want one I'm more than willing to pack and ship it for you but I really don't think it's worth it to do so. They aren't hard to make if you can soldier and the parts aren't to terribly expensive. Maybe someone in that part of the world would want to make these as well and save you all some serious money. I'm more than happy to help by providing guidance on how to make them but most of that is already posted earlier.
I'm shipping the kits with the brackets in 2x18 tubes that weigh less than 1 pound. Light kits only went in a padded envelope.

Ouch! I'm guessing that must be the volumetric weight causing that.

I'm still keen. I've bought quite a lot of pinball stuff from America (where all the cool stuff seems to be) before where sadly the cost of shipping has been more than the value of the order, so not that surprised to be honest. I've got a friend who might be going to Houston soon(ish), will find out when he's going as he might be able to get it shipped to him and bring it back in his luggage.

1 week later
#8164 1 year ago

Random question.. going to take the ramps off soon, and possibly the fibre optics off the ramps. I vaguely recall someone posting on here about doing something about the switch screws/nuts where the fibre optic wire goes underneath - to reduce the bend it has to make. I can't for the life of me find it now though. Anyone remember seeing it or am I going mad?

#8172 1 year ago

Two diametrically opposed games.

#8175 1 year ago

I have both. They are as different as it gets really. In my humble opinion Tron is primarily a fun and fast paced game that is pretty accessible to players of all skill levels (a generous ball save, for starters). You can get light cycle multiballs etc within almost no time at all playing it.

TZ on the other hand takes no prisoners. Your ball went into the pops after you got the skill shot and got blasted down the left outlane? That's a shame.

TZ is a hard game, but it rewards careful consideration of your shots, layering bonuses, etc.

I get fairly consistent scores on Tron (nothing amazing), but I could and have had many games of TZ where I struggle to get 100 million without feeling like I've done anything particularly wrong.

#8186 1 year ago

Anyone have a handy GI bulb guide?

Previously I was wondering to myself whether my LE ramp fiber optics were faulty, because they were quite dim. I have no reason to believe they have ever been removed from the game (the rubbers are OEM, etc) so it doesn't seem likely that they are not butted right up against the LEDs under the playfield. I now think, having read elsewhere on here, that my GI is simply too bright in places. When the GI goes off during the ball drain bonus sequence the ramps appear much brighter.

The previous owner fitted Comet LEDs everywhere, including the flashers (LE has LED inserts from the factory). They look like they are 2 SMDs clear everywhere, I can't see any frosted bulbs.

I'm wondering whether or not I would be better off with 1 SMD bulbs from the slingshots upwards? I'm tempted to buy a Comet LED kit but have been advised by them that they use 2 SMDs too on the basis that "people changing from incandescents expect it to be brighter". The Pro, not having fiber optics as standard, and with the aftermarket ones being (as I understand it) brighter than the LE ones are anyway - probably isn't as affected.

Thoughts?

Quoted from 85vett:

Not necessary. The factory fiber optics will just about be molded to the shape they are in now. Just loosen the set screws (they should just be finger tight) and pull them out.

Sorry I should've been clear - I didn't mean removing the fiber optics from the bottom of the playfield, I mean where it runs underneath the switch on the left hand side above the playfield - it has to dip quite a bit to get under the nut. It's not the end of the world but thought if there was a quick fix I could do it while the ramps were off.

#8198 1 year ago

Thanks all

I'd rather not change the light tubes on the LE - that's a bit drastic for me! Will look into a bit dimmer LEDs towards the back of the machine.

That top photo by 85vett reminds me I need to stop procrastinating and change all the rubbers on mine for translucent silicon. I've had the order I made with Titan Pinball sat waiting for weeks.

Quoted from weaverj:

my GI is 1SMD frosted ice blue; looks sick.

Nice. I think that's what I'm going to go with.

Do people typically go with orange (or yellow?) LEDs for the left slingshot, the plastic below it and the one on the left (where the drop targets would be on a LE) or just warm white?

Also as mentioned before - is there a list of GI bulbs and their locations anywhere, or do I need to do it by hand?

#8211 1 year ago

Finally got around to removing the ramps from my machine to clean & wax the orbits. Found it quite intimidating, first time I've ever removed ramps.

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ED60AD1B-A1D0-4316-84AD-58B8FA25FEBD (resized).jpeg

I think I've asked this before, but I'm replacing all the rubbers with Titan translucent silicone ones. How do I get access to the ones surrounding the disc? Do I need to remove the moving recogniser support bar? (LE). If so, how is this done?

My Recogniser isn't quite aligned centrally so I wouldn't mind tweaking it. How does it adjust?

Thanks in advance.

#8217 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

You need to remove that plastic that is below the recognizer bar. It's just 2 nuts and then it comes off. While you are that deep you really should remove all the plastics. Do them one at a time if you aren't comfortable with reassembly. Take some novius 1 (or other mild cleaning detergent) to the back of them. You'll be surprised with how dirty they can get as well as under them. You'll have to remove that big plastic to the left of the recognizer anyways to clean the quorra lane.
As for the recognizer. On the LE it's supposed to move back and forth. Your comment about it being off center makes it sound like it doesn't move during the game, is that the case? If so, you have an issue.

Thanks.

I managed to get access to the rubbers around the disc by removing that piece you suggest.

Also, the Recogniser does move side to side during gameplay, so it being off centre was simply just where it happened to be when I switched it off.

Incidentally could you tell me whether or not the metal bar should rest on top of the plastic bit below it, or should it be floating above it? Mine doesn't seem to have any trouble going side to side, but it looks like it makes contact with the plastic.

#8245 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

No, it shouldn't hit the plastic. It should be about a quarter of an inch above it. You could look at tightening the mounting bolts but outside of that not sure how you would adjust it's height. May be worth just putting a felt strip under it to keep it from scratching your plastics.

This is what I've ended up doing.

As it transpires I've got a full florescent plastic protector set on my Tron, fitted by the previous owner. I didn't realise it wasn't standard.

Basically, the bit of plastic that sits below the Recogniser is actually two separate bits of plastic on mine. On top of that I have a lit Recogniser mod and the wire from that was attached to the bar with a cable tie wrapped around the bar. All together this meant the bar was grazing the plastic.

I had a look at the mount for the whole assembly and it's on solidly. The bar on mine can be moved up by hand - should it do this? Should it be rigidly fixed so you can't move it at all upwards by hand?
I couldn't see any obvious way of raising it so that it stays in a higher position, if that makes sense.

I've ended up cutting off the cable tie and attaching the cable to the bar using a felt strip wrapped around the bar.

#8252 1 year ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

The left ramp has a small break at the entrance. I think I could cover it with a cliffy but I can't seem to find them in stock. I would like to get the entire cliffy set for it.

Speak to cliffy directly. I bought my arcade scoop and even some universal slot protectors from him. Took a little bit of time but was reassured that they were genuine etc.

#8270 1 year ago

Quick one - do you guys go with frosted bulbs everywhere in the GI? (those that have changed to LEDs)

#8273 1 year ago

Thanks both

#8275 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Yes, frosted for GI.
Replaced the clears with frosted in MET Pro too (as part of the Total Lightshow installation).

All of the ones in mine currently - fitted by the previous owner - are clear, even the ones I can see directly and in reflection in the mirror blades, as well as the ones in the playfield backboard. They're all Comet LEDs though, which is something I suppose.

I've come to the conclusion that this is the reason my LE ramp lights are washed out a bit during gameplay. During the bonus sequence (when the GI is off) they are bright and vibrant, so I know they are connected up right. I think the GI is overpowering it a bit.

I've bought several sets of frosted 1 and 2 SMD bulbs from Comet, in sunlight, natural and ice blue. Will probably use your advice of not using 2 SMD above the slings. Hopefully I will see an improvement.

#8286 1 year ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Anyone running ice blue lighting from Comet for GI in their machine? The machine I bought has 5 different types of bulbs "to get it just right" and I am thinking of swapping it out to either frosted cool or ice blue.

This is exactly the same problem I had with my Tron

85vett's machine is how I'm hoping mine will look after I switch out the bulbs. I'm assuming those are natural or sunlight white on the left slingshot?

#8288 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Yes, the left sling area are the sunlight bulbs from comet. All are frosted bulbs.

Nice. So just the left in sunlight, the rest are ice blue frosted? What do you use in the back panel if you don't mind me asking? 1 SMD or 2 SMD?

3 weeks later
#8312 12 months ago

They could do that with Daft Punk Multiball though...

Perhaps they see those audio callouts as added value for the LE?

#8314 12 months ago

I don't disagree that it's silly that it's not included, just postulating why Stern might've thought to remove it as a "look what you get with an LE" upsell rather than something legitimately value-add like the fiber optics.

1 week later
#8361 11 months ago

Does anyone by chance have any installation photos for the Stern target splints for this (and other) games?

The Quorra target is as we all know susceptible to sideways movement, so I bought some splints from Mezelmods. They kindly pointed me in the direction of some textual instructions (thanks to 85vett) but I'm struggling to visualise it...

Was quietly hoping someone might have photos to correspond to the instructions. Long shot I know.

The instructions are here: https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202025015-Stern-Stand-Up-Target-Splints but the photos only show the finished install

#8365 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Does this help? I have a few photos on there.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038
These were my own design but I'd guess they should work in a similar way so should attach in the same way.

Thanks, that's helpful.

#8366 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Does anyone by chance have any installation photos for the Stern target splints for this (and other) games?
The Quorra target is as we all know susceptible to sideways movement, so I bought some splints from Mezelmods. They kindly pointed me in the direction of some textual instructions (thanks to 85vett) but I'm struggling to visualise it...
Was quietly hoping someone might have photos to correspond to the instructions. Long shot I know.
The instructions are here: https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202025015-Stern-Stand-Up-Target-Splints but the photos only show the finished install

Replying to myself...

Turns out this was nowhere near as complicated as I thought it would be. Should've probably had a go at it before asking for photos really. I got the L bracket wrong the first time I tried to reinstall it, but after that it was plain sailing. They work really well, I suddenly find myself able to get the Quorra shot fairly consistently, even though my target wasn't really way off centre.. strange that.

Now.. balls.. I recently took the ramps off my Tron LE because the orbit around the back had a black ball trail going around it. The black trail came off really easily with isopropyl alcohol, so it wasn't a regular trail I guess. When I fitted the splints yesterday I took the balls out of the pin and noticed that all 4 of them had black marks on them. The marks came off with a cloth, but I guess these are the source of black trails? Is this all because of the black rubber spinning disc? Is there any solution besides fitting a clear disc? (I hear it is pretty violent, I don't want to risk having balls destroying plastics)

#8368 11 months ago

Damn.

I've heard some horror stories about the clear disc But at the same time I really don't want to have to endlessly clean the playfield, and particularly take off the ramps to get to the orbits

Anyone have any videos of gameplay with the clear disc?

#8373 11 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

The clear disc really is the way to go. Yes, the first 50-100 plays are an adventure, as the clear disc will put some wicked speed and spin on the ball, but then it settles down to be just perfect. Best of all is the ball trails all stop. The clear disc with Titan silicone rubbers keep the game clean and playing fast!

I replaced all of the rubbers with Titan clear silicone, so that has cut down on the dirt a bit but the fact the balls are ending up with black rubber on them means they must be depositing it all over the place

Will have a look at herg's resistor mod (thanks kickabit) as a solution. I don't get the chance to play mine enough to have to wait 50+ games before it stops firing it out like a bullet.

#8379 11 months ago

Apocryphal but I found the Quorra shot much easier after I fitted (Mezelmods) splints. Got it several times in the first game I played afterwards. My target wasn't leaning a huge amount but enough to catch the ball if it rolled down from that area. I guess psychologically it was affecting my play... or it could have just been a fluke.

It's a cheap quality of life fix that's worth doing in my opinion.

#8381 11 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Do you have any pictures of this installed on the pin??

This is what the Mezelmods ones look like: https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202025015-Stern-Stand-Up-Target-Splints

1 week later
#8404 11 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

After years of reading people post about the clear disc I finally made the plunge last night! Installed the disc along with a couple 3 ohm resistors to slow the motor down a bit (thanks for the info herg) and it's amazing. Much more lively than stock and yet not crazy enough where I am worried about stuff breaking.

So... how easy is it to create the herg resistor mod for the motor? I'm assuming it's not something I can buy off the shelf? I'm completely clueless

#8407 11 months ago

Ok thanks. I have none of the stuff required unfortunately Guess it could be an excuse to give it a try.

#8412 11 months ago

There is a Recogniser test in the game menu, does it behave properly in that? (seeing left as left, right as right, etc). Will try and get a video of my LE in a bit.

Your disc plastic protector is mounted wrong by the way, it is supposed to be underneath the bit that comes with the game, yours is mounted on top of it so it's not protecting anything.

#8414 11 months ago
Quoted from Hasi:

hi 85vet,
thx 4 for reply!
I reseated the boards but this didn't helped. The problems are all over the other inserts too, not just Flynn. During a game the Shoot Again lights up always.
I watched videos from other LEs and some have a synced recognizer, others not. I hope a first LE owner can help here how it goes out of the box.

I don't know how useful this video will be.. my Recogniser isn't always synced with the three lights, though I can't really see how it could be since the lights change far faster than the motor moves..

#8416 11 months ago

It might be that it's synced during certain modes? I dunno. My video was taken just as I started a game, before launching a ball.

#8419 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Mine isn’t even remotely synced. I never thought it was supposed to be.
I’ve just watched it’s behaviour and the mech always lags behind the lights. When it is a full cycle out the mech seems to wait for the light to catch up.

Nor did I to be honest. As said I can't see how it could possibly stay synced as the lights change fairly quickly and the motor is not fast.

#8426 11 months ago

For what it's worth I bought the Mezel ones and they work perfectly. I made the mistake of only ordering 2 of the smaller ones and 1 of the 2-piece one, when actually you need 3 of the small ones and 1 of the 2-piece ones.

#8428 11 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Great info and heads up thank you.
Do you need another small one then? If so I can add an extra to my order and fire it to you via Royal Mail once it gets here.

I do need another small one yeah, that would be very kind of you

I mistakenly thought it was just "Z" and "U" (the common ones to go off centre at the ramp entrance), but you can put one on "E" as well. "S" uses the 2 piece one.

#8433 11 months ago

As mod costs go, particularly when you think about the quality of life improvement, these are great value. I swear I was getting more Quorra shots after installing these just from the psychosomatic effect of knowing the standup target was straight

#8437 11 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Definitely Quorra. He’s talking about the U target being straight up and not leaning to the right, blocking the shot.

Yup exactly. My "U" target sway was never particularly bad but just knowing it's not affecting that shot anymore seems to help me make it.

#8440 11 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

A target leaning just a couple of millimetres can make the world of difference to a shot, especially a shot that’s already tight.
What games do you own?

Only Tron LE and Twilight Zone at the moment. Looking for an Addams.

#8442 11 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

monkeyboypaul is there any chance you could look at your Ironman and TWD and gauge if they will need single piece splint or 2 piece splint.
I am away from home now for a week so can’t take a look on mine, would be handy to know as I’m going to order a few for each machine.
Thank you in advance

Mezel has some info here - https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004028673-Which-Target-Splint-do-I-need- - but it doesn't tell you how many of each.

TWD isn't listed, but I don't know if that's because it can't use them due to the brackets (see the guidance on that page).

#8448 11 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

do you need to unsolder/resolder to install these?

No. The target needs to be removed from the playfield and then the splint simply fits over it, then you reinstall.

I thought it would be difficult and was somewhat intimidated by it - but once you've done one you will do subsequent ones in a couple of minutes.

#8462 11 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Has anyone installed the blue disc and the clear disc to see the difference?
So far my blue one will hold the ball for a bit, then throw it out, yes it goes backspin crazy, but not as wildly as the clear sounds... Or do I keep my playfield waxed a little too good?

Quoting this from 2 years ago, as I couldn't find a definitive answer...

Has anyone tested the clear and blue disc back to back, or has the blue disc to comment on how crazy the spin & power is? The clear is infamous for being.. dramatic.. I'm wondering if the blue is a decent halfway house between boring black and crazy clear.

I bought a clear rubber set from Pinball Center but don't have a spare disc to put it on (nowhere in EU seems to sell them), so once I switch it out that's it... and I'm getting cold feet about the clear.

Any videos that anyone could provide would be a bonus

#8465 11 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I recently installed my clear disc and it was CRAZY. I toned it down just a tad with the resistor trick posted earlier and it's perfect for me. Still crazy spin but I swore something was going to break without reducing the speed of the motor.

Ughhh see it's stuff like this that gives me pause for thought. What happened with yours then? Hitting glass?

#8470 11 months ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Added some ice blue LEDs from comet, blends in very nicely with this game...not as intense in person as the picture shows (I hate rainbow puke looking PFs). It has a mix of warm (yellow plastic), ice blue (blue plastic and ramps), and natural white for the rest. [quoted image]

Very nice. Ice Blue does indeed look perfect on Tron.

Just FYI though - you've installed the Recogniser plastic protector above the plastic it's designed to protect.

#8484 11 months ago
Quoted from bjorg:

Here's a pic of the blue pads next to the disc.
[quoted image]

Has anyone else done this mod? I bought a pair of blue pads thinking that the black ones that are already there are just stuck on, but it seems that they're attached somehow? I didn't want to pull on them too hard in case they broke...

#8498 10 months ago

FA60E9B8-7B99-400E-A7EF-FC0B88C726BA.gif

2 weeks later
#8506 10 months ago

So painfully expensive, but so cool.

#8511 10 months ago

Don't get me wrong, I love it. Mine came with one already fitted and if it hadn't I would've bought one. It's that good that it's omission is noteworthy.

I do however think that objectively a lot of money. That other mods that do less cost the same or more doesn't change that, although it does establish that the market is willing to bear these prices.

That being said, in the world of mods it is worth the money, if that makes sense (eg relative to a $475 slot machine for TZ that's a resprayed pencil sharpener)

4 weeks later
#8561 9 months ago

I have never seen illuminated leg protectors before

1 week later
-1
#8612 9 months ago

Yeah, if Pros got Daft Punk what really is left? Eli's mod is already pretty much as good as the LE fibre optics, and Pros actually have some straight up benefits (eg you can use an LED OCD board on them)

#8626 9 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Has anyone tried to get rgb speaker lights with the music cue controller to see if you could get the lights to change along with the ramps depending on the song for the mode? Wondering if it would be worth the investment purely in the sense of functionality.

That would be awesome, but I've never heard of it done.

Eli's fibre mod syncs with the game doesn't it? If so I presume it must be possible...?

1 week later
#8654 8 months ago

There should be foam there already I think, a blue square from memory?

Also j85m did anything happen with that splint order from Mezel in the end?

#8675 8 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

So who wants stand up target Splints from Mezel and how many of which type?

Annoyingly I only need one. I ordered some before for Tron but neglected to count how many I actually needed.

I was hoping to get one from someone else's order really as it makes no sense at all for me to order just one.

#8709 8 months ago

Ramps sadly appear to be unobtainium now. Don't know if/when they were discontinued but the usual suspects haven't had any stock for a while. Marco sold the last LE one they had recently.

Wonder if there's any mileage in speaking to Stern directly?

#8727 8 months ago
Quoted from Riffbear:

I love LE.
[quoted image]

Now that's cool. I assume you've wired up some kind of headphone jack and independent volume control system to it?

#8756 8 months ago

Lol for a moment I thought you meant the little arcade cabinet that comes with the Tron pin, that many replace with the interactive one.

#8773 8 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

That disc is a game changer. I highly recommend the resistor trick when adding it. Still get the crazy spin and extra action but loses some of the "oh crap that's going to break stuff" feeling.

Not sure you will get what you are after with those coin mechs. The problem is they aren't smooth and are grained so it will never look real shiny. In order to get that same look you will need to make them smooth and then plate them.

Shot in the dark but do you know anyone who makes that resistor as a plug and play product? I've had the clear disc boxed up for a while now, too scared to fit it after hearing how violent it is.

2 weeks later
#8802 7 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Ditch the big sling spot lights and replace with under plastic slingspots. It really opens up the lower pf.
What’s below your recogniser? (Purple/pink in your pic)
[quoted image]
Does anyone know if the ramps fibre optics can be disconnected underneath and remain zip tied to the ramps? I want to replace my ramp flaps but don’t really want to remove the lights if it can be helped.
if I don’t have to.

Yes, you can remove the ramps completely without touching the zip ties for the fibre optics. Depending on how far you want to pull the ramps out of the game you might not even need to disconnect the flashlamps & switches.

1 month later
#8825 6 months ago

I guarantee no one is sending royalty free generic music to these guys to mix in, so asking people to indemnify them against copyright action seems a bit hollow?

Who isn't going to be sending Daft Punk music/remixes to them for this game?

#8826 6 months ago

I've recently acquired one of DKpinballs Flynn signs, but it didn't come with any instructions to fit it. Does anyone have a copy of them? Thanks.

#8827 6 months ago

Anyone? The wires that come with it are very long which makes me think it routes to the back of the playfield (or the backbox?). The mod has a long cable with a 2 pin connector on the end, which plugs into a shorter adaptor that has a 4 pin (or maybe 3) female connector. The mod doesn't have croc clips so I don't know how it is supposed to connect to GI, assuming it is supposed to?

If anyone already has one installed and can show photos of the bottom of their playfield, or better still a PDF/scan of the original instructions, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

#8830 6 months ago
Quoted from athenspin:

I bought my game modded, I’m assuming your talking about the lit Flynn sign next to the Flynn scoop. I don’t have instructions, but I’ll pop the hood on my game this evening and post pics that show how it’s wired.

Yes that's right. The one that sits on the plastic to the right of the arcade cabinet.

Thanks!

#8832 6 months ago

Thanks very much. That helps a great deal. And no that board isn't factory. Nice to have though!

1 week later
#8844 5 months ago

When I bought my Tron LE the two light cycles were (and still are) connected to the GI on the backboard using crocodile clips. I'm going to be fitting a power tap this weekend to power a Flynn sign, and probably some other mods too. I would like to rewire these cycles to connect using 3-pin Molex connectors to this power tap (which is connected to the aux power connection).

I assume these cycles should be wired for 5v instead of 12v? They seem to be reasonably bright already using whatever the GI voltage is..

#8866 5 months ago

Can anyone make me up one of those resistors that go on the motor loom to slow down the disc? I'm keen to use the clear disc to stop the balls crudding up the playfield with black rubber, but I don't want it smashing into things.

I don't have the skills to make it Let me know how much it'll cost me including shipping to UK.

Thanks in advance!

#8868 5 months ago

I've heard some horror stories and I've got a few mods that are either very expensive (arcade for one) or are essentially irreplaceable (Flynn sign). I'd love the disc to be more intense but not at the cost of smashing the machine up.

I'd like to try the resistor at first to at least get a sense of it. A variable one would be fantastic.

#8870 5 months ago

A Flynn topper in neon would be amazing.

#8875 5 months ago

Could the insane spin not damage the playfield surface too? Any imperfection in the ball could dig in, couldn't it? Or am I overthinking it?

3 weeks later
#8917 4 months ago

Goes off with disc war multiball jackpots too. But yeah, test menu is easiest

#8919 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks guys. As expected it wasn't working but I fixed it. I also installed the clear disc rubber finally from Europe.... Wow. Big difference and so far not too top crazy but crazy enough.

Damn, you're making me want to install mine. I've had it for months but too scared to use it. My OEM black disc, which I cleaned not that long ago, is alright but nothing special really and it leaves crud on the balls which in turn deposit it around the playfield particularly the loop around the back which isn't easy to clean without taking off the ramps.

Did you just peel off the black disc and apply with the adhesive that it comes with?

#8923 4 months ago
Quoted from insx:

Tron is my first Stern and I did what a lot of new Stern owners seem to do and pulled the playfield off the end of the rail and dropped it into the cab. Fortunately, everything seems to be working still.

Welcome to the club.

(The pulling the playfield off the rails club, thinking the resistance you feel is like a B/W pin at the lock position. Terrible design by Stern)

#8927 4 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

First thing I did to my TRON when I got it last year was install the full support slide rails.....can't stand those posts Stern used for several years!!!

Full support slide rails? What's that?

#8943 4 months ago

I wish there was a halfway house between the clear and black. I don't want to trash my Tron LE with supersonic balls or even just wear the playfield down with insane spin, but I would like to do away with the black crap around the orbits...

74523D42-985D-4F8A-B1CD-C14E877893A4 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#9000 4 months ago

If you're not playing Tron loud enough that you don't hear the motor, you're not doing it right.

1 month later
#9063 3 months ago

Can just push it down. I removed the flasher though to run the wire down the hole.

#9066 86 days ago
Quoted from brett:

Great job on the Flynn sign Lior. It looks fantastic![quoted image]

Err.. where can I buy this please?

4 weeks later
#9130 58 days ago
Quoted from J85M:

LE’s have incandescent GI & flashers including those under the disc and LED inserts all white LED boards, I have been considering asking vireland if he could maybe make some of his insert gels for the LE but have no idea what the level of interest would be?

Insert gels? I might be interested if I knew what it was.

Not only are the LED boards unobtanium they also stop you using LED OCD, which is annoying. I didn't know that before I bought my LE. I'm not as affected by the digital on/off of LEDs, but even so..

#9134 58 days ago
Quoted from J85M:

If this link works it should take you to his insert gel page

What link? lol Is this some sort of test?

#9137 58 days ago
Quoted from J85M:

Yes and since you have passed I have now added the link, well done

Cheers. I'm still not sure what "insert gels" are, though. That link goes to some guy called Pin Monk, but the person you said creates them is vireland ? What are insert gels?

#9146 54 days ago

I'd recommend the Pinbits (I think?) plastic protector set too. Not too expensive but finishes it off nicely.

#9150 54 days ago

Is changing the disc the only solution to black crud being left everywhere?

Looking back through my photos I took the ramps off my Tron (LE) back in August 2018. Nearly a year later and I have another black streak around the back, despite the fact the game barely gets played. I also cleaned and waxed the playfield yesterday and the cloth I used ended up with a black film over most of it. None of my other pins have this problem.

I have a clear disc that I bought a while back that I can fit, but I'm scared to because of stories of violent ejections. I have several mods that are expensive or irreplaceable.

This is what it looked like last year, I'd say it's fairly similar now...

IMG_2208 (resized).jpeg

#9154 54 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Short answer is: clear disc, as well as replacing rubber rings/posts with Titan Silicone rings.
Don't be afraid of the clear disc, it calms down to a nice level of havoc within 30-40 plays. I can't now imagine mine without it, as the effect it has on the ball is incredible. I have had it shoot the ball out with such spin to make the Quorra shot, the Gem shot, even the left ramp...which has only happened once and blew my mind!! I love it!!!

Already got clear Titans everywhere. Guess I just have to bite the bullet and try the disc and see how I get on.

Did you strip off the black disc and reuse the plastic disc, or buy a new one?

#9165 52 days ago

Yup I did see the resistor mod, but I don't have the skills to make them up myself.

#9167 51 days ago

An original DK pinball Flynns sign.
The mini arcade (ok that's replaceable but it's still $300+)
The ramps - now unobtainium.

1 week later
#9196 42 days ago

Can anyone make me up the resistors that will reduce the power of the motor? A potentiometer setup would be awesome if that's even possible. It's beyond my skills electrically and I don't want to risk running the clear disc without it, at least initially.

Happy to pay obviously.

#9206 39 days ago
Quoted from koops:

How cow, I really think you are blowing out of proportion what the clear disc actually does. Its not like your adding dejp raptor pit kick backs all over the playfield. Its fun and add's torque to the ball but its not breaking anything anytime soon.
It is so unlikely to break something id put a bet on it and i'm someone that loves keeping my machines pristine.
You are MORE likely to break something doing a flipper rebuild and having strong flippers.
If you are that scared I'd say disable the spinner in its entirety or just wait until you play it in someone else's machine.

I don't think it's unreasonable to be apprehensive about installing this on a Tron LE when there are reports of the ball being fired out so hard that it gets stuck UNDER slingshots, goes down the trough and comes back out again, smacks bulbs out of the spotilights, etc.

Thanks for the offer 85vett - might take you up on it even if it means that once I've got a feel for it and am happy with it I end up removing the resistors.

#9208 39 days ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I'm holding back on putting the clear on for this very reason. I just dropped 10k on a nice low used HUO LE, last thing I want to do is smash the shit out of its guts

The major downside of the black disc isn't so much the power of it, it's the crud it leaves all over the playfield and balls, which gets deposited around the loop at the back and is difficult to get to without removing the ramps.

#9241 34 days ago

Not sure why you'd do that on an LE personally, but at least you kept the original parts.

Looks like a nice room/house though

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