Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider shadowflame76.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from tjsynkral:Does anyone else have problems with the wire backboard entrance gate at the top of the skill ramp, where it gets stuck all the way up and then the ball just goes under it? I'm not sure how to fix it, I've tried bending it various ways. I don't think I want to put lubricant on it.
Yes, i have the same issue with my machine . Did you figure out a way to resolve the problem ?
Quoted from jedi42:The way I resolved that issue was to keep adjusting the leaf switches until it didn't stick any more. No magic bullet, just experimented until I was blue in the face. Not a great answer I know, but it is what I did. It was torture.
Thank you for your reply, do you have any tips on which way to bend the leaf? should it be bent forward? sideways?. I appreciate your responses as I don't look forward to lifting the playfield hopefully will only have to do it once or bend the switch from the gate area itself.
Quoted from Clnilsen:I had the same problem - had to adjust about a 100 times before I got it right!
Thank you for your reply. Do you have any tips on which way to bend the leaf? should it be bent forward? sideways?. I appreciate your responses. I don't look forward to lifting the playfield hopefully will only have to do it once or bend the switch from the gate area itself. Not exactly the best skill shot design..
Quoted from Clnilsen:I bent mine back... also played with bending the arm of the gate sideways to adjust where it triggers the leaf. I set it so it barely triggered to keep things from hanging up.
Thank you, I assume you bent the arm to the right towards the wire ball trail?
Quoted from tjsynkral:Does anyone know if there's a replacement available for the wire gate on the top of the skill shot ramp? Mine is rusty and bent, and is having problems with either getting stuck, or trapping the ball when a successful skill shot is made (opens in reverse direction).
Unfortunately the brains at Bally that designed this game made parts specifically just for it. My skill shot gate is broken so I ordered a gate from Bally's "Game Show" machine and hopefully it will work the way it is or with slight adjustments..
Quoted from jedi42:The way I started was to unscrew the leaf switch, that gives you more flexibility to move each individual leaf around if needed. Then I lined them all up and screwed back in. My experience was to bend them back as far as I could so that when gate is at farthest travel it wouldn't bind. Then afjusted the switch connnections so a small touch triggered it. As I say, just a lot of experimentation.
Alright thank you for the information. I am going to attempt the fix this weekend. I hope it goes smoothly and nothing breaks on the playfield, especially when lowering it down to lean it against the backbox as the playfield is ungodly heavy and awkward..
Well I tried and tried, but I give up.. no luck, and not worth the struggle for a 100,000 skill shot. If it was for an extra ball or something that would be different.
To anyone with a Dungeons and Dragons pinball machine.. on the 4 pop bumpers only the lowest one on my machine has a top on it, this is the one not under the plastic.
The ones that are under the plastic are basically open with no tops is that correct?
I am having an issue with my D&D machine, The top right flipper is weak and has a lot of movement, basically you can move the top flipper all around even when holding in the flipper button. The bottom flippers are fine. What would cause the issue with the top right flipper? could it be a board issue or is it most likely something mechanical?
Just wondering if I should spend the money on a rebuild kit. I looked under the playfield and the coil is not burned or even a little brown. I suppose it could be some other part of the flipper mech?
Help Please 
Quoted from Clnilsen:I had similar problems. I'd recommend springing for the flipper rebuild kit. I did all 3 of mine, and really helped the game a lot.
While I was in there, I actually replaced my upper flipper with the same style blue flipper to color-coordinate with the wall plastics as well.
Thanks I will order a flipper rebuild kit and a new EOS switch. As the rebuild kit doesn't include the one for the upper flipper. Probably order a new coil too just incase. Going to be expensive as I can only find places in the US to get parts from and I am in Canada, which makes for hefty shipping charges.
Quoted from Clnilsen:Sharing... my new Dungeons & Dragons Backglass (yes, not a translite). Colors are very bright and saturated when off, when it's on I need to change the bulb behind it to make it less intense and perhaps whited to spread the light out.
Graphics really pop now though!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have a Dungeons & Dragons machine too, have you made the Mystic Million shot without having the glass off? 
and does the ball seem to bounce off the metal rail and out of reach of the upper flipper at times?
Quoted from jedi42:Personally made the Mystic Millions once, and the switch wasn't adjusted properly and didn't register, talk about someone in disbelief!
Same, the ball does bounce off the metal rail at a weird angle which makes the upper flipper shot difficult. Would be interested what people have done to soften the bounce.
I tried putting a piece of sticky felt where the ball usually hits after it comes off the wire form, it helps stop it bouncing away from the flipper.
Quoted from dr_nybble:Best is mystical millions 3x on one ball! I find multiball on this game weird, like it is something you kind of want to avoid because it tends to open the right ramp up to the inline drops.
Yep, it's an odd design. lock the "Wizard" ball, and try to avoid the Dragon's Lair or you open the ramp and you can't do the mystical million shot.
Quoted from EvanDickson:New to the club, and excited to be in it! I used to play D&D a lot one summer during high school when there was one in the rec center where I worked. This week I got one in a trade with a local pinfriend.
I do have questions!
Does anyone have a good grasp on the rules around teleport / ball lock? I can't quite figure out the rhyme / reason to how these work.
What I've figured out:
If I end a game with balls locked at both the shield and the dust, it will kick the dust ball back out and keep the shield ball locked.
If I end a game with a ball locked at either shield or dust, it will keep the ball locked.
If I boot the game with balls locked anywhere, it kicks them out.
Is it just a quirk of the programming / bug that it doesn't kick all locked balls out at the end of a game?
*sometimes* with a ball locked when I shoot for a teleport arrow it actually does teleport the ball, ie lock the ball I just flipped and unlock the other ball.
*sometimes* it just locks ball #2.
How do I know when it's going to teleport, and when it's going to lock?
I have this machine as for the balls being locked that is set in the game options. You can tell it to keep both balls locked at the end of the game, to keep one ball locked or to eject both balls. It will eject them at the start of a new game when the machine is powered on again.
As for the teleport feature.. I think it will teleport when the "teleport" light is flashing. Haven't looked into this much as it usually locks the balls instead.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider shadowflame76.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-dungeons-and-dragons-dd-club-all-welcome?tu=shadowflame76 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
