How does the CPR announcement affect hardtop going forward? Does this mean games that were run in the past (e.g., Taxi) are no longer fair game?
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How does the CPR announcement affect hardtop going forward? Does this mean games that were run in the past (e.g., Taxi) are no longer fair game?
Quoted from La4s:They are catered to two different markets, IMO. CPR is $600-700 + a complete playfield swap. Hardtop is $350 without a complete swap. So, i guess it comes down to time and money for each person.
I understand that, but this is Hardtop's current policy from the original post:
Quoted from Skypilot:If any of the playfield manufacturers( CPR, Mirco, others) are making or planning on making a playfield it is off limits for us.
If a company has already made the playfield it may qualify for a hardtop. Example=Taxi
This policy, however, is no longer relevant because the new CPR model completely does away with the concept of "runs." CPR will presumably begin making Taxi playfields again immediately. Does that mean it is "off limits" to hardtop again? Can HT never produce a title that CPR has run in the past?
Quoted from Skypilot:No, final approval of titles is decided by Planetary. If a Hardtop has been approved for production and has been made it will always be available.
Ah, gotcha. so basically hard top will just make whatever title planetary approves, regardless of what CPR has done or will do?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I thought you were going the CPR playfield route?
Nope. HT all the way baby. Does CPR even have a FG playfield available?
Has anyone started on their Flash Gordon yet? I started stripping down mine today. As I was examining things, I realized doing both playfields will be a total pain. I was originally thinking i'd just plop down everything on my rotisserie, but the upper playfield is attached to the lower via the wood rails. In order to remove rails, the upper pf will need to be removed. I can't think of an elegant way to do this without having to remove all the under playfield stuff from the upper playfield. Thoughts?
Quoted from Skypilot:This was my first choice. Rust-Oleum 12-Ounce Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint.[quoted image]
Is this fine to clear the shooter lane? Or is 2PAC necessary for that?
Looking at the photos posted by Andyzola87 and ReadyPO above, that particular arrow insert also looks like its not transparent on theirs either. I'm hoping that it is just the 3m sticker that wasn't cut properly, and there isn't actually 3m adhesive over the insert....
Quoted from Mathazar:Actually, I had not considered a protector. Reasonably priced, doesn't look to terribly difficult to install. I wonder how much it will actually reduce the cupping in my case. I'll definitely research this option...thank you for the link, grbgemen.
The inserts will remain cupped but you won’t notice them because the lexan that lays over top of them is flat. I used one on a paragon with cupped inserts and it worked perfectly. It’s the easiest solution for cupped inserts. I love hard tops, but IMO they should be saved for completely blown out playfields.
Quoted from dzorbas:I didn't get any extra with my BK hardtop so I cut away a lot of the material that sits under the apron and used that for shims. I also had to shim the outside shooter lane rail as the hardtop didn't extend across the shooter lane. Hopefully this is being addressed now. If not, get out your utility knife and a ruler!
Oh gosh. Now that I think about it, that may have been what that extra strip of plastic was for LOL. Either way, I think it's a good idea to include extra strips of plastic for shimming.
Use a Dremel to carefully open existing holes in hardtop or drill new ones. You will have to do that for pretty much all of them. Wait until after you install to mess with the holes, btw.
Quoted from dnaman:Just be sure to clean up everything that it leaves behind
Oh definitely have a shop vac and some compressed air at the ready. Also wear a mask so you're not breathing fine plastic particles.
I’ve had my hard top installed for several months now. I’ve noticed that one of my inserts has started to “cloud” — basically this opaque whiteness seems to be spreading from the edge. Anyone else experiencing this? Not sure if it’s the hardtop or something I messed up on install.
82AED23E-76A3-48D0-97C7-A3B9952D177A (resized).jpegQuoted from Mathazar:It's been almost 3 months since my hardtop install on Mata Hari...no issues yet, knock on wood. How did you prep your inserts before laying down the hardtop? I sanded 600-800-1000 then put on a couple of thin rattle can coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss.
Pretty much followed Vid's guide exactly. My only deviation is that I used Krylon Crystal Clear like you instead of 2PAC.
Quoted from frisbez:Looks like it could be outgassing to me. How long did you let the clear cure? Looks like it needed more time and still had some air trapped in it.
Based on my photologs, looks like about 20 days
Quoted from cjchand:Curious of people's thoughts on progressively higher grit sanding followed by Novus to make the inserts naturally shiny, rather than relying on clear.
I think the big issue is protecting your shooter lane, but I think that approach should be fine overall.
Quoted from desertT1:something I only have to tear down the top side, sand, maybe clear, and put back together.
Have you installed a hard top before? It’s quite a bit more involved than you are making it out to be. I love my FG hardtop, but factoring in time and effort, I think I would rather do a playfield swap tbh.
Quoted from Deltron:Is it possible that future runs of hardtops with in-line drops are not completely cut out at the drops (like the roll overs are currently done) so that they can be dremeled exact after install to help prevent ball hang ups?[quoted image][quoted image]
100% agree
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Can someone please give the process to sand the playfield in preparation for a hardtop? I currently have my BK main PF stripped and ready to sand. What sandpaper grits? Does all artwork need to be stripped? Should the bare PF be clearcoated?
Vid did a guide that answers all your questions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Just got finished sanding my BK playfield down to 400 grit with a DA sander. The inserts are sanded to 800 grit but I am going to go even finer. So far so good.
I am also planning on black Sharpy-ing around the inserts because I dont want to chance there being a bit of bare wood showing when it should not when the hardtop goes on. But what clear-coat should I use specifically that wont impact the black Sharpy? If I can get away with a rattle-can...then cool. I also have a cup-gun I can use if need be.
Maybe this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-11-5-fl-oz-Gloss-Oil-based-Polyurethane/999913663
For the experts: Is there any point to sanding the inserts super fine and then clearing over them like this poster is planning? I thought the logic was to sand with coarser grit (500g) so the clear has something to grip to, then the final clear will be super smooth. Will cleaning over inserts that have been sanded that fine (2000g) cause lifting issues later?
Quoted from Outsidedge:Hi A quick reminder that there is actually no adhesive over any inserts at all. There should be no concern over not providing tooth, as the Hardtop is clear (except printed copy) and no adhesive over inserts. More reasons why a Hardtop will look great for a long time.
To clarify, the conversation here was about preparing the inserts for clear coat prior to installing the hardtop. An earlier poster was discussing their plan to polish the inserts with high grit sandpaper and then clear it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O4TFHJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Highly recommend this flush trim bit. You can basically just trace around holes like a router, it's awesome. You may still need to go free hand for the rollover inserts though.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from vid1900:That bit is the shlt for real
Literally, mount the sink (or whatever), and just let the bit do the work.
Perfectly cut every time
[quoted image]
exactly! The little dinky one i posted is meant to fit a dremel and probably would break with thick wood, but same basic principle. Forgot to mention, If you use that bit i posted make sure you use in combination with one of these to make sure you maintain the proper depth and keep the tool at 90 degrees to the playfield.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from radium:Even better is a trim router with a proper base plate
agree with you for large areas but it probably won't work for tracing smaller holes. The small dremel bit is actually small enough to fit into a rollover switch slot.
Quoted from radium:hmm... just curious why youd rather a dremel than put a 1/8 collet in a trim router with the bit you posted?
Oh I guess you could also do that. I honestly didn't even realize they made collets that small for routers. Seems kind of dangerous. Regardless, I'd probably still want to use a dremel just because it is smaller, lighter, and easier to control.
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