Quoted from frisbez:

Looks like it could be outgassing to me. How long did you let the clear cure? Looks like it needed more time and still had some air trapped in it.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I’ve got plenty of projects I can work on in the meantime but I would buy two Elektra sets if they make them. A lot of people could use them for this title. My game plays well and for years ended up being my test fixture for testing Bally boards after repairs. If they come out with a Hardtop that will be a good excuse to finally refresh the whole game and move it into the basement.

Quoted from dq13:

I’ve had my Pinbot Hardtop on for about 8 months now and I LOVE it. It still looks immaculate after about 30-60 minutes of daily use. One concern however is in the pic below. There appears to be some stress cracking where the ball drops in from the vortex ramp. There is no bubbling or raising, but I imagine eventually that might happen. Anything recommended to soften the blow? Mylar?
[quoted image]

Quoted from radium:

Was comparing F14 hardtop to original and was bummed out by the lazy work on the lettering.
The fonts don’t match original well, letters are not positioned correctly (arrow inserts too low), and different font weights are used (see 32k vs 16k).
All that work, why not vector trace original 0-9 and use that to match?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

I figured the main play field area would be designed to install under the existing Plexi, but that's just a guess. I don't really see a need for it on most machines since the ball has never touched that artwork in 40 years. Still the artwork may have faded over those 40 years so maybe there is a need.

Quoted from wrd1972:

No I dont. Basically I clamp the hardtop to the playfield, then carefully drill a 3/16" locating hole from the bottom for all the switch, lamp holes etc that will get routed out. Once all the locating holes are drilled, I can then use the router bit to flush cut the the holes to their perfect size. When I am routing, i do it free-hand...very carefully. Once all the holes are routed, its time to stick it. This entire process only adds about an hour to the job.
Doing it this way is not for the faint of heart. One little slip up and you scar your hardtop.
Oh and one more thing. Be sure to not miss one of the holes that need to be drilled/routed prior to sticking the hardtop. I don't know for certain, but i think routing the hardtop with it stuck might force shavings between the playfield and hardtop which may cause some undesirable thing.

Quoted from wrd1972:

So in the video he is using a sanding drum and not a router bit. I can see the sanding drum being okay for after the HT is stuck because I cant really see the dust getting getting forced under the HT. The router chips may be a different story. Again I am speculating that this may be an issue. I don't know because I have never tried it.
On the last couple hard tops I have stuck, there were areas in the HT around the holes that did not have adhesive. So if there is no adhesive, you now have a very small clearance or pocket for the chips to get forced into. If this were to happen, you would have to dig the chips out. Also, in the video, there is no missing adhesive around that insert, so there is no risk at all there.
IMO the safest way to go is to clamp the HT and route the holes out, and then stick it. If you align the HT properly and clamp it before sticking it, it will go on perfectly.

Quoted from pinballizfun:

if its properly stuck down there should be no way to get anything under it. If stuff gets under it you had already messed up.

Quoted from wrd1972:

So in the video he is using a sanding drum and not a router bit. I can see the sanding drum being okay for after the HT is stuck because I cant really see the dust getting getting forced under the HT. The router chips may be a different story. Again I am speculating that this may be an issue. I don't know because I have never tried it.
On the last couple hard tops I have stuck, there were areas in the HT around the holes that did not have adhesive. So if there is no adhesive, you now have a very small clearance or pocket for the chips to get forced into. If this were to happen, you would have to dig the chips out. Also, in the video, there is no missing adhesive around that insert, so there is no risk at all there.
IMO the safest way to go is to clamp the HT and route the holes out, and then stick it. If you align the HT properly and clamp it before sticking it, it will go on perfectly.

Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Nice! So the dremel does work? Was it battery or plug in?

Quoted from wrd1972:

Glad it worked out and your happy with it. Only other thing to add is to make sure you put a drop of oil on that bearing from time to time, and make sure it always spins freely.