Oakville, MO
Was wondering if anyone knew where I can find the translite trim prices ?
Awesome game finally got mine working 100% now just trying to locate stuff like the trims for the backglass
Thanks
(Topic ID: 64090)
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Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
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Also I have all the sound but it’s VERY crackly
Going to start changing chips and caps on it if anyone has any suggestions it would be much appreciated
Quoted from Tallon:There is a service bulletin for the sound deluxe board. https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803
Take a look and see if it has been done. I have found that the roms can get a little flakey over time and reburning new once can clean up the sound too. As for the trim, Marco sells a trim kit. The system 11 is the one your looking for. Otherwise, translite trim from pinball life works too, you just have to buy the individual pieces.
Man thank you!
1 year later
I feel like I’m gonna go for cab decals
Any suggestions at all to taking these off?
The type of wood used for the cab makes me wonder
Quoted from Clnilsen:Curious where you might be getting them - quality?
Planetary pinball will be here tomorrow I’ll check them out
So they came
I DO like the quality ,the lower cab is beautiful
I’m a little thrown as I get why you would take liberties with the dragon head illustration,I like it better but look at the overall height of the head decal
I guess it just fades into the black?
Quoted from dr_nybble:Red is very prone to fading
Those head decals are odd -- look like they are not scaled right or something!
Agree gonna look at it here in a minute
So mystery solved. Seller says the art file is wrong and it was his mistake and he’s going to send me send me a new set of the heads
Going to apply the art to my cab this weekend
Question to the group
To do the front art or stock black
Going for the black front as I’ve powder coated the coin door and I think it will look great
Ive powdercoated the legs,coin door ,hinges ,all the brackets in and around the neck,and the speaker grill
Nothing radical,all the colors they are,or I guess were
I like the rails and lockdown stainless on my games for the most part
Can someone from the group get a measurement for me?
I need the side graphic on the lower cab “Dungeons and Dragons”
Not the blue brick,the text with the white trim end to end left to right
Much appreciated thanks !
I have received my Optaboards for the trough for my DND.
I was wondering if anybody had a picture or could take the time to get a picture for me of the wiring that is attached to the optos where they plug-in
I don’t believe that these are correct 100% and I don’t trust the manual schematics 100%
I’m in no rush just if anybody has the time I would really appreciate it
1 week later
Quoted from Velluminous:Not sure if this pictures help, but here you go? About 49.75" total cab length front-to-back, and the logo (from each of the white points) side-to-side is about 46.5". If you measure from the front of the cab to that white point, it sits 1 and 5/8ths" back.
Not 100% sure where you're needing a picture for the opto/wiring, but http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#opto has a really good breakdown of opto repair for the bally 6803.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Damn man thank you!
1 week later
Quoted from Chalkey:WOWWOW! That looks great! Show us the installed photos please. I'm on the hunt for a coin door that isn't dinged up if anybody has a lead.
This is my favorite club, I fn love this game. Mine is now available for play at Center of the Universe Brewery in Ashland, VA for 50c.
I will for sure
Ditto on this club best on PS love this game as well
Dungeons & Dragons FTW
Excuse the mess
Wanted to put the decals on under harsh natural back lighting so I brought it out the garage
So far so good
2CAA0FAD-1E37-4D3E-8881-E58FC97F2F3B (resized).jpeg5A6798E1-4C51-45A6-A367-C1F7D2E1E5E2 (resized).jpeg5C448160-3A5F-4E98-9268-9286ED58B4F5 (resized).jpegB3AF281F-12CA-47AF-85B9-B081F0B14680 (resized).jpeg
I did black on the coin door and neck bracket and speaker panel and I did the legs close to original color
I think with the new stainless I think it’s all going to tie in well I just couldn’t get the legs on today cause I don’t have the standoffs yet
27E0A168-CB20-4EEC-A0A8-CED380B86622 (resized).jpeg5506D1D8-CA04-4782-8294-176D129304E4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Velluminous:Looking really nice! Such a vibrant color compared to my original cab that I'm half tempted to update mine.
Thanks
I’m waiting to decide on the rails and lockdown bar as I wanted the option
Quoted from Chalkey:Looking great! I wish you did the side rails in black too just so I could see how it would look
Can you tell me what prep work you had to do for the cab? My bottom edge has some moisture expansion.
The prep work seemed like it never ended which is only a drag because I don’t want my game to become forgotten about.Obviously there is a lot to do regarding it,and I want to keep all the rest fresh in my mind as I only do one thing at a time
Now I’m moving to the head
I just filled,sanded,then sealed and sanded 3-4 times
Filling things goes on forever as you ALWAYS find more and the edge takes alot of patience as you have to wait in between applications and life gets in the way on top of that
Use 80grit w a orbital to get all the glue off then go from there
I would imagine,without seeing yours ,that you could just sand it down down down with 80,then fill back for a good form,then seal it
Once you get past the damaged area it’s not going to keep falling away,you can then firm up what’s there and come back
I know I’m being vague,PM me and I could go over it in more detail,happy to help if I can
Quoted from Velluminous:Just saw one listed on Facebook about an hour ago for $3k. Lexington, KY location. Says they will not ship.
Only about a 3hr drive away for me. Lot shorter than my drive to New York for mine!
Edit: Pending/sold, looks like. Sold within an hour of posting.
Topper?
Quoted from Clnilsen:WOW those are amazing? Where are those from? Does the set include all the head art up to and including the topper? I wonder if they would make a matching set with just the brick in front (I have mine already with the brink in front that I had scanned and printed, and really prefer it in my lineup!)
eBay arcadeamusements? I believe
Had some issues with the first batch he was all over it and worked to get them perfect
I really can’t say enough about the guy who makes them good dude
They are real nice and yes head and topper and front brick included
I’m not using the front brick but I do have the topper and will be doing that but first the head as I do one thing at a time
Quoted from Clnilsen:Was it this guy? Those look nice.
[quoted image]
Yup those are them I would totally back buying them
Quoted from Clnilsen:Thanks! Just pulled the trigger on them!
Nice
Quoted from Morgoth00:Anyone have their DUST drop plastic off? Just fixed my PF post hole tear out and could use a couple of hole location measurements so I can re-drill and avoid any play deflection changes.[quoted image]
I got 5 1/4 middle to middle hole if that helps
Quoted from Morgoth00:Anyone found a source for the plastic standoff clips (name?) ? Were these used in other Bally games?
[quoted image][quoted image]
These ?
Quoted from Morgoth00:I couldn't figure out where you were measuring 5 1/4 from.
Can you tell me these two measurements?(both to center of post hole)
[quoted image]
5 1/4 inch center of hole to center of hole
Quoted from Morgoth00:I couldn't figure out where you were measuring 5 1/4 from.
Can you tell me these two measurements?(both to center of post hole)
[quoted image]
The other “hole”being the post above the targets in your picture that is still installed sorry my bad
Quoted from koji:Oh yeah.. Was also wondering how other examples are for insert lifting? Mine was pretty bad.. Took some time to heat and press whta I could back in place. Most of the flames were pretty bad.. But the mylar has kept the pf nice so I'm grateful for that...
But between those and the sockets from hell.. Maybe my finger tips will recover some day.
[quoted image]
That’s a great looking D&D man
Quoted from koji:Had my D&D on an impromptu stream last night... figured I'd share, had such a blast playing, but always have trouble making shots with cameras on, and in the way. Anyway, figured I'd share it here.
Highlighted one of those stuck magic saves that work out, and finally got my mystical million shot that was eluding me:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1475564858
Nice.Man makes me want to get mine together looks like a blast
2 months later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Chalkey:Those decals look incredible! Did you have to do any cab repair? I want to do decals but the bottom of my cab has swelled and I think it'd be an uphill battle trying to sand and have it not just flake everywhere from the bottom.
As for the optos, you can always just rebuild the boards. It could be something as simple as a loose connector or too much light coming in to the apron for some reason. Ministry of pinball and https://www.pindorabox.com both have them in stock.
Thanks really happy with how it came out
Had to do a crap load of cab repair
Rebuilt the right side panel on the head,I didn’t really have to,but had a little wiggle in it so it got removed
Took a long time but it’s solid as a rock now
Quoted from Chalkey:How did you deal with the edges?
Wood filler(the killer stuff),fiberglass resin
Took forever to find the time
Little by little
Quoted from Chalkey:Those decals look incredible! Did you have to do any cab repair? I want to do decals but the bottom of my cab has swelled and I think it'd be an uphill battle trying to sand and have it not just flake everywhere from the bottom.
As for the optos, you can always just rebuild the boards. It could be something as simple as a loose connector or too much light coming in to the apron for some reason. Ministry of pinball and https://www.pindorabox.com both have them in stock.
The sides of the cab top and bottom are made from 5/8 particalboard
If one side is good use as a template
My lower cab was pretty good ,but you can pop that side off and make a new one
You’ll need a table saw and router
Quoted from Chalkey:How did you deal with the edges?
Use many coats of wood hardener if the bottom side of each panel of the box feel suspect or “flaky” at all
Quoted from Lermods:I thought these guys went out of business.
Bought some from them as well I believe in the last six months haven’t put them in yet
Quoted from Lermods:well, that's interesting...I emailed them today to inquire about the boards, but I'm not expecting anything.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business#post-5314899
I can’t be 100% on where I bought them now that I think about it but these are the ones I have
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Chalkey:My decals are not amazing. The cab has minor swelling on the bottom edge of the particleboard / whatever. I'm not a bad enough dude to slap new sides onto the cabinet but I also don't know if it's worth just sanding / filling the bottom edge or if it's just chasing bad with good.
If it minor you can sand it right down
4 months later
Only took 8 months? Not sure
New decals,powder coat everything,plastics,on and on
Finally flipping my D&D
Topper going on tomorrow finally got the decals on it
So many people helped me get this to this point I just can’t believe I’m flipping it
3DD026F5-0C38-4AB6-8899-7467E74C2B13 (resized).jpeg5775CD25-1F14-4939-B604-14F7A11CAB79 (resized).jpegA8DB5F98-C35A-42B8-8A57-5870426A93C2 (resized).jpegF2482928-9DE0-4E66-BC2D-2D3A1E8E23C3 (resized).jpegQuoted from koji:Hopefully you mean, flipping in the literal sense of utilizing the flippers to play games.. and not the selling sense
That’s exactly what I mean can’t believe I’m actually playing it not selling no didn’t mean that
I am having a problem where the game plays normal until I lock a ball in “wizard escape “ or “warrior escape”
The second ball goes into play like normal,then when it starts hitting things it will trigger the out hole switch thus abruptly ending the ball every time
Can play one ball forever as long as you don’t load the tunnels
The “teleport loaded switches are on the same row as the outhole but they test fine and I’ve checked the diodes on the whole row
Quoted from Tallon:in or out of circuit?
Out of circuit they are all good.
I’m thinking I should start looking at changing the ceramic caps?
I did have one orange cap on the bottom of my cab after all the work was done I discovered it sitting there the other day .
I’ve searched and search all seems to either have a cap or diode on it
I feel like this random orange cap could be off the start button,which would be on the outhole switch row,but also I feel like I’m just grasping at straws with that kind of thinking.
I think the caps can cause issues like this ?
I walked away yesterday after Checking all the diodes to think it through then decided to post here in hopes someone had a different idea
Quoted from koji:4-balls loaded in machine? maybe closely check the escape drop switches? when the mechanism is down, I believe 2 switches are closed.
Guessing if some switch in the trough or escape holes is perhaps confusing the machine?
Right.
The game is confused for sure
If you toss one in the tunnel ,plunge the next one and grab the ball
Then just hit the magic saves and flippers it only takes about 15 seconds and you will see the outhole switch “engage” thus cause the game to go into ball over music
Quoted from koji:4-balls loaded in machine? maybe closely check the escape drop switches? when the mechanism is down, I believe 2 switches are closed.
Guessing if some switch in the trough or escape holes is perhaps confusing the machine?
4 balls yes I will look again at the two switches to see if they are both closed I assume they are since “warrior escaped” shows and a new ball is released
In switch test nothing is closed
Quoted from Tallon:do you have led in it?
A few here and there just casually put a few in to see what it looked like
Quoted from Tallon:So if you checked all the diodes on the black wire cj4-2 i would guess your having an issue with a flakey opto. the trough 3 switch in on that line too. check that and make sure your not getting a bad read there. Also, those optos have issues with light bleed. make sure your not having an issue with the leds
So I’m having no luck as of yet
2 things I can’t shake
When I press the skill 3 switch it will show both switches ,loaded and empty,closed on the RT teleport ,every time
Those switches show when you depress them,the skill 3 is the switch that triggers all three showing closed
Second,when I have a ball locked ,I’m almost 100% that when you press the magic save,
,the right cabinet switch,that triggers the outhole switch to engage ending the ball
Sometimes it takes a few tries ,but that seems to be what triggering the outhole
Thank you for the help!
I’m thing it may be as simple as the balls getting hung up slightly in the trough
Will check it out had to walk away for awhile
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