(Topic ID: 218168)

Official "HARDTOPS" thread

By Skypilot

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,342 posts
  • 506 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Skypilot
  • Topic is favorited by 284 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“If we produce a Hardtop for this game would yo purchase it?”

  • High Speed 174 votes
    13%
  • Firepower 128 votes
    10%
  • Silverball Mania 62 votes
    5%
  • Time Warp 30 votes
    2%
  • Mata Hari 55 votes
    4%
  • Blackout 94 votes
    7%
  • Tri-Zone 26 votes
    2%
  • Swords of Fury 74 votes
    6%
  • Space Station 79 votes
    6%
  • Fathom 70 votes
    5%
  • Pinbot 134 votes
    10%
  • Eight Ball Deluxe 124 votes
    9%
  • Strikes and Spares 56 votes
    4%
  • Kiss (Bally) 71 votes
    5%
  • Supersonic 52 votes
    4%
  • Grand Lizard 80 votes
    6%

(Multiple choice - 1309 votes by 789 Pinsiders)

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #274 Upcoming Game List Posted by Outsidedge (5 years ago)

Post #870 Hardtop Hiatus Clarification Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1086 New Website - 11/29/2019 Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1142 Xenon Hardtop Available Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1246 Pin*bot Hardtop Available Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2719 1 year ago

Insert question. I am doing a Flash Gordon and replacing all of the inserts except the arrows. The old inserts were mostly cracked and otherwise damaged. The new inserts are about 60-70% opaque. They all have those numbers and other markings on them. Do I need to sand and polish them all? Ugh. The opaque ones are not horrible to do, but the transparent ones are a drag, for me, to get back to shinny and clear.
Thoughts?

#2721 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yeah that’s half the fun of replacing inserts. If you plan on putting a coat of clear then only sand them level with 600, the clear coat will make them look polished and 600 gives a good enough tooth for the clear to grab on to. If you are not clear coating then you gotta step pretty high in grit then Novus 2 them.

There’s an interesting question. I was going to spray the areas on the PF where the windows in the hardtop might otherwise show wood with black paint, sand and polish the inserts loose and then stick them into the PF then clear.
However, I can see the benefits of putting in the inserts and then sanding before painting and clearing. They are for sure flat and it sounds way easier. The only drawback is the black paint goes away because you can’t do that pre-sanding and putting in the inserts. You’d sand away the black paint. if you wanted to paint after sanding the installed inserts, then your masking inserts for a month of Sundays to spray-paint or outlining each insert with black paint by hand. Neither is an attractive option.
So, I guess I have another question. Do folks think the black paint is necessary? Lot of inserts on FG.

1 month later
#2825 1 year ago
Quoted from A1k71:

Problem solved
[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s really nice!

3 weeks later
#2883 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

It's not been a good run for me with these lately.
And yet, my High Speed (not clearcoated) continues to be great. I don't get it.

I remember reading back in this thread that there was a batch of these that had defective glue, could that be the problem with the one that you’re working on?

2 weeks later
#2925 1 year ago

Finished my Flash Gordon hardtop install and playfield swap (don’t ask!).
I’ve included photos below of some before and after. Plays great! Looks great!
Nothing much to report. Took my time installing the Star rollovers and that turned out to be more daunting than difficult. Really was much simpler than I had anticipated.
I chose to clear my playfield sans the inserts. I added them afterwards since I know not what I do when it comes to clear coating things. I ordered all new inserts and sanded them in place on the PF with 80 grit and the I removed them and went through a couple of finer grits, ending with 1200 wet and a buffing with my Dremel and some compound. I glued them in so they were a hair below flush and added the Hardtop.
I rehabilitate the arrows since I couldn’t find new ones. Just used a chisel to scrape off the junk and sanded them back to almost like new. Helped that they were opaque.
I also worried about the ramps, but followed the lead of others, adding a shim from the strip of plastic with the adhesive supplied with the Hardtop, and it worked brilliantly.
When I did the PF swap (still don’t ask) I put in yopsicles under all of the inserts and rollovers.
Between the Hardtop, the upgraded sound board, and the cabinet repaint, I think I am good to go.
I bought stickers for the spinners, but left in my old battered ones. I kind of like the look. I’d consider installing remakes, but the stickers just didn’t move me.
Oh well, that’s my story

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1 month later
#2964 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Well, my Soace Shuttle (clearcoated before install and I didn't do the install) lifted some on the drive from Colorado to Kansas but seemed to press down okay after. I sold it so I don't know how it's holding up.
My high speed wasn't clearcoated (I did the hardtop) and seems to be fine with no/minimal lifting.
Eight ball deluxe hardtop #1 wasn't clearcoated but the hardtop was defective and grenaded itself. Attempt #2 was clearcoated and NOT a defective hardtop but did have more lifting than I wanted.
Mata hari hardtop #1 wasn't clearcoated, has resided in my cool shop for months, and I've been fighting lifting repeatedly. My lifting is happening mostly in the wide open area in the middle.
So...idk. I've not started tearing down the second mata hari (it's on the rotisserie waiting) due to low motivation.

How long after installing are you first seeing lifting? Right away, weeks, months, years?

#2965 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Are you leaving 44/47 bulbs in the under the inserts or do you switch them with LEDs? I’m wondering if heat from bulbs is the issue causing the lifting.

On my Flash Gordon hardtop I installed Yopsicles to combat heat and flickering. Looks great, no flicker, and no heat.

#2969 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I really want to do the yopsicles on a project. I always put LEDs under my clear coated playfields and hardtops. I left 47s in my Strato flite at first when I went the protector route and after one night of playing the heat from the inserts deformed the playfield protector. I love 44s for GI in older games but you can’t risk it under inserts. That heat loves to mess with plastic and clear coat.

I used Yopsicles for the controlled lights and rollovers. That’s like 85% of the bulbs in the playfield. The rest of the GI with LED bulbs. Super easy to install the Yopsicles. Only tip is to add a blob of solder to the Yopsicles before installing. I think he ships them that way now, but if not, do it prior to bolting them down.

#2970 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Space Shuttle and High Speed were done a few years ago. EBD last year. Mata Hari earlier this year.
I do want to point out that I'm not saying I think there's some issue with the adhesive formula or anything like that. Just saying that given my experience I recommend the clear as an added assist to it because I can't see it doing ANYTHING negative while potentially offering plenty of positives. A few frustrations aside, I do still like and support this product.

Thanks. I did a complete sand down and shellacked mine. Seems to be okay so far. Appreciate the info. I won’t lay awake at night worrying now.

#2975 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Thank you, that is disconcerting. I will send them an email.

I looked at the company website that makes the adhesive, and I called the guys at hardtops. Mine was four years old. The company literature indicated that if it was stored in a cool environment it should be fine after four years. The guys at hardtop said if it was stored flat and kept cool like room temperature cool it should be fine. So far, mine has stuck like a son of a gun.

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