With the funky cab, can these be loaded on an appliance dolly like any other pin? Or no because it won't fit on the small shelf?

To answer my own question: it's not ideal but can be done.

After inspecting it and getting it home I was disappointed to find insert and cabinet decals are hard to come by. Anybody have any leads?

Did anybody ever make the insert decals that include the diamond keylines?

Also, any tips to adjusting the magic saves to reduce flipper bounce? My left one lifts a lot higher than the right and is smoother. The little plastic above the flipper only adjusts so far to compensate for the lower lift height on the right. I don't know if its from coil wear or what but I'm going to go over the mech this evening if I get a chance.

Why is it sometimes after locking a ball doing a full plunge results in multiball / 2x and sometimes it's just a missed skill shot. Is it because the upper gate isnt registering or something?

Tuning up your flippers and aligning the inlanes to eliminate hop will help a lot. Other than that max out all your auto save settings, maybe take out the sling switches a bit to make them less touchy.

Yes!!!

I love this game I'll probably have to get a playfield and put it in the queue with all my other projects I'll never get to.

I'm having a real hard time with this guys. Are you absolutely positive you're not supposed to get your multiball balls released when you have them locked and do a full plunge around the 'summon help' ramp? All my switches are working (I get 3 flashes on the left when going up the ramp) and the multiplier is applied and multiball starts most of the time. I think the times it doesnt start is the times that the "teleport" is set to happen. If there is a ball set to lock or both balls are locked it gives multiball on the plunge after the ball is locked.

Both switches in the lock mechs are supposed to be closed when a ball is locked, correct? What am I missing?

Also is there a way to tell whether a shot will perform a lock or teleport or do you just have to have the software memorized?

Can anybody explain why sometimes a ball is locked and sometimes it is teleported, or how to make a ball lock instead of teleport?

Still having problems with a full plunge starting multiball. Happens sometimes with 1 ball locked but nearly always with two balls locked. I've rebuilt the switches for the two gates in the back (skill 3 top and the next one after it) with completely with new leafs, caps and diodes. The first two skill shots I put new caps in and everything seems to be firing as it should in switch test. The three lights flash on the ramp so they are all getting hit before the ball goes behind the backbox. It's almost like there is another playfield switch being validated between skill 3 and the ramp exit switch or something but I can't get it figured out. Anybody have any ideas?

I dont know if this is regular behavior but when the glass is off and I have the ball off of the playfield the two ball capture coils each pulse for a split second about every 5 seconds or so, like the game is making sure they are up or something. Is this normal? All the switches seem to be working correctly in switch test including the 4 switches related to the ball captures and skill shot.

To be clear the "summon help" light is not lit before the plunge so the playfield isn't starting validated or anything like that.

I think it's set to spit them both out, maybe hold one but at power on it'll spit both out so I don't think it'll be that. I'll try resetting to factory defaults tomorrow just to be sure.

The gate at the top (skill 3) feeds though to the "level" switch which is hard to see as it's basically behind the backboard entirely.

I was testing it as thoroughly as I could the other day and it seemed like with two balls locked it would nearly always do it. I tried taking skill 1,2, and 3 out of the equation one at a time and it always still started multiball so I don't think it's one of those switches double hitting or anything. Something that was interesting is that the right ball lock only would not start multiball when fully plunging. The left would most of the time, and both would almost every time. I don't suspect diodes as I can have both balls locked in switch test and hit all the skill shot switches and nothing else pops up in the switch test. Still thinking about replacing all the diodes starting on the left side as I just don't know what the hell else to do. The trough switches all seem to work as they should but the configuration is funky. 4 balls, only 3 functional optos and if there are 3 balls on the playfield the final ball in the trough is not in front of an opto, I think I remember finding this was normal for this title but correct me if I'm wrong.

The other thing I'm thinking about is replacing the game ROM just in case some jackleg did some kind of mod. It shows the same version listed on IPDB as the latest.

Thank you for your reply! I'll give a factory reset / no lock holdover a try first thing. It's been on the list I've just been hung up on it being a switch issue.

Factory reset did not affect the issue

Is there more than one version of the code? What is everybody on?

I believe the level switch is the left ramp exit. You can verify in switch test

Anybody have a fix for a stucky ball at skill shot 3 (top of left ramp)? It only gets stuck if it's going just right and doesn't make it all the way past the gate. I made the switch as "loose" as possible so it doesn't hold downward pressure on the ball and it seemed to improve the problem but the ball still gets hung up if it sits on the rivet for the flap just right. Tried justifying the plastic molding to the left as much as possible to minimize that effect but there really wasn't much wiggle room at all.

Ok so I noticed the left ball guide on the ramp was justified pretty far off the plastic molding. I took some scrap metal and made a little bracket to basically extend the ball guide. It's no cliffy but it solved the stucky issue 100%. Hard to see it in the photo from above but it takes away the space for the ball to justify to the left and get stuck.

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I'm out and about right now but they should be listed in the manual on ipdb

The game is supposed to have 4 balls installed IIRC, even though no more than 3 ever enter the playfield. The forward most ball also has no opto from what I remember.

Test that switch in the switch test and see if it reports correctly. You probably have a wiring or diode issue.

Did you ever put a 4th ball in? Verify your switches in test?

I think that's just the rom hex code.

So your trough seems like it works now test your ball capture mechs. They have 2 switches each, a down indicator and a ball-is-present indicator.

That's what it sounds like!

Considering putting my DND on location. Anybody do anything to tone down the topper flashers a little bit? Power resistors in line? Different bulbs maybe? Smoke gels in front? I love them at home but I think the location may tire of being blinded.

Yeah it's stock but it's also possibly a little bit "extra" for location play.

Well... there's a lot more to it than that with a switch matrix. Did you test it with the switch connector removed from the MPU, and diode / resistance test shows closed one way and .4-.6 ohm the other way? It appears to have a solid connection? Checking all the other diodes in the column and row this way will probably find you the culprit quickest if checking your symptoms in switch test isnt helping.

Alternately, if the problem is on the board you may be able to bridge the column / row pins for that target and see the multiple switch closures.

Just because the board is new doesn't mean its good! There's a good youtube vid on switch matrix troubleshooting. Now check the columns in both the trough 1 and sword switch and you should get 2 that are on the same column bad IIRC. Itll form a box with the trough 1 and sword targets.

Here is the video

I thought someone was selling an original version of the translite with improved color saturation

I feel like one of those wires must be shorted to the GI circuit right?

I'm not sure which one I'm looking exactly but you can reference the manual at ipdb.org

When you say they all burn like that, do the wrappers just get crispy or is that thing about to short and damage the board (or blow a fuse)?

Try an incandescent flasher in there. It may have warming resistors that would need cut in order to use an LED.

I would LOVE to treat D&D to some new decals but the mdf on mine is chewed up in places and I don't feel like I'd have much luck with repair. Anybody mess with restoring the edges on this stuff?

It's the edges that are chewed up and some corners are missing, so I'm guessing it would take creating new corners with bondo?

The ramp shot is definitely tough even with everything working correctly. Check your EOS and vertical play for sure. The white circle on the linkage gets easily worn on these and may need replaced as well.

WOWWOW! That looks great! Show us the installed photos please. I'm on the hunt for a coin door that isn't dinged up if anybody has a lead.

This is my favorite club, I fn love this game. Mine is now available for play at Center of the Universe Brewery in Ashland, VA for 50c.

Looking great! I wish you did the side rails in black too just so I could see how it would look

Can you tell me what prep work you had to do for the cab? My bottom edge has some moisture expansion.

Pics plz

The front of that cab is begging for that decal.

There is none blacker.

It's like a pastel black.

The blue on your ramp looks really nice. Mine looks like butt in comparison.

Mylar would have been nice. My bonus numbers are all disappearing.

I think the left ramp shot should be makeable when you hit the lane well. This mostly has to do with your flipper mech wear and EOS adjustment.

Nah I'd check the EOS and especially the white circle piece of the crummy linear mechs. You can rebuild it with just a few pieces if you want to go that route.

Shoot on mine it's harder to get all the drops down! I love that shot though, I wish that the left ramp stayed down during multiball to allow this as a strategy.

Yeah I meant right ramp whoops.

I dont have airballs on mine. Check for loose posts or raised inserts.

I tell everybody that comes to play that you have to put about 20 games on it to get used to the magic save system. After that you will probably fall in love.

No spring. I had to work on this section quite a bit. Had to get the gate the right width and angle to swing freely, then make sure the leaf switch only touches at the very top so the wore doesnt get held up by the tension.

It's cuz it is a perfectly good translite on most games. It shouldn't sell nearly as good as something that replaces a 40 year old flaking backglass.

Those decals look incredible! Did you have to do any cab repair? I want to do decals but the bottom of my cab has swelled and I think it'd be an uphill battle trying to sand and have it not just flake everywhere from the bottom.

As for the optos, you can always just rebuild the boards. It could be something as simple as a loose connector or too much light coming in to the apron for some reason. Ministry of pinball and https://www.pindorabox.com both have them in stock.

How did you deal with the edges?

My decals are not amazing. The cab has minor swelling on the bottom edge of the particleboard / whatever. I'm not a bad enough dude to slap new sides onto the cabinet but I also don't know if it's worth just sanding / filling the bottom edge or if it's just chasing bad with good.

It is minor, you can feel that the edge has a little "wave" where it goes out. I just figured sanding that edge the particle board or whatever would just be sanding off in giant chunks.

I have not seen that. It's been messed with as those coin inserts are usually a grey color to the best of my knowledge.

Your inbox might be dead with people trying to buy your topper now. How much height do you need to remove? The pinball gods may frown if you try to mod the existing one instead of building from scratch.

That is true. It's nothing too complicated.

You don't have to have the same form factor connectors as long as everything goes to three same place. For instance if it's a 3x3 block you can just get two 1x9 and a z connector from great plains or someplace. Or really chop things up and do 9 wire nuts

I'm not at my game but the dungeon level exit is indeed a wire gate.

Had a similar problem with mine. You could always fix it by smacking the left side of the head. Turned out one of the pins on the backbox connector had backed out of the housing only like 1/8" but it was enough to cause issues.

Are the pins on the power board not the standard .93 or .62? I went to repin and it seemed like they were between the two sizes.