(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.

By centerflank

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9,106 posts
  • 460 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by DudeRegular
  • Topic is favorited by 136 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 391 votes
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes

(552 votes)

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#7678 1 year ago

Looks like I may be picking up a Tron after all

Going to pick up a spare disc and would really like a clear and/or blue one. Before ordering through pinballcenter I wanted to check here first to see if anyone had some of these stashed away they would be willing to sell.

I've never seen the blue one. Sounds like it creates more action than the black but less than the clear. Friend had the clear and it was crazy active so blue sounds like it may be the best option but curious to hear everyone elses opinion.

#7700 1 year ago

I sent pinballcenter a message asking about shipping. Their site says they don't ship to the USA which seems odd as I've bought from them before. It also added $440 to the order at the same time. Will see what they say. I'll order a couple spares if they can help me with shipping, if not, I guess I'm stuck with the black from pinball life. Was really hoping to get a set of the clear as my friend had it on his game back when he still had it and the action from that disc was super fun. I once had a ball come out of the disc, go through the middle of the flippers and spin all the way back up for a Quora shot!

#7712 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Why ordering several? For another pinball fellow or for stock? It wears a lot?
And so, who is in and for how many sets?

They do wear out over time.

Curious, has anyone talked to titan pinball about making some?

***edit. I sent them a message.

#7715 1 year ago

Got in touch with Titan and surprisingly nobody's reached out before. Y'all should be ashamed

They are interested in making replacement disc in silicone. Anyone know what the clear disc used to adhear to the disc? Think finding something to stick it on with is the hardest part. For some reason I thought my friend used contact cement. He's out of the country so I can't ask him.

#7723 1 year ago
Quoted from brett:

I have know problem paying in advance. Let me know what amount for three orders and shipping.
Thanks for Getting these for us.

Same as well. I would do 2 as I just want enough to get me by until Titan figures out the process/material then I'd rather buy from them (since they want to do business with me).

#7728 1 year ago

All right, you talked me into it. I'll do 3.

If titan figures it out I'll buy some from them as well as a thank you.

#7732 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Speaking of Titan, have they released the translucent sling rubbers yet? I can’t access their site from work to look.

Are they an odd size? I bought a set of translucent rubbers last week using the kit they had on their site. From the kit it showed 2 1/4 Inch I.D. but the manual shows 2 inch. They have both in stock.

This game is crazy. I've already spent $300 in parts/mods for a game I don't even pick up till Sat that is already stupid nice with a bunch of mods already.

Speaking of MODS. Any LE owners swap the milky Fiber light wire with clear side illumination wire? I prefer the clear so was thinking about doing it and didn't want to reinvent the wheel if it's been done already. From what I can tell you need 20ft for one ramp and 21ft for the other. Wire isn't to expensive either - http://www.wiedamark.com/5mmsolidcorefiber.aspx Just didn't know what the total overall diameter was.

#7789 1 year ago

Tron LE loaded and on its way to it's new home

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#7791 1 year ago

Stopped for food. Who's going to teach me the secret handshake?

#7798 1 year ago


#7799 1 year ago

Just made it home and got set up. Long trip bit worth it.

My kids wont let me play though...

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#7800 1 year ago

I know I'm being annoying but am just excited.

Can you believe the game is still on code 1.1 and shows 505 total plays? It's like a barely opened NIB. I even get to update the code

Will be polishing the PF and doing some mods to it over the next week. Will post pics when done.

#7828 1 year ago

Anyone know where to source a chasing LED light strip that can be cut down to about 12 inches? I want to make an active backglass for my game and would like to put the chaser lights at the portal so it looks like it's moving. I saw it once years ago and can't seem to find anything light strips that look like they would work.

#7829 1 year ago

OK, I know I may get crap for this, but the only thing I don't like about the LE was the cream colored light tubes for the ramps. So, I bought some clear side glow to swap them out with. Will keep the cream colored ones in case I ever sell (over my dead body) or if I wind up not liking it.

I'll post some before and after pics but my assumption is it will basically mirror the aesthetics of the Eli kit.

The wire I purchased is slightly larger (about 1mm) but still fits in the light housings. With a quick light test it appears to transfer the light cleaner and potentially a bit brighter as well. Time will tell. Experiment takes place this weekend.

I'll also take the time to black out the tube under the PF so I get rid of the light fade into some inserts that is currently occurring.

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#7839 1 year ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I did this exact mod to my 3D backglass few months ago. Here is the led strip I used. https://amzn.to/2xqPI5Y Works great and you can adjust the speed and color you want for the light chase. Looks awesome on my Tron Pin. Love it!

Appreciate it. That one is no longer offered but I ordered this one. amazon.com link »

Says it's supposed to have a chase feature. Should be easy enough to hook into my 12v slot on my PIG. Not sure when I will tackle this project as I need to finish my ramp project first and the shop/mod job I'm working on now but will post up pics/video when done if I get it done.

#7840 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Very nice, hope it works out great. I have the Redshift/TotalLightShow ramp kit in my Pro which uses clear tubing and it looks awesome. I was never thrilled with the cloudy looking stuff that came on the LEs.

Got the ramps cleaned, flame polished and new light tubes installed. Also wired up some hallmark light cycles and installed them. Hope to get the game back together tonight to test it out.

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Only made it this far last night. Full tear down completed. PF cleaned, polished and waxed and repopulation restarted. Went with Titan translucent rubbers for this game so hopefully it will look and play nice. Also swapping in some Ice blue lights for the GI. Don't normally change colors to often but for some reason blue is calling out to me and I felt reg blue may be to dark. Will see how it looks and will swap back to cool white if it doesn't look good.

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#7841 1 year ago

Working on the arcade version 3. Anyone know where the 6 pin connector plugs into? I assume the 2 pin goes to the plug from the factory one. No instructions are with it.

#7843 1 year ago


#7848 1 year ago

Got the ramps done. Here are a couple comparison pics. Hard to compare as I changed the gi out as well. Not sure I'm liking the ice blue gi. A bit to much blue. May have to play with things. Also not sure about the ramps. Love it when they are off but not as vibrant when on. I think the gi is mainly at fault for that though.
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#7849 1 year ago

Also when i was taking these pics my clu light cycle started smoking in the front. I wired it and the flynn cycle together on the same plug to my 5v pig. What could I have done wrong (or just a bad cycle?). Ironically after it cooled down I tested it and all the lights came back on too.

I lit them by soldering to the battery compartment. Positive on spring side on both.

#7860 1 year ago

Agreed, Tron ramps are some if the easier ones. With LE its slightly tougher but still pretty easy and much easier than removing the back panel. When reinstalling just don't over tighten the ramp tube lights. Just finger tight is enough.

#7870 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

There are several switches and flashers on it too, don't they have to be disconnected as well?

Yes, but those are just Z connectors and are color coded already under the PF. Do it right and take the time to pull the ramps off.

#7871 1 year ago

For the hallmark cycles. I create a separate thread so anyone that may have the same issue down the line could find it in a search. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-light-cycle-help

If you have any clues on why mine smoked out please let me know.

#7880 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Oh yeah could someone post up a clear photo of the TRON backboard for me? I am at work tonight so no where near my game but could do with a nice photo of the backboard - its for a mod idea

This what you needed?

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#7882 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

How easy is it to remove the backboard from the game temporarily?

Not easy, especially for an LE. I cheated and got a picture from the spare plastic set that came with my game. Looking at it now, it looks like the spare set is for a pro though as their isn't a hole in the back plastic.

#7884 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Unless something shorted out you did nothing wrong with the installation method. That's how everyone has theirs hooked up, whether it's constant power or tied to some other lamp in the game.

Figured it out. I made the dumb assumption that the top row on the PIG was 5v and the bottom was 12V due to the labeling of the lights on the board. I didn't realize that all of them did 12v and 5v and when I plugged it in I plugged into 12V thus the smoke.

In other words, don't be an idiot

Got them both working now. The only problem now is the Clu is brighter than the Sam since I had to add some comet LED's to the Clu since I blew up the factory board. Maybe one day I will take the Sam one apart and do the same but for now I'm just ready to play it and have fun.

#7888 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. How come it's not easy? It looks like you remove the two flashers and then you have 4 actual screws to remove to get it off? Is there something I'm missing, or is it just hard to access it back there?

You actually don't have to remove the flashers. Just unplug them. What you would have to remove would be the GI lights as I don't believe they have a separate plug. What makes it harder on the LE is the moving recognizer assembly would have to be removed where the pro doesn't have that feature.

#7891 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

One of the big reasons I went Pro (alongside obvious price vs value differential).
As you know, I HATE the harsh blinky lighting on the SAM premium models. It was a contributing factor in selling TWD LE, and replacing it with a Pro (I’m counting on TimeBandit to release Total Lightshow for TWD now though, to restore that awesome red pulsing GI).
The premiums seem to use a serial lighting comms system.

Guess my eyes aren't that sensitive anymore as I don't notice any harsh blinky lighting on my LE. Light movement is nice and smooth to me.

#7893 1 year ago

Does it give your bonus count? If so, 95% chance it's the opto boards in the through. Just reseat them by unplugging them and plugging them back in. That works almost all the time and is a very common issues on the older stern games.

#7894 1 year ago

Anyone have a Quorra car from their Pro that they removed to install the light cycles? I'm looking to pick one up so PM me how much you want if you have one you are willing to let go of it.

Willing to trade a pinbits pop bumper kit or florescent plastic protector kit for one if you would like or can always trade for cash.

#7897 1 year ago

Hmmm... I actually already have one of those. I could have sworn the ones that came on the game had a green canopy cover on them.

Was their another version or have I really just lost my mind?

#7902 1 year ago

Yes, you need to feed the wires through the PF and plastic when removing the ramps.

I don't recall the exact size of that rubber but, if memory servers me correctly, it was one size larger than the one below it to the left. The one right above the left outlane, so I think it's 2 inches.

#7907 1 year ago
Quoted from Spyk:

So just got my first Tron. Was my holy Grail pin and now more so is because if the addicting and dare I say perfect game play. Was wondering if anyone was familiar with mods failing and how to fix them. The one I have is a pro and it has quite a few mods but some of them are starting to "not work". It came with the mods so I did not install them. Basically the Eli's ramp kit stopped working after a day's worth of play and the day after the speaker lightup kit went out. The only functional thing not working is the e in zuse which was working on and off when I first got it as well. I double checked all connections and they all feel solid at the connector level.
Luckily this thing does have a warenty and the guys are supposed to be out Thursday to fix it but if like to learn how to do this stuff on my own as much as I can.

Both of those things probably work off the same 12v connection. Could have come loose.

#7908 1 year ago

First time ever on Tron getting portal without needing sea of simulation during double scoring. 100 million bonus for doing so. I'm not beating that for a while.

Holy crap that was a rush.

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2 weeks later
#7947 1 year ago

Some progress made on my translight. Total cost so far is $40 and about 2 hours in labor soldering the lights up. Tied into 5v on my pig.

Also working on this for my topper. Think I'll try to find a clue disc as well and may try to integrate the center section in with the flashers on the ramps or disc. Thoughts? Basically took the guts out of the toy disc and added a light strip and some of the left over fiber optic wire from my ramps.

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#7957 1 year ago

FYI. Just saw the girl trans-light is showing "in stock" at marco. I know it's desirable so figured I'd post here in-case someone wanted one. Could be 1 or more that they have. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/830-52B9-11

Quoted from Durzel:

I'm probably being a bit simple but I don't have that white board behind my translite, I just have a (rather nondescript) office style light bar that runs across the middle behind it that illuminates the whole thing. My translite ccomes off to reveal all of the electronics directly behind. I have an LE if it matters.
How do you get a setup where you've got individual LEDs and that awesome LED strip?

Snakesnsparklers covered it mainly but yes, my game was the same. I removed the light tube and replaced it with this.

Quoted from J85M:

85vett that’s possibly the best version of animating the Portal I’ve seen, can you do a step by step and list what you used or you can make some kits and send one my way

Of course. I'm not entirely against making some but I'm very hesitant to do so as I can't absorb the financial responsibility of potentially messing something up on someones game. Since you would be installing aftermarket lighting their is always that risk That and it was pretty labor intensive since I didn't want to use light strips for the lights outside of the Portal section. I went the path of trying to mirror the old Bally/Williams style lighting boards. It's not hard/complicated work, just labor intensive due to the soldiering involved. I'll do a write up and post it here later. I kind of want to add a couple flashers into it as well but I just can't think of where to put them and what to tie them into. The ramp flashers and disc flashers seem obvious but where to put them on the board is where I'm stuck right now. Would like to add some effects but also want things to be subtle and not gaudy too.

#7958 1 year ago

I went through the links that Snakesnsparklers provided and I think that just about covers how to make the light board so I wont step by step that process. I'll just outline the differences I did and the parts list I had.

- Foam core poster board (cut to the size of the translight)
- mounting hardware for the board (same as the link Snakesnsparklers provided)
- LED light kit - amazon.com link » (this is what is used to make the chase effect)
- 9 Ice Blue, 10 Natural White, 6 Sun Light Frosted 555 LED's (I went with Frosted to limit the chance of hot spots on the translight) http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
- 22 AWG for the lights. Bought a 65 foot roll for $7 - amazon.com link »
- two 6 pin IDC connectors - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1598
- One 6 pin Z connector - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2887
- One Female .093" Pin and Socket Plug Housing (3 pin connector) - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4359
- Two Molex .093" Male Connector Pins 18-22awg - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3893

For Wiring:
- I mapped out the light locations that I wanted. I did this by tracing the main parts of the PF over to my poster board. I used a spare translight piece of glass I have by laying it over the Tron translight and tracing the character outlines. I then moved over to the poster board and used it as a template. Probably would have been easier using wax paper and just poking holes through it in the locations I wanted. Hind sight is always 20/20 though. I went with the colors I did as I wanted to enhance the factory translight colors, keep things subtle and not get that christmas tree effect. The sunlight bulbs were meant to bring out the yellows of the translight and the Ice blue was to bring out the blues a bit. It's your translight so here you can chose the colors you want though.
- After locating where I wanted the lights to go I drilled holes in the poster board that was the size of the LED housing. This allowed me to push them through the hole and hold them in place fairly snugly. I still put a dab of hot glue on the back to keep them in place long term.
- Now that all the lights are mount it was time to wire them up. I decided to daisy chain the lights. I did this by bending the leads from the LED's to be straight and then stripping away the insulation from the wire at each light. I solderied in the wires and pushed the wires down on opposite sides of the LED. I split the board in half and use one wire for the perimeter lights and one for the middle lights. Each of those two wires went to one of the IDC connectors.
- Once I was happy with the wiring I hot glued over all the bare wire to eliminate the risk of a short if something touched them.
- The chase effect light strip was next. it is powered by a 6V batter pack or a 5V USB plug. I cut the plug off the adapter off the harness which opened up to a + and - wire. I extended the wire long enough to reach the 6 pin IDC connector that the other two light wires went to and used the supplied tap to adhere the strip to the poster board. This kit has several different programmed effects so I just had to select the one I wanted before mounting it. It retains that setting as long as you don't change it so no remote is necessary.
- The wiring from the lights to the IDC connector is now completed. I made it long enough to where the wire would reach to the hole in the back of the cabinet behind the DMD.
- For the other 6 pin IDC connector I installed the two male .093 plugs and installed them into the female plug. Make sure you put them in the correct holes though. On my Pig the ground is the top and the 5V is the middle plug. 12V is the bottom so using that would blow the LED's (like what I did on my light cycle first attempt ). The other end goes to the other 6 pin IDC connector. I daisy chained the + and - to match the LED light wires locations. Doing things this way allows me to remove the panel via this plug vs having to feed the wire in and out of the cab anytime it needs to be removed.

I hope this gives a decent idea of what was done. If anyone has questions let me know and I'll do my best to help with those.

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#7964 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

This is exactly what I did.
I'm still using the factory fluro

Now there's a reasonable mod idea. Some sort of bracket that attaches to the bulb itself that holds the light strip. That as a plug and play solution should be fairly cheap too

Anyone up for it, if not, I'll brainstorm some ideas to see if I can come up with something.

#7967 1 year ago

This is the LED strip I used - amazon.com link »

I wish I could find a source of just the micro controller used in the kit. You only need about a foot of the LED strip so the rest goes to waste without another controller.

#7970 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Have you checked eBay? search for 2812 LED controller brings up numerous versions......

That helped. I ordered 10 to see if they work. Coming from China so may be several weeks though but thanks for the tip.

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I agree it would be much easier to just go with the center strip only and would seem fairly straight forward. If you come up with specific ideas for the bracket mount please let me know!

I've got an idea in using a plastic clip on the bulb itself with something to hold it straight at the top of the backpanel.

#7974 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Going to take the ramps off my LE soon to clean & wax around the back of the playfield where I can't easily reach.
Was debating about flame polishing the ramps while I have them off. They're not bad, but some of the videos I've seen make it look like they can end up looking better than new.
Having never done it before, is this a bad idea? Can anyone tell me if they've flame polished Tron ramps without any ill effects like warping?
I assume I would definitely be best advised to remove all of the LE fibre optics, flashers, switches, etc?

Please don't take this the wrong way as it's not meant to be derogatory, but with the questions you've asked it tells me you are fairly new to either pinball ownership or working on games in general. This being the case DO NOT attempt to try to flame polish your ramps. It is not hard to do but their is a very fine line between a crystal clear polish and a melted pile of plastic. These ramps are hard to find replacements for as well plus their is a lot of prep work to do before you actually get to the flame part (cleaning and buffing). Flame polishing is basically lightly melting the plastic to get all the very fine scratches out. Since you are in essence melting the surface of the ramp you can see real quick how it can go wrong very fast.

If you want to get into this I HIGHLY suggest getting some old junk ramps and start with that to get the tech down.

#7981 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Did you strip the cable to wire 5v before the USB connector on the light strip side or after the USB connector on the battery box side? Also, is the strip cuttable so you can customize the length specifically for the height of the backbox?

Stripped it just after the controller. Not using the battery box. When you cut and strip there you will see one black and red wire.

Yes, the led strip is curable approx every 1.5 inched.

I ordered 10 of those controllers to try and make some plug and play kits. Coming from China so probably another couple weeks

#7985 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

timebandit does a Tron kit, called Total Lightshow. Bottom of this page:
I have the Pinbits kit, just because I bought it a few years ago before the kit above was available. Pinbits’ stock does come and go. You can always contact them to ask. I’m honestly not sure which I’d buy now! Probably TL, because it’s still actively supported.

Isn't timebandit the one that is building the ability to add drop targets as well? If I had a pro I would most likely go that route as the add on abilities of the TLS have proven to be very valuable. Just look at what they are doing with MET Pro's with it (getting the active grave marker to work for example).

i wouldn't be surprised if he couldn't get drops and the active recognizer to work with his kit.

#7986 1 year ago

And just an update. The LED controllers are still showing in China I will post once they come in and I've tested them to see if making a plug and play kit for the active portal animation is feasible.

#7989 1 year ago

Wow, an original run unmodded pro. That's a unicorn right there. Congrats!

1 week later
#8025 1 year ago

My understanding is:
Inserts = LED boards
GI - Incandescent
Flashers - Incandescent

I know on my LE some of the harder to replace flashers were still incandescent when I picked it up second hand. The easier ones were all LED so I'm guessing the owner changed the ones he could comfortably do and left the rest alone.

#8030 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. Harder to replace as in availability? Or physical access to replace?

Physical access. The ones around the disc are a bit more challenging to get to. None of them would fall in the "hard" category in my opinion but that was my guess on why they were still incandescent but the rest were LED.

#8033 1 year ago

Portal Animation Update - I got my 10 test controllers in from China today. Got the first one wired up and it it works! This weekend I'll put some more effort into a mounting system but so far so good.

#8043 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Nope. I’ve been using these clear discs for a long time now and no damage ever. Just grid-tearing awesomeness.

That and I've installed the pinbits plastic protectors and cliffy ramp protectors already for added safety.

Quoted from jasonbar:

Very cool. I thought I was done modding mine, but this one is tempting...
Apologies if these questions aren't answered already, but:
1 - Got a price point in mind?
2 - Will the end user be able to adjust the animation speed?
3 - Can the LED strip brightness be adjusted? (I'm sure it could always be dimmed by applying tape over it...)

1- I'm shooting for $50 for a plug an play treatment. That is: Mounting bracket to the light tube, panel for the light strip, light strip w/ controller installed, wiring long enough to reach the spare 5v plug in the front of the game and the Molex connector to plug into that connector or a distribution block. I could probably look at just the light strip without the bracket and panel for $25 shipped.
2 - Yes. The speed is controllable.
3 - No, the brightness is set. But you can change the output colors and animations. Their are aprox 40 different animations that the controller will do. Only 3 felt like something that would go with the translight due to colors but their are several options.

Not really sure the amount of interest. Right now I have enough controllers to make 7 kits. If their is more interest I'll have to order more, which took fore ever to ship and arrive

#8046 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i'd be down for a plug-n-play portal light kit. the spare power connector at the front has one of my mods in it currently, however, so it stays on during gi blackout. you mentioned a distribution block?

I figured most people with a Tron have them due to the number of mods available. I believe their is one at the front of the cab and one in the head stock. The block (linked below) allows you to cleanly add more items. I have my light cycles and FLYNN sign installed in one as well as my backpanel light.


#8051 1 year ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Question? After about 40 plays my upper left flipper has started to stay in the up position after a flip. It will come down if I hit the right flipper button or double left button. I have checked the coil and mounting under the flipper but all seem well. Any ideas?

Check the coil sleeve and stop. Most likely slop or mushrooming in the cool stop or dirty sleeve. Assuming you bought used as 40 plays total on the game would be super early for either of those.

If not that check the tolerance between flipper on bushing going through the PC. Should be a credit card difference.

#8052 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

More than interested--put me down to buy 1 kit when it's ready.
I don't need the fluorescent mount bracket. I've already got custom flashers on poster board in the backbox.

Sounds good. I guess I could offer either option. One with and one without a bracket. I should know by end of the weekend what I can do and how much.

#8057 1 year ago
Quoted from moTiv8:

I would also be in for a kit.
Would you ship to Germany?

Yes, but it will most likely cost more to ship there.

Here is what I'm looking at after getting all parts together and time to soldier things together for a plug and play system as well as brackets. Brackets are going to be plexiglas strips held on the tube with a holder on the light.

With bracket - $55 shipped in lower 48. (Additional for non lower 48)

Without bracket - $35 shipped

I have parts for 6 right now. If their is more interest in them I'll order more controllers and lighting. The rest I can get at the hardware store.

#8061 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

you going to put an ad up? i'd like to see pics of parts uninstalled, then installed, plus instructions.

I'll post up pictures of the kit once I get things finalized. I bought some brackets but they were too big so will have to get smaller ones. I'm not going to go into to much depth on things as I really don't have any desires to become a MFG of pinball mods. Just trying to help out some other collectors that don't have the time/skills and/or desires to make their own.

If someone wants to make their own, to save some $$$, I have zero issues talking them through it. It's actually rather simple now that I found a light strip that does the correct animation at 5v, I found extra controllers (unfortunately through China though) and I'm comfortable with soldering.

These are the parts I'm planning on using:
- Light strip with controller/$18 - amazon.com link »
- .093 Plexi/$15 - Local hardware store. Best I could find at my store was an 18x24 due to the length needed. Really only will need about 3-4 inches of width from it.
- 1 in. Conduit and Pipe Hanger/ $1 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut-1-in-Conduit-and-Pipe-Hanger-6H-2TB-15/301014529
- Molex Connector and pins/$1 - Pinballlife - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4359 and https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3893
22 AWG wire/ $8 - amazon.com link »

When I came up with my price I added $10 on average to pack and ship them without a bracket and $15 with the bracket as the place where I can get them shipped isn't exactly the cheapest and my post office is stupid busy which equates to easily an hour in line at min

#8062 1 year ago

Trying to stay organized, so here is a list of those that have shown interest. It's more than 6 already so I'll go ahead and order more supplies. I should hopefully have things done this week for which I will then reach out to confirm interest. If I have you wrong or am missing you let me know.

Chooch – Full Kit
GorillaBiscuits – Light Strip Only
J85M – Full Kit
Weaverj – Full Kit
Pinzap – Full Kit
Meegis – Full Kit
Jasonbar – Full Kit
MoTive8 – Full Kit

I have enough material for 6 right now and I'm ordering more light strips and wire which should allow me to complete 4 more kits. I'll order another batch of controllers as well just in case more people show interest. So, the 8 above I would consider at round 1 with an opening for 2 more. The controllers take about 3 weeks to show up where the next batch will be made, if needed.

#8064 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

what does this thing look like? Examples?

The kit itself is still in my brain that I'm trying to put together. I will post pictures once I have one completed. A couple post above is a parts list for those DIY people.

I wont ask for or even consider taking anyone's money before I have something ready to ship for them. I don't roll with the whole pre-orders concept.

#8073 1 year ago

To answer the overseas questions - No issues with shipping overseas as long as you are OK with paying the extra shipping cost.

Quoted from koops:

I'm interested to see how you did the mount and wiring.
Mines pretty ghetto as it is just hanging midair and is powered off and old usb battery thing I had lying around.

I'll post pics. I'm really trying to get some time to make some of these right now. We just unexpectedly bought a new house (great deal fell in our lap type of thing) so we are having the get our current house listed, cleaned up and staged ASAP to get it sold. So time is a problem which is another reason why I wont ask for any $$$ until I have a kit sitting on my shelf ready to go since I can't commit to a timeline and I don't want to frustrate anyone.

#8078 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Anyone got any tips for safely removing the fibre optics on the LE? Or indeed any gotchas outside of taking lots of photos on removing the ramps as a whole?
The fibre optics look like they are held in place by tiny set screws - which I'm fairly certain I don't have an allen key small enough to fit.

Yes, they are tiny allen head screws but they are most likely finger tight as they shouldn't be tighten to much. In fact if they are more than finger tight it's probably to tight.

Loosen the two for each light box and gently pull the tube out. Then unclip all the switch and flasher harness that go to the ramps and push the connectors through the hole in the PF. Lower PF and take out the screws and gently pull up. They should come out pretty easily at that point. The Fiber optic tubes are held on by zip ties on the top.

#8079 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

To answer the overseas questions - No issues with shipping overseas as long as you are OK with paying the extra shipping cost.

I'll post pics. I'm really trying to get some time to make some of these right now. We just unexpectedly bought a new house (great deal fell in our lap type of thing) so we are having the get our current house listed, cleaned up and staged ASAP to get it sold. So time is a problem which is another reason why I wont ask for any $$$ until I have a kit sitting on my shelf ready to go since I can't commit to a timeline and I don't want to frustrate anyone.

Got one kit made today. Here are pics of what they will look like. Nothing rocket science here. I will most likely ship them with the bracket unscrewed from the plexi piece so that I can hopefully get them in a shipping envelope. Boxes would get expensive.

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
#8083 12 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i wonder if a velcro mounting system wouldn't be better. that metal bracket on the fluorescent tube makes me nervous a bit. plus, the velcro would ship easier/cheaper.

Not sure if it helps, but I put felt strips on the inside of the bracket and it only needs to be finger tight to stay put. I'm always open to suggestion so if someone has an idea let me know. I don't see how/why the bulb would break unless heat from the bulb would do something (thus the metal vs plastic option).

#8106 12 months ago

I finished the first set of kits today and have messaged everyone that I had on the list for them (in the US). Those over the pond I had to wait so that I could get shipping quotes for your countries as I don't want to over charge you nor do I really want to eat a bunch of shipping.

Those that got a PM. Please respond even if you no longer are interested so that I can move down the list. I will be shipping most likely Thursday or Sat due to my current schedule with working on our house to get it sold.

#8109 12 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Aww I didn't get a PM

I just made another donation to pinside to cover selling these here and to get Pinside+. I should be able to send and receive more PM's now as well as I quickly hit the max apparently....

#8120 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Wow.. hadn't heard of that before, Googled it and found your other thread.. it looks pretty impressive. Any idea on timescales or cost for it?

Same. That's pretty cool.

#8126 11 months ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I got my disks in yesterday. Thank you so much for all your hard work in doing this. It is much appreciated.

That was actually J85M.

#8127 11 months ago

Good and bad news:

Good - All US paid for Portal kits/lights have been shipped as of noon today.

Bad (actually really bad) - I got a quote to send one of these kits overseas (to the UK) and it was $85! So, those that are overseas, if you want one I'm more than willing to pack and ship it for you but I really don't think it's worth it to do so. They aren't hard to make if you can soldier and the parts aren't to terribly expensive. Maybe someone in that part of the world would want to make these as well and save you all some serious money. I'm more than happy to help by providing guidance on how to make them but most of that is already posted earlier.

I'm shipping the kits with the brackets in 2x18 tubes that weigh less than 1 pound. Light kits only went in a padded envelope.

#8134 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Ouch! I'm guessing that must be the volumetric weight causing that.
I'm still keen. I've bought quite a lot of pinball stuff from America (where all the cool stuff seems to be) before where sadly the cost of shipping has been more than the value of the order, so not that surprised to be honest. I've got a friend who might be going to Houston soon(ish), will find out when he's going as he might be able to get it shipped to him and bring it back in his luggage.

Sounds good. Just let me know in advance to make sure I have material to make more. In between houses for 5-6 months so making them is getting harder to do

#8148 11 months ago
Quoted from sleepygtr:

For those of you with experience removing the old black pad - is this what the disc is supposed to look like cleaned up? Foggy where the new pads go? The scratches are from the razor blade I was using with the goo gone. This was such a bitch to do I would prefer not using extra glue....
[quoted image]

Looks good to me. They are a little milky where the pad goes when brand new anyways. I went the lazy route and bought a new disc.

#8157 11 months ago
Quoted from moTiv8:

Really bad news. 85$ is a huge amount of money for less than 1 pound.
I will try to make it myself.
Thx for your work.

Agreed. I tried another place and it was about the same. Think it's the size more than weight. Tube is 2 inches by 18 in order to fit the bracket. I talked to someone in the UK that is thinking of making some for those on your side of the pond.

#8163 11 months ago

it's supposed to pop up after you launch the ball. It doesn't go up when the ball is sitting in the shooter lane as that would keep the coil energized for no reason. Should be holding the left flipper that makes it drop when you plunge but I've also never tried the right flipper. Sounds like yours is working as designed.

#8165 11 months ago

Not necessary. The factory fiber optics will just about be molded to the shape they are in now. Just loosen the set screws (they should just be finger tight) and pull them out.

#8168 11 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I think I've lost my mind...had the machine for years...always seem to remember the post going up when ball entered shooting lane from trough, then staying up until I held the left flipper button, immediately dropping post for first plunge...can someone verify?

Unless my games is broken as well as the one I play in league, it doesn't work that way. Post always goes up right when the ball leaves the shooter lane. To be specific, when the ball comes off switch 23 is when mine raises, unless I hold the left flipper.

#8188 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Anyone have a handy GI bulb guide?
Previously I was wondering to myself whether my LE ramp fiber optics were faulty, because they were quite dim. I have no reason to believe they have ever been removed from the game (the rubbers are OEM, etc) so it doesn't seem likely that they are not butted right up against the LEDs under the playfield. I now think, having read elsewhere on here, that my GI is simply too bright in places. When the GI goes off during the ball drain bonus sequence the ramps appear much brighter.
The previous owner fitted Comet LEDs everywhere, including the flashers (LE has LED inserts from the factory). They look like they are 2 SMDs clear everywhere, I can't see any frosted bulbs.
I'm wondering whether or not I would be better off with 1 SMD bulbs from the slingshots upwards? I'm tempted to buy a Comet LED kit but have been advised by them that they use 2 SMDs too on the basis that "people changing from incandescents expect it to be brighter". The Pro, not having fiber optics as standard, and with the aftermarket ones being (as I understand it) brighter than the LE ones are anyway - probably isn't as affected.

Sorry I should've been clear - I didn't mean removing the fiber optics from the bottom of the playfield, I mean where it runs underneath the switch on the left hand side above the playfield - it has to dip quite a bit to get under the nut. It's not the end of the world but thought if there was a quick fix I could do it while the ramps were off.

The frosted will help a little bit but wont be a huge overall change in total brightness. You could potentially sprinkle in some of these http://www.cometpinball.com/Comet-Pinball-2-LEDs-p/2led.htm with some 1 SMD frosted bulbs to help tailor the brightness to your liking without it sticking out to much.

That's just a nature of the ramp (the rope light and the switch).

The aftermarket ramp lights for the pro's really aren't any brighter than the ones on the LE. It's just different light tubes. The LE comes with older tubes that are cream colored. Going with newer tech clear ones will get you the same appearance as those aftermarket kits. I made the change here on my LE and have been very happy. I know not really all that accepted but I like it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/157#post-4432031

Here is an example:
11c30ce44b9ba0c582b142face6b9f82d5399b77 (resized).jpgb349e5dc39c04d9f6cf75992c5063410a66717af (resized).jpg

#8191 11 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Except on my kit I dim the GI as the ramp effects play to address this very issue of the GI washing out the ramps.

OK, but the ramp lights are still pretty much the same overall brightness and the change of tubes makes a pretty big difference as the factory ones don't transmit light all that well (IMHO). The LED option I provided is a way for a LE owner to dim their own GI as well.

#8193 11 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Indeed. I just wanted to use the sunglasses emoji.

#8203 11 months ago

I just checked mine:

Bottom right flipper - 23-900
Bottom Left Flipper - 23-900
Top Left Flipper - 23-1100

My game was HUO with less than 200 plays when I bought it so I'm assuming those are the original coils. I actually feel as though they are too strong on my game and would like to reduce their power a bit so I'm interested to hear what coils you have and go with.

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg

#8204 11 months ago

So you got me wondering. The manual says:
- Both left flippers are 23-1500's which is significantly weaker than the 23-900's that both of my lower flippers has.
- Right flipper is 23-1080

Think I'm going to order two of those 23-1500's to see how it plays.

#8208 11 months ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

From what I've read, it sounds like the left flipper doesn't need to make a ramp, and as such a weaker coil helps with the arcade scoop. Not sure if that's official, but I read it on someones post somewhere. With my coils, I randomly have: lower right = 5020 (23-900)... lower left = 5030 (23-1100)...upper left = 5030-OT solid state (clearly a replacement coil). To be fair, I can make all the shots fine, but the left flippers sometimes feel a bit weak. Not sure if these have been swapped out intentionally or not.

Makes somewhat of sense but that left flipper needs to make that right loop as well. My left flipper (same as yours) shoots that arcade so hard I'm afraid it's going to break the bracket in the near future.

#8215 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Finally got around to removing the ramps from my machine to clean & wax the orbits. Found it quite intimidating, first time I've ever removed ramps.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I think I've asked this before, but I'm replacing all the rubbers with Titan translucent silicone ones. How do I get access to the ones surrounding the disc? Do I need to remove the moving recogniser support bar? (LE). If so, how is this done?
My Recogniser isn't quite aligned centrally so I wouldn't mind tweaking it. How does it adjust?
Thanks in advance.

You need to remove that plastic that is below the recognizer bar. It's just 2 nuts and then it comes off. While you are that deep you really should remove all the plastics. Do them one at a time if you aren't comfortable with reassembly. Take some novius 1 (or other mild cleaning detergent) to the back of them. You'll be surprised with how dirty they can get as well as under them. You'll have to remove that big plastic to the left of the recognizer anyways to clean the quorra lane.

As for the recognizer. On the LE it's supposed to move back and forth. Your comment about it being off center makes it sound like it doesn't move during the game, is that the case? If so, you have an issue.

#8219 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I managed to get access to the rubbers around the disc by removing that piece you suggest.
Also, the Recogniser does move side to side during gameplay, so it being off centre was simply just where it happened to be when I switched it off.
Incidentally could you tell me whether or not the metal bar should rest on top of the plastic bit below it, or should it be floating above it? Mine doesn't seem to have any trouble going side to side, but it looks like it makes contact with the plastic.

No, it shouldn't hit the plastic. It should be about a quarter of an inch above it. You could look at tightening the mounting bolts but outside of that not sure how you would adjust it's height. May be worth just putting a felt strip under it to keep it from scratching your plastics.

Quoted from stretch2:

Looking for a Tron Le if someone is thinking of selling theirs.

Didn't you used to have one? Best of luck on your search.

Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

Who played their Tron pin this weekend? I did. I have a a few friends that come over few times a month and like to hang out in my little barcade. We watch music videos playing over head on two screens, drink beer (maybe shots) and play some pins and some retro arcade games. Love this room.
One of my friends always plays my Tron. Ever since I got it, it's the only pin he plays now and he didn't even like the movie that much. LOL! My other pin is a Medieval Madness and I used to have a White Water next to that and he never plays ether one since I got my Tron.
I asked him why he likes to play it more than my other pins and he says it's the challenge and fast speed of the game that he likes. It also has that "Just one more game" addiction feel that makes you come back again and again. For more abuse that is...
Kinda funny and it shows that it's not always the theme but the game play that can keep people coming back.
Btw. I sold my WW waiting for that Monster Bash Remake. Man they are taking freaking forever to release that pin. Ugh! Hate to see that missing gap in my lineup.

It's Portal for me. Dang thing feels just so close to achieving in almost every game but only happens maybe 10% of the time right now. That's what gets me coming back time and time again as I always feel like I "have a chance" of beating it each time I press the start button. The soundtrack doesn't hurt either.

#8235 11 months ago

Looks great. Assuming you are using 3 controllers?

#8250 11 months ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

The left ramp has a small break at the entrance. I think I could cover it with a cliffy but I can't seem to find them in stock. I would like to get the entire cliffy set for it.



Only place I know that has them in stock. For the protectors, e-mail cliffy. he will make you some but will be a couple months (last I checked). I bought from Pinball Heaven so I didn't have to wait. Was more expensive due to international shipping and conversion of the dollar. They also have the left ramp as well.

#8251 11 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Does it count if I got to Portal only AFTER completing the last modes via SOS? If so I've gotten to Portal a couple times

That portal light comes on and you start portal so - Yes

Most of the time I get their via SOS as well as for some reason Light Cycle is hard for me to complete. Not sure why as it's only 3 shots during the MB. Keep in mind as well while in SOS a shot to the right loop will light the Scoop which when shot advances a SOS shot. Easier way to complete GEM that way for instance if you didn't complete her during normal game play.

#8256 11 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I may be willing to sell my LE.

Translation - If you offer your first born and one hundred billion dollars.

billion (resized).jpg
#8257 11 months ago
Quoted from DaveH:

In SOS, a shot to the right loop turns on the trough magnet which grabs the ball anywhere on the playfield and pulls it towards the drain. I’ve seen it happen enough to know.

Reverse the polarity on the magnet. Duh.... That's the real trick.

Gotta put in the super secret code before you plunge your ball though. I'll share it here but only if you promise not to let it out. (remember to use both flippers together)
- .-. --- -. / .. ... / - .... . / -... . ... -

#8259 11 months ago

Want to say it was 2 weeks. They are closed till end of Aug right now but still better than cliffys 2 month wait (assuming his backlog is still the same).

#8263 11 months ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Is there somewhere 5v available in the backbox, to light the portal flow mod?

I'm pretty sure their is but I'll let someone else confirm as I'm away from my games today.

#8266 11 months ago

Someone has gone crazy and I like it!

I'll have to admit I'm buying some strips as well for the house

#8267 11 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

So you got me wondering. The manual says:
- Both left flippers are 23-1500's which is significantly weaker than the 23-900's that both of my lower flippers has.
- Right flipper is 23-1080
Think I'm going to order two of those 23-1500's to see how it plays.

Update on this. I chickened out and bought the 23-1100 coils instead of the 23-1500 and put them on as i was afraid the change from 900 to 1500 would be to great of a difference. Both worked great and since it improved the feel of, at least my game I grew some man parts and ordered the 23-1500 coils.

I'll slap them on and report back. I'm thinking the 23-1500 may be a bit to weak for the right flipper but we will find out but I still think the lower left flipper could use a little less power. Game played so much better with the 23-1100 in all 3 flippers though. Figured worst case i swap back to the 23-1100's and have a couple extra coils for my parts bin.

#8283 10 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Update on this. I chickened out and bought the 23-1100 coils instead of the 23-1500 and put them on as i was afraid the change from 900 to 1500 would be to great of a difference. Both worked great and since it improved the feel of, at least my game I grew some man parts and ordered the 23-1500 coils.
I'll slap them on and report back. I'm thinking the 23-1500 may be a bit to weak for the right flipper but we will find out but I still think the lower left flipper could use a little less power. Game played so much better with the 23-1100 in all 3 flippers though. Figured worst case i swap back to the 23-1100's and have a couple extra coils for my parts bin.

23-1500 FTW! Got them in and installed today. Played a couple of games and couldn't be any happier. I can still easily make the right orbit and the left ramp with the 23-1500's in the game. But now the ball isn't being plunge so hard into the scoop I'm afraid it will break something. Game plays a lot smoother to me. I'm 100% happy with this change. I have my camera equipment packed for our soon to be move but I'll see if I can get a camera phone video if anyone is interested.

#8285 10 months ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Anyone running ice blue lighting from Comet for GI in their machine? The machine I bought has 5 different types of bulbs "to get it just right" and I am thinking of swapping it out to either frosted cool or ice blue.

Yes. I've never been able to figure out how to get a decent picture of a pinball machines lights on but here is one of my game. Been thinking of splicing in some cool whites in a few places as well.

thumbnail (resized).jpg
#8287 10 months ago

Yes, the left sling area are the sunlight bulbs from comet. All are frosted bulbs.

#8289 10 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Nice. So just the left in sunlight, the rest are ice blue frosted? What do you use in the back panel if you don't mind me asking? 1 SMD or 2 SMD?


These in frosted is what I use.

#8295 10 months ago

Yeah, that's pretty awesome. Wouldn't mind having one as well to go with my translight collection.

3 weeks later
#8309 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Does it bother you guys that there is no call out for super pops, super scoring, spinners? On the pro, I think the LE has that (is that true)?

Yes, it is true if their isn't anything on the Pro. Playing my LE I hear them as well as the apron starts to strobe letting me know I'm in a mode.

#8354 9 months ago

Yes, DO NOT put the LE code on your Pro game. It wont work and could potentially mess up your game in theory if it would even install.

#8384 9 months ago


You want the single piece ones for the "Z", "U" and "E" targets. The "S" target requires the 2 piece one.

True story - My friends Tron was the reason I came up with the idea and got with Mezel to have them developed and made. At a min I think every owner should have one on the "U" target as it keeps that one straight. That one leaning really impacts the game play of this game.

I really wish they were still a couple bucks a piece but I sold my rights to them a couple years ago of which price increased

#8386 9 months ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

All you guys need to do is pull the standup target out, get a nutdriver and tighten the living shit out of the two screws. I did that a year ago when I picked up mine and they haven't moved. Absolutely no need to buy these splints.

You were lucky. Tightening them that much generally either breaks the bolt or strips the backing. Those bolts are tiny, can't handle much tension strength and don't have a lot of thread into the backing.

This does work but in my experience it was always temporary or led to breaking of the bracket.

#8391 9 months ago
Quoted from koops:

You can print them yourself for about 5 cents worth of filament using the Thingiverse link provided earlier.
Not the same design but should work the same if not better. On mine you just put the entire target through the gap and then slide it in to lock it down. No desoldering required like those wrap around ones either.

Point of clarification. Desoldering is not required. Curious how well your style is holding up. That was my first Avenue but they were breaking when built thin enough to work on games like x-men.

#8396 9 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Ahhhh......like the candy apple blue so much better than the orange.....Thanks Gio!![quoted image]

Been thinking about the blue as well but not sure if that is sacrilegious to do to an LE. I like the chrome but it's impossible to keep clean.

1 week later
#8410 9 months ago
Quoted from Hasi:

Yesterday I got my huo Tron LE but it has some issues.
The insert leds look like they have some ghost lights. I uploaded a video on Youtube (best seen starting at 35sec till the end):

These „ghost lights“ are also during a game.
If I do a single lamp or all lamp test, everything works fine.
It has a translite led mod preinstalled but the grey cable is loose and so half of the leds don‘t work (picture attached). I don‘t know which mod production it is so I can‘t find a manual.
The recognizer doesn‘t move synchron to the three led inserts.
I hope someone can help me to solve these problems because it is super hard to find a Tron LE in perfect shape in Europe.
Regards Hasi.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#1 - I think you are talking about the flynn insert. Reseat the ribbon cable that goes to that light board. That will probably fix that issue, if not more investigation will be needed as it looks like some power bleed. I've always been able to fix it with my light boards by reseating them (the ones that plug in).

#2 - Sorry, no clue but my assumption, without being there, would be in that hole in the middle of the panel. What goes to the other side of it?

#3 - Go into test to see how it performs. Does it go in the opposite direction by any chance? I.E. left insert lit while recognizer is at the right side? If so, it's probably just off sync.

Know this isn't a lot of help but hopefully it points you in the right direction. Moving games causes these funny bugs.

#8445 9 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

monkeyboypaul is there any chance you could look at your Ironman and TWD and gauge if they will need single piece splint or 2 piece splint.
I am away from home now for a week so can’t take a look on mine, would be handy to know as I’m going to order a few for each machine.
Thank you in advance

The drone targets are the single piece. The whiplash ones are 2 piece.

#8459 9 months ago

What should I look for on my LE for this service kit? I need to check to see if I have it.

#8464 8 months ago

I recently installed my clear disc and it was CRAZY. I toned it down just a tad with the resistor trick posted earlier and it's perfect for me. Still crazy spin but I swore something was going to break without reducing the speed of the motor.

#8466 8 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Ughhh see it's stuff like this that gives me pause for thought. What happened with yours then? Hitting glass?

Glass, recognizer, arcade, walls, you name it. It never threw the ball in the air but it was coming out with so much force it would hit a post, top of sling, flipper, etc and airball off of that into something.

#8485 8 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Has anyone else done this mod? I bought a pair of blue pads thinking that the black ones that are already there are just stuck on, but it seems that they're attached somehow? I didn't want to pull on them too hard in case they broke...

I'm not sure how they installed those but the factory ones have a nub on the back. Look at the pads on the ends of the ramps. They are the same thing just smaller. Those big blue pads are overkill as the ball only hits at the center point anyways, but to each their own.

1 month later
#8553 7 months ago

Of course you would do this now. I recently bought and installed 6 of those things from PBL

1 week later
#8616 7 months ago

The one one on the right goes on the left side where the TRON targets and upper flipper are. The middle one goes above the pops by the right spinner. Don't recall the left one though. I think it's somewhere by the right ramp.

#8645 6 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

The Redshift kit is better than both. Each ramp can independently run a separate color. The factory LE ramps cannot have different colored ramps at the same time.

I know they dont due to code but why couldn't they? There are several modes where the flash independent of each other. Also not sure of a time I'd want them separate colors on at the same time.

My only complaint with my LE ramps was the creamed color when off. Fixed that with clear tubes.

#8647 6 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

It's just not possible since they are tied to the same RGB outputs, has nothing to do with code. They have independent OFF/ON controls so they can turn on and off independently but they cannot show different colors at the same time.

Are you sure? When I did the code for the virtual version of the table we (had a partner) discovered, in the code/matrix, they had separate triggers for the left and right ramps for the RGB activation triggers (there are 6 in the lamp matrix). They aren't identified in the manual though in the lamp matrix thus why we had to discover them vs just read the manual.

Still not sure why you'd want them to anyways. Pro of the LE ramps is it doesn't rely on lamp and switch inputs to identify the routine to use thus the desired routines are only limited by Lymans brain. The pro kits are awesome but I just can't see them as being functionally better.

#8661 6 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

durzel did we have a post a few pages back regarding splint numbers for other games like IM etc?

Tron - 1 piece for Z, U, E stand ups and 2 piece for the S target

IM - 1 piece for drone targets and 2 piece for both whiplash targets.

I personally use the 1 piece for them all but that requires desoldering the target to get it on and resoldering the wires back on the target.

#8672 6 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Free? I hadn’t heard of thingiverse until your post, so I learnt something new there. So stupid question number 2 - I assume the file can be downloaded and these printed locally? Or do you send them out?
Reason I ask is yours look better than the ones certain venders are trying to sell for $5+ yet are twice as thin!

They don't appear to be twice as thin. They look wider than the other ones but not as thick (no back brace). These do look like a great option for those places where you have plenty of space though. I'm surprised they would fit on the magneto targets as the Mezel ones barely fit their and aren't nearly as wide (from the pics at least). Originally we tried to make them like that but had to add the back to keep the structure solid and small enough to fit in tight spaces.

No skin in the game since I sold my rights about 2 years ago but I do agree the cost has gotten up their. They used to be half that price and more in line where I felt the value was

#8684 6 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Anyone know what to do to reduce power on the eject coil for the shooter lane?
Mine fires the ball like a rocket, thank goodness there’s a metal bracket there, I get a super “crack” every time the ball goes to the shooter

Only way is to put a weaker coil on it.

#8708 6 months ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Anyone know where I could get an extra set of ramps and just the tubing for the Eli's kit?

Tubing is generic and easy to find. You'll just need to measure yours. I swapped my LE ones with clear.

It is like this but I don't recall the size. You'll have to measure the size of your light box and order that size.

amazon.com link »

For ramps, we may need a vault edition as I don't think any vendors have them both.

#8711 6 months ago

Where did you crack it? Was it under the metal flap at the entrance or on the walls? You can use CA glue to re-adhere plastic pretty well. If it's cracked you'll want to do something to at least try and keep it from spreading so at min I would either do the above or mylar that area to help hold it all together.

Replacing the light tubes is a very doable DIY process and serves for a great time to shop the game since you have to remove the ramps anyways to do it efficiently. Just make sure you have a bag of small clear zip ties (a pack of 50) and, if you don't already have some, heat shrink tube that is just a smidgen bigger than the light tube. Use it to cover the tube that is under the PF which will help a lot with light bleed.

#8714 6 months ago

For corners that don't wrap I use black.

1 week later
#8772 5 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just installed a new, freshly oiled disk motor. Original worked fine, but was starting to make noise. Also finally upgraded from black to translucent disk rubber...the ball movement is scary! TRON LE is a masterpiece.
[quoted image]

That disc is a game changer. I highly recommend the resistor trick when adding it. Still get the crazy spin and extra action but loses some of the "oh crap that's going to break stuff" feeling.

Quoted from Spyk:

Got it. Had to Dremel the screw but not satisfied with the brightness of these coin rejects. Any ways to fix that?
[quoted image]

Not sure you will get what you are after with those coin mechs. The problem is they aren't smooth and are grained so it will never look real shiny. In order to get that same look you will need to make them smooth and then plate them.

#8774 5 months ago

No, but you may reach out to Herg. He was the one that posted the idea and he also sells pinball stuff so may be willing to make some. It's really easy to do though. Just buy one male and one female IDC plug and the inserts that go to them and the resistors of your choice. Just snip the ends of the resistors to fit, crimp, solder and push them into the plug.

Link to his post - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-tron-lovefest-thread-i-love-it-more-than-lamp/page/154#post-4366853

2 weeks later
#8805 5 months ago

The tubes will bend and they are designed to. My advice, don't stress about that part.

Now, only real advice. Get some heat shrink tube that is just slightly larger than you tube. Cover the tube that is under the PF with the heat shrink tube to block off the light under the PF. Prevents light bleed in some of the inserts.

2 weeks later
#8814 4 months ago

That looks like a fuse if what I'm seeing is correct.

But to answer the question. The ceramic resistors for the spinning disc are needed. If you bypass them it will spin to max RPM which could damage some things. Some of us, especially with the clear disc, are adding more resistors inline to slow it down even more.

1 month later
#8858 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

When I bought my Tron LE the two light cycles were (and still are) connected to the GI on the backboard using crocodile clips. I'm going to be fitting a power tap this weekend to power a Flynn sign, and probably some other mods too. I would like to rewire these cycles to connect using 3-pin Molex connectors to this power tap (which is connected to the aux power connection).
I assume these cycles should be wired for 5v instead of 12v? They seem to be reasonably bright already using whatever the GI voltage is..

I can't recommend this enough for Tron especially due to all the add ons for the game.


3 weeks later
#8909 89 days ago
Quoted from vulcan903:

Hi all, just did diagnostics on my Tron. Came up with D22 EOS right flipper. When I looked I notice its missing a leaf as the left hand has 3 contacts, the right has two. Is this the issue?
Also got check switch #22 through jam. Can some kind folk tell me where this is please!
[quoted image]

Yes, that is most definitely an issue.

1 week later
#8925 81 days ago
Quoted from Stones:

Ok....I know this has been covered before, but the spinning disk isnt spitting the balls out very fast. Did i miss out by not ordering rhe clear disk?

The clear disc is pretty cool but it can be a bit to much for some so hard to say you are missing out. If you liked how your original disc was and now it's just not cutting it anymore, just get a new one from pinball life and be back in business.

#8954 79 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I wish there was a halfway house between the clear and black. I don't want to trash my Tron LE with supersonic balls or even just wear the playfield down with insane spin, but I would like to do away with the black crap around the orbits...
[quoted image]

Two options then really.

Go with the blue disc. It's the same type of materiel so wont come off like the factory disc and is less sticky so wont do as much with the ball. Or, go with the clear disc and add the extra resistors inline before the motor. I did this after putting the clear disc on and it's just about perfect for me. Still good action but not the, "oh crap" action to where I thought it was going to break something. You get the better light show (LE has blue and red lights under the disc) as well and no more black mark outside of normal black dust from the coils.

#8956 79 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I’ve yet to track down the correct LED so I can replace 2 of the 4 reds with blues on a Pro.
I asked Stern - they were adamant it shipped with incandescents under the disc... so my LED type/supplier request didn’t really get very far.

Pretty sure the Pro and LE's were incandescent under the disc factory. I'm using these in the 89 base on my LE. https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smdflash.htm

I see you are on the other side of the pond though but I'd have to assume their are these same types of bulbs there as well.

2 weeks later
#9029 65 days ago
Quoted from Aurich:

If you can both afford and find an LE get it. Can't lose, it's got nice features.
That said, having a modded Pro myself and I've played a lot of LEs and I actually prefer the aftermarket fiber optics on the Pros, they look better when they're off since they're clear and not milky, and I think light a little better.
You basically can't lose, but ramp lights are essential. I wouldn't play the game without them, that's how much they add to the experience.

I actually swapped out my factory fiber optic tubes for clear ones on my LE. Got some slightly larger diameter side glows. I LOVE IT. Clear when off and light up cleaner and more vibrant. Best $100 I spent on the game and it was pretty easy to do.

Adding a comparison. I hate the after pic as I went overboard with Ice Blue lights then and have since backed way off that but you get the idea on the ramps.

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
#9032 65 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here's the complete list of LE goodies:
1 - Daft Punk Multiball
2 - Silver around PF inserts
3 - Drop targets instead of standups
4 - Moving Recognizer
5 - Color changing lighted ramps
6 - LED insert PCBs
7 - Alternating color flashers under the spinner
8 - Individually controlled recognizer inserts in front of the 3 target
9 - Chrome trim
10 - Metal apron with clear blue windows w/ flashers
11 - Metal PF rails
12 - Traditional lockdown bar and receiver
13 - LE numbered plaque on back box and signed certificate of authenticity
14 - Hologram sticker on translite
Still the most played game in my collection. Had a 19 year old over yesterday...first time he's ever played a "real" pinball machines (he has played phone app simulations). He played for about 2-3 hours and TRON was his favorite. Always curious to see what newbie's gravitate toward. TRON is only of those rare games that appeal to both new & experienced players.

15 - Extra Callouts during game play
16 - Single slot Coin Door (still no clue why they did this)
17 - (rumor here that I can't confirm) - Signed PF's got an extra coat of clear

Not LE exclusive but Not all Pro's received:
- Direct print cabs (early pro's had this but most are decaled)
- 3D translight (1st run pros had this as well but 2nd (Clue) and 3rd (Girls) didn't)
- Light Cycles above rams. not sure which run of the Pro's this changed to one light cycle and one car but think it was the 3rd run

1 month later
#9056 32 days ago

Reseat the connector on the through opto boards. Sometimes a flaky one there can cause it to fire twice. Mainly the jam switch.

Also, check to make sure the switch in the shooter lane is registering properly. Being a Stern I would be very surprised if the above isn't the issue as that seems to always pop up.

1 week later
#9068 20 days ago
Quoted from jp335i:

Anyone have the original TRON Mini Arcade they are willing to sell? Looking for a like new original one that maybe someone has taken off when they upgraded.

Are you looking for the stern one or the original that plays the animated game. I have that one if you are interested. I'll need to plug it in to make sure it all works. Mine came with version 4 when I bought it but an older version was already installed.

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