(Topic ID: 64090)
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Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
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Windermere, FL
1 week later
Starting to look at my machine a bit more (still excited to say "mine" 
) and it looks like there is a battery soldered to the upper right of the cpu board!? I assume some preventative maintenance should be to get it off there? Is there any other preventative maintainence I should be looking at? I know these 6803 machines seem to be made of pretty stern stuff, but worth asking?
Thanks! Looks like some good info. 
From the page -
1) replace the battery on board with off board battery holder
2) per the Bally service bulletin, remove cap c12 on the sounds deluxe board
3) for preventive maintenance, I am replacing the trough opto boards with the GLM redesign
Thanks!! 
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from flipperilaakso:3. I have brand new repro plastic set from CPR. Any of you who have changed them in your machines care to give any hints / tips on replacing the clear plastics attached to those thin metal posts? I tried to pull the posts off from old plastic by hand and feels like PITA job. Is there any trick to remove the posts from old plastic and attaching them to new plastic? I will put a picture here to show which type I mean.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
I wonder if anyone sells just the metal stand up posts? If so you could attach them to the new plastics with something like a grommet punch?
Quoted from flipperilaakso:2. I'm missing two flipper switch screws, any idea which size they are? Coming from Europe I'm always confused with imperial units.
Mine were #4-40 screws of various lengths....
I feel like this should have been one of my first questions now that mine's almost done, but to raise the playfield do you guys pull back towards the front and flip up on the little thin sheets of plywood glued to the inside of the cabinet, then use the arm? It seems incredibly unstable. What about flipping up to work on something like the pop-bumper coils? I've also not figured out what the point is of the multiple steps in those same plywood pieces glued to the cabinet are for.
Quoted from Tallon:I usually get this when I'm working on the playfield and the teleport drops without a ball in it. There is a switch in the bottom of the cup to read a ball being locked. If it doesn't read it (ball goes in and bounces out before it can drop and it drops empty) it will reset the teleport to the up position. Check the switch, diode, and wires.
Thanks!
Now that you pointed it out I can feel the switch button in the black plastic cup. Sneaky!
In case anyone didn't see these in the TILT graphics thread... check these out!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tilt-graphics-inc-mods/page/8#post-3211289
Quoted from Tallon:Oh your killing me
I'm still hoping for the front cabinet / coin door version.... Sans dragons 
So I'm almost done going through mine (including new coil sleeves , etc) and I have one peculiar issue. The ball eject(?) that loads the ball from the trough into the shooter lane to start a game is so forceful, many times the ball bounces back into the ball trough, causing it to try to load it again. Rinse, repeat, then after three times the machine errors out. I feel like there should be some adjust on this (there isn't a lot of force needed to load a ball for a game) but I can't find any. Any thoughts on this?
1 year later
Welcome to the club, Remf! I love my D&D; it easily gets the most plays of my machines.
Interesting that yours has a center post between the flippers?
One tip I can share if you haven't already - change the backbox bulb to a florescent or LED asap so you don't cook your translite!
2 weeks later
Welcome to the club! I has to shim mine with washed to get a good alignment. It's particularly importantly on this game in order to get the ball to shoot across the playfield, through the gate and around the ramp behind the playfield back.
2 weeks later
So - anybody here win the original D&D playfield art on Ebay? Got too rich for my blood... 
ebay.com link: Bally 039 s Dungeons and Dragons Original Playfield Artwork by Pat McMahon Signed
2 weeks later
Hoping to find a like minded individual to pair up on this.
For those interested in a brick pattern graphic for the front of the cabinet (and have some graphic skills), I have some high res scans of of the blue brick pattern, that I'm hoping we can turn into a file that can be printed out. I think we just need to duplicate the pattern into a large enough wall, and scale to fit.
I have some other small ideas as well, but if you're interest in working on this send em a PM and I can share you the files I have. Would love to get this done for those interested!
1 week later
Quoted from ShadowFlame76:Yes, i have the same issue with my machine . Did you figure out a way to resolve the problem ?
I had the same problem - had to adjust about a 100 times before I got it right!
Stupid question on lifting the playfield - I always feel like I am grinding the back corners of the playfield on the 3/8 plywood attached to the sides of the cabinet that it's supposed to rest on when lifted. Also, it never feels secure and at least a couple times the playfield has gotten twisted. Is there a better way to lift?
Also, I thought some plastic rails to slide the playfield on that were a bit wider would be a great mod for these machines.
Quoted from ShadowFlame76:Thank you for your reply. Do you have any tips on which way to bend the leaf? should it be bent forward? sideways?. I appreciate your responses. I don't look forward to lifting the playfield hopefully will only have to do it once or bend the switch from the gate area itself. Not exactly the best skill shot design..
I bent mine back... also played with bending the arm of the gate sideways to adjust where it triggers the leaf. I set it so it barely triggered to keep things from hanging up.
Quoted from ShadowFlame76:Thank you, I assume you bent the arm to the right towards the wire ball trail?
yep - exactly!
2 weeks later
Quoted from ShadowFlame76:To anyone with a Dungeons and Dragons pinball machine.. on the 4 pop bumpers only the lowest one on my machine has a top on it, this is the one not under the plastic.
The ones that are under the plastic are basically open with no tops is that correct?
That’s the way they came... I ended up putting lighted pop covers on mine to add some light to that area....
2 months later
I'm having a heck of a time with my left side outline, where my ball hangs about 50% of the passes through that lane. I've already adjusted the star rollover to have barely ANY tension to it (along with a new star rollover as well), and I still get the ball stuck in the same place. I've also ensured there's no wax, etc in the star post area to eliminate any drag on the star rollover. It only happens when the ball is at a slower speed.
I'm wondering if I have the wrong post on the back side of the sling that could be causing a "flat spot" on the rubber from the top sling star post to the next post counterclockwise? I have a star post at the top of the sling, then going counterclockwise from the top I have a narrow post.
This really gets frustrating, because it seems about a 1/3 of my games end this way and I can't rock it out without tilting.
Thoughts?
Quoted from dr_nybble:Hope this is useful: » YouTube video
Thanks!
I'm now wondering is the rubber is just a bit too big, so it doesn't get the proper slope to the outline. Hmm...
2 weeks later
Just gotta say I want to cry over dumb ebayers right now.
I won last week what was probably the last NOS D&D translite in existence. it was not cheap.
I explicitly reached out out to the seller to ask him to be extra careful in shipping it.
What do I get - it's FOLDED in a BOX. 
The seller is taking it back with a refund (I'm shipping it back to him tomorrow), but it just really stinks since I can't imagine there's more out there 
1 month later
Quoted from ShadowFlame76:I am having an issue with my D&D machine, The top right flipper is weak and has a lot of movement, basically you can move the top flipper all around even when holding in the flipper button. The bottom flippers are fine. What would cause the issue with the top right flipper? could it be a board issue or is it most likely something mechanical?
Just wondering if I should spend the money on a rebuild kit. I looked under the playfield and the coil is not burned or even a little brown. I suppose it could be some other part of the flipper mech?
Help Please
I had similar problems. I'd recommend springing for the flipper rebuild kit. I did all 3 of mine, and really helped the game a lot.
While I was in there, I actually replaced my upper flipper with the same style blue flipper to color-coordinate with the wall plastics as well.
Quoted from jedi42:OK, that is very cool. Would love to know more about how you did it. Please expand.
I scanned the side graphics and "built" a solid wall of the pattern to match exactly the height of the bricks on the sides - it was important to me they align at the corners, and those bricks are not all the same height!
Then I took and after several attempts, on the third printing I got one I liked. It's a matte finish, which wasn't exactly like the slides since they are sink screened graphics, but the color matches exactly. I tried a semi gloss and an gloss, and the color faded out or just looked "wrong".
I am sure someone with better artistic ability could have gotten better - I tried to give away the scan images in the hope someone would make these! - but overall it came out pretty good I think. I would have loved to have the "Dungeons & Dragons" banner from the side repeated at the bottom of the coin door, or maybe a cool dragon around the shooter rod or start button, but it was much better than my old chipped, black cabinet.
3 months later
Sharing... my new Dungeons & Dragons Backglass (yes, not a translite). Colors are very bright and saturated when off, when it's on I need to change the bulb behind it to make it less intense and perhaps whited to spread the light out.
Graphics really pop now though!
IMG_1543 (resized).jpgIMG_1544 (resized).jpgIMG_1545 (resized).jpgQuoted from Whysnow:where and how much?
I had it custom made based on my scanned artwork. I also have the original artwork that the translite was based on, and color corrected to that.
Cost me ~200
Quoted from needz:I've got a Dungeons and Dragons translite listed for sale on Facebook. Figured I'd post it here too. $230, shipped in sturdy tube to CONUS.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
word of advice - DO NOT SHIP THAT TRANSLITE IN A TUBE. It will crack and the art will be ruined. The material is too thick to easily roll. I speak from experience.....
1 month later
Quoted from Nds777:Does anyone have a set of insert decals for sale?
Also, what kind of bulbs are the “bright lights”?
Not sure what you mean by the bright lights question..... something specific you’re referring to?
2 months later
So got an interesting note from CPR last week - they have completed the artwork for the secondary play fields, and have a scan from a NOS D&D Playfield! No work on timing, but good news none the less. I’m sure more requests to CPR would help move this title along!
3 months later
Quoted from textaddict:Can anybody help me figure out the P/N or potential replacement for the locking bar on my D&D? The Bally docs I have don't seem to call it out separate from the cabinet unfortunately. This one is pretty worn out so I'd love to find a new one for it. Thanks, -Steve
A Standard Bally should work... https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-standard-size-stainless-steel-lockdown-bar-with-epoxied-under-carriage-circa-1974-1988.html
2 months later
Quoted from CullenT:Hello everyone.
Ordering a set of replacement rubber. Do most folks go with the white set? The ones I am replacing are yellow.
Interested to learn what color/mix might work best.
Thanks
CT
I did mine in blue to coordinate with the plastics
Quoted from Les73gtx:I ordered orange superbands for mine I feel that there is enough blue in the plastics .... will be doing so other mods as well
Awesome! What other mods re you doing? Post pics when you get them done!
Quoted from Les73gtx:I need a couple pictures of that upper flipper from some owners ... mine is hacked and I have only seen one other that had a good angle ... looked like a star post and a 1 inch rubber to the gate post but I am not sure that was right ... I have a new plastic set and I am sure that plastic is the only thing that goes there just not broken in the picture ... Show me what you got[quoted image]
Mine's packed up right now from moving... hopefully someone can jump in here!
Quoted from Les73gtx:https://www.artstation.com/artwork/OyPnav
ummm looking for some art work and I came across this .... anyone know anything about this?
Scroll down and see all the images
Cool! but looks like someone's computer graphics project. In the earlier pictures, you can tell it's a model as the shading's off.
2 weeks later
Quoted from JiePieWie:Hello to all! Last weekend I bought a D&D pinball machine which has been in a cellar for more than 16 years. No topper unfortunately but it still works
I do have one question: how do I remove the backbox so I can transport this machine? Anybody has some guide/step-by-step instructions how to get this machine ready for transportation? Any other tips what to take into account before moving?
There's 2 bolts in the head to remove. Pull the translite, and they should be at the bottom. I'm not sure the size. Then you can fold the head down.
Generally before moving a machine - PULL THE BALLS OUT!!! Before I fold down a head, I use a moving blanket or a shag rug on the glass, then fold the head down onto that. Keeps everything from wearing. Once you get the machine lifted up (however works for you, but be sure if you support it from the bottom it's supported all the way across from the sides so you don't blow out the bottom) then you can unbolt the legs. Put the KEYS, LEG BOLTS and BACKBOX Bolts into a bag, and attach to the inside of the coin door. I wrap the legs separately from the machine.
Hope that helps!
4 months later
Not sure if anyone's interested, but saw this on CPR's website- a D&D "Topper" (so your topper can have a topper?) https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/dnd/
It's toppers all the way down, I guess. Hopefully they'll work on a Playfield next!
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from jlbintn:Sorry for the quality of some of these pictures. This is a BGRESTO backglass restoration. I especially like the reinforcement around the edges, using Gorilla fixit tape. The restoration artwork colors are much richer and deeper. I had to play around with several new bulbs to get it to look the way we liked when the game is on.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I do LOVE my BGRESTO D&D backglass, but I still hold out hope that CPR will do a bag with mirroring!
3 months later
Just saw these come up on Ebay. I have to wonder about the "licensed" in this case, since they don't seem to match the originals.
Anyone know anything about these guys?
11 months later
Quoted from SMP14:Hi! Took awhile to read all of this thread
I have a D&D almost working, just a few things that I have questions about.
During gameplay, all I hear are the gongs and no music or laughing by the witch or the dragon. Not sure why, might be in the sounds testing, but very stumped because some of the sound works.
When the back pop bumper triggers, the right one triggers as well, but when I try to activate the right one, nothing happens. Is there messed up wiring somewhere?
Other question is that when I have 3 balls installed in the game, its says ball missing but adding a 4th ball starts the game. The trough opto board I got had 4 emitters but only 3 receivers so I added another receiver. Was this the play or what was I supposed to do instead? I was reading that 4 balls is the way but when I look elsewhere I see that 3 balls should only be installed.
Thanks for the help!
Don't know the answer to any other questions, but replacing the through onto boards with the Great Lakes Electronics ones definitely fixed a few errors for me!
2 weeks later
Quoted from dung:Can anyone take pics of their topper wiring? I am fixing up a game but the topper is, odd.
The sides are just rectangular, no art. The holes in the head for the topper bolts are not the same as on the topper. The topper has a single plug the fits a plug in the head, but only the flashers work correctly.
Do you mean inside the topper, or where it connects in the head?
Quoted from Gotpins:Can someone in here measure the actual glass size for the translite? My glass is missing and it looks like it may be slightly larger than the trans light itself if I measure the back box opening.
Also, can someone post a close up pic of the top backglass channel. My backbox is missing some wood parts that hold the backglass in. I have a good idea what it should look like but I’d like to make it match the original as much as possible. A pic of what it should look like would be really helpful. Thanks!!!
I'll try this week!
3 months later
2 months later
Quoted from CPR:Hey Guys;
Someone from this group reached out and asked if we were making a D&D PF in the future. I thought I'd post here so more people were aware of the direction.
I have a PF set here that I’ll be doing the CAD for over the next month or so. Stu has the artwork complete and we have the inserts and wood in stock so it should get made and hopefully for sale in the early spring, maybe even earlier if I can get some spare time to finish the CAD earlier. It’ll of course be a PF set, the mini’s are just cut out of the one piece of wood which will help to keep the price down. Check out some of Stu’s custom D&D backglasses on our website. He really likes the theme and the game so he went above and beyond.
Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com
This is fabulous news! 100% buy when I see it!
1 month later
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Does anyone have a scan of the apron for D&D? I just picked one up that is super nice, but a prior owner removed a sticker by scraping to the metal. I could make a decal that would suffice if I had the artwork for the offending area.
[quoted image]
O M G that hurts to just look at!
1 month later
Quoted from Tallon:There isn’t last I checked. People have been soldering diodes on the 555 sockets from pinball resource I think
I wonder if these become a good candidate for something like the Yoppsickle? Especially if CPR get's their PF done and you do a swap.
1 month later
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I feel like I’m gonna go for cab decals
Any suggestions at all to taking these off?
The type of wood used for the cab makes me wonder
Curious where you might be getting them - quality?
Quoted from SMP14:Someone said CPR is making a playfield for this game?? Can anyone confirm thanks
Yes, they have the art done. It's just getting them to pull the trigger.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:So pumped to have new decals can’t wait to put these babies on
Post when you get the new ones! where did these come from?
1 month later
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I did black on the coin door and neck bracket and speaker panel and I did the legs close to original color
I think with the new stainless I think it’s all going to tie in well I just couldn’t get the legs on today cause I don’t have the standoffs yet
[quoted image][quoted image]
WOW those are amazing? Where are those from? Does the set include all the head art up to and including the topper? I wonder if they would make a matching set with just the brick in front (I have mine already with the brink in front that I had scanned and printed, and really prefer it in my lineup!)
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:eBay arcadeamusements? I believe
Had some issues with the first batch he was all over it and worked to get them perfect
I really can’t say enough about the guy who makes them good dude
They are real nice and yes head and topper and front brick included
I’m not using the front brick but I do have the topper and will be doing that but first the head as I do one thing at a time
Was it this guy? Those look nice.
Capture (resized).PNGQuoted from Spacemanratso09:Yup those are them I would totally back buying them
Thanks! Just pulled the trigger on them!
1 week later
Quoted from Velluminous:I mainly got airballs from the plunger during launch. Have had the ball fly out of the shooting lane and hit the drop target area. To prevent that and protect my plastics, I put a piece of clear acrylic over the shooter lane that runs from the two rubber post caps down to the plunger. Think I've had it air ball off a bumper once.
I don't have a stock shooter rod though, so I don't know if that's contributing to the airball issue. Bought my machine where the previous owner stuck the glow-in-the-dark Stranger Things D20 shooter rod on there. I do have the original shooter rod and will stick it back on there at some point.
This is funny… I just fired up my D&D after a while last night for. Few plays and for the first time had this exact problem. I need to take a look and see what’s going on, but I suspect the plunger tip is too low.
2 months later
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:Are they gonna make the playfields for this beast at CPR,like for real?
I know they have the art! I understand the back glasses did not sell well….
Quoted from Chalkey:It's cuz it is a perfectly good translite on most games. It shouldn't sell nearly as good as something that replaces a 40 year old flaking backglass.
I have a version of the translite made into a backglass - same art, which is awesome and tied back too the game. If they had made a mirrored version of the same art I’d have been all over it, but the photoshop stuff just doesn’t look right, esp with the topper art.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Lermods:Anyone know where to buy trough opto boards? Marco out of stock, pinball life doesn’t have them. Interested in a local game, but has problems with the trough and I don’t want to buy the game if the boards are nla.
I got mine from Great Lakes Modular and they work great! http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/wpc_ufb.html
4 weeks later
Quoted from koji:Never had to adjust this type before. But maybe there is a way on the underside of the receiver?
It’s probably high by 1/4” at least…. I don’t think it would matter since the playfield is prevented going any lower due to the pivot bolts about 1/3 of the way back in the cabinet.
1 month later
ITS HAPPENING!!!!!
After long last, CPR is making the D&D playfield!!!
I just ordered mine - https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/dungeons/
Screen Shot 2022-10-11 at 8.05.56 AM (resized).pngQuoted from dr_nybble:Love to get a review when someone gets their hands on this. Looks good based on the pictures other than registration looking a little off.
I've used a couple other CPR playfields, and in every case they've been better than the roasted original I was replacing, if not perfect (Bally Playboy, DW, Bad Cats). I'd say unless you have a HUO, this probably will be better than what you have since it seems like this game's PF doesn't wear well. (full disclosure - I intsta-ordered this as soon as I saw it posted.)
4 weeks later
Quoted from topkat:I cant get the ball to make it up the ramp on the plung for the skill shot. Its weak, and usually ends up around the standup targets. Right now its a very tight spring (red), which I will try switching, but I am wondering if its likely a misaligned housing? ( more of an off center hit on the ball) I have read there have been a few others with a similar issue, you have a solution please let me know.
I've got the same issue... haven't really figured out the right adjustment.
1 month later
Quoted from jlbintn:On another note (new project upcoming).
Anybody that has pulled and replaced the cabinet/backbox decals, any tips on the easiest way to get the old crap off?
Heat gun and a putty knife… and patience
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