(Topic ID: 218168)

Official "HARDTOPS" thread

By Skypilot

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,342 posts
  • 506 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by Skypilot
  • Topic is favorited by 284 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“If we produce a Hardtop for this game would yo purchase it?”

  • High Speed 174 votes
    13%
  • Firepower 128 votes
    10%
  • Silverball Mania 62 votes
    5%
  • Time Warp 30 votes
    2%
  • Mata Hari 55 votes
    4%
  • Blackout 94 votes
    7%
  • Tri-Zone 26 votes
    2%
  • Swords of Fury 74 votes
    6%
  • Space Station 79 votes
    6%
  • Fathom 70 votes
    5%
  • Pinbot 134 votes
    10%
  • Eight Ball Deluxe 124 votes
    9%
  • Strikes and Spares 56 votes
    4%
  • Kiss (Bally) 71 votes
    5%
  • Supersonic 52 votes
    4%
  • Grand Lizard 80 votes
    6%

(Multiple choice - 1309 votes by 789 Pinsiders)

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #274 Upcoming Game List Posted by Outsidedge (5 years ago)

Post #870 Hardtop Hiatus Clarification Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1086 New Website - 11/29/2019 Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1142 Xenon Hardtop Available Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)

Post #1246 Pin*bot Hardtop Available Posted by Outsidedge (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#679 5 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Can anyone here speak to how their game played before and after? I’m super eager for the HS Hardtop to be released, but my playfield isn’t totally trashed, either. So, doing what I do best: overthink things... despite the post immediately above

My Taxi hardtop plays great. Nice and fast and feels like it was just waxed up. I haven't had any issues at all and wouldn't hesitate to use the hardtop again. My playfield was pretty trashed but I don't think you can beat the product for the money. I put LEDs in, cleaned everything else up, and the game looks brand new.

Quoted from BRW84:

One thing I'll add is that I've seen so many folks talking about sanding and clearing the entire playfield. I can understand that to a degree if you're an absolute perfectionist, but all I did was sand the area around the inserts and I got great results. There are a few areas on my Flash Gordon where the pre-cut holes on the hardtop are large enough that you can see a bit of the original playfield underneath, and personally, I'd rather see the original paint than sanded, cleared wood. To each their own, but you don't have a ton of free time on your hands and you want to get back to playing, I think you can get awesome results just by sanding the inserts and rubbing a little Novus 2 into them before installing the hardtop.

I would echo this for sure. I did sand my whole playfield down to 1,200 grit to get it nice and level and any stray raised areas out, but that was it. In the back of my mind all the clearing seemed like overkill and I think (personally) it is. I've played another game with the clear applied before the hardtop and it plays the same as my Taxi that I didn't clear before.

1 week later
#697 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Thanks I had no idea (I thought sanding was enough -- something most people can do) -- doesn't that rather limit who is an ideal candidate for this solution, since not everyone has the space/equipment/skills to shoot clear.
-mof

I sanded mine down with 1200 grit and didn't clear anything. Looks fine to me but ymmv.

1 month later
#782 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Hmm, that's sort of tough spot to be in. Having cleared old playfields before, which involves dripping clear into the cupped insert areas, this doesn't look like a small task. You could try to just drip (flood) those areas with clear and sand it smooth, using the remaining art as a guide. That might not work though because the clear will sand off a lot slower than the art.
So what I would probably do if I were you is to sand off the rest of the art, then clear it. Sand it a little when it's ready and you will see all the low spots. Drip clear into those areas until you think you are above level with the playfield. Again, let that harden and start sanding. Repeat until everything is level.
Like I said, I don't think they did you any favors.

It's hard to tell how bad it is in the pics, but I bet you could get away with putting the hardtop on like that. It looks like the low parts are above where the posts are, not the switches, and wouldn't really impact ball travel. The hardtop itself shouldn't really sink into those areas unless someone is applying some hard pressure to it. That's probably the lazy way out, but I would wager you'd be ok?

1 week later
#809 4 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Curious of people's thoughts on progressively higher grit sanding followed by Novus to make the inserts naturally shiny, rather than relying on clear.

That's how I did my Taxi and it came out great. I think the clear is huge overkill personally.

2 years later
#2387 2 years ago
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:

To Clear-coat, or not to Clear-coat. That is the question.
Okay, so how many folks here are clearcoating their playfield prior to the Hardtop going on? I know that OE recommends this to ensure the strongest bond possible, but how many are really doing this. How many think its a waste of time?
I have been discussing this with a couple folks, but I want to see where the larger community stands on this. I belive that the clear-coat will ensure the strongest Hardtop bond into the future and beyond, but I cant base that on anything. It just seems reasonable that the adhesive will bite into a smooth non-porous surface better. Imagine a sticker being applied to wood, and to glass. Which one will stick the best?
I do NOT however, apply the clear-coat to to the plastic lamp inserts. I just prefer they be left bare as to avoid any unexpected weird crap from happening down the road. I just wont chance something like that, cause there would be no fixing it for sure.

I'm probably the outlier ha. Did a Taxi a while back, just sanded everything off and put the hard top on with no clear. Works great, plays great, no issues. If I ever do another one I doubt I'd bother clearing it but YMMV.

#2389 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

You're not an outlier, or at the very least we can be a group of outliers. Did a Mata Hari hardtop nearly 3 years ago, no clear, almost daily use since then, and it still looks and plays like new. Ditto for my EBD I did a couple years ago and a BK I did for a buddy last year.

Yeah, the adhesive on the hardtop is STRONG. I guess I wouldn't say don't clear it if you really want to...but if its not sticking to your playfield I doubt the lack of clear is the real issue.

#2392 2 years ago
Quoted from Zero_Hour:

I'm in the club too, recently did a Xenon, no clear. I'm very happy with the result. I think if you are going to forgo spraying clear, then it is in your best interest to fully sand the playfield, and not just around the inserts.

True, probably should be clear that that's what I did, took the whole pf down to bare wood.

#2399 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Ya, I'm not planning to clear coat at this point as that 2K shit is too expensive and I'd rather not clear the inserts at all. Also not set up for this toxic spray! I'm just wondering if wet sanding on the playfield after exposing any wood is an issue to be concerned about?
Can't you just coat the exposed and sanded wood areas like shooter lane, out hole and saucer with 3 coats of brush on Triple Thick water based poly?

I didn't wet sand anything. I just sanded the whole pf to make sure it was even since my pf was pretty rough. I didn't clear anything after that...just sanded it down normally with a hand sander and applied the hardtop.

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