(Topic ID: 64090)

Official Dungeons and Dragons D&D Club - All Welcome

By DarkWizard

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 315 posts
  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Robek
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 128 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

left (resized).JPG
Right (resized).JPG
NGmod (resized).JPG
IMG_20190731_183257 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190731_205459 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190731_235501 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190731_235418 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190723_115148 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190723_115117 (resized).jpg
FD0B8B84-CF27-4323-B4AF-A9D142A4C33E (resized).jpeg
E793F6D5-FC5C-470B-A3BC-258D07333800 (resized).jpeg
Leg size (resized).PNG
20190715_201639 (resized).jpg
20190630_153012 (resized).jpg
2019-06-30 20.08.47 (resized).jpg
2019-07-08 13.47.50 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tallon.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#59 5 years ago

Throwing out a life line here. I just picked up my second pinball machine and guess what it is??? Its in dire need of ALOT of tlc. Fortunately it is working but what someone did to it is criminal. I'm getting ready to do a preliminary inspection for replacement parts that need to be ordered immediately and was wondering if there are some common problems with this machine that I should be aware of so I can try and lessen the stress on myself. I'll upload some pictures as I go thru it and any suggestions would be helpful.
Pinball phone 120.JPGPinball phone 121.JPGPinball phone 122.JPGPinball phone 123.JPGPinball phone 124.JPGPinball phone 125.JPGPinball phone 127.JPGPinball phone 128.JPG

Post edited by Tallon: Added Pics

#61 5 years ago

I said it was criminal what they did to the machine. Pulled the plunger last night and the original black is underneath. I'm guessing this was an outside pinball for some of its life as the rust is evident around the machine as I'm going thru it. I got half of the playfield stripped last night and I'm pretty sure it was never shopped either. The PF is actually in pretty good shape with no burn thru anywhere yet. Legs are off to powdercoat next week and I'm debating on doing the side rails in black also if I can't get them clean. Thinking I'm going to start a thread in the restore section and document the progress.

#63 5 years ago
Quoted from Vongoosewink:

Does D&D have an attract sound option? I've tried setting mine at "0" and "1" in the game features menu, and neither seem to have sound during the attract mode. Am I missing something?
I have mine set on freeplay, if that is a factor.

Mine did before I tore it apart. I have a hard copy of the manual coming in. I'll take a look and see if there is anything in there. The manual is online too if you up for some reading.


And the part manual is:

#66 5 years ago

So my CDO (that's hard core OCD) kicked in while I was waiting for parts to show up and I straightened and cleaned up the Dungeons and Dragons Parts Manual PDF in pinball database. Found a couple different ones as I was looking to print one out (paper just feels better) and none of them were worth hard copying. I cleaned up a bunch of the Xerox crap off the edges and straightened the text and boxes to be square on the pages. It cost $8.50 to get it double sided printed with card stock cover and back and spiral bound. I already submitted it to the Pinball Database but if anyone wants the PDF just let me know (won't let me upload it)

#68 5 years ago

Was just going thru the manual and it says that under "featured options" if you select 65 under reset factory you will default to factory settings including attract sound set to 1 or on. Setting it manually to 1 should also "enable or disable the Attract Sound mode while displaying high scores and instructions"

Like I said, I'm pretty sure mine was doing attract before I started cleanup and refresh. I also know part of my sound was not working as I was watching some YouTube of the game and only the sword hits were playing on mine.

3 weeks later
#70 5 years ago

Seems to be a common problem. Nerbflong gave me these numbers. They are the replacement coil numbers for the save and flippers. As far as heating up, I'm not seeing a EOS switch on mine either so I'm guessing its a coil engaged too long thing. Mine is tore down right now mid restore so I can't help much further then that. I would say keep a couple extra sets on hand and check the solenoid board for bad mosfet? Gotta hit up the experts, I'm spitballing. Congratz on the machine.

A30-3000 for magic save coils

Flipper coils are: 24-570/34-3600

#72 5 years ago

From what I have heard, the lair shot is suppose to be really hard. There was a insert set for the flames floating around a while back, no clue if you can still get. If you find on e let me know

#75 5 years ago

Ok who wants to give me their topper Vongoosewink??? Come on you know it makes you other machines feel short

3 weeks later
#79 5 years ago

Best I can do right now. The machine is in pieces and not sure about the connections, as the wiring harness is in a bucket soaking.Pinball 10 004.JPGPinball 10 005.JPGPinball 10 007.JPGPinball 10 009.JPGIMG_0514.JPGIMG_0536.JPG

#81 5 years ago

Keep in mind, According to the book there is suppose to be a .01uf 500v disc ceramic capacitor on each of the flippers and I have no idea where as there is nothing in the pics. If anyone can enlighten us that would be GREAT!

Copy of the parts manual for D&D


1 week later
#82 5 years ago

The Can anyone get a pic of EOS assembly on each flipper. Wiring diagram says there is suppose to be a capacitor on each set of blades. It looks like I had them and someone cut them off. He'll, just open the coin door and snap a couple pics please.

2 months later
#86 5 years ago
Quoted from Brich:

Just picked up a DnD with topper!
It is currently blowing the 6 amp fuse on the power supply.
Any ideas?

well? where are the pics?

1 week later
#91 5 years ago

Your killing me

1 year later
#124 3 years ago

They have everything they needed to get them into production now. Unfortunately, it not a high demand machine so I'm guessing it's a year or two down the road yet.

1 week later
#126 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I replaced some burnt out bulbs in the upper pop bumpers. It was clear that the plastic standoffs that screw the upper plastic to the lower one had been....er.....creatively replaced by someone.
Does anyone have a link to those plastic standoffs? And what the right kind of screws to use are?
To clarify: these plastic standoffs have a little clip so they clip onto a hole in the lower plastic. They are threaded so a screw goes into them from the upper plastic. But I don't know what the part # is or how to search for them, if anyone knows what they are let me know.

Last I checked, the standoffs were not available. Your going to have to get a little creative here too. I seem to remember ordering something close (they have the clip but no wings to keep pressure on the plastic), but an actual parts number still eludes me. I researched computer standoffs and circuit board retaining clips. Good luck and let us know if you find them.

3 months later
#127 3 years ago

Need a little help guys. Does anyone have a spare left wire form? Working on a project and need to get ahold of one. In fact, anyone with spare parts PM me.

1 month later
#130 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Just wish i could find a topper!

If only someone had an extra and was in Wisconsin so it was close enough to come get. Huh

1 week later
#138 3 years ago

For the old Bally machines I like using "super caps".

amazon.com link »

It's a 5.5v 1-1.5uf capacitor. Last damn near forever. Acts just like a battery. No real risk of leaking. Only thing is you need to turn the game on at least once a month to charge it up. I'm guessing that won't be a problem?

1 week later
#140 3 years ago

Yeah, you can ignore the part numbers completely. There pretty much useless. When I started my restore I bought this

As you can see, that's what's left from 30 of them. The only sleeves that are different are the drop target reset and the teleport.

Good luck

2 weeks later
#147 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

I wonder if anyone sells just the metal stand up posts? If so you could attach them to the new plastics with something like a grommet punch?

I like going from the bottom but this works

To remove, just insert the iron from the bottom for a second or 2 and the plastic pretty much falls off

#150 3 years ago

It depends on what you are trying to get off. Ammonia takes off smoke, dawn and water on a rag takes off most dirt and grease, lcd cleaner (50/50 water to alcohol) for general cleaning. Always applied to cloth and wiped down and always a lint free cloth (I like old t-shirts) I equate the plastic in the translite to a lcd screen on a laptop

#153 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Does anyone have an idea what the "teleport Lt Empty" error means? My left teleport seems to be working fine, so I'm not certain what problem I'm trying to diagnose from the machines perspective ?

I usually get this when I'm working on the playfield and the teleport drops without a ball in it. There is a switch in the bottom of the cup to read a ball being locked. If it doesn't read it (ball goes in and bounces out before it can drop and it drops empty) it will reset the teleport to the up position. Check the switch, diode, and wires.

#156 3 years ago

Not sure I'm loving the dragons on them. Kind of feel the open archways would pull it together a bit better seeing as the entire theme of the game is to attack the dragon in his lair. Just archways would give it more of a catacomb feel. You didn't see more dragons in Smaug's lair in the hobbit did you?

#158 3 years ago

Oh your killing me

#160 3 years ago

Lol, I told you, the black front is how those came. It's actually a thin layer of black plastic laminated to the plywood. I'm guessing the plywood was manufactured that way and they did it to save some cash on vinyls

1 week later
#162 3 years ago

Believe it or not, check your return spring on the trough. I'll bet it old, crappy, or just plain wore out. You can also cut a couple coils out the tighten it up if need be. The other thing would be to check the coil stop and piston. Mushroomed or wrong equipment would creat a longer travel and thus a harder hit coming out.

10 months later
#175 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I may be able to get my hands on one of these, but I want to set it up to take dollar coins. I'm unfamiliar with the coin door on these, is it possible to make it take dollars?

In theory yes. You will need to get a dollar coin cutter and then set that chute to 1coin = 1 credit. If that's all you are planning on accepting, all chutes can be set that way. If your planning on taking quarters too, then the other chutes would need a quarter cutter and set to 4 coin = 1 credit.

ebay.com link » Williams Pinball Dollar Coin Acceptor Coin Mech Brand Tested Good

#177 2 years ago

IMG_0277 (resized).JPG

Just pull the cotterpin and as long as the coin fits in the chute, the cutter should do all the work

3 months later
#181 2 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Joining the club, and almost have it up to 100%. Does anyone know what the replacement parts would be for the shooter assembly? Specifically looking for the metal shooter guide cover and the plastic bushing/guide. I don't see the parts specifically listed in the parts stores.
Also, any advice on tweaking the shooter to always go up the ramp at the start? There seems to be a lot of play in the shooter rod and doesn't always impact ball in the center. Maybe this is happening just because the plastic bushing is cracked, or do others have this issue?

There is a lot of play in the shooter rods from bally game during this time. Check to make sure the playfield isn't sliding right or left on the playfield guided in the cabinet and adjust the hooks on te front of the playfield to pull the playfield a little closer to the shooter rod

1 week later
#185 2 years ago

Power is feed from the lower flipper to the upper flipper. The second stack on the EOS is the power feed. I would take a look there for pitting or dirty contacts.

1 week later
#188 2 years ago
Quoted from UKed:

Was hoping someone may be able help. I'm a noob so bear with me.
I had troubles with the TBS on my D&D so ordered the replacement from Great Lakes. I am trying to install the new set but can only get the transmitter board to work. When I install the receiver board I get the "missing 3 balls" error. The original boards and moles connectors are pretty hacked up so I'm thinking maybe the previous owner re wired something. I have included pictures of the original board hoping someone can help. Many Thanks

Holy crap, did they use a blowtorch?

#189 2 years ago

Wiring looks to be white/purple, blank, black, key, orange, black. No clue if the blacks are interchangeable. Should be ground thoughIMG_0304 (resized).JPGIMG_0305 (resized).JPGIMG_0306 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#194 1 year ago

Answered on the facebook

11 months later
#244 1 year ago

Hunting for a set of rear legs. Anyone have a set of 34 3/4” legs?

4 weeks later
#246 11 months ago
Quoted from VampireKangaroo:

So I'm opening up the playfield on my Dungeons and Dragons. I've ordered a set of pop bumper caps but they do not fit. Can anyone let me know the exact ones I need? Or a link maybe? Thanks in advance.

ok? There is only one pop bumper cap on D&D. Its a red ring like Centaur and orange or amber cap

D&D cap (resized).jpg
7 months later
#260 3 months ago

Just a heads up, there are now replacement cabinet decals for those that need them.

Ministry of pinball has them for now

1 week later
#280 87 days ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Mine's packed up right now from moving... hopefully someone can jump in here!

Didn’t I sell you yours? Ok since no one seems to be jumping in and helping out and since I’m working on another one (that’s 7 I believe) I’ll answer all I can.

Let’s start with the legs. The back legs are suppose to be 34.5” long. That’s why you game is slow and floaty. You can either have a set welded up or try and see if someone has a set. I looked for about 3 months before I gave up and just had a set made.

The post by the upper flipper has been the skinny clear post on all 7 of the games I have done. My guess is someone changed it to a star post to stop the ball from getting stuck at the top of the flipper

To be continued.......

#281 87 days ago

So....I found all the pieces to the plastic that behind the flipper and glued them all together so I could make a new one. The replacement was made out of a thicker PETG plastic and yet...

E793F6D5-FC5C-470B-A3BC-258D07333800 (resized).jpegFD0B8B84-CF27-4323-B4AF-A9D142A4C33E (resized).jpeg
#282 87 days ago

It’s just suppose to have a little hook at the top to keep the ball from resting under the tip of the flipper and getting stuck. Every single game I have worked on has had this plastic broken. I guess metal is my next step I just don’t feel like it. Just gonna make a couple spares and let it roll.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you need anything else

1 week later
#288 74 days ago

If you actually need to remove the head, you can remove the 2 bolts on the right side of the bracket just under the head. The outer side of the plate will come off then the head can be tipped slightly forward and slid to the right to get it off the pins and free the head. You will need to disconnect the wires from inside the backbox before you try this. I would suggest just folding it down for transport

1 month later
#297 39 days ago

Regular balls are fine. There are no magnets in the game. The “magna save” is actually a piece of spring steel with a coil pushing it out when you press the button

#300 36 days ago

No switches, optos and they are crap. Double check the connectors to the boards and if that’s not it, I would check for light leaking under the apron. I have had it a couple times where changing to LED’s caused the opto to stop reading. Blocking the light by putting paper in front of the board can fix it.

#302 35 days ago

pull the 2 screws on the hooks on the front of the playfield, that apron itself has a couple tabs that hook into the steel wall at the front. you should be able to slide the apron forward after the screws are out and get it to release from the front. be careful not to scratch the hell out of the stainless

1 week later
#309 27 days ago
Quoted from JiePieWie:

Thanks. I've sent them an email but no response yet. In the meantime i've removed both PCB's from under the apron and checked them. And discovered that they were working normally when i tested them and kept working after i placed them back I think that just removing the PCB's and cleaning the pins of the connectors solved the issue. Been playing this machine a number of times in the past week without any issues other than a few lightbulbs which need to be replaced.

Wouldn’t hurt to change the pins in those connectors. I have as of yet to see some that are not completely tarnished and dull. Let’s be honest. They are 30 years old and pretty tired anyway. New pins will help keep good connection

#312 25 days ago

The connector on the cable. Inside on each wire is a little pin that keeps tension on the header.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 13.00
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 137.00
$ 44.95
Machine - Wanted
Newfield, NJ
From: $ 16.95
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 14.50
$ 209.99
$ 18.99
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 89.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 24.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
The MOD Couple
$ 140.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
$ 27.50
$ 65.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Texas Pinball
$ 7,299.00
Pinball Machine
Flip N Out Pinball
From: $ 9.99

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tallon.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside