How does the CPR announcement affect hardtop going forward? Does this mean games that were run in the past (e.g., Taxi) are no longer fair game?
Quoted from La4s:
They are catered to two different markets, IMO. CPR is $600-700 + a complete playfield swap. Hardtop is $350 without a complete swap. So, i guess it comes down to time and money for each person.
I understand that, but this is Hardtop's current policy from the original post:
Quoted from Skypilot:
If any of the playfield manufacturers( CPR, Mirco, others) are making or planning on making a playfield it is off limits for us.
If a company has already made the playfield it may qualify for a hardtop. Example=Taxi
This policy, however, is no longer relevant because the new CPR model completely does away with the concept of "runs." CPR will presumably begin making Taxi playfields again immediately. Does that mean it is "off limits" to hardtop again? Can HT never produce a title that CPR has run in the past?
I don’t think I’ll even need sandpaper. The existing paint flakes right off! Excellent HT candidate.
Has anyone started on their Flash Gordon yet? I started stripping down mine today. As I was examining things, I realized doing both playfields will be a total pain. I was originally thinking i'd just plop down everything on my rotisserie, but the upper playfield is attached to the lower via the wood rails. In order to remove rails, the upper pf will need to be removed. I can't think of an elegant way to do this without having to remove all the under playfield stuff from the upper playfield. Thoughts?
Quoted from Mathazar:
Actually, I had not considered a protector. Reasonably priced, doesn't look to terribly difficult to install. I wonder how much it will actually reduce the cupping in my case. I'll definitely research this option...thank you for the link, grbgemen.
The inserts will remain cupped but you won’t notice them because the lexan that lays over top of them is flat. I used one on a paragon with cupped inserts and it worked perfectly. It’s the easiest solution for cupped inserts. I love hard tops, but IMO they should be saved for completely blown out playfields.
Quoted from dzorbas:
I didn't get any extra with my BK hardtop so I cut away a lot of the material that sits under the apron and used that for shims. I also had to shim the outside shooter lane rail as the hardtop didn't extend across the shooter lane. Hopefully this is being addressed now. If not, get out your utility knife and a ruler!
Oh gosh. Now that I think about it, that may have been what that extra strip of plastic was for LOL. Either way, I think it's a good idea to include extra strips of plastic for shimming.
Use a Dremel to carefully open existing holes in hardtop or drill new ones. You will have to do that for pretty much all of them. Wait until after you install to mess with the holes, btw.
I’ve had my hard top installed for several months now. I’ve noticed that one of my inserts has started to “cloud” — basically this opaque whiteness seems to be spreading from the edge. Anyone else experiencing this? Not sure if it’s the hardtop or something I messed up on install.
Quoted from Mathazar:
It's been almost 3 months since my hardtop install on Mata Hari...no issues yet, knock on wood. How did you prep your inserts before laying down the hardtop? I sanded 600-800-1000 then put on a couple of thin rattle can coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss.
Pretty much followed Vid's guide exactly. My only deviation is that I used Krylon Crystal Clear like you instead of 2PAC.
Quoted from desertT1:
something I only have to tear down the top side, sand, maybe clear, and put back together.
Have you installed a hard top before? It’s quite a bit more involved than you are making it out to be. I love my FG hardtop, but factoring in time and effort, I think I would rather do a playfield swap tbh.
Quoted from wrd1972:
Can someone please give the process to sand the playfield in preparation for a hardtop? I currently have my BK main PF stripped and ready to sand. What sandpaper grits? Does all artwork need to be stripped? Should the bare PF be clearcoated?
Vid did a guide that answers all your questions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet
Quoted from wrd1972:
Just got finished sanding my BK playfield down to 400 grit with a DA sander. The inserts are sanded to 800 grit but I am going to go even finer. So far so good.
I am also planning on black Sharpy-ing around the inserts because I dont want to chance there being a bit of bare wood showing when it should not when the hardtop goes on. But what clear-coat should I use specifically that wont impact the black Sharpy? If I can get away with a rattle-can...then cool. I also have a cup-gun I can use if need be.
For the experts: Is there any point to sanding the inserts super fine and then clearing over them like this poster is planning? I thought the logic was to sand with coarser grit (500g) so the clear has something to grip to, then the final clear will be super smooth. Will cleaning over inserts that have been sanded that fine (2000g) cause lifting issues later?
Quoted from Outsidedge:
Hi A quick reminder that there is actually no adhesive over any inserts at all. There should be no concern over not providing tooth, as the Hardtop is clear (except printed copy) and no adhesive over inserts. More reasons why a Hardtop will look great for a long time.
To clarify, the conversation here was about preparing the inserts for clear coat prior to installing the hardtop. An earlier poster was discussing their plan to polish the inserts with high grit sandpaper and then clear it.
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