(Topic ID: 64090)

Official Dungeons and Dragons D&D Club - All Welcome

By DarkWizard

10 years ago


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  • 811 posts
  • 109 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Chalkey
  • Topic is favorited by 50 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider koji.
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#572 1 year ago

New owner for D&d and also my first 6803...

Looking forward to getting serious play in once she's all cleaned up.

I was wondering if anyone could confirm or deny the existence of a strobe feature in the Backbox?
Per ipdb. Apparently there is one.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=743

I saw a unused harness, but it is unused in the Backbox photo from ipdb as well so presume that is common?

Also, my bb has a broken receiver for the presumably standard bulb it should take. I presume most might just line the bb with a led strip tho and use the same power feed from the transformer?

Thank you

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#575 1 year ago
Quoted from Velluminous:

To the best of my knowledge (and the parts manual), the topper has two strobe lights. Backbox just has a 34w lamp bulb in the center.
Also, you need to clip your C12. (See picture) http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/6803removecap.pdf
Grats on joining the club!
[quoted image]

Wow.. thanks for the tip!.. Thanks, glad I'm just missing the socket.. was thinking it might be a strobe like FG or something and I'd be hosed

Thank you-

#576 1 year ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

I dont suggest running a normal bulb as it is a hard concentration of heat on the center of the translite. Another option- mine runs this, works excellent and gives a nice even back light distribution. Is a standard bulb socket and the ends fold outwards for access to everything. Can get em on amazon, home depot etc.
[quoted image]

Awesome, thank you. I have one of those in my shed. Not sure which direction I want to go yet so far as led strips or something like that.. I suspect since my socket is mostly gone anyway, I might try some led strips I have around.

Thanks for the tip

#577 1 year ago

Any of you folks have an idea about controlled lamps going out intermittently?

I presume maybe I have a short somewhere but I don't know since the fuses are fine and I presume that or the scr would blow.. Maybe a pin or harness issue. . But i am guessing there are two circuits for controlled lamps. The flame and circular dust lamps seem to always be fine.. But often the other lamps (arrow teleport inserts, pops etc. Seem to be out.) I checked the fuses that I think the documentation points to on the power driver, it's just weird that they seem to come and go as I am cleaning this one out and changing lamps etc. Just wondering if this is somewhat common before I go digging too much. Thank you.

#578 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

Any of you folks have an idea about controlled lamps going out intermittently?
I presume maybe I have a short somewhere but I don't know since the fuses are fine and I presume that or the scr would blow.. Maybe a pin or harness issue. . But i am guessing there are two circuits for controlled lamps. The flame and circular dust lamps seem to always be fine.. But often the other lamps (arrow teleport inserts, pops etc. Seem to be out.) I checked the fuses that I think the documentation points to on the power driver, it's just weird that they seem to come and go as I am cleaning this one out and changing lamps etc. Just wondering if this is somewhat common before I go digging too much. Thank you.

Found it.. Just in case anyone has a similar issue.. Common side of circuit at the harness connecting to the power board is a bit burnt so I guess me jiggling it changing fuses was enough to have it work again for a while. Anyway.. Repinning in my future. But that's easy.

#579 1 year ago

Fun game.

When I first played it at the seller location, the set up seemed easy.. Had to drain my test ball that was going on too long.

After getting it all shopped out, a bit of incline, and I tried silicone rubbers (all I had around in the correct size), it's playing furiously... Nice short balls times.. Keeps the family coming back for one more game.

Had a socket from a bathroom vanity reno that was a good enough replacement for the original.. So just running a CFL until I can get a nicer spreading warm white led ring.

Question about the top left ramp.. I find it quite difficult to make it all the way from a flip.. Needs to basically have some good inertia and perfect timing. I presume this is desirable.. So I'm not going to try to adjust anything here.. Just wanted to see how the other club members shot is on this?

Anyway.. Pretty damn happy.. So many poor rating comments on this game.. Not that they are meaningful.. But just odd since when it is set up... Definitely not an easy game imo.... I might have a party for myself when I finally get mystical million.

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#580 1 year ago

Oh yeah.. Was also wondering how other examples are for insert lifting? Mine was pretty bad.. Took some time to heat and press whta I could back in place. Most of the flames were pretty bad.. But the mylar has kept the pf nice so I'm grateful for that...

But between those and the sockets from hell.. Maybe my finger tips will recover some day.

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#582 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

That’s a great looking D&D man

Thank you, yeah, I'm pretty happy, on the cleaner side of what I seem to come across these days. :/

#584 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Mylar would have been nice. My bonus numbers are all disappearing.
I think the left ramp shot should be makeable when you hit the lane well. This mostly has to do with your flipper mech wear and EOS adjustment.

Ok thanks, I'll check the mech more thoroughly. Right now it is do-able, but 9/10 times it does not have enough power to clear the ramp.. usually making it to the second switch and rolling back. I kind of like it like this, but it would make getting up dungeon levels near impossible.. but maybe that is a good thing.

Thanks-

#587 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

It could be flippers but I have found that it is usually an error in design. The ball doesn’t feed clean all the time and comes off the ball guide so it’s not riding on the flipper when you try and flip. Play with the guide a bit and try and get it turned a bit to keep the ball rolling down the guide and actually over the flipper bat

Thanks,. yeah I seem to be able to make it sometimes.. might be a bit easier since I tried a quick clean and a adjustment per @chalkey. My bushing is def. a bit worn.. I'll look to rebuild this at some point, but I like the idea of the original mech, I just have this feeling, that it really should_ be a difficult shot.. otherwise, mystical million would be a no brainer strategy?

I guess I was just sort of wondering is a general consensus of how difficult of a shot it should be?.. I like the idea that it is something to strive for. The feed is not too bad. Def. better odds of getting it when it comes down the ramp, as you have that extra inertia to work with.

#589 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Shoot on mine it's harder to get all the drops down! I love that shot though, I wish that the left ramp stayed down during multiball to allow this as a strategy.

Interesting. Yeah I can pretty easily power up the right ramp.. It's the left.. At least to go all the way that is tough.. But cool.. Made it to level 3 now and over 1 mill flame bonus.. That was pretty crazy.

Game has some kind of crazy one more game factor.. I've gone through quite a few titles.. Not sure what it is.. Maybe the sound going in my head.. One more game.. Maybe it will sate.

#590 1 year ago

Was thinking how are airballs for you guys? Mines ok.. But once in a while I get some crazy ones.. More so than any other pre 90s classic anyway.

#592 1 year ago
Quoted from Velluminous:

I mainly got airballs from the plunger during launch. Have had the ball fly out of the shooting lane and hit the drop target area. To prevent that and protect my plastics, I put a piece of clear acrylic over the shooter lane that runs from the two rubber post caps down to the plunger. Think I've had it air ball off a bumper once.
I don't have a stock shooter rod though, so I don't know if that's contributing to the airball issue. Bought my machine where the previous owner stuck the glow-in-the-dark Stranger Things D20 shooter rod on there. I do have the original shooter rod and will stick it back on there at some point.

That's weird.. housing must be mis-aligned or something. It is curious though, as deadflip was having trouble on launch as well.

Mine seems to be quite good.. about 30% power to get skill shot... full plunge will just loop around 100%. Pretty sure the rod is OE.

I just meant airballs from the flippers mostly.. I've hit the left side ramp shot hard enough to see the ball flip down the left side rail to drain.

I've had a few somehow bounce around back into the shooter lane... it's not terrible or frequent.. was just wondering

#593 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Shoot on mine it's harder to get all the drops down! I love that shot though, I wish that the left ramp stayed down during multiball to allow this as a strategy.

I presume you mean the right ramp?

In a way, it does on a Warrior 2-ball?

#595 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Yeah I meant right ramp whoops.
I dont have airballs on mine. Check for loose posts or raised inserts.
I tell everybody that comes to play that you have to put about 20 games on it to get used to the magic save system. After that you will probably fall in love.

Interesting. Yeah, my inserts and posts are ok. could be the pitch / incline.. although it's not too much on mine.. It's a fast playing game. About 1 in 10 games or so, I might see a crazy airball.. just curious about other set ups... maybe the prev. owner juiced the flippers up.. they seem pretty strong, but this is my first 6803.

Yeah, magic save was a easy transition for my family, since we owned a Sharkey's Shootout and own a Black knight.. haha

#598 1 year ago

Had my D&D on an impromptu stream last night... figured I'd share, had such a blast playing, but always have trouble making shots with cameras on, and in the way. Anyway, figured I'd share it here.

Highlighted one of those stuck magic saves that work out, and finally got my mystical million shot that was eluding me:

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1475564858

#602 1 year ago
Quoted from Velluminous:

So quick question... What should I use to clean/wax the plastics and playfield?
Obviously there's some differences between a 1987 machine and something like a new Stern; What's good for one may not be good for the other. I see a lot of people talking about Novus 2 to clean and 1 to wax/polish (particularly for NEWER pins) but want to be sure that something like that would be safe (not stripping away paint or coating) because it's an older machine.

Depends on how dirty we are talking.

For a dirty machine, I like to start with naptha. It is good to break down old wax, and also remove dirt. I try to lift the dirt away as much as possible.

I'll then go to Novus2 as a polish, and go over the PF.

That's really good enough. Wax is a preference, I generally like to apply a light carnauba as I find it increases the speed of the machine.

---

I generally reserve Novus1 for heavy CC PFs, since it is has a lot of water in it... but TBH,. it's probably fine as well for quick cleans.

I don't have experience with any other polishes, I've used this product on machines from the 1960s to 2019 with no issue.

Many people will use some alcohol as well, generally this is ok.. but I have had some varnishes react to it, so I prefer naptha over it. If unsure, always best to test an area under the apron etc.

1 month later
#614 1 year ago
Quoted from Velluminous:

Well... No luck in finding just a topper. Messaged quite a few people, put in bids for just a topper, etc. So... I bought a whole second machine w/topper.
Totally reasonable solution, right? Made a 12hr round-trip today to get it. Guess now I need to put one up for sale.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice!.. It really is an amazing topper.

1 month later
#648 1 year ago
Quoted from FullTilt_Pinball:

I realized mine is also doing this.. Does anyone know what the fix is?

Mine is slightly lower on the left on the top, however, PF is level and square on that corner, so I'm guessing it is just the cut and fit of the back pieces.. As the back panel, is secured and could not move that much.

My guess is that perhaps it is a bit of an adjustment, the original question photo of this seems like quite a difference.. so perhaps a prev owner adjusted the bracket on the back to allow the left ramp to be bent down somewhat.. this would come out like a sag, but would make the dungeon advance a lot easier.

Personally I think mine is set up quite well.. the shot is extremely difficult on my set up.. but do-able with just the perfect shot from the upper right. Prob 1/20 good attempts making in through.. lol

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3 weeks later
#651 1 year ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Odd request! - can someone take a picture of the underside of their lockdown bar…. After all these years I think I have the wrong one on my machine - it’s never really locked right.
Thanks!

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#654 1 year ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Much thanks Morgoth00 and koji ! Actually mine does look like that but definitely does not sit tight on the cabinet. It seems like it’s hitting on that piece of steel that sticks down behind the beer seal… hmmm

Never had to adjust this type before. But maybe there is a way on the underside of the receiver?

1 month later
#693 1 year ago
Quoted from topkat:

I have one coming soon. Is it possible to move it with a regular harbor lift, and just use something to support the angled area?
If not, does anyone have an easy solution to moving it.
thanks

It's a bit awkward, but it can be moved like any other machine.. just need to be a little careful as it can be tippy because of the angle.

3 weeks later
#697 1 year ago
Quoted from topkat:

I cant get the ball to make it up the ramp on the plung for the skill shot. Its weak, and usually ends up around the standup targets. Right now its a very tight spring (red), which I will try switching, but I am wondering if its likely a misaligned housing? ( more of an off center hit on the ball) I have read there have been a few others with a similar issue, you have a solution please let me know.

Have some photos? Sounds like the ball might not be positioned well in the shooter lane as you have stated... Shooter rod otherwise in good shape?

#703 1 year ago
Quoted from topkat:

Got a couple photos.
I don’t think the correct spring is in either. The red one seems so stiff. [quoted image][quoted image]

Here's mine that works perfectly.

Going to guess it is one step down from red.. Whatever that is. Definitely a stiff spring.. Not quite red stiff

Ball makes contact with rubber tip on mine... So maybe mine is coming out a bit further?

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#704 1 year ago
Quoted from topkat:

Got a couple photos.
I don’t think the correct spring is in either. The red one seems so stiff. [quoted image][quoted image]

Also check the shooter lane guide that the ball takes. Make sure there is no play on this and see if you can adjust the angle at all.. On mine a half plunge is about right for a skill shot.. Any more will go around the top ramp and come out the other end.

1 month later
#711 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Only took 8 months? Not sure
New decals,powder coat everything,plastics,on and on
Finally flipping my D&D
Topper going on tomorrow finally got the decals on it
So many people helped me get this to this point I just can’t believe I’m flipping it[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hopefully you mean, flipping in the literal sense of utilizing the flippers to play games.. and not the selling sense

#713 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

That’s exactly what I mean can’t believe I’m actually playing it not selling no didn’t mean that

Awesome! Glad you can finally enjoy it! I sure love mine.

#715 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I am having a problem where the game plays normal until I lock a ball in “wizard escape “ or “warrior escape”
The second ball goes into play like normal,then when it starts hitting things it will trigger the out hole switch thus abruptly ending the ball every time
Can play one ball forever as long as you don’t load the tunnels
The “teleport loaded switches are on the same row as the outhole but they test fine and I’ve checked the diodes on the whole row

4-balls loaded in machine? maybe closely check the escape drop switches? when the mechanism is down, I believe 2 switches are closed.

Guessing if some switch in the trough or escape holes is perhaps confusing the machine?

1 month later
#740 1 year ago
Quoted from Firebird71:

So I have joined the club today! Cabinet is a bit rough but the pf looks really nice and it has the topper.
I don't have it set up and playing in the house yet. Moving pins into place in the house involves taking stairs out and chainfalls so we will be finishing that up tomorrow morning.
One thing I noticed with the topper. The 3 bulbs in there where the dragon illustration is... When I was testing the game at the sellers place today, they seemed not bright enough to really do a proper job of showing off the art behind the plexiglass. Sorry if it's already been asked in here, I haven't read the entire thread yet, but has anyone found the same thing and tried something to brighten it up a bit?

I ended up with this. Kind of like just the Blue (which was a white LED IIRC), but my kid liked the idea of it looking like they are fighting, so my test is how it stayed... lol

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#741 1 year ago

Looks like I used 3x Flexible wedge LEDs

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1 month later
#753 1 year ago

Wow. worthy of the worst hacks thread perhaps.

Here is an old photo I dug up from when I was going through mine, so you have a reference. I think the switch went along side where the gate wire bends beside the blue ramp. Wire had flipped on the outside of the leaf, so presume the prev owner did not have the glory of advancing levels.

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2 months later
#770 10 months ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

Anyone have recommendations on using LEDs in the inserts? Using 1SMD non ghosting bulbs from Comet and getting bad flickering and strobing in inserts and also strangely the incandescent flashers.

The lamp driver creates a shimmer effect by design. Likely this is what you are seeing. I like it with leds.. If you are having harsh flicker.. Just confirm you have some higher quality lamps anti flicker from Comet. Could try the flux type as well. You should not need the resister on this game afaik, but there seem to be differences in the 6803 Era so who knows

3 weeks later
#773 9 months ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

I'm having an issue with my D&D where if I brick the teleport shot and the ball doesn't stay in the teleporter (still in play) the game will still act as if the ball was successfully locked in the teleporter and kick a new ball out. I've tested the teleporter empty and teleporter loaded switches and all check out fine. Brand new opto boards on the trough so it's likely not that. Can happen with either teleporter too which is frustrating. Open to trying anything, hoping to get the game on location soon!

Interesting. When the shot bricks, does the teleporter still drop down and then kick back up instantly?

Diagnostic switch test ok?

Maybe try increasing the gap on the switches, or making sure there is good tension (just thinking as the mech shoots down and up, the leaf might bounce and hold the connection too long?

#776 9 months ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

Okay so...i just swapped the old opto receiver board back in (the one that was giving me a little bit of trouble but not this much) and the game is no longer doing this. ugh, i wish somebody besides PindoraBox would make one.

Hmm.. yeah, some of these custom boards can have weak solder points.. I've needed to reflow everything, but they can be solid after that.. the components and circuit are quite simple.

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