(Topic ID: 54093)

Official TRON lovefest thread, I love it more than Lightning Kitty.


By centerflank

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,251 posts
  • 466 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by snaroff
  • Topic is favorited by 139 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Is TRON super awesome or are you a hater?”

  • TRON is unreal, centerflank is supersmart. 394 votes
    71%
  • TRON blows, voters for this option have a small dingy :( 102 votes
    18%
  • Never played TRON, but if Centerflank likes it, it must be fun!!!! 59 votes
    11%

(555 votes)

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There are 9251 posts in this topic. You are on page 160 of 186.
#7951 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Some progress made on my translight. Total cost so far is $40 and about 2 hours in labor soldering the lights up. Tied into 5v on my pig.

Very cool.

#7952 1 year ago

I'm probably being a bit simple but I don't have that white board behind my translite, I just have a (rather nondescript) office style light bar that runs across the middle behind it that illuminates the whole thing. My translite ccomes off to reveal all of the electronics directly behind. I have an LE if it matters.

How do you get a setup where you've got individual LEDs and that awesome LED strip?

#7953 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'm probably being a bit simple but I don't have that white board behind my translite, I just have a (rather nondescript) office style light bar that runs across the middle behind it that illuminates the whole thing. My translite ccomes off to reveal all of the electronics directly behind. I have an LE if it matters.
How do you get a setup where you've got individual LEDs and that awesome LED strip?

That white board is aftermarket, you can use different materials to build your own or buy a pre-made version. There are different versions available from multiple sellers, some are just a backlight replacement, some include flashing sections tied to game flashers, etc.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-make-an-led-backbox-for-30-for-modern-sterns

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-make-flashers-or-under-cabinet-lighting-for-15-for-modern-sterns#post-1814253

#7954 1 year ago

Thanks very much

#7955 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Some progress made on my translight. Total cost so far is $40 and about 2 hours in labor soldering the lights up. Tied into 5v on my pig.

Damn.......as much as I love my Quorra & Gem translite you going to make me put in the 3D translite......

#7956 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

First time ever on Tron getting portal without needing sea of simulation during double scoring. 100 million bonus for doing so. I'm not beating that for a while.
Holy crap that was a rush.

Well that's impressive! A timely double scoring no doubt.

I'll make my next goal to do "Portal before Sea" kind of like "Rock before Bash" on monster bash. Both Lyman games so I guess the rules style carried over.

#7957 1 year ago

FYI. Just saw the girl trans-light is showing "in stock" at marco. I know it's desirable so figured I'd post here in-case someone wanted one. Could be 1 or more that they have. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/830-52B9-11

Quoted from Durzel:

I'm probably being a bit simple but I don't have that white board behind my translite, I just have a (rather nondescript) office style light bar that runs across the middle behind it that illuminates the whole thing. My translite ccomes off to reveal all of the electronics directly behind. I have an LE if it matters.
How do you get a setup where you've got individual LEDs and that awesome LED strip?

Snakesnsparklers covered it mainly but yes, my game was the same. I removed the light tube and replaced it with this.

Quoted from J85M:

85vett that’s possibly the best version of animating the Portal I’ve seen, can you do a step by step and list what you used or you can make some kits and send one my way

Of course. I'm not entirely against making some but I'm very hesitant to do so as I can't absorb the financial responsibility of potentially messing something up on someones game. Since you would be installing aftermarket lighting their is always that risk That and it was pretty labor intensive since I didn't want to use light strips for the lights outside of the Portal section. I went the path of trying to mirror the old Bally/Williams style lighting boards. It's not hard/complicated work, just labor intensive due to the soldiering involved. I'll do a write up and post it here later. I kind of want to add a couple flashers into it as well but I just can't think of where to put them and what to tie them into. The ramp flashers and disc flashers seem obvious but where to put them on the board is where I'm stuck right now. Would like to add some effects but also want things to be subtle and not gaudy too.

#7958 1 year ago

I went through the links that Snakesnsparklers provided and I think that just about covers how to make the light board so I wont step by step that process. I'll just outline the differences I did and the parts list I had.

Parts:
- Foam core poster board (cut to the size of the translight)
- mounting hardware for the board (same as the link Snakesnsparklers provided)
- LED light kit - amazon.com link » (this is what is used to make the chase effect)
- 9 Ice Blue, 10 Natural White, 6 Sun Light Frosted 555 LED's (I went with Frosted to limit the chance of hot spots on the translight) http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
- 22 AWG for the lights. Bought a 65 foot roll for $7 - amazon.com link »
- two 6 pin IDC connectors - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1598
- One 6 pin Z connector - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2887
- One Female .093" Pin and Socket Plug Housing (3 pin connector) - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4359
- Two Molex .093" Male Connector Pins 18-22awg - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3893

For Wiring:
- I mapped out the light locations that I wanted. I did this by tracing the main parts of the PF over to my poster board. I used a spare translight piece of glass I have by laying it over the Tron translight and tracing the character outlines. I then moved over to the poster board and used it as a template. Probably would have been easier using wax paper and just poking holes through it in the locations I wanted. Hind sight is always 20/20 though. I went with the colors I did as I wanted to enhance the factory translight colors, keep things subtle and not get that christmas tree effect. The sunlight bulbs were meant to bring out the yellows of the translight and the Ice blue was to bring out the blues a bit. It's your translight so here you can chose the colors you want though.
- After locating where I wanted the lights to go I drilled holes in the poster board that was the size of the LED housing. This allowed me to push them through the hole and hold them in place fairly snugly. I still put a dab of hot glue on the back to keep them in place long term.
- Now that all the lights are mount it was time to wire them up. I decided to daisy chain the lights. I did this by bending the leads from the LED's to be straight and then stripping away the insulation from the wire at each light. I solderied in the wires and pushed the wires down on opposite sides of the LED. I split the board in half and use one wire for the perimeter lights and one for the middle lights. Each of those two wires went to one of the IDC connectors.
- Once I was happy with the wiring I hot glued over all the bare wire to eliminate the risk of a short if something touched them.
- The chase effect light strip was next. it is powered by a 6V batter pack or a 5V USB plug. I cut the plug off the adapter off the harness which opened up to a + and - wire. I extended the wire long enough to reach the 6 pin IDC connector that the other two light wires went to and used the supplied tap to adhere the strip to the poster board. This kit has several different programmed effects so I just had to select the one I wanted before mounting it. It retains that setting as long as you don't change it so no remote is necessary.
- The wiring from the lights to the IDC connector is now completed. I made it long enough to where the wire would reach to the hole in the back of the cabinet behind the DMD.
- For the other 6 pin IDC connector I installed the two male .093 plugs and installed them into the female plug. Make sure you put them in the correct holes though. On my Pig the ground is the top and the 5V is the middle plug. 12V is the bottom so using that would blow the LED's (like what I did on my light cycle first attempt ). The other end goes to the other 6 pin IDC connector. I daisy chained the + and - to match the LED light wires locations. Doing things this way allows me to remove the panel via this plug vs having to feed the wire in and out of the cab anytime it needs to be removed.

I hope this gives a decent idea of what was done. If anyone has questions let me know and I'll do my best to help with those.

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#7959 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Would like to add some effects but also want things to be subtle and not gaudy too.

Imo the end result is perfect, the only thing maybe you could do with flashers is make the sky flash (there was lighting in the film) or make the less behind the discs chase.

Funny enough when I read your post above a link at the bottom of the thread showed a gaudy, Christmas tree backbox kit, Flynn looks like an umpa lumpa with yellow skin

#7960 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Some progress made on my translight. Total cost so far is $40 and about 2 hours in labor soldering the lights up. Tied into 5v on my pig.

You inspired me to add the lights to mine!

#7961 1 year ago

Could a person just do a single strip of the chasing LED effect for the middle without all of the other lights? I mainly am interested in the portal effect (though the other lights look great as well)....

#7962 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Could a person just do a single strip of the chasing LED effect for the middle without all of the other lights? I mainly am interested in the portal effect (though the other lights look great as well)....

This is exactly what I did.

I'm still using the factory fluro

#7963 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

This is exactly what I did.
I'm still using the factory fluro

Can you post some pics with translite removed? Looks great!

#7964 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

This is exactly what I did.
I'm still using the factory fluro

Now there's a reasonable mod idea. Some sort of bracket that attaches to the bulb itself that holds the light strip. That as a plug and play solution should be fairly cheap too

Anyone up for it, if not, I'll brainstorm some ideas to see if I can come up with something.

#7965 1 year ago

I would love that, I am able to make something myself but need to know what strip and controller is used for that effect?

#7966 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I would love that, I am able to make something myself but need to know what strip and controller is used for that effect?

A parts list was given in a previous post #7958 by 85vett that shows the LED strip....

#7967 1 year ago

This is the LED strip I used - amazon.com link »

I wish I could find a source of just the micro controller used in the kit. You only need about a foot of the LED strip so the rest goes to waste without another controller.

#7968 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

This is the LED strip I used - amazon.com link »
I wish I could find a source of just the micro controller used in the kit. You only need about a foot of the LED strip so the rest goes to waste without another controller.

Have you checked eBay? search for 2812 LED controller brings up numerous versions......

#7969 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Now there's a reasonable mod idea. Some sort of bracket that attaches to the bulb itself that holds the light strip. That as a plug and play solution should be fairly cheap too
Anyone up for it, if not, I'll brainstorm some ideas to see if I can come up with something.

I agree it would be much easier to just go with the center strip only and would seem fairly straight forward. If you come up with specific ideas for the bracket mount please let me know!

#7970 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Have you checked eBay? search for 2812 LED controller brings up numerous versions......

That helped. I ordered 10 to see if they work. Coming from China so may be several weeks though but thanks for the tip.

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I agree it would be much easier to just go with the center strip only and would seem fairly straight forward. If you come up with specific ideas for the bracket mount please let me know!

I've got an idea in using a plastic clip on the bulb itself with something to hold it straight at the top of the backpanel.

#7971 1 year ago

For my "keepers" replacing that Fluorescent tube is on the list of to-dos, due to the uneven lighting they have as well as the long-term effects of the UV from the tube causing deterioration of the translite and the plastic connectors in the backbox. 85vett's chasing light strip mod has just accelerated the implementation of tube replacement work on my TRON......

#7972 1 year ago

Spotted at the local gas station. He lives! And fights for the users!

05076ACE-BE1C-4E5F-AFAB-8DA9A8B2FA1E (resized).jpeg5A832901-3813-498E-8DCC-DED8CDF1076A (resized).jpeg
#7973 1 year ago

Going to take the ramps off my LE soon to clean & wax around the back of the playfield where I can't easily reach.

Was debating about flame polishing the ramps while I have them off. They're not bad, but some of the videos I've seen make it look like they can end up looking better than new.

Having never done it before, is this a bad idea? Can anyone tell me if they've flame polished Tron ramps without any ill effects like warping?

I assume I would definitely be best advised to remove all of the LE fibre optics, flashers, switches, etc?

#7974 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Going to take the ramps off my LE soon to clean & wax around the back of the playfield where I can't easily reach.
Was debating about flame polishing the ramps while I have them off. They're not bad, but some of the videos I've seen make it look like they can end up looking better than new.
Having never done it before, is this a bad idea? Can anyone tell me if they've flame polished Tron ramps without any ill effects like warping?
I assume I would definitely be best advised to remove all of the LE fibre optics, flashers, switches, etc?

Please don't take this the wrong way as it's not meant to be derogatory, but with the questions you've asked it tells me you are fairly new to either pinball ownership or working on games in general. This being the case DO NOT attempt to try to flame polish your ramps. It is not hard to do but their is a very fine line between a crystal clear polish and a melted pile of plastic. These ramps are hard to find replacements for as well plus their is a lot of prep work to do before you actually get to the flame part (cleaning and buffing). Flame polishing is basically lightly melting the plastic to get all the very fine scratches out. Since you are in essence melting the surface of the ramp you can see real quick how it can go wrong very fast.

If you want to get into this I HIGHLY suggest getting some old junk ramps and start with that to get the tech down.

#7975 1 year ago

Thanks. No offence taken

I'm pretty new to pinballs, bought my first one (TZ) late last year.

I've been doing little bits of tinkering here and there, have rebuilt a slingshot on a friend's Funhouse and rebuilt the TZ clock, etc.

I've been reading up on the right way to do the ramps (i.e. making them very clean, etc). You're right that I should try it on a sacrificial ramp first, so will do that.

#7976 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. No offence taken
I'm pretty new to pinballs, bought my first one (TZ) late last year.
I've been doing little bits of tinkering here and there, have rebuilt a slingshot on a friend's Funhouse and rebuilt the TZ clock, etc.
I've been reading up on the right way to do the ramps (i.e. making them very clean, etc). You're right that I should try it on a sacrificial ramp first, so will do that.

Flame polishing is easy to do and also easy to screw up. Watch some youtube vids to get an idea of the technique to use (there is more than 1 way to do it), and as stated if you have a junk piece to practice on for your first time that's ideal.

#7977 1 year ago

I agree with what others have said about learning on an old ramp. If you can not source that, try scuffing up a piece of clear plastic (lexan or equivalent). You will soon learn the fine line of hot enough and too hot (warps, bubbles). Really does a nice job when done right, I flame polish ramps, clear playfields (like on Elvis), tops of plastics if scratched, etc.

#7978 1 year ago

Finally got the blue discs and the remainder of clear, so all remaining TRON orders will be sent out this coming week as I’m off work, so I’ll have plenty of time to get everyone pm’d with confirmation and tracking info!

#7979 1 year ago

I need the help of a fellow user, is there anyone on the grid close to Stern and able to drop by the factory?

#7980 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I went through the links that Snakesnsparklers provided and I think that just about covers how to make the light board so I wont step by step that process. I'll just outline the differences I did and the parts list I had.
Parts:
- Foam core poster board (cut to the size of the translight)
- mounting hardware for the board (same as the link Snakesnsparklers provided)
- LED light kit - amazon.com link » (this is what is used to make the chase effect)
- 9 Ice Blue, 10 Natural White, 6 Sun Light Frosted 555 LED's (I went with Frosted to limit the chance of hot spots on the translight) http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
- 22 AWG for the lights. Bought a 65 foot roll for $7 - amazon.com link »
- two 6 pin IDC connectors - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1598
- One 6 pin Z connector - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2887
- One Female .093" Pin and Socket Plug Housing (3 pin connector) - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4359
- Two Molex .093" Male Connector Pins 18-22awg - https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3893
For Wiring:
- I mapped out the light locations that I wanted. I did this by tracing the main parts of the PF over to my poster board. I used a spare translight piece of glass I have by laying it over the Tron translight and tracing the character outlines. I then moved over to the poster board and used it as a template. Probably would have been easier using wax paper and just poking holes through it in the locations I wanted. Hind sight is always 20/20 though. I went with the colors I did as I wanted to enhance the factory translight colors, keep things subtle and not get that christmas tree effect. The sunlight bulbs were meant to bring out the yellows of the translight and the Ice blue was to bring out the blues a bit. It's your translight so here you can chose the colors you want though.
- After locating where I wanted the lights to go I drilled holes in the poster board that was the size of the LED housing. This allowed me to push them through the hole and hold them in place fairly snugly. I still put a dab of hot glue on the back to keep them in place long term.
- Now that all the lights are mount it was time to wire them up. I decided to daisy chain the lights. I did this by bending the leads from the LED's to be straight and then stripping away the insulation from the wire at each light. I solderied in the wires and pushed the wires down on opposite sides of the LED. I split the board in half and use one wire for the perimeter lights and one for the middle lights. Each of those two wires went to one of the IDC connectors.
- Once I was happy with the wiring I hot glued over all the bare wire to eliminate the risk of a short if something touched them.
- The chase effect light strip was next. it is powered by a 6V batter pack or a 5V USB plug. I cut the plug off the adapter off the harness which opened up to a + and - wire. I extended the wire long enough to reach the 6 pin IDC connector that the other two light wires went to and used the supplied tap to adhere the strip to the poster board. This kit has several different programmed effects so I just had to select the one I wanted before mounting it. It retains that setting as long as you don't change it so no remote is necessary.
- The wiring from the lights to the IDC connector is now completed. I made it long enough to where the wire would reach to the hole in the back of the cabinet behind the DMD.
- For the other 6 pin IDC connector I installed the two male .093 plugs and installed them into the female plug. Make sure you put them in the correct holes though. On my Pig the ground is the top and the 5V is the middle plug. 12V is the bottom so using that would blow the LED's (like what I did on my light cycle first attempt ). The other end goes to the other 6 pin IDC connector. I daisy chained the + and - to match the LED light wires locations. Doing things this way allows me to remove the panel via this plug vs having to feed the wire in and out of the cab anytime it needs to be removed.
I hope this gives a decent idea of what was done. If anyone has questions let me know and I'll do my best to help with those.

Did you strip the cable to wire 5v before the USB connector on the light strip side or after the USB connector on the battery box side? Also, is the strip cuttable so you can customize the length specifically for the height of the backbox?

#7981 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Did you strip the cable to wire 5v before the USB connector on the light strip side or after the USB connector on the battery box side? Also, is the strip cuttable so you can customize the length specifically for the height of the backbox?

Stripped it just after the controller. Not using the battery box. When you cut and strip there you will see one black and red wire.

Yes, the led strip is curable approx every 1.5 inched.

I ordered 10 of those controllers to try and make some plug and play kits. Coming from China so probably another couple weeks

#7982 1 year ago

Hi everyone,

I recently picked up a Tron Pro. It didn't have any ramp illumination kit installed, so I was looking at getting one. I'm having trouble figuring out what kits are still available and where to get one. Most of the info I found on this is 4-5 years old.

It looks like pinbits is sold out of their ramp illumination kit. Are there any other suppliers for a high quality, well integrated kit? I'm not interested in one of the more basic EL wire ones that are just a solid color all the time.

Thanks

#7983 1 year ago
Quoted from DML1001:

Hi everyone,
I recently picked up a Tron Pro. It didn't have any ramp illumination kit installed, so I was looking at getting one. I'm having trouble figuring out what kits are still available and where to get one. Most of the info I found on this is 4-5 years old.
It looks like pinbits is sold out of their ramp illumination kit. Are there any other suppliers for a high quality, well integrated kit? I'm not interested in one of the more basic EL wire ones that are just a solid color all the time.
Thanks

timebandit does a Tron kit, called Total Lightshow. Bottom of this page:

https://redshiftled.com.au/Total-Lightshow.php

I have the Pinbits kit, just because I bought it a few years ago before the kit above was available. Pinbits’ stock does come and go. You can always contact them to ask. I’m honestly not sure which I’d buy now! Probably TL, because it’s still actively supported.

#7984 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Finally got the blue discs and the remainder of clear, so all remaining TRON orders will be sent out this coming week as I’m off work, so I’ll have plenty of time to get everyone pm’d with confirmation and tracking info!

YAY!

#7985 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

timebandit does a Tron kit, called Total Lightshow. Bottom of this page:
https://redshiftled.com.au/Total-Lightshow.php
I have the Pinbits kit, just because I bought it a few years ago before the kit above was available. Pinbits’ stock does come and go. You can always contact them to ask. I’m honestly not sure which I’d buy now! Probably TL, because it’s still actively supported.

Isn't timebandit the one that is building the ability to add drop targets as well? If I had a pro I would most likely go that route as the add on abilities of the TLS have proven to be very valuable. Just look at what they are doing with MET Pro's with it (getting the active grave marker to work for example).

i wouldn't be surprised if he couldn't get drops and the active recognizer to work with his kit.

#7986 1 year ago

And just an update. The LED controllers are still showing in China I will post once they come in and I've tested them to see if making a plug and play kit for the active portal animation is feasible.

#7987 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Isn't timebandit the one that is building the ability to add drop targets as well? If I had a pro I would most likely go that route as the add on abilities of the TLS have proven to be very valuable. Just look at what they are doing with MET Pro's with it (getting the active grave marker to work for example).
i wouldn't be surprised if he couldn't get drops and the active recognizer to work with his kit.

Drops are already supported. I wouldn't bother trying to add a moving recognizer to a Pro though, just my personal opinion.

#7988 1 year ago

Just joined the club. Machine is in great shape. Single owner HUO. I replaced all but a couple flashers with Comets Led, and waxed her up. what yall think? Its an early build Pro with NO mods. Yet.
20180702_150813[524] (resized).jpg

#7989 1 year ago

Wow, an original run unmodded pro. That's a unicorn right there. Congrats!

#7990 1 year ago

Got the code updated from the Stern website. Now to get a list together of to do mods.

#7991 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

because it’s still actively supported.

..and will be for a long while to come. I’m still developing add ons for it and doing new games. Code updates drop regularly.

#7992 1 year ago

Okay guys sorry for the delay but I had some family issues that I had to deal with this past week so pinball took a major back seat, all orders that haven’t already gone out for discs will be on their way at some point tomorrow - I will pm to confirm with tracking.

Again apologies for the delay but I had to prioritise the family and deal with things here asap.

#7993 1 year ago

Wow smoothbore19 you have a lot of mods to add. The very first mod I would do is the Eli Ramp mod. Not only does it help show you what mode you are in by color but it also looks really cool too. Here is a list of the mods I have on my Tron Pro and I love them all. You can go as crazy as you want. It's going to cost a lot so you might want to do a little at a time.

Tron might be the pin that has the most mods ever made in a pinball machine. Most Tron mods can still be found online but I think there is still a waiting list for the Tron Arcade cab mod. Not sure on that. The arcade cab is a very pricey but awesome mod. One of the best in pinball I think. New people still notice it when they come over.

Eli's Color Ramp mod
Shaker motor (if it doesn't have it)
Tron Arcade mod (w/ animated led screen)
Color DMD
Target Decals
Florescent orange and blue color plastic protectors
Add LEDs to the Recognizer
Swap out tiny Lightcycles with Halmark Cycles (with led wire mod)
Add Clu and 3 passenger Light Jet (diecast metal toys) - led them and use hard wire to mount
Clu Carrier (diecast metal toy) - led and use hard wire to mount
Flynn white retro lightcycle (add near plunger launch)
Zeus figure
Chrome style bumpers swap
Mirror Blades
LED flipper buttons
LED chase lights to back glass beam on Sam/Quora
Orange Zen plastic over Zen switch
Laser cut metal Tron Disk covers for speakers
LED color cycle for speakers
LED lights to entire playfield
Add bright LED flasher under the Arcade scoop hole. Flashes bright light in hole before the ball is ejected.
Swap crappy black rubber in disk spinner with white rubber spinner when it stops working as it should.
Encom logo on coindoor
LED color chase lights under pinball
Rules and Free Play instruction cards with cooler art such as Quora or Gem (print yourself)
Tron metal key chain for your pin keys
LED color change Plexi topper art (Pick your favorite)
Flynn LED sign (if you can find one)

Here is a quick vid of my table

Quoted from smoothbore19:

Got the code updated from the Stern website. Now to get a list together of to do mods.

#7994 1 year ago

Quick question what playgirl toys came with the first run machines? Was it two light cycles or one cycle and the car?

#7995 1 year ago

Two cycles.

#7996 1 year ago

Well shit maybe I don't have a first run I have the car and a cycle. How do I tell if it's a first run? I have the 3d translight and I'm pretty sure it's silk-screened artwork guess I'll check the sticker on the back when I get home. This machine was sold to me as a first run.

#7997 1 year ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Well shit maybe I don't have a first run I have the car and a cycle. How do I tell if it's a first run? I have the 3d translight and I'm pretty sure it's silk-screened artwork guess I'll check the sticker on the back when I get home. This machine was sold to me as a first run.

There is nothing special about a first run, newer is better IMO. What is the date on the back of your game?

#7998 1 year ago

I'll have to check when I get home after work. What date range am I looking for for a 1st run.

#7999 1 year ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Well shit maybe I don't have a first run I have the car and a cycle. How do I tell if it's a first run? I have the 3d translight and I'm pretty sure it's silk-screened artwork guess I'll check the sticker on the back when I get home. This machine was sold to me as a first run.

I think in the later runs they ran out of cycles and had to use cars too.

Most replace with the hallmark cycles and replace the min arcade cab right away...

#8000 1 year ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I think in the later runs they ran out of cycles and had to use cars too.
Most replace with the hallmark cycles and replace the min arcade cab right away...

I think I heard that too. If you look online there are other people out there that have a Quora car instead in the light cycle spot so it is quite possible that they ran out and did what they had to for a replacement.

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