Ft Lupton, CO
Quoted from JodyG:There was just one listed on here in the New England area.
I checked your local CL but didnt see it. New England is pretty broad though. If the listing is not gone would you mind PM'ing me a link? Thank you
(Topic ID: 181136)
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Torpedo Alley
Data East, 1988
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It was on Pinside, but it looks to have already sold. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/50673
For some reason data east decided to mylar most of the playfield,EXCEPT the pop bumpers.. Wonder why they did that.
So after about $30, I bullet proofed the power supply. I replaced anything that was repaired in the past with the wrong part, any capacitor, any connector, and the 2N6057. I didn't replace the relay, as it looks like it was replaced at some point.
Powered her on... heard music.. and POOF. Q28 blew, which I read up as being related to the power supply relay...
I'll look into it more and keep chugging along.
Quoted from lordloss:Total spent to buy and repair was $835
Hard to find deals as sweet as that .... right on ,& more power to ya!
Quoted from lordloss:Ended up just replacing the transistor with a new one, relay was fine. plays pretty good for how long its been sitting. Seems like everything works so far.
Total spent to buy and repair was $835
A fun pin you can play and then make money on later. Win - win!
Quoted from JodyG:I wouldn't sell mine for $2500 right now.
I'll follow the Neo mantra with this one. Its not for sale unless a nice shadow is traded for it. 
Quoted from lordloss:Looks like data east forgot a trace. Anyone else have this same factory mod?
the one i'm working on has that too- i assumed it was done by a previous owner but maybe it was from the factory.
Quoted from lordloss:Looks like data east forgot a trace. Anyone else have this same factory mod?
Quoted from Chuckwebster:the one i'm working on has that too- i assumed it was done by a previous owner but maybe it was from the factory.
Just checked mine & it also has this but on mine its a little different , only one short jumper on mine & its yellow wire instead of blue 
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:Just checked mine & it also has this but on mine its a little different , only one short jumper on mine & its yellow wire instead of blue
Id say its factory as there is no trace to complete the circuit for the lights to turn on.
does anyone know what the proper size coil is used in the drop target bank. my game was missing the entire bank and i'm trying to cobble one together. the target bank i have now uses a coil with a 5/8ths sleeve. I'm not sure if this is correct and can't find much info anywhere on what the 3 bank DE target uses for parts.
Quoted from Chuckwebster:I'm not sure if this is correct and can't find much info anywhere on what the 3 bank DE target uses for parts.
It is a Game Plan assembly.
Here is the capacitor list I went with for my Torpedo Alley Power supply rebuild. I changed the C1 to axial.
Electrolytic Capacitor Table - Torpedo Alley
DID Capacitance Voltage Description Part Number Source
C1 1000µF 35V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Axial 1572-1064-ND Digikey
C2 100µF 25V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Radial 565-1545-ND Digikey
C3 47µF 100V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Radial 565-4258-1-ND Digikey
C4 18000µF 25V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Axial CEA-18000UF-25V GPE
C7 330µF 25V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Radial 565-1796-ND Digikey
C8 150µF 100V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Axial 1572-1345-ND Digikey
C10 100µF 160V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Axial 1572-1663-ND Digikey
C11 100µF 160V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Axial 1572-1663-ND Digikey
List also works for time machine, not sure what power supplies are used in other early data east. Assume this list works for all blue board power supplies.
quick question for TA owners- what does the decal say on the right hand cave say? - i know is says "flipper" but not sure of the words under it.
Quoted from Chuckwebster:quick question for TA owners- what does the decal say on the right hand cave say? - i know is says "flipper" but not sure of the words under it.
6 months later
For those of you with cracked mountains, what would you pay for a reproduction set? They would be properly painted, but not have decals unfortunately.
Quoted from JodyG:For those of you with cracked mountains, what would you pay for a reproduction set?
whatever it takes... within reason $ .... 2 of them are attached onto the playfield plastics you plan on doing those too?
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:whatever it takes... within reason $ .... 2 of them are attached onto the playfield plastics you plan on doing those too?
It would be the plastic and mountain all in one piece like the original. I believe these were cast in some kind of mold, given the detail and texture of the outside surface. It may take a few tries, but I have some ideas on how it can be done. I could try vacuum forming them, but I'm afraid the rock detail will not come out at all in 1/8" thick material. Detail may show up in thinner material, but then you run the risk of breakage. The wheels are turning, and I plan to have a solution this winter.
Quoted from JodyG:The wheels are turning, and I plan to have a solution this winter.
I for one am certainly interested & would expect interest from others as most Torpedo alley's need them
Quoted from JodyG:For those of you with cracked mountains, what would you pay for a reproduction set? They would be properly painted, but not have decals unfortunately.
I haven't yet started my project TA but I would be interested (of course depending on price)
Quoted from JodyG:It would be the plastic and mountain all in one piece like the original. I believe these were cast in some kind of mold, given the detail and texture of the outside surface. It may take a few tries, but I have some ideas on how it can be done. I could try vacuum forming them, but I'm afraid the rock detail will not come out at all in 1/8" thick material. Detail may show up in thinner material, but then you run the risk of breakage. The wheels are turning, and I plan to have a solution this winter.
I have one of the caves NOS for sale, $50. Its the left cave I think.
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
Quoted from lordloss:I have one of the caves NOS for sale, $50. Its the left cave I think.
I think that’s the one that is usually NOT broken... I’ve had two games and both sets of the cave plastics had issues. I would be in to buy a set if $150 or less.
3 weeks later
Quoted from lordloss:Found a NOS translite on ebay, 52 shipped
[quoted image]
Dang that’s who got it lol. I logged on to buy it and it was gone. Just picked up my machine a couple weeks ago and just got it back from being shopped. I love it so far
Quoted from wop3405:Dang that’s who got it lol. I logged on to buy it and it was gone. Just picked up my machine a couple weeks ago and just got it back from being shopped. I love it so far
The guy did have two more that were on the site.for awhile after i grabbed the first one
Quoted from lordloss:The guy did have two more that were on the site.for awhile after i grabbed the first one
I messaged him to see if he had one left but he never responded. Mine isn’t horrible but it has a couple wear spots on it. At that price I was going to grab one.
1 week later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:nice find. When I had my TA I also pulled it out of someones basement.
I always wanted to replace all the standups with drop target banks. So I could put ship outlines on them and knock them down. Only problem I would have, is figuring out what would make an automatic reset on the banks. Even if you had a trigger point when all the targets were down, you would need something to reset the bank at the beginning of the ball, in case partials were down. I guess they could be daisy chained with the flag ship coil. but I think it would be too taxing on the system.
That's a decent idea. I have an extra stripped down mostly playfield, but that bank of drops assembly still remains. I would think you could wire it to reset off the upper coil/upper drops?
An easier mod that I think I'm going to do is add the missing spinner to the left orbit. This is essentially the same or similar as the right spinner shot, but there is only a lame wire on the left side.
Torpedo Alley was my second game back in 2000. I've had 4 of them, I parted out the first one because it just kept messing up/breaking constantly and I was a noob at the time, hence, why I have a stripped down playfield still. My current one is a complete project, but it needs displays and a cpu. I'll get to it over the winter.
As far as caves go, yeah, they might be one of the hardest to find plastics in pinball, you make do with what you have. Connectors get taxed and crappy on this pin specifically, it's common. Upgrading or bulletproofing the board set is essential to keeping this pin running happy.
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:Good 4 you bro! what a steal $ ... one of my favorite games
Yeah, that's a great deal. I would never sell mine because it's too difficult to find a reasonably priced one for sale, any given day of the year.
1 week later
Eaux Claires
1 month later
Just joined the club Sunday! Big ol’ Christmas present to myself. 
Game is a total project, severe acid damage in the MPU, power supply seems bad. At one point the game did try to engage one of the relays, and flash certain lights so it seems to have a little life in it.
Came with an extra playfield that’s mostly picked apart, lotta rust. Also a complete Secret Service playfield and backbox
All the posts in my game are clear, and to my understanding they should be color matched. Any ideas where to get the correct ones?
109D12E3-02B9-45DE-A55B-6ECA0AEB9FD1.jpeg27DE269E-C193-4B16-93E2-B4B6B5E11ECC.jpeg552DB4E9-2EF3-4B09-B223-EB798CBCEBCE.jpegCE6AB4BD-A356-4481-9D50-5E301292A0F5.jpeg
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:All the posts in my game are clear, and to my understanding they should be color matched
True. #6 hole for the posts... check flyer for colors or see if anybody has an
areal view of the playfield with out the plastic set.
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:That's a decent idea. I have an extra stripped down mostly playfield, but that bank of drops assembly still remains. I would think you could wire it to reset off the upper coil/upper drops?
An easier mod that I think I'm going to do is add the missing spinner to the left orbit. This is essentially the same or similar as the right spinner shot, but there is only a lame wire on the left side.
Torpedo Alley was my second game back in 2000. I've had 4 of them, I parted out the first one because it just kept messing up/breaking constantly and I was a noob at the time, hence, why I have a stripped down playfield still. My current one is a complete project, but it needs displays and a cpu. I'll get to it over the winter.
As far as caves go, yeah, they might be one of the hardest to find plastics in pinball, you make do with what you have. Connectors get taxed and crappy on this pin specifically, it's common. Upgrading or bulletproofing the board set is essential to keeping this pin running happy.
This is actually the one I bought! Didn’t realize he posted here!
I'm telling you guys, I played this game 100's of times and was burnt out on it and almost sold it 7 years ago. I can't believe I held on to it but I swear that it's one of the most fun multiplayer games from the 1980's. Thousands of plays later, I still own it. I truly believe it is the first great game made by Data East Pinball.
Quoted from snyper2099:I truly believe it is the first great game made by Data East Pinball.
Yep... Laser War is no slouch though
1 week later
Quoted from vec-tor:True. #6 hole for the posts... check flyer for colors or see if anybody has an
areal view of the playfield with out the plastic set.
What does #6 hole mean? I’ve been trying to understand this
1 month later
Hi everyone! I’m in the middle of resurrecting a TA from non working condition. I had to replace a bad eos switch on the upper right flipper and I’m not sure it’s wired correctly. Can anyone take a quick pic of their upper right flipper eos switch and wiring? Thanks so much!
1 month later
So does anyone else have any consistent or observable issues on the outhole / binocular flasher circuit? On mine, it seems this *one and only* circuit runs hot. All the way from delaminating its diode-to-ceramic resistor bridge on the PPB board, to burning its connector pin on the MPU (C11, P8). This is really the only trouble spot on my game - everything else electrical looks great, and the pf is so well worn it's seen lots of plays, and that's the only weak spot. I'm just puzzled as to why. It's not like that circuit is even used all the time.
1 week later
Quoted from goingincirclez:So does anyone else have any consistent or observable issues on the outhole / binocular flasher circuit?
You might have a dead short/bad transistor.
Quoted from vec-tor:You might have a dead short/bad transistor.
Hmm, I'm not sure I follow. Wouldn't a live short lock the coil and/or flashers on, whereas a dead short would prevent them from ever working?
In this case neither scenario is true. Both functions work fine as expected, until the excess current burns up the PPB traces and/or associated connector pin(s).
Like I said you have a temporary short some where... it could by frayed wires
rubbing against metal objects etc,etc,etc. You have to scrutinize the entire wiring harness.
Did you remove all wires to the circuit that cause the problem? You need to isolate stuff...
Have fun.
2 months later
Quoted from chucky87:Hello
I am looking for a translite / backglass HD for my torpedo alley which is in very bad condition. someone would have an HD image so that I can print it thank you very much
Welcome to the club! I invite you to finish your profile, update your collection and join us here on Pinside. Congrats on your first post!
I’m sure someone here can help you, Pinside is a wonderful website and probably the absolute best Pinball website by far. Enjoy your time here!
4 weeks later
New member, Aoogah oogah! Here are some mods I did to mine. 1. I replaced all the GI to comets Ice blue optimus max (except for two of the upper lanes which are I made red because all submarine movies show them operating in red lighting.) The cool blue really add an aquatic feel without distorting the playfield colors. 2. Changed all posts, rubbers and lane guides and flasher caps to clear. 3. The clear flasher caps are great as they light up that ice blue but then put a mega red LED flasher bulb in them so they flash red. 4. Added white flasher pads behind the ship plastics to the left and right of the flasher bank. I connected both of them to the center flasher. 5. Made some custom porthole covers for the pop bumpers. 6. Added a warm white 7 LED strip behind the ship animation on the pf. It really adds a ton of light and looks great. I used cyan LEDs to light the water area and red flasher LEDs also. This game is an instant fav and will be in my collection for years. Dive, dive, dive!!!
full pf (resized).jpgpops off (resized).jpgpops on (resized).jpgtorp flasher (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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