I get green screens quite often unfortunately. My flippers are still spongy after cleaning the linkage and the plastic tube. I check the end stop and they seem good. Am I missing something?

My green flashes are typically during a cutscene insert. Not sure after the last update if they’re as frequent. Seemed to be in between the super skillshot animation or more so when the extra ball montage plays. Almost as if the graphics were missing or not transitioning properly. Sometimes with the news desk lady and the creature battles overlapping.

I’m (at least) the second owner so since I’ve had it yes it’s had the green screens. That’s for the tips rosh I hope another manufacturer picks you up I really enjoy your coding

Maybe this is an impossible request, but before I go designing my own and manufacturing them could anybody share a picture of the topper brackets for their Hot Wheels and how they installed it? Mine came with the topper plastic but no brackets and I'd love to finally get it attached up there. I'd mostly just like to make sure whatever I come up with is as close to factory as possible.

Just a L bracket riveted to the plastic and then 3 screws to mount on top of the head.
Really odd yours didn’t have the brackets attached to the plastic.

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Hello,

New I’m a new Hot Wheels owner. The game was being used in an arcade, but is in great condition, except I am getting a left flipper EOS error. I pulled the play field and noticed
The EOS switch is actually missing a blade. Does anyone in the forum know where to get a new switch? Thanks

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If American Pinball doesn't have it. Standard Williams/Bally switch is used :

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

LTG : )

Just for reference, here it is on the American Pinball parts store:

https://store.american-pinball.com/products/eos-switch-swi0026-00

But I believe the always-awesome LTG is correct, you can get that part from Pinball Life or your favorite pinball parts vendor.

Thank you for the post. I didn’t realize they had a store. Ordered it directly from American Pinball. Btw is it normal for the computer fan to continually cycle on and off while it in play? Thanks again. This pin is allot of fun. Great purchase.

Not unusual for the fan to speed up and slow down based on the temperature at the moment.

Happy to hear that you're loving the game!

One last question for the week, I promise . The game has never been updated. The serial # is 3342. It plays fine, but I know there were allot of fixes along the way. Is there any reason not to update the game to the newest software? I saw in the notes that earlier cabinets would need some
Rewiring , but it doesn’t look like that would apply to my situation. Thanks again for
The advise.

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well, check your version of the code, and than yes, if not uptodate, you better get the latest code

Wheyfast You should be good to update. As you said, the first 50 or so machines needed a little wiring change, but even that was trivial, just a swap of a couple molex connectors.

Ok I updated. The process went well, and there are allot more variables that can be changed in the menu.

I just ran into another issue I thought I would throw out to the group.

The P and the Pit stop lights don’t work at all. The E lamp will come on some times, but is limited to blue. When I run the individual lamp test the E will not light, but when I am running the all light test it will flash blue. I checked all of the connectors on the light side but not not sure where the run too.

I am talking about the left out lane and left in lane

Thanks for any help with this,

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Thanks for your Response. Pit Stop and P don't light at all. Completely dead. E lights but only blue. I think that's a great idea to swap the inlane and outline. That will let me troubleshoot that. It just seems weird to have 3 lamps in the same cluster having issues, I was going to open a support ticket with American pinball so that I can start ordering needed parts.

Finally got a hot wheels! I will be attempting looping wireforms replacing the plastic ramps. I have to see ball speeds and spacing, but I believe its doable. I figured out a way to have a one way gate redirect slow speed balls to a wireform below the circled form. Theres enough space. Worse case I will try different angles. If your interested in seeing this attempt please feel free to follow it on instagram at loganpinball. I will post final result in here for other owners to see when completed. I limit my time on pinside. If I can get this done in time I will bring it to Pintastic next month.
Thanks, Jay

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Its very doable to have looping ramp. I am still working through it, but heres a quick loop video. The ramp is also slanted so any dead or slow balls roll across and down return. Last post here, but wanted to show it can be done. Everything else will be on instagram (at) loganpinball.
Thanks, Jay

Dead shot design working, followed by solid shot test.

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That’s cool!! Well done mate!

This mod will be done and for sale soon. (Loganpinball.com) it is 90% done. I need to add another brace and paint it, but turn you vuk into a 2 loop return on hot wheels. Stainless steel ramp. I might alter the end run to return, not sure yet. It is a great game, but no loops!

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Looks fantastic!!

Yes! Looks goooood.

i've meet a pin friends this WE, he ask me : what pin did you have home at the moment ?

me : Hot Wheels
him : meh...
me : well, did you play it ?
him : not really, just few games on the run
me : than you just understand nothing, or even know what to shoot/do ?
him : no...
me : than WTF !!!???

as we said it already, this is sad & not fair

I am bringing games to Pintastic. But, I am having issues with this hot wheels that as of now has me leaving this out of the event. At times the flippers will flutter and all the coils get extremely weak. So weak it cant even load a ball in shooter lane. When the ball drains the machine will also reset. So far I am not finding the problem. My gut tells me its the interlock switch or coin door open switch triggering this. Anyone have a issue simuliar to that symptom? It happens daily… I tried playing with the coin door open and interlock pulled out and it still occurs.

Power supply?

Please make sure you file a ticket at <https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/> so the Service team can help you figure it out!

I generally don't care for mods, especially ones that change the path of the ball, but this looks pretty awesome! The only downside is the sadness and disappointment I'd feel in myself any time I don't make the full loop

Great idea with the loop ! Good Job on that !

The loop looks great. Any guess on the price? Let us know when you are ready to sell

Has anyone added Pin stadium to their Hot Wheels? Which GI and flasher did you use?

Wanted to bump this. I didn't get the green screens at all until I updated to the latest code which leads me to think it's a code issue, not hardware. It's been nearly 2 years since the last code update, any thoughts as to when we might see another code update to fix this issue?

Once its finalized I will have it figured out. I want to extend the loop so its more of a transition than a flat drop. Best guess would be around $220 shipped. I have been asked about powder coating. I have no contacts with any powder coaters. And the color would really off set the look if its off. But, another suggested decal on outer loops (looking into that now). I am also going to try and find a paint color that works and will see what a outer loop painted one would look like. I am still prepping for Pintastic with Rush and Deadpool so my time is split up on those. I played hot wheels yesterday and the damn flippers flutter and the game ends when ball drains. Very frustrating as I would bring it to pintastic, but it would be an issue.

Their big announcement at last years Expo was scorbit support for Hot Wheels, and that it was going to be on all of their games. It is almost a year later and it has never been released. I have serious doubts I will see it for Houdini, which has also gone two years without an update. With JJP moving away from scorbit, maybe they no longer see it as something worth the effort?

The coils acted up on first power on today. I pulled out the interlock and the flippers came back. I removed the interlock switch from the door and have it pulled out (service position) and will leave it for a few days and see if the problem is gone. The switch ohms out so who knows?

Vuk mod, this paint is a good orange track color and goes well with the playfield orange. It looks like proper color. The main ramps transparency is a very hard color to match and I am not sure, but i think the playfield orange matching the new ramp looks good. I will try and match the main ramp at some point, but for my game its this orange.

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Thanks! This is version #2.

And the coin door interlock switch solved the games issue.
I am on the fence on going to pintastic. If I do hot wheels is good. I did not get a vender spot for it and I had a player at allentown pinfest tell me to go “f” myself when I asked him not slap save my brand new game as he was wearing a ring. So, really not sure I want that experience again. I would like the visability of the show for us, but I have to get there mentally..

Quick video of redesigned loop. There are blocking rings preventing ball traps and its slanted to feed back to vuk. Still testing it out today.

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If you could make this out of translucent plastic like the other ramps. Ho lee fuk. Darn thing is from the players perspective we can’t see the ball loop. Who is the guy reproducing all the bally/williams ramps? He has the tooling to do it! Work together and I’ll make sure every HW owner buys one.

Great loop, seems way more simple that i thought. You show that it possible ! Amazing ! Good job !

That would be awesome for sure !

Soooooo I made a mistake. I was hooking up Pin Stadium lights which were working great on GI. Next I hooked up the flasher side with the supplied alligator clips. One of the clips slipped and shorted the left lower flashers. The computer rebooted and everything came up except the flashers and the light at the back of the play field.

I thought I would ask if anyone knows if there is a fuse for the flashers and the rear light on the playfield. If so where would I find it? I cannot find any schematics for the GI or flashers and I figured I would ask the awesome members of the group.

I put in a service request with American Pinball to get help. They were great with the issue of the EP and Pitstop lights not working.

Thanks,

Robert Ferdan

I don't have an answer for you (sorry) but here's the lesson we all learn once: Don't do that sort of work with the power on! I was adjusting some leaf switches on my brand new MB a couple years ago and did the same thing. Thankfully, it shorted, reset the machine (ohcrapohcrapohcrap!) and all was fine after. If you end up needing just a fuse, it's a cheap lesson learned.

This is the same with mine. No green screens when I was running the original code. Now I seem to get them during the cut scenes. Is there any way to roll back to the last version?

Yeah I'm in the same boat. Most recent code introduced the green screen problem, previous version didn't have it.

Not sure if I have a Dell computer in there but my manufacture date is March 2021 and the serial number is in the 3400 range. If the Dell is running below spec due to a known power supply issue can I put in a ticket for a replacement power supply?

The code is otherwise great.

The only other bug I see once in a while is the magnet occasionally getting confused and locking the ball for 5ish seconds when it isn't supposed to.

That gives me a chance to sip my beer so I don't mind that bug much!

Howdy,

Thanks Rosh. I looked at the website and the only code is the current offering. I went from no green screens to green screens all the time. Not sure what changed besides the code.

So back to me blowing up my LED board. This is interesting. I asked support if American Pinball has a wiring diagram so that I can figure out what board was controlling the flasher that I shorted. They responded with this:

"That board is the LED controller board. I believe it runs all the LEDs on the playfield. I have asked for wiring diagrams to share with you, I am told that they are confidential by the engineering department."

I have never seen a pinball machine that you could not get a wiring diagram for. It doesn't make sense. If I had the time I could easily unbundle the wires and document each color of wire and which pin it is attach and what each board does.

I think its a bad mistake not to let the consumers know how to fix their own equipment. They could make a lot of money on people like me that like to take apart a machine and mod the hell out of it. You know I am going to blow boards and wiring. I just need to know what parts to order from them to fix it.

Translated: "My job is Top Secret, even I don't know what I'm doing."

Thanks Rosh. That makes total sense. The back panel RGB was off along with the flashers. The 12 volt fuse blew on the LED board so I replaced it. The back panel came on and 3 of the 4 flashers are working. The left front flasher is stuck on. Swapped the flasher bulb with another one see if I had fried the just the bulb, but the bulb was fine. I figure I probably toasted the board so I ordered another one. We will see if that was the issue. Again thanks Rosh for being in this forum and lending a hand even though you dont work for the company anymore. Hot Wheels is a fantastic game and you should be proud.

FYI - have added photos of the offending board for future reference.

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