Just acquired a Tron Pro, which has been modded with diffusing fiber optics tubes on the ramps. Unfortunately the control unit is a simple RGB led source with a remote control, so while it does look nice, it does not respond to gameplay.

I'm therefore trying to figure out where to get an Eli kit or equivalent, but can't find any. Would you know by any chance if there is an alternate option (or better, an available kit somewhere) ?

Thanks

With regards to Pinduino I've looked at it in details. While the effects are neat, I'm not a big fan of the ledstrip mounting, as they are too visible when off. I tried to look for ledstrip encased into a silicone diffuser, so you wouldn't see the leds (just the lights), but could not find any.

So I much prefer the 'fiber optics' look and i'm fairly certain it's possible to design a light source emitter for diffusing fiber optics which would be driven by Arduino. After all, the source is can be considered as a ledstrip of 1 LED. If I don't find an alternative, that's probably the route I'll take

Regards

ArcadeBar As you point out, not looking good in "off" is probably not a big deal, I was more concerned about seeing the ledstrips while playing, as if not integrated properly this can be very disturbing. But your idea of frosted glass spray is super cool, and indeed in the video this looks quite neat. I would welcome a link, as I need to find an equivalent reference here in France.

Regards

Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone provide me with a link in Europe for the plastic spinning disc (sold by Pinball Life) ?
Alternatively, as I have access to a CO2 laser cutter, what material is used and what thickness is this part ? Anyone could produce a scan at scale of this part ?

I would also be interested into the glowing plunger mod, is this something that is readily available somewhere ? Any pointer ?

Thanks and regards

Would anyone have full screen pre-recorded video of Tron Arcade games ? I'm trying to rebuild the Arcade mod (so far so good, I figured out most of it), but need the video content.

I could use MAME to record it though, but in case somebody has it lying around

Cheers

Good morning,

Would anyone know what material is the rubber disc made of, more specifically the transluscent white rubber disc sold by PinballCenter in Germany. I have mounted one, but I ruined the original double side tape (don't ask...). I replaced it with another double side tape (3M 300LSE based), but the disc simply does not stick (well it does, but it does not stay put for very long...). So I'd like to use some kind of super glue, but the first one I used did not glue ANYTHING (I could have applied water for that matter.

For that matter, if I want to restart from scratch, what solvent would you recommend to clean up the plastic disc and remove all glue residue ?

Thanks and regards

Yes he did not respond to me either. Which is why I started to look into how to recreate something similar. Might not be as advanced, but at least I'll have something (baseline is a PinShield, a set of four 3W fiber optic led diffuser, and of course fiber optics wires for the ramps).

Greetings,

Working in a DIY mod for Tron, and would like to know where I could find a male connector I could use to get the flashers signal from beneath the spinning disc.

Picture attached of the flasher

Cheers

20201207_224531 (resized).jpg

Custom Tron mod I designed for the spinning disc

Three mode of operations:
- disc idle
- spinning disc in one direction
- spinning disc in another direction

I bet no one knew the disc could spin clockwise and counter clockwise

Uses a small arduino to control the led ring

[EDIT] Electronics design for the arduino system based on BigLebowski PinShield, ring holder under playfield on motor disc designed by me (PLA 3D Print), Arduino code using WS2812FX library and some custom simple detection scheme reading GPIOs to trigger LED patterns

Didn't know that, my Tron had four red flashers beneath the disc, so it never changed color.

Oh yes. But I don't have any comparison point, so I was wondering if this was expected. Besides changing the motor, any option to reduce noise ?

International reference tend to vary, and I found this webpage:
https://3-en-un.fr/solutions

Would you mind let me know which one seems the closest to what you used ?

Thanks

Good morning, a few questions on a SAM board schematics:

- Would anyone have electronic schematics of the CPU board ? Specifically looking for the J9 connecteur, ie what it does. I'm pretty sure it's used to output control signals for the lamps/inserts/coils, and I'd like to get the schematics before I hook up a logic analyzer to it

[EDIT] and would welcome if anyone has the clock speed of this interface, hopefully it's lower than 20MHz

- anyone with a Tron LE would care to take a close up picture of the Fiber optic generator ? In the pinball manual, it's on page 107, and it's part number is 511-6927-01. But since it's a Stern PN, I can't figure out exactly what supplier this is
- Likewise, looking at the schematics, the fiber optic generator seems to be a 5V RGB LED, ground driven (ie power is always high, and RGB signal are driven through MOSFETs between 0V and 5V), but it seems color for both ramps is identical, although there is a strobe signal which presumably is used to control on/off status of the ramp fiber cables, can anyone with an LE confirm this is the case ?

Reason I'm asking: i'm trying to find the easiest solution to rebuild a game controlled fiber optic generator. I currently have one setup (which is precisely as above, 5V and three RGB lines), but it's driven by an external unit with no gameplay interaction. My first option was to use a PinLightShield to detect inserts status and drive it, but I've played the virtual version of Tron and it seems color change are far more subtle and depending on the mode, hence why I'm exploring other options.

I actually kind of wonder if by any chance the HW (mosfets and the like - this is connected to J2 and J3) along with the code to control the ramp led is also present in the Pro code, they just did not do the cabling.

Thanks !

I would have three questions:

- I recall a post from someone stating that he replaced the flasher for the Blue Tron bumper when using this mod (https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p5/Tron-Pop-Bumper-Kit-Pinball-Mod.html), as the blue does not transmit enought light. But I can't find the post and the reference to the flasher used, would welcome a pointer

- Could anyone with an LE (or knowledgeable about it) let me know where is the motor location for the recognizer, and whether there is an hole for the motor axis ? Tried to find the info, it's hard to read and vizualize

- Just behind my Arcade, I have a metal post which does not seem to be doing anything... Could someone provide me with a picture of the back of their arcade ?

Thanks !

Here's mine. The problem is the blue acrylic plate that does not diffuse light, especially compared to yellow and orange, and the fact that you are viewing it at an angle.

I would say they are equivalent to yours?

20210208_080808 (resized).jpg

Well... Did you check the control signal of the relay to see if it's stable?

Well nice way of responding to someone trying to provide guidance on the basis of your post alone, which is two lines and describes nothing of what you had done. I would have had further suggestions to debug further based on this latest data, but I guess you are smart enough to figure it out by yourself.

[EDIT] Apologies if I misread, reading again I think I see some level of second degree humour. Lost in translation frankly for me (hey apologies, I'm French)

Here's the link to the code:
https://github.com/elyons/pinduino

Indeed as stated, when reading back this morning, I realized that my brain had completely overlooked the humor in the tone when translating. Well to my defense there was no smiley...

To all Tron LE owners out there (and others): would someone have access to the detailed schematics manual for Tron LE ?
And no it's not on Stern website, they removed from the manual all the sections related to board schematics (CPU board, IO power board, etc).

I could find Tron Pro by cross referencing (as it uses the same board as Indiana Jones, which is fully available on the Internet Archive), but not for Tron LE.

Thanks !

Just for the record, it's relatively straightforward (and cheap) to add "non game controlled" fiber optics. The fiber optics system is essentially an RGB led emitter connected to fiber optics cables. In my Tron that's what I have, and it cycles colors.

There are two downsides though:
- Not game controlled, unlike Eli's mod
- The brightness tends to dim at the exit of the ramp (the light emitters are connected on both sides of the fiber optic - so two per ramp, so the exit of the ramp is the farthest point from the emitter). Probably can be improved with the right choice of LED emitter and fiber

Not sure I understand, by wire you mean EL Wire or fiber optics?

In both cases... Aliexpress....

A pic would be helpful to get pointers

Just take a measurement of the fiber diameter, and order through aliexpress

Here's an example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrU8vMR

Use a caliper to measure diameter. Probably need more than 1m, so order 5m (and you'll have some spare)

My Tron is starting to act strangely... Whenever the recognizer bank drops down, Disc War multiball starts immediately.

My first suspicion is that the opto is faulty, so just checking: should it appear as a normally closed or normally open switch in the test matrix ? I don't have the pinball at home, it's currently at a friend's place, but he looked with my guidance in the switch diagnostic, and there is no "square" on the opto switch. But come to think of it, I kind of wonder, since it's an opto, there should always be a "square", ie it's a normally close switch, right ?

Anyone would have an opinion on Marco decals here:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-66B9-XX

Are they of quality, or are they a cheap repro ?

Thanks

"Hot toys Tron Sam Flynn with light cycle". They are expensive but they do show up. I found a second hand one less than 1/2 the price but i still need to mod it.

Holy cow, 600 to 1000 dollars on ebay !!! Now expensive is not the word I would have used

The transparent rubber ring on my spinning disc (bought from Pinball Center) came off after a few months. I bought a new one, removed the original double side tape (as I know it does not hold), used Super Glue, but it came off again after one week.

Is there any glue recommendation you would have to ensure it stays ?

You are one lucky pinhead....

Thanks for the tip, I'll take a look. I think actually a shaker control board might do the trick as well, if the power is 12V

Just got back my Tron which was at a friend place for a few months for lack of space at home...

Did a quick check (switches, etc), repaired a few minor things, just one issue that I need to debug further : sometimes, the right flipper gets stuck in the upper position for 1s before going back down.

Before I dig deeper into this, any pointer?

Regards

Thanks, I'll take a look

Two additionnal questions:

- what are the currently available sound remix ? I already checked the one available on this thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-le-music-remix-video-made-with-pinball-browser), however I recall seeing somewhere (but of course I can't find the original thread) another remix which was using movie soundtrack only. Is this the one referred to in this other thread toward the end, but available for LE only ?

- when launching a ball with the plunger, just after launching the ball I hear a very strong buzz at the rough location of the auto plunger. It's as if the auto plunger coil was energized, but did not activate. Auto plunger is otherwise working fine, and this does not seem to have any effect, beside this odd noise at manual ball launch. I don't recall noticing this before, anyone else has this symptom ?

Thanks and regards

You were spot on. I was under the impression it came from the auto plunger, but indeed this is the skill shot post.

Odd that I did not notice before, I'll have to take a look and see how to reduce the noise if necessary

Regards

Cleaned up the sleeve (did not have one handy) , it's not that). It happens on both plungers, although far more often on the right.

I assume I can check if it's magnetized using a small piece of metal?

If not that... What else?

Regards

Anyone would have a good digital copy of Tron manual? The one I can find on Stern website is a crappy scanned version where you can barely distinguish markings on the layout, or part number references

Thanks

So no one has a readable copy of Tron manual...

Anyone would have the possibility to scan the layout with references of all playfield parts (especially metal posts) as an alternative? My posts are slightly corroded, and I'd like to replace them with new and shiny posts.

Thanks

The manual on this link is way way better than Stern, thanks

It's just missing the layout of playfield for some top metal posts, just like my original documentation. So aside of removing them and take measurements, I have no way to know what metal posts are installed and where... Sigh...

I'm referring to the posts with the rubber cylinders at the entrance of the right ramp, or just in front of the left bumper, they are marked as D on the layout (pink pages, which does not seem to be a metal post in the bill of material)

Anyone would know where to get the flasher used in this bumper mod: https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p5/Tron-Pop-Bumper-Kit-Pinball-Mod.html

One of my flasher is defective (my bad, I twisted it and it broke...), but can't find it anywhere...

Thanks !

Out of curiosity, do many players reach Portal ?

I was a few shots away from reaching it, just had to validate light cycles in Sea of Simulation, and I'm a below average player, so I was wondering... Either I made tremendous progress in my game skills, or the game is easier than others I own

I would suspect a short, can you test continuity between each columns directly on the switch side of the connector (ie the part which is connected to the switch themselves, not the part which is connected to the backbox)

Logic would dictate that you will see a short between several signals.

Ah indeed, that's another explanation It was a still a short in the end, but not at the right location

Good morning,

I have open sourced my Tron disc mod. Documentation is scarce, as honestly I'm abysmal at documentation, plus I lack time

Video of the mod:

Github of the mod: https://github.com/Ashram56/Tron-Pinball-Disc-Mod

Note the licence: this is GPL3, free to use and free for commercial usage, but you are required to give credit, and to release any change (both HW and SW) made to the design publicly, ideally as a commit or a fork of my github.

Questions, feel free to ask

There are three operating states:
- Disc motor not running (so recognizer up usually), the yellow dual trail effect
- Disc motor running, clockwise : rotating light (blue or red, can't remember)
- Disc motor running, counter clockwise : rotating light (opposite of other)

So if you don't want any light show when recognizer bank is up, easiest is to modify color from orange to black (line 34 and 35 in my Arduino .ino file)

Anyone would have any advice on how to restore that area of the playfield ? (the white line around the TRON insert)

On top of that the insert is slightly raised and not flush anymore with the playfield, any advice would be welcome.

Regards

IMG_3088 (Large) (resized).jpg

Interesting, so you also have the same issue with the insert rising.

Kind of wonder, if I go the hard route (heat and unglue, realign and glue, replace clearcoat), I don't see any reason for the issue to not appear again, right?

With regards to the quick and dirty approach, do I need to remove the clearcoat, and any guidance on how to do it? Posca pencil with a ruler?

Regards

And sidenote... Where do you get a replacement playfield?? Could not find one myself.

Disc optos problem, so need to realign them

Anyone would have a recommendation to easily access them? First time I have to do it, and when checking under the playfield it's not quite apparent how to access the optos

Thanks

Project is alive, and I believe his statement is quite clear: he's taken a hard hit by building 100 boards that did not work. So he will not build in large batches anymore, only small batches, and price has increased as a result.

Looking to powder coat some custom made siderails (by an Italian guy, I'm located in Europe), hinges and lockbar.

I've seen some Tron with a relatively bright blue, I'm not too fond of this color however, has anyone done other colors (dark blue for ex, or purple, with/without glitter) ? If so, any picture you could share ?

Regards

Optos again...

(Edit) oops I realized I did not specify which optos. The spinning disc of course (as they are under the plastic holding the recognizer)

First, these optos are a pita to get to, unless I'm missing something. To remove the top plastic above the opto, I need to remove one ramp.

Second, they are screwed from the top, so I can't really see them and check their alignement vs the hole. I would need to disassemble the opto mounting plate to get access

Third, I checked in test mode, no issue. It's during gameplay, with shaker and motor vibration that I get crazy opto triggers. To note that I realized that I often got opto trigger when the ball is slightly hitting the mount when entering Quorra lane

Is there any guidance on how to align these optos? Visually they seem fine, the beam seems aligned

To note that one of the screw seems a little bit loose, as if the nut thread in the opto PCB was damaged. I did not dismount it yet, but before doing so wanted some advice.

Thanks

I edited my post, as indeed I had not specified which optos.

This is the spinning disc optos.

Given the intermittent nature (ie during test mode no problem, but close vibration to the optos cause it to trigger) I'm guessing this is an alignement problem

I'll disassemble them and check

As for the plastic yes, it's just that I could not remove the rear nuts that hold the plastic (beneath the ramp) without removing the ramp to allow to slide the wrench/screwdriver (whatever the name, can't find it in english). Anyway, I solved the problem, simply did not put back those two nuts, that way I can easily access them if needs be.

Still need to check on the optos soldering though

[EDIT] Anyone would have a decent digital copy of Tron manual, one which actually does list parts, especially electronic parts ? In my manual they don't even include the posts used on the playfield, just a generic page listing all posts that "could" be used one day in any Stern machine... And it's the same as the one available on Stern website

I will reflow solder on these optos, but in case I need to order (and I have a pending order with PU-Parts), I would welcome a reference... Or for that matter a nice copy of a real manual

By searching on Marco Specialties website I found those:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6775-01

Based on the mechanical shape, I assume this should work

Thanks

I used the posts as an example. They don't list anything, just "refer to playfield location".

Anyway, I found my way around, but really Stern, accurate documentation would be nice

Wow, where did you find that one ??

Before you assemble it in your cabinet, the virtual pinball community would absolutely LOVE a high resolution scan. Your name would go down in the history of virtual pinball

Ah that's the trick question. When I received my LOTR NOS playfield, I was fortunate to have someone local with a very specific scanner type designed for art painting scan, so I got a very nice scan out of it for a reasonable price (about 100 euros).

Manually, you can do the same using a Scanjet 4600, which are unfortunately hard to find. You then assemble the scans.

I can put you in contact with the author of the vpin version of this table, maybe he's close and can help to find a solution. But that would be greatly appreciated.

I should also point out that in any case, doing a scan would be worthwhile for you: with a little bit of additionnal work, it could be "converted" to a file usable for generating an overlay. I'm sure many would find it useful.

Regards

That's the scanner that was used for my NOS LOTR playfield:
https://widetek.com/project/widetek-36art/

Note: it requires a little bit of adjustment, as it scans the depth as well and can get confused by the holes for the mechs and the inserts, so the operator needs to scan with various settings to be able to swap and replace portion of the playfield (in my case three inserts were incorrect with artefacts on the primary scan, so he used the same inserts on other scans that had artefacts elsewhere to swap)

End result is gorgeous. 600DPI (more than the playfield printing resolution), with perfect dimensional accuracy

Hi everyone,

I would be looking for the clear orange acrylic that I have seen on some machines, that sits on the right side of the arcarde, creating a "bridge" above the lane with the switch which triggers the Flynn mission. I'm having a hard time finding a link, would you have something ?

Thanks and regards

Bummer... Well if someone who has one was kind enough to perform a scan of the plastic so that I can manufacture it using a laser cutter, I would be very grateful

That's a good idea, but isn't the hologram fan not too noisy? I have a two blade version, and it's like a helicopter taking off....

Just ordered a set, shipping to the US, because the price delta with European resellers is massive

For those who have installed Pinduino with WS2812 ledstrip, I'm not sure I understand how the ledstrip is mounted on the ramp ? The adhesive is behind the ledstrip, yet I assume it is mounted on the exterior of the ramp, so how do you mount it ?

Thanks

Greetings programs,

I would have two questions...:

- When I put back my ramps in the machine a few months ago, I think I've probably swapped some screws, as the ball when travelling through the left ramp seems to push "up" the mounting plate of the lightcycle. It's as if the ball is hitting the bottom of the plate, resulting into the plate bouncing up and down.

Can someone please take a pic of the two mounting screws at the back of this ramp ? On mine they are of identical size, but I'm confused on how this could be any different anyway

- I'm going to build my own Flynn sign (I have everything needed for that), but would welcome some approximate dimension.

From this page: https://www.kimballspinballs.com/tron-legacy/ , it seems to me the sign is about 10cm long, would that seems about right ?

Cheers

Thanks !

Well I'll build one first, see how it goes, and let you know

It's not super complicated, I have everything needed to print something nice using a resin printer, add led inside, it's more the integration and mounting mechanism

If you ever feel inclined, you can also built this mod: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source#post-6447444
Need to build it, it's not sold anywhere (since I'm not in the business of making mods).

Although I might find someone who would be willing to build some, but need to gauge interest.

Arcade: pinballlooking had built a batch a little bit more than a year ago, I don't know if it's still in the plans
Alternatively, there is a repository out there for building it yourself, but it's not straightforward

Flynn mod:
- for the DIY, here's a 3D model, you will need to add illumination - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724179
- ready to install : https://www.kimballspinballs.com/tron-legacy/

Fiber kit: since Eli is gone, your best short term option is to look at adding fiber optics to the ramp, and drive them using light diffuser such as this one:
https://www.superlightingled.com/dc12v-3w-6-heads-choose-rgb-bluetooth-24-keys-wireless-remote-voice-app-control-colour-changing-optic-fibre-light-illuminator-p-3589.html

That's what I have, although I think mine are higher power. They are not interactive, but at least they change colors (and they do look nice)

Did I state single led? My bad then, indeed multiple ones. In my case, arduino controlled ws2812 to provide some control

Curious on these 'gameplay' integrated ramp light cycles, I'm not sure I understand what they are?

I know about Eli mod, I'm not just sure this is what was referred here

Did you build the microcontroller PCB yourself, or are you using a mod ?

Thanks for the info. I have a custom PCB as well able to detect switches/inserts/coils, but can only drive WS2812 leds (ie now power transistor to drive a load). I wish I had planned for that TBH

Good morning,

I have reversed engineering the data bus used on Stern SAM between the CPU board and the IO driver board. It's actually relatively straightforward, so I now need to build an analytic control unit that could be used to drive mods.

This bus essentially allows to detect flashers/coils/lamps/specific HW (so in the case of Tron disc motor for ex). This is what Eli mod for the ramp used. It cannot detect switches, as the switch matrix is connected directly to the CPU board, so you need a specific intercept board (which is what TimeBandit had been doing on his ramp mod as well), a little bit more costly to build.

Coming back to Eli therefore, since he's been using this data bus to control the fiber optics, I would really welcome information on what triggers the ramp color changes ?

We can probably figure out something or give the flexibility to end user though, but curious to know what Eli mod owner think of the current trigger system

Cheers

Never heard of that mod, do you have a link ?

Would you know by chance what power is each RGB diffuser ? I have a 2W, a 5W and a 10W emitter. The latter is probably WAY overkill (and expensive), the 2W seems on the low side, so the 5W seems the best bet, although slightly big. I'm also curious to know if the PCB of the emitter is mounted perpendicular to the playfield, or is it flat with a mirror (since the led would be facing upward in that case).

It's good to see you can achieve mode detection just using the insert/coils, we will need to build a table to reflect what color the fiber need to be depending on which insert combination

Thanks, did not know about that page. Very well polished I must say, too bad he did not maintain the mod afterward.

What I find odd is the switch detection, does he have wires connected from his control board to specific switches as well ? Or maybe some inserts are blinking when target are hit (Zuse, Quorra spinner, etc) and he uses that to track hits

Good morning everyone,

I've received a few requests on whether I would be willing to sell my custom made Tron disc mod. Originally this was not my intent, as I'm not a mod maker, plus I live in France so cost of shipping might be high, but I thought I'd give it a go and check to see if there's interest.

Here is a link to the mod thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source#post-6447444

I would need to know how many people would be interested, and what's your level of expectation (ie fully plug and play, tinkering OK, etc).
The problem is not the mechanics and electronics, well at least not conceptually. it's really everything else (ie documentation, production scale electronics that someone besides me can actually install, assembly, logistics, after sale support if required)

I have no real price indication, since I have not yet looked into material cost, but I would expect it will be in the range of $100+, maybe more depending on whether I focus on cost optimization (if volume is high) vs off the shelf board (which i prefer, I have an option in mind, but it will be slightly more costly - but more easily installed)

Hit in the disc (ie through the opto) ?

I'm moving discussions for the disc mod to the mod thread itself, and will update with people who pinged me. So far about a dozen.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source

For those who have an Eli kit, it would be helpful if you could share the following information:

- Picture of the control unit sitting between the CPU and power board
- Picture of the cabling interface, and picture of the light emitters (especially wiring)

That way I can see if my method of intercepting data could also control Eli kit

Cheers

It's a shame that no technical information is available on Eli mod, because from these pictures alone, I'm having a hard time understanding the wiring.

In theory, I would have thought that just like the original (ie LE) ramps, this would use RGB driven emitters, so three signals, ground, power, and potentially strobe, so total 6 signals. The connector on the led emitter is using 7 signals, and I can't figure out why. Unless it's used to control the light cycles (there's a connector on the right stating "cycle"), no way to be sure unless someone knowledgeable does a little bit of reverse engineering on this module itself.

Which means those kits are going to be hard to repair. It would have been possible to rebuild the electronic board, but without at least schematics that's damn difficult. Likewise, if the control board fails, you're toasted, and can't use the existing emitters.

Sidenote: what's the last picture ? I can't see any relation to the mod itself

I'm fully aware of that. I'm actually recreating that bus analyzer to perform the same task. By the way, Eli mod does not monitor switches, he monitors inserts only, and based on this infers switch status - insert transitions between on/off/blinking, as switches are monitored directly by the CPU board on the lower left connectors, to which Eli mod does not connect. TimeBandit did have additionnal electronic to monitor switches

What I'm saying, is that based on the wiring, I can't really figure out the signaling used. I was asked in another thread if the control unit I'm building will be able to drive Eli emitters, and I can't answer that because the signaling and color scheme of the cabling is not standardized, and these control units have 7 wires, which is frankly two more wires than what I would use myself (I'm also looking at recreating these fiber emitters). So they can't be repaired without having access to the schematics, and I think it's a shame.

On another note, specifically for the fiber control unit: the HW units in a Pro (both CPU and powerboard) do have the electronics to control these emitters. It's there, at least on my Pro, transistors are present (the emitters are connected to the Aux connector). But there's no signal sent (I checked with my oscilloscope...), it's purely a SW lock.

Fun fact: on Star Trek Premium, the code does have support for the Star Trek LE features (the side phasers), it's just missing the LED boards... (and a 20 euros control box). You can actually go through the test menu and activate these "phaser" lights, it's just that they are not present physically.

Well using one set of rgb signals for each led only makes sense if he planned to have different colors for both leds of the same emitter, which I don't think is the case? On the picture above, each channel seems to have it's own transistor driver (which make sense), but without a tester I can't tell if the command is identical.

Plus... You still need VCC.

Based on the two connectors on the side, I have a feeling he planned to add control for two additional devices, probably the light cycles. So three wires for the leds, ground and VCC, and two signal for each light cycle

Yes I stand corrected, I typed too fast. The data bus actually controls all outputs (inserts, flashers, coils)

Well if you are handy with a digital multimeter, you can probably reverse engineering each board. Take a close up picture of each board, with the components reference clearly visible, and use the DMM to trace the signals and connect them on a drawing board.

What would need both the emitter board and the control unit.

If you can take at least high definition picture of each side of each PCB, including the control unit, that would be a good starting point.

I'll definitely make it as serviceable, and at a minimum provide information on how to repair these boards

I would not quite call my version as improved, feature wise. Eli did a tremendous job in terms of SW, and unless I get help from someone, it will be super difficult to recreate what he did (plus the flexibility) - I'm not a SW engineer, and a lot of this work is actually SW development. What my version will have however is it will be much more documented.

Well after a close look at the pictures, it's indeed as I suspected, two wires to control light cycles, one of the wire being shared to control the arcade.

He probably had planned to add controlled led in the light cycles

Not sure what the right connector is though, called SOL? There seems to be a command transistor as well

So it looks like 6 command transistors, and probably ground. No VCC though that I can see, need to wrap my head around that

Using the DMD is the best approach if you have a way to use reference frame as a trigger point, excluding the score information. Essentially what has been done in virtual pinball world with PuP Packs.

There is an open source RPi Pico DMD decoder project in the work from a german group (and you probably know them, your alias seems familiar), so capture is already implemented (except for SAM if I recall), but the frame trigger mechanism however is not implemented to my knowledge

Anyone would have the schematics for the Tron PRO/LE power board (and CPU while we're at it) ?

My interceptor board is running into issues and I can't figure out why. I based the design off the Shrek/Indiana Jones manual, which are complete with schematics, but maybe there's a small difference on Tron which would account for the difference

Thanks

Not all fibers are created equal. You need fiber with low attenuation (ideally 0.3dB/m - thanks Daniel for the info, he'll recognize himself )

1.6% per foot means 4.8% per meter, which translates into 13db/m. If my calculator is correct though, I must admit I just did a google search to convert, I did not remember the formula by heart

It definetly shouldn't !! How in the world did this happen, and more importantly, how was it not detected beforehand ??

Here's the schematics for this area. I'm amazed that it works at all, because from what I can see you have a short between +5V and -12V

pasted_image (resized).png

If it was touching L6, it sure would cause problem, so while visually it seems there is contact, in reality it's probably not the case, fortunately.

From what it looks like, essentially this is bypassing L5 completely. It's a filter so it's not too much of a problem.

Work in progress

pasted_image (resized).png