New friends arrived

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Just talked with RebelGuitars recently about that I didn't expect to find joy again in searching for toy cars at my age, but yes the Hot Wheels pin made me do it

One of the black cars is going to be the new 'spinner'. Not sure which one, what do you think?

I think the black one that is on the left side of your picture would make a a good spinner car.

I know exactly what you mean. I've bought two cars at the grocery checkout lane since I've had mine. What is really cool is when the car you buy shows up in your collection during the game.

Picked up 4 individual HW cars and a 5 car pack at Target last night. Told my wife we could put them in the kids' Christmas stockings. Who am I kidding...guessing maybe 2 of them will find their way into the stockings. I'll just keep the other ones. Really enjoying this game

same happened here. new one shipped in a week. lower the flipper strength. (i am sure you did already)

If you haven't knocked the car off the perch above the ramp on the right by the right kick into the plastic return ramp 1000 times yet and ended up blocking balls you aren't quite getting it yet .

This connection for the RPM target lights has unplugged itself twice now. For the AP folks in the thread, any warranty issues/problems with a small hot glue dot or two to keep the plug in place?

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That won’t hurt anything if you wanna try it.

The friction alone should have enough hold... if the wire harness is pulling on it, you could add a zip tie or two to keep that plug from moving.

My spooky ACNC uses hot glue on many connectors to circuit boards. It's a good idea.

Thanks for getting back to me on this. It's not super loose, it does takes a bit for the connector to work itself free. Guessing the shaker motor may be helping it along.

I debated a zip tie, but the wires are too short to reach anything solid, and I didn't want to wrap the PCB or stress the other connection with a bigger wire bundle.

I'll give hot glue a try and hopefully won't be an issue any more.

I'm paranoid so it's more about warranty impact since zip tie isn't really an option. I think someone else in the thread ran into a similar issue as well with this same connection.

Arrrghhhh.

All i had to do was shoot saucer to start battling Draven and get the last car to start Legends.

Sucks.

I think I found a simple solution to reduce or eliminate the flex of the metal wire guide of the left inner loop (the 2nd, 5th & 11th places are located).

I added 3 orange post sleeves between the 2 wire guides. Tested it in a short run a got way less flex than before. I might add 2 more sleeves to test if the flex can be eliminated.

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From player's perspective
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I like that, looks good in that color too. I tried to order the plastic guide brace from one of the shops on here, but it kept cancelling the order. Messaged the owner but so far no response. This looks like a great alternative.

I'd definitely use a zip tie before using hot glue. Not a fan of the hot glue. You don't need a ton of tension with the zip tie just a little help maybe. Make sure something isn't pulling the connector and there is some slack before plugging it back in. Maybe the lead doesn't have enough slack and that's why it's pulling/ falling off. Maybe the cable wasn't routed just right to that board. It should have a little slack and the connector and pins should be doing the job of keeping it connected. Otherwise find a way with a zip tie to assist with holding up the cable rather than mechanically holding the connector and pins together. Like brenna98 says .......

(I'd avoid glue if it were me)

I will say that that connector to the rpm targets has come loose for me multiple times as well.

I had problems making the order through pinside too. Here’s his direct email; [email protected]

i like this solution a lot! as a matter of fact, i think it looks great, too. let us know if adding more eliminates the flex completely.

Try this: loop a zip tie around the led connector wire and the standup target wires. Push down on the U if the led wires and tighten the zip tie. This will take strain off the connector.

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If you choose to try these colored 1/2” targets the faces will need to be cut down. The hole in the playfield is not wide enough to use them as is.

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This is how it looks now. I think it is a huge improvement for both left and right hand shots.

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Stand-up target mini decal set is now available on the API webstore:
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/r-p-m-target-replacement-sheet

How are those rubber sleeves setting in there?

They look like they are squeezed between the railsm

Just remove the front screw and nut. See 1st picture https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hot-wheels-club-challenge-accepted/page/43#post-6038699

Then gently lift the plastic and put the sleeves between the 2 wire guides.

Just had a great game.

I did manage to get the 'Tricera' battle lit but could not activate it. Ferret rosh Does the battle light at the track saucer only get lit when you can also qualify for track multiball? If so, where is the setting I can change this
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Man this game rocks, I had a blast
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Whether you can start a Battle at both the upper and lower saucers, or only the lower one, is independent of whether Track Multiball is lit... only depends on how many Battles you've played. Adjust via Settings > Game Features > Battle Start Difficulty.

BTW, nice score!

Nice score! I’m right behind ya. I was two or three shots from being a Legend.

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You mean, two or three shots from becoming a Hot Wheels

Flags will be need to be added to the store soon too. Mine are starting to crack. Ill be streaming Hotwheels tonight at 7:00est if anyone is interested - https://www.twitch.tv/wickedpissapinballpit

Has anybody here powder coated their rails and legs yet? Just got my lollipop rails from AP, and was toying with the idea of a light blue to match both the apron and the blue track clips you get with real Hot Wheels sets. I was thinking a blue similar to the Led Zeppelin LE would look good with the orange?

I am going to do an orange colour. Not sure which yet.

Only thing worse than a 1.4B Epic Fail is doing it on camera. The risk/reward in this game is one of the things that makes it so good.

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I went to watch, but like always I was late to the party. I need the read faster.

you didnt miss much- i was playing terribly.

Thanks for the explanation. I leave the settings on default (medium I believe), how the programmers intended Just a bit frustrated at that time I couldn't make the lower saucer shot. But I like a challenge, so better 'skills' next time.

Thanks. As I said before I really like the time spend\good score balance. For me around 30 minutes is a sweet spot that keeps me going for that 'one more time' game

Here in europe some people alredy powder coated and painted Hotwheels. This is from RS Pinball in Austria.

http://www.rs-pinball.at/produkt/hot-wheels-rs/#product_images[grouped]/3/

I like the blue version a lot more.

I try to add hotwheels to my collection soon.

Greetings Daniel

Meh. I don't like either of those colours. I think a darker orange would look good. Can't be similar to orange on cab. Needs to be a contrast.

Though I like the effort they made, I agree with this. I personally am also not fond on the extra drawings they made.

I am happy with the black color AP selected, but if I had a choice I would do something with a black or very dark blue base color with sparkles added. Like some of these examples from the 'Powdercoat your pinball' thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered

I really like the one with the 'rainbow' sparkles, but no idea if that would look nice on HW.

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When I did this I didn't remove any hardware on the plastic. I just slid them under the plastic sideways and then pushed 1 end down with my finger. You could also use a small screwdriver if your fingers are too large.

It's not a perfect solution for removing flex, as the parts are plastic and flex themselves.

The ones I used were ones I bought from Pinball Life and from Cliffy. The durometer on both were similar. In fact Cliffy may have sold his to Pinball Life, I'll ask him the next time I see him.

So the metal wires still move some. but less than before and seem to help with bounce-outs. The wires should probably have been made thicker in the game.

Robert

I like the blue also, but without the orange stripes in it. The way it is it looks weird to me.

Robert

So, you're talking about this thing?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1268-3d-tech-pinball-parts/04245-hot-wheels-metal-wire-guide-brace

Yes, but he just reached out to me so no more issue there. Looking forward to trying it.

It should work better than the plastic pieces, as it is probably much stiffer.

Robert

So pissed at myself...I gouged the side of my head decal rearranging pins. Looks like it should be easy to apply a new one. How do I order one?

Come on man... We all know " rubbing is racing " !!!
A few tire swirls on the side makes yours a proven competitor !!!

Haha...although it’s not a huge deal to me but if I ever sell it people will make it a big deal. Right now we plan on keeping it for a while

I finally got around to adding 2 spots to the playfield, I put them on the sling plastic's ramps.

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It adds some light to a darker playfield. The lamp assemblies and the bulbs I used. I had to drill out the hole in the lamp bracket with an 11/64 bit.

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I routed the lamp wiring through the hole in the playfield that is also used with one of the sling's switch. and routed and tied the wires to a harness under the playfield.

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I tied the wires from the coin door along the harness for about 2-feet.

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I put a fuse holder in the line with a 0.25A fuse.

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These add some playfield light and I like it so far.

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Robert

Hello Robert, i really like this two Lights, its way more light on the playfield now. I also like that it shines on the cars in the background, makes them stand out. Also Thanks for the pictures and showing how to.

Greetings, Dan

I add hotwheels soon, i already have the cars for it

All you need now is some trough lighting!
Thanks for the pics!!!