Sign me up as a member of the club, a NIB Hot Wheels should be showing up sometime in the next week and a half. Definitely a "one more game" kind of table.

Really fun table to shoot, plays fast without getting too wild, great dynamic music, and an amazing light show. Looking forward to the table arrival!

I didn't skim through all of the pages of the thread to check for others that responded to your question, but I figured I would share my audio issues from my new table delivered yesterday (September manufacture date). I also opened a new ticket last night with API in case anyone from API sees this before the case response goes out.

As I played first game after setup, a static hiss and ticking sound steadily grew louder as the game audio faded. The distributor's delivery guy and I shut off the table, pulled the backglass, and noticed a few of the speaker wires in the amp were loose. We reseated the speaker wires which stopped the behavior, so we chalked it up to the table's ride to my house jostling things loose. I still had a faint buzz, but I could at least hear the game audio consistently.

During my bout with insomnia last night, I poked around a little more to find the buzz and I found something to explore. There is a 3.5mm cable connection between the P-ROC (PC?) audio out and the amp driving the speakers. The buzz sounded like ground loop feedback, although the cable goes through a ground loop isolator. I messed with the 3.5mm cable at all of the cable plug junctions (wiggling and partial plug pulls) which caused the same noise to come back, so I continued to dig.

As soon as I fully disconnected the 3.5mm line the buzz went away, so this looks like this may be a problem with noise on the audio feed or a true ground loop problem since there is a powered amp involved. I unwrapped the audio wires from the two holding clips, and the first thing I noticed is that I believe the isolator was connected in reverse. The "Out" side of the isolator was plugged into the main audio output port like this:

P-ROC (PC?) case audio out (F) > (M) 3.5mm stub cable (M) > (F) "Out" label side [isolator] "In" label side (M) > (F) Amp 3.5mm input

After swapping the connections, the buzz went away and the noise is now reduced to a ticking sound. I also tried using the stub cable to go straight from the P-ROC into the amp to see how bad the noise problem is without any ground isolation. Don't do it, horrendous feedback and noise.

Next step, I'm going to look into a new ground loop isolator replacement in case this isolator is faulty. Possibly something like this one that has a ground shunt, direct 3.5mm support to avoid adapters, and won't cause low frequency (bass) attenuation:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-ground-loop-isolator-black/9855136.p?skuId=9855136

I might look at adding a clip-on ferrite bead on the cable, but this may be a relatively cheap fix if it works. I might take a look at upgrading the speaker wire to stranded copper core, but hopefully I can avoid that invasive of a change if it isn't needed.

As a follow-up to my earlier issue, the ground loop isolator from Best Buy solved the audio quality issues. I used an RCA to 3.5mm adapter and RCA cables I had on-hand to hook everything up, no grounding wires needed. I suspect a simpler 3.5mm based isolator will do the job, but I'm impatient and didn't feel like waiting for an Amazon shipment to avoid RCA. During the isolator swap I also noticed that the left and right channels were reversed, so I swapped the speaker wiring on the amp.

Tests good now, meaning they were backwards before the swap. No biggie.

Check the plug directions on the 3.5mm cable ground loop isolator going into the speaker amp, the "out" plug should go into the amp. You might need to replace the isolator completely like I did.

That's awesome, your kiddo had a great idea! Looks like it's stock, I might steal that idea and do something similar on mine!

Not on Hot Wheels, but there is one on my B66. Seems pretty effective at reducing playfield wear and dimpling if that is something you care about. Some claim it impacts ball behavior, though. I can't tell.

1. Sounds like a possible switch adjustment issue due to a leaf switch chattering. Does the same thing happen if you hit the playfield with your hand in certain spots?

2. Check to make sure the left and right sets of speaker wires are seated properly in the amp behind the backglass. One of the wires may have come loose which would cut out one side.

Red Line Mania engine cool down log jam. Guess I got too many jackpots...

PXL_20201011_042019607 (resized).jpg

I'm getting quite a few balls that drain SDTM out of the pop bumper area, or dangerously close to the end of the right flipper. Quite a few balls coming back down the shooting lane end up going past the one-way gate and bounce across the inlane posts and down the right outlane as well. I nudge what I can for pop exits or to save right outlane exits, from reading posts I'm gathering that these shouldn't happen very often (if ever).

The setup docs call for a 6 degree incline and I'm level side to side. Anyone else have the same issues? I'm considering going to 6.5 or 7 on the incline to see if it helps, but I'd like to avoid the need to increase flipper power for ramps and orbits. Right now my flippers are set to 23L/22R to cut down on RPM stand-up airballs.

Yea, I find I'm always doing side to side nudging now to force the ball to bounce laterally to try and make it catch that kickout below the Bonus X. It could be possible I'm just overly paranoid about it now and I need to trust the geometry.

Other than turning down the flipper strengths, any other recommendations on the RPM targets? I'm at 23L/22R and I still get air balls that end up in the blue ramp, and had one bounce over the left flipper and drain last night. I saw the earlier post about replacing the foam backing on the RPM and car targets, but I'm hesitant to do that sort of thing without having purchase details beyond "found this in the garage".

The attract mode and fanfare light shows are outstanding, it would be great to see a little more of that incorporated into the main game.

It would be awesome if the arrow inserts cycled the individual bulb colors to indicate there is more than one collect on the shot instead of a solid one color flash. For example, a large arrow insert could cycle lighting the first bulb purple, then a wine color for the middle, and red for the third to show there is a battle and loop crash on that shot. Or purple, light blue, and red if there's also an Epic mode running. Not sure if there are more than two mode shots that can stack for the small arrows.

I also feel coordinating the battle mode shot indicator colors to the main battle colors would be helpful for new players (Cobras green, T-Rex red, etc.) instead of all shots being purple. I could see some confusion between loop crash and T-Rex, though. Maybe change loop crash lights to the orange track color?

Playing this game is so much fun, definitely a 2020 sleeper hit!

Interesting, both sequential lighting and simultaneous lighting turned out muddy? I believe you since you messed with it, although the color shifts look great in attract mode so this is a little surprising, even though it's not quite apples to apples.

Maybe I'm just eager to see more of the sequencing capability used since it's fairly unique and it's a neat effect.

That makes sense, are the colors basically something flashier for pre-start spins? I guess my issue is some lights seem to trump others, like the loop crash light (Maybe epics?) seem to override battle shot indicators. I'm really going to have to record my games, it's hard to look at this stuff and play at the same time!

As a manager in the customer software support world, I am very impressed with the levels of outreach and customer interaction from API. I appreciate the extra insight, and I hope I'm not coming off overly critical since I am really loving this table.

Here's a brief rundown on what I did to fix my buzzing and ticking speaker issues:

1. The ground loop isolator was installed backwards between the P3 audio out and the Lepai amp 3.5mm line in. Flipping the isolator around made a noticeable reduction in the buzz volume, but nothing for the ticking.
2. Next, I replaced the stock isolator with a new Mpow unit from Amazon that fully removed the ground buzz, although it still didn't stop the ticking sound: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/
3. Then I attached a ferrite bead (EMI noise suppressor/clip-on magnet) on the wire after the ground loop isolator going into the amp which eliminated the ticking noise. I used the 3.5 mm sized clip out of a set like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Yarachel-50PCS-Noise-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B0757H1SBZ/
4. The only audio issue left was some light background noise, like cassette tape hiss for those that remember that sound. To remove the noise I adjusted the Lepai amp settings, mostly turning down the amp volume a little and turned up the table volume via the coin door controls to compensate. This site has a good view of the amp controls since they are hard to read without removing the amp: https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-168ha-21-2x40w-mini-amplifier-1x68w-sub-output--310-308

Thanks, I tried, couldn't get it to focus well enough to read the words that close. The front camera additionally mirrored the text which didn't help.

Here's how I fixed it for my table, YMMV:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hot-wheels-club-challenge-accepted/page/33#post-5923081

Make sure the isolator's plugs aren't reversed, the "Out" side of the stock isolator should go into the Lepai amp, not the P4 box. Swapping the cable direction on the stock isolator helped but didn't totally get rid of the buzz/hiss for me, though. I bought one of these which reduced the hiss to just an EMI ticking sound: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/

A clip-on ferrite bead on the 3.5mm line just before the amp got rid of the ticking noise which was the last of any audio quality problems.

You can from loop crash and track unlimited, and they resume when you're done with RLM. Haven't tried from victory lap or car chaos yet.

More specifically, higher gears raise the baseline tach value and give a permanent end-of-ball bonus multiplier.

Ugh, I was so close!

PXL_20201117_020145111 (resized).jpg

I coulda been a legend...

It's a mystery until you hit the skill to figure out the right sign. It's not an epic battle...

This connection for the RPM target lights has unplugged itself twice now. For the AP folks in the thread, any warranty issues/problems with a small hot glue dot or two to keep the plug in place?

PXL_20201225_052604046 (resized).jpg

Thanks for getting back to me on this. It's not super loose, it does takes a bit for the connector to work itself free. Guessing the shaker motor may be helping it along.

I debated a zip tie, but the wires are too short to reach anything solid, and I didn't want to wrap the PCB or stress the other connection with a bigger wire bundle.

I'll give hot glue a try and hopefully won't be an issue any more.

I'm paranoid so it's more about warranty impact since zip tie isn't really an option. I think someone else in the thread ran into a similar issue as well with this same connection.

Not the car theme, but it does fit a spinning prize wheel sound. Kinda makes sense since the spinners rotate the qualified battle standup lights, battle modes, and epic modes.

I do wish the spinner stereo pan effect was a little closer to center. Having it all left or right channel is annoying when you are using headphones or direct capture on stream.

Unrelated, does anyone else have an issue with the latest code of the RLM intro music playing during other modes when you max the RPMs, but don't actually go into RLM? It's weird to hear the RLM sirens in a Victory Lap/Loop Crash MB stack quieter in the background...

Get into a loop crash and victory lap stacked MB, get RPM targets "past 10", listen to background music.

Ugh, so close to getting to Legend last night. Drained my last ball during Draven which was the last mode I needed to clear...

Screenshot_20210303-191851 (resized).png

I reproduce the stacked RLM music with other MB modes at least once a play session. Usually Victory Lap, although I think it's happened during Track Builder as well. I'll keep a USB stick handy in case it happens on Twitch tonight so I'll have A/V and logs to send.

How serviceable are the fans in the backbox? My table is making very typical "fan is about to die" noises. I haven't pulled the glass yet, so I'm not sure if it's a power supply or PC fan that's an issue.

It's an amazing table, replaced JP as my favorite. Not much to look for beyond the typical checks. Maybe see if the ramps have the metal guides that prevents outlane drains?

Any thoughts on Scorbit integration into Hot Wheels?

You're welcome

If I'm going to swap out the cars...

Hero Cars

The right/orange ramp and the left loop entrance can be a little tricky and rejects a bit more than others, although the only tight shot is the kickback. Nothing unfair, just needs a bit more accuracy. I would also recommend swapping out the foam on the six main standup targets for firmer weatherstrip foam which will cut down on airball rebounds significantly. That foam swap, minor polish on the plunger rod to smooth it out a bit, replacing the ground loop isolator going into the amp, and a zip tie on the RPM light connection to the PCB are the only things I've had to dial in on my table. Very minor compared to what recent Stern and JJP tables have needed.

There isn't a lot for toys, but the table is really fun with a good fan layout. Feels and shoots fairly similar to Starship Troopers, which makes sense. HW has a very approachable ruleset with some easy to reach rewards, and a significant challenge to unlock everything to reach the final wizard mode without it feeling impossible.

Really cool RGB lighting, upgraded/amped sound, and a bunch of extras included like blade art and on the inner part of the apron for the outlanes. Best part is the overall price is well below any other table available right now, and might still include a shaker motor in the price.

Can't recommend this game enough. GOTY for 2020 and definitely has that "one more try" addiction factor. This one isn't leaving my collection for quite a while.

For the API folks here, any timing updates for the next code release? Looking forward to the RLM music defect and stuck insert lights going away.

It's possible to intentionally stack the starts of Loop Crash and Victory Lap multiball modes, but that's triggered by shooting the left ramp shot. That issue sounds like a bug to me. Might be worth replicating the issue, noting the time, and sticking a USB stick into the machine to get a log file export. AMI's support team might want to see the logs, provided this isn't a known issue or some sort of hidden/partially completed frenzy mode.

Yea, it's all gear and tach value driving up the score. If your tach is at 1 during all that work, you're not getting squat for points until you hit RPM targets, shift gears, or kick-in turbo boosts to get the multiplier up. I like to do RLM right away, that way I'm in at least second gear for the rest of the game, and pick up a hero car for the extra ball.

There is a switch that balls ejected from the trough close while sitting idle in the shooting lane before plunging, but that's it. I suspect red herring for the plunger, it's only a spring powered mechanical pushrod.

SO STINKING CLOSE to Legend MB last night! Apparently you have to beat Draven's mode to get Roger Dodger, if he escapes it doesn't count. Drained out on my attempt to restart the mode...

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1120430880

Good to know we pick-up progress where we left off. Does it resume on exactly the same task? In other words, if we hit four letters and a car the first time in the battle, the mode will resume needing to hit the second car target? I need to update the rules wiki with what I've been learning...

A ranked called shot requirement would be cool. For example, hitting the Build Track saucer gives the best speed/distance change, the car target a moderate change, left loop a small change, and anything else nothing. Shots move after hitting one of the lit called shots or a certain amount of time elapses (Configurable, of course)

A handicap system of some sort for younger or less skilled players

Start as a two ball MB, score bonus multiplier based on RPM + the number of balls still in play

Drains cause a loss of ground

Some way to incorporate all of Chase and Elliot's car changes from the show, like having to hit certain car targets (Or the lower three) before being able to proceed in the race

I've spent some time updating the Hot Wheels wiki on Tilt Forums here that will give a good breakdown on the rules/modes:

http://tiltforums.com/t/hot-wheels-rulesheet-wip/6633

I'd say it's best to make your own call since depth can be a little subjective, and there's nuances between deep and complex.

I would say it isn't easy. However, it depends on play skill level. Individual hero cars are not difficult to collect, although Legend multiball is much harder to reach. I've been one battle away (Drained out during Draven battle) in a couple of games, that's the closest I've been.

To be fair, given enough time and experience, this will eventually be the case with any table you own.

Hot Wheels is one of the best all-around games I've ever played. The majority of people I've talked to agree that it's a really fun table. The big complaints I've heard is that it isn't clear what to shoot for at the start of the game, and some of the shots feel a little tight. The left loop and right ramp shots do feel like they need a bit more precision than the others, although rejects are very recoverable. The kickback/turbo shot is also tougher to hit, I suspect that's by design.

If you end up pulling the trigger, I recommend swapping out the stock gray foam backing for the three car and RPM stand-up targets to significantly reduce air balls. There's replacement foam available from API if you don't have something already:

https://store.american-pinball.com/products/stand-up-target-backing-foam-10-pieces-kit0008-00

The only other tuning would be a zip-tie or small amount of hot glue to hold the wires feeding the RPM lights in place. It can work itself free somewhat regularly which cause the insert lights to get stuck or show the wrong colors.

[edit: I'm covering a lot of basics for those reading this thread that might be newer to pinball/home ownership that may not have learned these things already. I'm definitely not meaning to offend you or sound condescending to someone that owns six tables and knows all this stuff already! ]

Hot Wheels requires a little higher shot accuracy since most of the shots and ramps don't have flared openings and shots are a little tighter (Not nearly as challenging as Houdini, though).

I suggest sticking with the six degree pitch API recommends, and make sure the playfield is level side to side as best you can. Buy a digital inclinometer if you don't have one already; bubbles don't have enough accuracy in my opinion.

If your table still has the gray target backing foam and you don't have a suitable roll of weatherstripping foam already, you really need to get replacement foam like this for all of the car and R-P-M stand-ups:

https://store.american-pinball.com/products/stand-up-target-backing-foam-10-pieces-kit0008-00

They will make a significant positive impact in how the table feels and they will drastically reduce, if not eliminate, air balls.

I can backhand all of the shots except for the right ramp and right orbit. The left orbit and turbo/kickback shots are a little tight to backhand, although doable. I generally don't go after the R-P-M targets from the left flipper since it tends to rebound poorly, maybe the "M" stand-up since it's more of a glancing shot that will deflect into the pop exit area.

The other thing I recommend in general for improving shooting accuracy is to watch where the ball is at on the flipper when shooting, and don't follow the typical "keep your eye on the ball at all times" habit. For Hot Wheels, see if there is a line or checkered stripe on the flipper topper sticker that lines up with a successful shot.

The foam to replace was a light gray color on mine, and had almost no firmness to it.

Definitely remove the old foam, it just peels right off the metal and the new foam gets stuck on in it's place. It might be easier to lift the playfield and remove the switches one at a time so you aren't trying to work around playfield guides or plastic. Each one has two wood screws, it's a really simple process overall.

Levelers all the way in is supposed to be a six degree pitch, per the manual. I'd check anyway, and make sure it's level side to side. You can go steeper, although I'd try six first to see how it plays. Going steeper will speed up the game, although it might make the ramps harder and require tweaking the flipper power. Other than switching to free play mode, you shouldn't need to tweak much (if anything) out of the box. Follow the setup instructions and have fun!

Pretty dang good time! I think my best is 1:34.

Yes, the RPMs decay faster in higher gears, so it keeps getting harder to get back into RLM.

Any shot will add to the tach value, although RPM targets give the biggest boost. They also provide a benefit of temporarily stopping the value decline.

The kick-back is the only way to start turbo boost (Only one boost per gear). The boost is charged by the pop bumpers.

If you're after higher scores it's a requirement to keep the tach value built up all the time, get into higher gears (Raises the baseline tach/score value), or both.

Didn't quite get Legend MB tonight, but I did get one heck of a new GC score!

PXL_20211014_044206400 (resized).jpg

Any estimates on when the new code will drop? Looking to get a couple of the rumored bug fixes and co-op mode

FIXED -- should no longer start Redline Mania music if Redline Mania can't currently be started (e.g. during other multiballs).
FIXED -- reduce likelihood of stuck LEDs.

Woohoo!

I believe API+Scorbit talks are already happening or have happened. I would also love to see Scorbit support similar to JJP built into the CPU unit code and not require an add-on card, other than maybe a USB Wi-Fi adapter for non-Ethernet.

Sounds like a stuck or chattering leaf switch in the RPM targets. Might need a small adjustment to give a bit more space between the contacts.

It absolutely has that "one more game" factor, and was the big reason I ended up buying the table. Hot Wheels is incredibly fun with very accessible rules, and gives enough of a challenge to reach Legend MB to keep players busy for quite some time. GOTY 2020, no doubt.

I've had to do very little to the machine out of the box. The original ground loop isolator between the CPU and the speaker amp was bad in my cabinet, and I had to swap the left and right speaker wires coming out of the amp since they were reversed. I suspect neither will be an issue for new cabinets.

I also swapped out the original foam backing on the three front Car and R-P-M targets since the stock foam is too soft and causes a lot of air balls. API sells replacement foam pads, or you can use window weatherstripping foam; both work great after adjusting the leaf switches. I also had to replace the sticker for the yellow car target since the original broke in half and came off the target. Replacement sheets are also available through API and comes with a full set of R-P-M and Car target stickers.

Ongoing, the wires driving the R-P-M inserts come loose every fifty games or so and I need to plug it back into the board. The wire harness is a little too short to bend and somewhat stiff, so the bundle wants to straighten out which works to unseat the connector. I need to put a dab or two of hot glue on the connector since I haven't seen a good way to use zip-ties to hold it in place.

Other than weird one-off things that can happen in shipping or manufacturing, it's a solid machine and I'm surprised more operators don't route Hot Wheels.

It's tricky to finish the race at first, gets much easier after dialing in shot timings, obviously. Learning the right ramp shot is a big deal on this table since it's needed for the race and used in the four main creature battles, plus other things like the Ramps Epic Feature and various MB jackpot shots.

For shot options, it's possible to backhand the left ramp/orbit, left loop, and the left saucer. I also get less rattle rejects out of the left loop with backhands. I can backhand the right ramp sometimes, but it barely squeaks around the top arc of the ramp and more often drops out of the loop or rolls back. I could probably bump up the right flipper power from 25 to 26, although I prefer to keep my settings at stock for when I play tables on location.

The right flipper can backhand the kickback shot, although it's a really tight shot because it's a narrow opening as it is. The right orbit and right saucer, no, although it might be possible with a rolling backhand which I honestly haven't tried.

You can stack the starts of Loop Crash and Victory Lap which turns them into a 5-ball MB mode. Track Builder doesn't stack with other MBs, although it's possible to qualify, start, and collect Epic Features in all the MB modes except RLM, though. It's nice to have a MB safety net for doing the cars epic.

There's software options to drop the frequency/duration, although it's possible to tone down the intensity of the shaking by adjusting the arm weights on the motor spindle: https://flipstream.org/articles/blog

Score is 80% keeping RPMs up, plus good timing on turbo activation and gear number working like a PF multiplier. Car Chaos is also a ridiculously lucrative mode.

Sounds like me and choking on the last Draven battle requirement trying to reach Legend MB.

API support is also fantastic in case you don't hear that often enough.

My DIY lights vs. PinStadium XStreams. I had to build a replacement set because one of the beams wore out on my PinStadium set. Otherwise same table, ambient light, and camera used in both overhead shots.

ApronLightComparison (resized).png

Hoping to hit Legend MB soon; I got pretty close again off stream with a new PB score:

PXL_20220503_035646225 (resized).jpg

Any chance we'll see a code update soon? Would love for the green screens to go away on stream

Car Chaos was a good chunk. That mode gets nuts with a high tach, and more so with a turbo. I think I got a good amount out of a stacked Victory Lap and Loop Crash MB as well. I know I finished in second gear and got that relatively early. I usually try to do RLM right off the bat for a quicker hero car toward an extra ball.

Will the game logs still be there after powering off the table, and do they have scores/shot info by default? I can grab a copy when I power up the machine tomorrow if that's the case.

No worries, just asking if there was an ETA. I'm sure your collective hands are full with the newer LoV table plus any unannounced secret squirrel stuff.

Fingers crossed we'll see some Scorbit support eventually too!

It isn't easy to qualify directly, although usually happens on the games I've earned Rip Rod, Sharkcruiser, and Bone Shaker. Bone Shaker gets you 25% of the way there by itself from the Cars Epic Feature requirement.

I'm not really a competitive player, although I could see a tournament winner coming down to who played Car Chaos or how well they milked the mode.

We did it! A legend is born!

https://clips.twitch.tv/DignifiedBlindingAlfalfaLitty-DXZHBnx1MAdMj-x9

I didn't get the Legend jackpot or turn into a die-cast metal car. I cut the clip there because the playfield camera was incorrectly set to auto focus and kept going horribly in and out of focus through the whole multiball mode.

There were still a handful of shots to go when the time ran out. Unfortunately, I had no idea how the mode worked or that it was timed until I was pretty far into the timer since I was figuring stuff out on the fly.

I also think I found a bug: the Victory Lap race start magnet catch clears the left ramp hit for the Gorilla battle, although the Loop Crash MB magnet catch does not.

Not on my machine. Does the left orbit rail need to be adjusted a bit?

Well this is awesome news! Can't wait for this code update!

If you're looking for any beta testers for Hot Wheels... Just throwing it out there

Rodger Dodger always seems to be the last hero car for me, as well. I've only made it to Legend MB one time, and I didn't get the final jackpot. Mostly because I had no idea what I needed to do the first time and was quite giddy from actually making it.

I guess we can timeout the battles to finish them lower risk. Won't do much to help scores, but it is an easier path to reach Draven. Kinda feels like cheating, though.

It's pretty close, shot values are based on the number in the tach on the display labeled with thousands, not the 1-10 scale number on the playfield. The general formula to determine a shot's point value is:

<Shot multiplier, usually 1> * <RPM point value> * <current gear>

Hitting turbo locks the RPM value with a 10x multiplier to the current RPM value while it lasts. That's why it is important to try to reserve starting turbo until you have a higher tach.

Increasing gear is big, not only because it works as a playfield multiplier, but it ALSO raises the minimum point value when the tach is bottomed out. I believe first gear is 400k and second is 500k, as an example. So getting to a higher gear means you also don't have to play as "rushed" to keep the tach value up and still score points.

Genius mechanic, IMO!