Chesterfield, VA
Test that switch in the switch test and see if it reports correctly. You probably have a wiring or diode issue.
(Topic ID: 64090)
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Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
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Quoted from Chalkey:Test that switch in the switch test and see if it reports correctly. You probably have a wiring or diode issue.
It might because I have only 3 balls installed in my game....will check when I get home today. Problem only happens during multiball when I only have 1 ball locked.
---- EDIT...I think I might just extend the rubber so the ball doesnt go in that eject anymore. It only happens during 2 ball multiball and sometimes it kicks on the left and sometimes it kicks on the right, and I can't seem to duplicate the problem on a consistent basis. when I drain out of multiball it kicks the ball out. Could be PIA chip
1 week later
Longueuil, QC
Quoted from SMP14:Hey pinballfan I got the trough opto boards a few days ago actually and I just saw your message haha it works wonderfully!
Now, the reason why I've come back to this thread, I'm having an issue though with my game though. When I lock a ball sometimes, and then the ball goes into the back left dragons lair switch, or just the ball goes to the left dragons lair switch in general, the right dragons lair coil will fire over and over but the left one won't fire. Why is this? When i turn the game off and turn it back on the left coil kicker fires to knock the ball back into play. Please help thank you!
where did you buy your opto?
Quoted from pinballfan:some of you put a post like that in your d&d?
[quoted image]
no
Quoted from SMP14:It might because I have only 3 balls installed in my game....will check when I get home today. Problem only happens during multiball when I only have 1 ball locked.
---- EDIT...I think I might just extend the rubber so the ball doesnt go in that eject anymore. It only happens during 2 ball multiball and sometimes it kicks on the left and sometimes it kicks on the right, and I can't seem to duplicate the problem on a consistent basis. when I drain out of multiball it kicks the ball out. Could be PIA chip
could be diode, could be cap. the caps on the switches are a common failure point and if one is starting to go it can do all kinds of screwy things to the switch matrix
Quoted from Tallon:could be diode, could be cap. the caps on the switches are a common failure point and if one is starting to go it can do all kinds of screwy things to the switch matrix
I will replace the cap on the switch when my order from Marco comes in next week. This game has always been an issue but its a keeper. Game was hallowed out when I got it. No boards, not even the transformer was in it, only thing that was there was the cab, the stripped playfield, and the fuse block on the left.
Sometimes I think this hobby is a money pit, but then I realize after my 10th game that its an INVESTMENT
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinballfan:i found opto for my d&d!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
awesome! they got my D&D working as well!
Quoted from SMP14:awesome! they got my D&D working as well!
sadly it d ont fix my problem...
Quoted from pinballfan:sadly it d ont fix my problem...
i must have missed it....what exactly is going on?
Quoted from Tallon:i must have missed it....what exactly is going on?
yes i have 4 balls in my machine,and i check my self testing switch,when i remove the balls,i read all switch open and when my balls is in the machine i read,outhole1.2.3 closed.its normal? thank you.
by the way,i have (game rom id) in my list of self testing,what is that??it give me this information=h06b 12601 12602 000u2 000u3 130c t87.something is wrong about game rom?
i see something wrong,when the first red target (up to the playfield)is actived,gameplay go wrong,warrior escape appear,dragon lair line stop to work and opposide dragon lair ckicker is actived for nothing,my problem is there maybe a bad diode on switch?
Considering putting my DND on location. Anybody do anything to tone down the topper flashers a little bit? Power resistors in line? Different bulbs maybe? Smoke gels in front? I love them at home but I think the location may tire of being blinded.
Quoted from Chalkey:Considering putting my DND on location. Anybody do anything to tone down the topper flashers a little bit? Power resistors in line? Different bulbs maybe? Smoke gels in front? I love them at home but I think the location may tire of being blinded.
If you have stock bulbs in it, let it roll. Half of the fun of the game is the light show. Helps attract attention to the game when they go off
Quoted from Chalkey:That's what it sounds like!
i check the diode on fautly target(sword right) and my multimeter show it good.its better to change it?
Well... there's a lot more to it than that with a switch matrix. Did you test it with the switch connector removed from the MPU, and diode / resistance test shows closed one way and .4-.6 ohm the other way? It appears to have a solid connection? Checking all the other diodes in the column and row this way will probably find you the culprit quickest if checking your symptoms in switch test isnt helping.
Alternately, if the problem is on the board you may be able to bridge the column / row pins for that target and see the multiple switch closures.
Quoted from Chalkey:Well... there's a lot more to it than that with a switch matrix. Did you test it with the switch connector removed from the MPU, and diode / resistance test shows closed one way and .4-.6 ohm the other way? It appears to have a solid connection? Checking all the other diodes in the column and row this way will probably find you the culprit quickest if checking your symptoms in switch test isnt helping.
Alternately, if the problem is on the board you may be able to bridge the column / row pins for that target and see the multiple switch closures.
0f40709299254d135127fd3b386653cc8a90c0a9 (resized).jpgd6f3473511ac452264e121aa2b740b28e0dda1fe (1) (resized).jpgJust because the board is new doesn't mean its good! There's a good youtube vid on switch matrix troubleshooting. Now check the columns in both the trough 1 and sword switch and you should get 2 that are on the same column bad IIRC. Itll form a box with the trough 1 and sword targets.
Quoted from Chalkey:Just because the board is new doesn't mean its good! There's a good youtube vid on switch matrix troubleshooting. Now check the columns in both the trough 1 and sword switch and you should get 2 that are on the same column bad IIRC. Itll form a box with the trough 1 and sword targets.
thanks, when i disconnect my opto,everything is fine.my brand new opto act like a switch without diode.im thinking to put a diode on wire before is connector.
now i put a diode on the cable of my trought 1 (come from opto) and everyting work fine,i must play couple of game before thinking of victory!it miss diode someplace or new opto d ont included on the board.if it not perfect i put diode on trought 2 and trought 3.i see the video about matrix,not easy to understand...thanks chalkey.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Tallon:And yet you can't get a replacement original.
sure you can, it's available right now on eBay......
Screenshot 2021-11-10 at 07-56-34 384488039462 eBay (resized).pngQuoted from Cherries_Jubilee:sure you can, it's available right now on eBay......[quoted image]
Quoted from pinballfan:wow,i pay 80$ my n.o.s. translite on ebay couple of years in the past...
That is a cray amount of money!
Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:sure you can, it's available right now on eBay......[quoted image]
Christ, that’s what I paid for my last D&D game. Like the whole game.
Hey Guys;
Someone from this group reached out and asked if we were making a D&D PF in the future. I thought I'd post here so more people were aware of the direction.
I have a PF set here that I’ll be doing the CAD for over the next month or so. Stu has the artwork complete and we have the inserts and wood in stock so it should get made and hopefully for sale in the early spring, maybe even earlier if I can get some spare time to finish the CAD earlier. It’ll of course be a PF set, the mini’s are just cut out of the one piece of wood which will help to keep the price down. Check out some of Stu’s custom D&D backglasses on our website. He really likes the theme and the game so he went above and beyond.
Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com
Anyone done the star post led mod on this? Wondering about color choice to light the playfield a bit, while I wait for my pin to arrive 
cool white/warm white/blue? Leaning towards cool white. Any pics appreciated
Quoted from Morgoth00:Anyone done the star post led mod on this? Wondering about color choice to light the playfield a bit, while I wait for my pin to arrive
cool white/warm white/blue? Leaning towards cool white. Any pics appreciated
If you not buying new posts, blue works good as it adds the blue back in to the discolored ones. If your replacing posts, cool white under them as they need the extra light the really add anything to the playfield.
Quoted from CPR:Hey Guys;
Someone from this group reached out and asked if we were making a D&D PF in the future. I thought I'd post here so more people were aware of the direction.
I have a PF set here that I’ll be doing the CAD for over the next month or so. Stu has the artwork complete and we have the inserts and wood in stock so it should get made and hopefully for sale in the early spring, maybe even earlier if I can get some spare time to finish the CAD earlier. It’ll of course be a PF set, the mini’s are just cut out of the one piece of wood which will help to keep the price down. Check out some of Stu’s custom D&D backglasses on our website. He really likes the theme and the game so he went above and beyond.
Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com
This is fabulous news! 100% buy when I see it!
Quoted from Tallon:If your not buying new posts, blue works good as it adds the blue back in to the discolored ones. If your replacing posts, cool white under them as they need the extra light, they really add something to the playfield.
2 weeks later
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