Howdy all.

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Does anybody know where to look in (or on) this game, for the manufacturer's serial number? I've got a tag inside, but I don't know if that's a serial number tag or some other number.

On my Fireball II, it is stamped on the side of the cabinet, and on the backbox. On D&D, no easily discernible sign of a number anywhere.

Nevermind, found it. And now I know why it took so long to find it

I could use a set of those as well.

Also, is anybody using an aftermarket set of scoring displays in their machine? I am having an issue getting after-market's to work, a logic issue from the control board, not an issue with newer displays.

If I missed this earlier, my apologies. Are you making water slide decals?

looking at some of the creative use of dragon figures, makes me wish there was a practical way to incorporate my Smaug incense burner somewhere on the machine.

It is way to big, though.

The game uses 555 and 89 bulbs

I asked earlier but want to ask again, with a little more specificity.

Is everyone still using the original plasma high voltage displays in their D&D's? If not, which brand of display did you choose? Did you run into any issues?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for being repetitive so close to the last time I asked. I promise not to do it again

I would like to try those inserts, but the field doesn't need a clear coat. I also have a spare playfield, and I am seriously beginning to contemplate stripping off the hardware that's still left on it and spray clearing it.

But that would be make work, not sure I want to go there yet. I removed the mylar from the actual game years ago. It actually came up fairly easily, except of course for the inserts. They're still readable, but they're not like they should be.

Nice job, and good effort. You're going all in on the restoration and your work to this point looks great.

+1 to that suggestion.

I am about 85% done with all connectors in my D&D, including the board mounts. The MPU is completely done, as is the sound card. I would like to find an aftermarket cable kit from the MPU to the displays. I am contemplating making a new harness, as I have yet to find such an aftermarket kit. Lot of work there, though. I still have the door connector and a couple of harness connectors to go. I am in no hurry to do the bigger connectors as per examination they look really good. The door connector, that one is next. It's going to be a PITA because it's so small.

And on the 6803 power supply board. Board side. They're relatively easy to do if you have a working knowledge of soldering. It is relatively straightforward.

You can get the board side connectors at Great Lakes Electronics. Probably Digi-key and Mouser as well.

From another 6803 thread I started about 14 months ago - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-capacitors-for-6803-mpu-sdb

Update:
Sent my 6803 MPU board to Eldorado Games. Talked to John yesterday, and was told that there is nothing wrong with the board. He also told me that SW1 on that board doesn't do anything. The board checked out good on the test bench, so it appears that my XPin displays just do not work with this particular version of the 6803 MPU.

So now, I'm "stuck" trying to find some newer displays that this MPU will be able to talk to. He said something about different versions of the 6803, so if that's true - and atm I have no reason to disbelieve that after my 14 month trek with this game and those newer displays, I'm hoping that there are some versions out there like Pinscore or Pinball Solutions that may resolve the issue. I've looked for replacement high voltage 14 digit displays, but those seem to almost as rare as a dinosaur.
I wonder if there is a way to get them to work. I wonder if anybody would even be willing to put the effort forth.
Any opinions? Any suggestions? Does anybody have a Dungeons & Dragons pin that is using XPin's? If so, what Revision of the displays are they? I have a pair of Revision A's.

Putting this post here, in hopes that I'll stir somebody up with a potential solution. Thanks in advance if anybody can help.

Gratuitous repeat: anybody using newer displays, specifically in a D&D?

Anyway, thanks for that rumor info on the toppers. I got my D&D off an e-bay sale back in the spring of 2007, $900, plus $300 to NAVL to get it shipped to me. I wish the artwork were of the painted variety, instead of the decal style. My wife hated this game, until she realized she loved it. Kept trying to get me to sell it because it was taking up space.

Now, it would take the National Guard to get it out of the house. And I'm good with that. I told her she would end up liking it. The problem was my Fireball II restoration project, but more importantly, a like NIB Lord of the Rings that arrived the same day as the D&D showed up. That was a great day, two pins in one delivery.

Everything he just said. You think it's fast, wait til you do a complete flipper rebuild....

T minus five for launch, Houston

You might want to check the connectors on the board. Without knowing anything about your game, look for brown spots, signs of over-heating on the SDB, if you already have not done that. It could just be an old fuse. Did it stop working while you were playing it, or did you power it up and no 5v?

The tech chart I have just says 6A 250v for F3.

A recent fuse story from here: I swapped out some inserts from my spare playfield to the active playfield, and although I was extremely careful pulling out, and then putting the new ones in, somehow I ended up blowing the fuse under my playfield. Didn't bang anything, no blunt force trauma, just up and died. I have no idea how old it was, but it was on the game playfield when I got my D&D in 2007.

It may have just given up the ghost. I would check all of your fuses for continuity, while you're in there. Can't hurt, and it doesn't take that long.

You really might want to look at the back of that SDB board and see if any of the solder connections on the back are bad. I had one do that, and while I didn't blow fuses, I got flaky behavior from time to time, specifically one that identified a blown Fuse alert on the displays, FU3 to be exact.

I ended up replacing every connector in the backbox (harness side) and every soldered connector on the SDB. I would pull that SDB out and check those connections on the back. Bad connectors can cause a lot of bad - and wierd - problems.

edit to add:

With an old game like this, that wasn't used for that long, you also might want to consider replacing the capacitors on all of your boards. It's not hard to do.

I don't know your level of experience and don't want to assume one way or the other.

This is a thread I started over a year ago, and it dealt with trying to solve issues not completely unrelated to yours, but it should or could help you track down the problem.

Capacitors, connectors and cleaning are the best maintenance over time for pinball machines.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-capacitors-for-6803-mpu-sdb

Solenoid Driver Board, the board that had the blown fuse. The bottom board.

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That picture was taken after I replaced the capacitors, but before I had to rebuild the high voltage section and before I replaced the board side connectors. Check that 12 pin connector on the left middle side of the board. That could be where some of your problems are originating, or it could be the conduit.

Sorry for the quality of some of these pictures. This is a BGRESTO backglass restoration. I especially like the reinforcement around the edges, using Gorilla fixit tape. The restoration artwork colors are much richer and deeper. I had to play around with several new bulbs to get it to look the way we liked when the game is on.

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That's good news. It's always nice when it's a simple fix. But, and you have probably figured this out already, once you start playing it, don't be surprised if you find little bugs and quirky behavior, especially since this game has not been played very much for a long time. I would still seriously consider re-working the connectors, and maybe start with those displays. Lowering the voltage is a good thing. Those connectors at the displays can cause some strange issues on the displays.

It's not hard to do them, once you get a feel for doing it.

Did you pull that Driver board from the backbox and check the connectors and traces on the back of it?

It doesn't work that way. Push the flipper buttons, and you will get your attract sound, followed by some animations that illustrate game play. Our Lord of the Rings pin is the same way. Our Fireball II says, on it's own accord: Fireball Awaits You!

I only have three pins, but it seems as though most games require some action on the part of a player before attract sounds actually play, if they are set.

What Tallon said.

Just a question, that I hope doesn't seem off topic. What are the game settings for the ball traps? Do you have it set to eject both balls upon game completion?

I have had the wire get stuck closed on Skill shot three, tweaking it fixes it for the most part and it hasn't happened in some time. The only instance I have experienced on my game, with the ball traps doing what you are describing, occurred with the game set to not eject both balls at completion of the game.

I don't think there is another switch after that gate switch at the top of Skill 3, or I am misunderstanding what you are describing.

Been busy, just got a Fireball 1972 edition, plus other things going on. I don't think there is but one version of the code. When I was working my XPIN issue, I burned new roms, using that code. The game didn't play differently. I wish I could see what it's doing. Maybe it's just a quirky switch or something.

Well, my right side scoring display, after functioning flawlessly for the past few months, started misbehaving again. It worked, but digits were faded in some spots. It came and it went the last few days. I think that board needs to be rebuilt, and that's no small task.

With all of the problems I had with the XPIN's not working on this game, I decided to order a set of Pinscore displays. They came this morning, plugged them in and they work flawlessly.

Not sure why the XPIN's had an issue communicating with the game, or vice-versa, but I never could get them to work on this machine. So, if any of you folks need new displays for your D&D, this is more information to consider before making a purchase. This is no knock against XPIN boards, because it has been reported that they work in 6803 machines, but I had no luck whatsoever getting them to work in my particular D&D. Maybe it's the font, but honestly I have to confess that is just throwing something up against the wall at this point in time.

Brett is a great guy, stands by his products and I would not hesitate to buy any of his other products, should the need arise. His prices are better than other competitors, and the quality is outstanding. This was one of those weird issues that crop up from time to time.

A-24-570/34-3600

You can find the tech chart here - http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

click on the Bally tab on the left, then scroll down to Dungeons & Dragons.

Started having weird issues with the credit button. Switch was fine, e.g., gaps contacts, etc. Board boots up fine, diodes metered within spec, everything was fine. It would work sometimes and not others. Reflowing the connections on the credit button switch fixed the problem.

Just got this light today and installed.

WOW!!!

Highly recommend. Really brightens up my BGRESTO backglass restoration.

Thanks for the recommendation Morgoth.

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On another note (new project upcoming).

Anybody that has pulled and replaced the cabinet/backbox decals, any tips on the easiest way to get the old crap off?

Has anybody installed the Britemod flipper button kit in their machine? If so, what did you think? Did it function properly and look good?

Can anybody verify that Bally part numbers C-904 and C-905 (flipper button and housing) were used in D&D machines?

Thanks Tallon

The glass that the topper translite sits between is a royal pain in the butt with trim. The stuff that is on the game right now just doesn't fit. I am working on lighting mods right now, to brighten the game up a bit, and that topper is at the top of the list. Just added trim to the to do list.

Your picture inspired me, went in a slightly different direction though. And just used some NG LED's from Comet pinball. Turned out nice.

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