(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than lamp!


By centerflank

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,656 posts
  • 500 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by evileye
  • Topic is favorited by 144 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 415 votes
    72%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 101 votes
    18%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 60 votes
    10%

(576 votes)

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There are 9656 posts in this topic. You are on page 171 of 194.
#8501 1 year ago

Welcome to the grid

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#8502 1 year ago

Welcome to the grid

1D0CDE42-601C-4BCA-9117-B6EFB5BB6574 (resized).jpeg877F5E9E-60E9-4204-8529-1535BD6010AD (resized).jpeg
#8503 1 year ago

!

1 week later
#8504 1 year ago

Sark drives a Jeep!

20181109_151514 (resized).jpg
#8505 1 year ago

Just got an email.......they made another batch of the Tron arcades....

http://www.usbjig.com/tronminicab.html

Just ordered mine!

#8506 1 year ago

So painfully expensive, but so cool.

#8507 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

So painfully expensive, but so cool.

My favorite mod so far!

#8508 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

So painfully expensive, but so cool.

Seems reasonable compared to most mods. People spend hundreds on toppers which are sometimes just lasercut plastic.

#8509 1 year ago

All of the files and info is available to make your own Tron mini cab including Eli's 3GDL code which runs on the display, but it's just a ton of work to make all the pieces and assemble them. It is expensive but the price seems in line with the work put in to them.

#8510 1 year ago

very intricate mod; i'd pay for one, if mine didn't come with it already. a must have, imo.

#8511 1 year ago

Don't get me wrong, I love it. Mine came with one already fitted and if it hadn't I would've bought one. It's that good that it's omission is noteworthy.

I do however think that objectively a lot of money. That other mods that do less cost the same or more doesn't change that, although it does establish that the market is willing to bear these prices.

That being said, in the world of mods it is worth the money, if that makes sense (eg relative to a $475 slot machine for TZ that's a resprayed pencil sharpener)

#8512 1 year ago

Agreed, that little arcade is a value when you consider your ability as a player to interact/see it. There are a lot of mods out there with low value. An Aerosmith topper is 430 shipped! Cool sure, worth that hell no.
This arcade, eli's ramps and the MikeD creature mod are my favorite game changers...

#8513 1 year ago

TRON rules the mod market.

#8514 1 year ago

I dont spend a lot on mods....so have no problem spending a little extra on this mod

#8515 1 year ago
Quoted from ZEN:

Agreed, that little arcade is a value when you consider your ability as a player to interact/see it. There are a lot of mods out there with low value. An Aerosmith topper is 430 shipped! Cool sure, worth that hell no.
This arcade, eli's ramps and the MikeD creature mod are my favorite game changers...

Only thing I'd add to your short mod list is Jeff's CFTBL light panel mod. Maybe not quite a game changer, but impressive nonetheless.

#8516 1 year ago

Hello fellow Tron owners; I just joined the club this weekend! I have been wanting Tron for a couple of years and I finally pulled the trigger on a fully modded one for sale at the Grand Ole Gameroom Expo by the guys at Music City Pinball.

I have been reading through the forum, but I still have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer easily:
1. Is there an easy way to tell which ramp lighting kit I have? It changes colors with the different modes, so I'm guessing it's total light show?
2. My fluorescent tube light went out in the backbox. Should I replace it or are there some better options out there for switching to LED or other?
3. One of my light cycles doesn't light up. I checked the connections and everything seems fine, so I guess it is the LED inside. Is this common and easily replaceable?

Thanks!

#8517 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

2. My fluorescent tube light went out in the backbox. Should I replace it or are there some better options out there for switching to LED or other?

I have been wanting to try one of these since it's plug and play and doesn't require removal of ballast or starter however haven't gotten around to ordering one yet.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/200388/GREENCREATIVE-97841.html

#8518 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

1. Is there an easy way to tell which ramp lighting kit I have?

Yes, if you have a red PCB called a Matrix Interceptor in the back box it’s a Total Lightshow.

#8519 1 year ago

one of my bikes is a little wonky. i have to jiggle the wire every once in a while to fix it. can the bulb get loose in there? i haven't investigated that much into it.

#8520 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

one of my bikes is a little wonky. i have to jiggle the wire every once in a while to fix it. can the bulb get loose in there? i haven't investigated that much into it.

I would first double check the solder points where the wires connect to the battery terminals.

#8521 1 year ago

batteries?!

#8522 1 year ago

Battery terminals. The Hallmark light cycles are designed to be powered by batteries. When wiring them up to Tron the wires are typically soldered to the battery terminals (and batteries are removed of course).

#8523 1 year ago

interesting; ty.

#8524 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

interesting; ty.

Just remembered another potential problem area - the pushbutton on top. Some people glue these buttons down to keep the lights on when it has power and this glue can come loose, you can try pressing in the button to see if it lights up the cycle and that's your problem. The proper way to wire these up IMO is by modifying the wiring to the button so the cycle is always-on by removing the button from the circuit so it doesn't need to be glued down which can fail over time.

#8525 1 year ago

there's a button!? lol. sorry, these were on the game when i got it, so i have no idea.

#8526 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

there's a button!? lol. sorry, these were on the game when i got it, so i have no idea.

Top center right between the shoulder blades.

#8527 1 year ago

I posted some info and a tear-down a few years back. It might give you some insight to the operation/hook-up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-hallmark-light-cycle-tear-down-pictures-to-investigate-led-replacement

#8528 1 year ago

What's the secret to getting consistent credit from shots to the spinning disc? Mine has gotten to where about half the time I don't get credit for my shots. I've tried using q-tips through the metal holes to try and clean the optos, which look painful to get to otherwise. Has anyone had to trouble shoot a similar problem, or replace the optos, who would like to share their insight?

#8529 1 year ago
Quoted from taz:

What's the secret to getting consistent credit from shots to the spinning disc? Mine has gotten to where about half the time I don't get credit for my shots. I've tried using q-tips through the metal holes to try and clean the optos, which look painful to get to otherwise. Has anyone had to trouble shoot a similar problem, or replace the optos, who would like to share their insight?

How does it respond during switch test when you wave your finger through the beam?

#8530 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

How does it respond during switch test when you wave your finger through the beam?

I think I've got it fixed now, but only time will tell. I took the two screws out mounting the left opto in place, tinkered with it a bit as best I could with not much access, and then reinstalled the screws. I didn't think to run the opto switch, #41, test before tinkering though. However, the beam breaks 100% in test and play since then. I don't know if that will take care of whatever the problem was long term or not. Maybe a mounting screw was loose or some foreign matter was blocking a part of the beam? Thanks for the advice.

#8531 1 year ago

I'm thinking of replacing the fluorescent backbox light in my Tron Pro with an interactive LED kit. I've found some different options so far...any opinions or thoughts on these?
- $270 Stern Custom Deluxe Interactive LED Backbox Kit by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $227 TRON PINBALL LED STRIP BACKBOX LIGHT KIT by Lermods https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/01240-tron-pinball-led-strip-backbox-light-kit-
- $200 Stern Custom LED Backbox Kit (S.A.M.) by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $149 STERN INTERACTIVE BACKBOX MOD by Rock Custom Pinball https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00732-stern-interactive-backbox-mod
- $125-$225(Interactive) Stern TRON with Two Women Enhanced Animated LED Backbox Light Replacement. "Two Versions" Dimmable https://flipperfidelity.com/lighting/animated-led-backbox-light-replacement-panels/stern-tron-animated-led-replacement-panel.html
- $64 Dimming Backbox Panel http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160

#8532 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

I'm thinking of replacing the fluorescent backbox light in my Tron Pro with an interactive LED kit. I've found 4 options so far...any opinions or thoughts on these?
- $270 Stern Custom Deluxe Interactive LED Backbox Kit by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $227 TRON PINBALL LED STRIP BACKBOX LIGHT KIT by Lermods https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/01240-tron-pinball-led-strip-backbox-light-kit-
- $200 Stern Custom LED Backbox Kit (S.A.M.) by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $149 STERN INTERACTIVE BACKBOX MOD by Rock Custom Pinball https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00732-stern-interactive-backbox-mod

Flipper Fidelity also makes one. I always thought it was nice and believe has was the first to have the chasing lights on the portal.

#8533 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

I'm thinking of replacing the fluorescent backbox light in my Tron Pro with an interactive LED kit. I've found 4 options so far...any opinions or thoughts on these?
- $270 Stern Custom Deluxe Interactive LED Backbox Kit by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $227 TRON PINBALL LED STRIP BACKBOX LIGHT KIT by Lermods https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/01240-tron-pinball-led-strip-backbox-light-kit-
- $200 Stern Custom LED Backbox Kit (S.A.M.) by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $149 STERN INTERACTIVE BACKBOX MOD by Rock Custom Pinball https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00732-stern-interactive-backbox-mod

Not on your list but the offering from Arcade Upkeep is what I use on my SAM games. It has 2 user-defined settings for brightness during gameplay and during attract mode and is less expensive at $65. It doesn't have fancy features like custom flashers or different colors, but if you just want a great replacement for the fluorescent tube then it's fantastic.

http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160

#8534 1 year ago
Quoted from BoJo:

Flipper Fidelity also makes one

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Not on your list but the offering from Arcade Upkeep is what I use on my SAM games

Thanks, I've added both of these to the list!

#8535 1 year ago

i bought a portal animation kit from duder on here, 85vett. it's pretty cool and was only ~$50-55, i think. not sure if he has anymore, however.

#8536 1 year ago

Anyone installed PinGraffix BladeSkins? They look great, but just wondering how tight they would be.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/tron-bladeskins

#8537 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

Anyone installed PinGraffix BladeSkins? They look great, but just wondering how tight they would be.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/tron-bladeskins

I have them in mine. I also have them in my iron Man.

You need to make sure they are installed perfectly flat. The screw on a very rare occasion can catch the playfield ege when lifting, so just need to be super careful.

It is different on every build though, as my iron Man has zero issue.

Tolerances for stern cabs can be slightly off. But I'd say if you're willing to drop the coin on these blades, they are amazing.

#8538 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

Thanks, I've added both of these to the list!

Just make sure you purchase the correct kit for your translite. Tron had 3 different translites and some of these are designed for specific ones. If you have the original then this is my favorite since the lights move up the portal.

https://flipperfidelity.com/stern-tron-3d-animated-led-replacement-panel.html

#8539 1 year ago

I made my own back panel for about 20 bucks worth of stuff..its not too hard, there is a good thread on here somewhere

#8540 1 year ago
Quoted from foobeer:

I'm thinking of replacing the fluorescent backbox light in my Tron Pro with an interactive LED kit. I've found some different options so far...any opinions or thoughts on these?
- $270 Stern Custom Deluxe Interactive LED Backbox Kit by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $227 TRON PINBALL LED STRIP BACKBOX LIGHT KIT by Lermods https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/01240-tron-pinball-led-strip-backbox-light-kit-
- $200 Stern Custom LED Backbox Kit (S.A.M.) by CoinTaker https://cointaker.com/products/2-stern-custom-led-backbox-kit
- $149 STERN INTERACTIVE BACKBOX MOD by Rock Custom Pinball https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00732-stern-interactive-backbox-mod
- $125-$225(Interactive) Stern TRON with Two Women Enhanced Animated LED Backbox Light Replacement. "Two Versions" Dimmable https://flipperfidelity.com/lighting/animated-led-backbox-light-replacement-panels/stern-tron-animated-led-replacement-panel.html
- $64 Dimming Backbox Panel http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160

Depends what your looking for?

Do you want a direct replacement for the fluorescent tube?

An animated portal chase light?

Or are you looking for the ever popular skittles effect for your translite with a colour changing kit?

#8541 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Not on your list but the offering from Arcade Upkeep is what I use on my SAM games. It has 2 user-defined settings for brightness during gameplay and during attract mode and is less expensive at $65. It doesn't have fancy features like custom flashers or different colors, but if you just want a great replacement for the fluorescent tube then it's fantastic.
http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160

Great recommendation! Not stupidly priced like most of the backbox kits out there and keeps the natural lighting of the backbox, plus there dimmable modules are brilliant!!

#8542 1 year ago

Grid bug squashed!
Tron rebooted & operating nominally!

Not a loose switch.
Not a misaligned disc opto.
Not bad wiring.
Not a bad switch diode.

The.
Trough.
Opto.
PCB.

One of the consistent misbehaving switches (regardless of presence of balls in trough & regardless of 3-bank position) was that the Trough Jam switch was always closed.
Unplugging the trough opto PCB made everything else behave.
So, new trough opto Rx PCB from Pinball Life & all's well!

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from jasonbar:

Entered the grid last night to try to exterminate the grid bugs that are wonking up my recognizer & disc.
Found some interesting switch matrix behavior.
Does this sound like an issue w/ a switch diode, wiring, the switch matrix chip on the MPU, other?
There's some weird correlation between row 2 & row 4 of the switch matrix. If a switch in row 2 is closed, then the corresponding row 4 switch in the same column will also close. And vice versa.
Example: When Trough #4 at row 2 column 2 is closed, then Recognizer 3-Bank at row 4 column 2 is also closed.
This explains why my 3-bank was dropping instantly--the trough switches are in the same columns as the Recognizer 3-Bank switches & the 3-Bank Motor Up/Down switches.
In self-test, even the many unused switches in row 4 show as closed when their corresponding switches in row 2 are closed (Shooter Lane, Left Outlane, etc.). See attached 2.JPG (which shows 4 balls in trough, w/ 4 corresponding switches in row 2 also closed).
Exception #1: closing Trough Jam at row 2 column 6 does not make the unused switch #54 at row 4 column 6 close. I'm guessing because Trough Jam is an opto.
Exception #2: closing Left Ramp exit switch #37 at row 3 column 5 will also close switches #34, #35, & #36 (which are all on row 3).
Other observations:
- If the 3-bank is down & switch #52 is closed as it should be, all switches seem to behave except Trough 2 switch #20 (2 above on matrix) is stuck closed.
- If the 3-bank is up & switch #53 is closed as it should be, & if there is a ball closing Trough 2 switch #20, then switch #52 is also falsely closed, & the game thinks that the 3-bank up & the 3-bank switches are both closed, hence the odd bank behavior. See attached 1.JPG.
Phew!
Any help appreciated.
If not for me, then do it for my 6yo son, who's playing the heck out of my machines these days! :]

12
#8543 1 year ago

Only 10 years late, but got this installed tonight. Absolute must have.....

20181117_193219 (resized).jpg
#8544 1 year ago
Quoted from Stones:

Only 10 years late, but got this installed tonight. Absolute must have.....[quoted image]

One of the best mods in pinball.

#8545 1 year ago
Quoted from Stones:

Only 10 years late, but got this installed tonight. Absolute must have.....[quoted image]

Wow I didn’t realise there where still TRONs out there without this mod, you will love it makes such a difference and worth every penny.

Quoted from brett:

One of the best mods in pinball.

+1 without a doubt one of the very few must have mods!

#8546 1 year ago

Today I installed a customized 4 bank cliffy protector behind the drop targets.

I think the game needs this and it looks good too.

5CE1894D-38DF-4A6A-85F4-49F35E55AF6E (resized).jpegD6796A12-9B73-48FB-94AE-2BBBE5B297E0 (resized).jpeg

#8547 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

I used 2x Xicon 280-CR10-3.0-RC, 3 Ohm, 10W, wirewound resistors. They're cheap enough that I would suggest getting multiple values to try. I tried pairs of 1-5 Ohms and settled on the 3 Ohm. I added connectors and just plugged in between the motor and harness.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/280-CR10-30-RC?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhQnyZb%252bcSQhYMJQhy5oStP3USc4tFqbPCBhu0X%252bhlkSg%3d%3d
[quoted image]

Hi,
how did you connect the resistor with the connector, by soldering?
Did you check the temperature of the resistors after intensive gameplay, are they becoming hot?

Greetings from Southtirol(Italy)

#8548 1 year ago
Quoted from hwol:

Hi,
how did you connect the resistor with the connector, by soldering?
Did you check the temperature of the resistors after intensive gameplay, are they becoming hot?
Greetings from Southtirol(Italy)

A properly done crimp is enough, but you could follow up with solder if you wanted.

I have not checked the temperature, but they are chosen to handle the current. We're only talking about 0.5A or so. If we go conservative and say 1A, over 3 ohms, that's 3W being dissipated. They're rated for 10W.

#8549 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

A properly done crimp is enough, but you could follow up with solder if you wanted.
I have not checked the temperature, but they are chosen to handle the current. We're only talking about 0.5A or so. If we go conservative and say 1A, over 3 ohms, that's 3W being dissipated. They're rated for 10W.

Many thx for your quick an exhaustive answer!
I wish you a nice day,
Wolfgang

#8550 1 year ago

Black Friday sale NOS Tron 3D translites for $200 shipped in the U.S.

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