That's good news. It's always nice when it's a simple fix. But, and you have probably figured this out already, once you start playing it, don't be surprised if you find little bugs and quirky behavior, especially since this game has not been played very much for a long time. I would still seriously consider re-working the connectors, and maybe start with those displays. Lowering the voltage is a good thing. Those connectors at the displays can cause some strange issues on the displays.

It's not hard to do them, once you get a feel for doing it.

Did you pull that Driver board from the backbox and check the connectors and traces on the back of it?

Nope. Not yet. I've also noticed that the display-issues are gone (for now) but i am also cleaning everything out: playfield, lamps, rubbers, pylons etc. Everything is either going to be replaced (the rubbers and partly the standoff's) or cleaned (playfield and the playfield-elements). I've also found some strange replacements: a GE912 instead of a 555 bulb.

I do have something strange: there is no sound when the machine is on but idle. I've set the attract-mode to '1' so it should make some noise afaik but no such thing. When a game is 'on' there is the normal sound and -effects. Any idea what could be the case? I even did a factory reset but no 'attract sounds'..

It doesn't work that way. Push the flipper buttons, and you will get your attract sound, followed by some animations that illustrate game play. Our Lord of the Rings pin is the same way. Our Fireball II says, on it's own accord: Fireball Awaits You!

I only have three pins, but it seems as though most games require some action on the part of a player before attract sounds actually play, if they are set.

In a few weeks i am going to visit another owner of the same machine and see if there are differences between his and mine. For now it looks (and feels) ok.

Another thing popped up when i was cleaning the cabinet: are all lightbulbs 555's? I noticed that on several places there were some GE912's installed but they seemed out-of-place (behind a bumper for example) so i replaced them. Is that ok?

No. The 912’s are suppose to be there. The manuals are online. Please double check the manual as there are 912 flasher bulbs behind all the target banks the slings a couple of the bumpers and in both upper playfields. They are also in half the sockets in the backboard

What Tallon said.

Still having problems with a full plunge starting multiball. Happens sometimes with 1 ball locked but nearly always with two balls locked. I've rebuilt the switches for the two gates in the back (skill 3 top and the next one after it) with completely with new leafs, caps and diodes. The first two skill shots I put new caps in and everything seems to be firing as it should in switch test. The three lights flash on the ramp so they are all getting hit before the ball goes behind the backbox. It's almost like there is another playfield switch being validated between skill 3 and the ramp exit switch or something but I can't get it figured out. Anybody have any ideas?

I dont know if this is regular behavior but when the glass is off and I have the ball off of the playfield the two ball capture coils each pulse for a split second about every 5 seconds or so, like the game is making sure they are up or something. Is this normal? All the switches seem to be working correctly in switch test including the 4 switches related to the ball captures and skill shot.

To be clear the "summon help" light is not lit before the plunge so the playfield isn't starting validated or anything like that.

Just a question, that I hope doesn't seem off topic. What are the game settings for the ball traps? Do you have it set to eject both balls upon game completion?

I have had the wire get stuck closed on Skill shot three, tweaking it fixes it for the most part and it hasn't happened in some time. The only instance I have experienced on my game, with the ball traps doing what you are describing, occurred with the game set to not eject both balls at completion of the game.

I don't think there is another switch after that gate switch at the top of Skill 3, or I am misunderstanding what you are describing.

I think it's set to spit them both out, maybe hold one but at power on it'll spit both out so I don't think it'll be that. I'll try resetting to factory defaults tomorrow just to be sure.

The gate at the top (skill 3) feeds though to the "level" switch which is hard to see as it's basically behind the backboard entirely.

I was testing it as thoroughly as I could the other day and it seemed like with two balls locked it would nearly always do it. I tried taking skill 1,2, and 3 out of the equation one at a time and it always still started multiball so I don't think it's one of those switches double hitting or anything. Something that was interesting is that the right ball lock only would not start multiball when fully plunging. The left would most of the time, and both would almost every time. I don't suspect diodes as I can have both balls locked in switch test and hit all the skill shot switches and nothing else pops up in the switch test. Still thinking about replacing all the diodes starting on the left side as I just don't know what the hell else to do. The trough switches all seem to work as they should but the configuration is funky. 4 balls, only 3 functional optos and if there are 3 balls on the playfield the final ball in the trough is not in front of an opto, I think I remember finding this was normal for this title but correct me if I'm wrong.

The other thing I'm thinking about is replacing the game ROM just in case some jackleg did some kind of mod. It shows the same version listed on IPDB as the latest.

Thank you for your reply! I'll give a factory reset / no lock holdover a try first thing. It's been on the list I've just been hung up on it being a switch issue.

Factory reset did not affect the issue

Is there more than one version of the code? What is everybody on?

Been busy, just got a Fireball 1972 edition, plus other things going on. I don't think there is but one version of the code. When I was working my XPIN issue, I burned new roms, using that code. The game didn't play differently. I wish I could see what it's doing. Maybe it's just a quirky switch or something.

When i received my dnd it had german roms, it was missing a lot of options, including factory reset

Well, my right side scoring display, after functioning flawlessly for the past few months, started misbehaving again. It worked, but digits were faded in some spots. It came and it went the last few days. I think that board needs to be rebuilt, and that's no small task.

With all of the problems I had with the XPIN's not working on this game, I decided to order a set of Pinscore displays. They came this morning, plugged them in and they work flawlessly.

Not sure why the XPIN's had an issue communicating with the game, or vice-versa, but I never could get them to work on this machine. So, if any of you folks need new displays for your D&D, this is more information to consider before making a purchase. This is no knock against XPIN boards, because it has been reported that they work in 6803 machines, but I had no luck whatsoever getting them to work in my particular D&D. Maybe it's the font, but honestly I have to confess that is just throwing something up against the wall at this point in time.

Brett is a great guy, stands by his products and I would not hesitate to buy any of his other products, should the need arise. His prices are better than other competitors, and the quality is outstanding. This was one of those weird issues that crop up from time to time.

Just saw these come up on Ebay. I have to wonder about the "licensed" in this case, since they don't seem to match the originals.

Anyone know anything about these guys?

ebay.com link: itm

Does anyone know what type of coil is proper size for the Upper Right Flipper?

Also, can someone tell me where the “level” switch is located?

I believe the level switch is the left ramp exit. You can verify in switch test

Yep. Found it. Behind the back panel.

Thanks.

A-24-570/34-3600

You can find the tech chart here - http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

click on the Bally tab on the left, then scroll down to Dungeons & Dragons.

Thanks! Excellent resource!

Was wondering if anyone knew where I can find the translite trim prices ?
Awesome game finally got mine working 100% now just trying to locate stuff like the trims for the backglass
Thanks

Also I have all the sound but it’s VERY crackly
Going to start changing chips and caps on it if anyone has any suggestions it would be much appreciated

There is a service bulletin for the sound deluxe board. https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803

Take a look and see if it has been done. I have found that the roms can get a little flakey over time and reburning new once can clean up the sound too. As for the trim, Marco sells a trim kit. The system 11 is the one your looking for. Otherwise, translite trim from pinball life works too, you just have to buy the individual pieces.

Man thank you!

All good, I have had a couple or 8 go thru the collection.

does anyone have a file for a set of custom score cards? I have a clients machine in here getting shopped and a custom set of scorecards would really look nice on his machine!!

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/cardd.htm

i change 16 capacitors on targets and others,it fix random problem. its a must on 6803 machine.

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Anybody have a fix for a stucky ball at skill shot 3 (top of left ramp)? It only gets stuck if it's going just right and doesn't make it all the way past the gate. I made the switch as "loose" as possible so it doesn't hold downward pressure on the ball and it seemed to improve the problem but the ball still gets hung up if it sits on the rivet for the flap just right. Tried justifying the plastic molding to the left as much as possible to minimize that effect but there really wasn't much wiggle room at all.

the pressure from the leaf switch is what I'm guessing was suppose to force the gate back down to make sure the ball doesn't get stuck. there is also a little wiggle from the back board to the playfield and I have not figured out how to properly deal with that.

Ok so I noticed the left ball guide on the ramp was justified pretty far off the plastic molding. I took some scrap metal and made a little bracket to basically extend the ball guide. It's no cliffy but it solved the stucky issue 100%. Hard to see it in the photo from above but it takes away the space for the ball to justify to the left and get stuck.

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Guys could someone please let me know what coil each of the left and right teleports are - and what are the alternatives to that coil? Cheers

I'm out and about right now but they should be listed in the manual on ipdb

I added few toys.

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Yeah I had a look through the manual on Ipdbbut couldn’t find any info on the teleport coils nor what would be a suitable substitute - if anybody could pass through the info, that’ll be great.

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Manuals%20and%20Schematics/

You have to use the parts manual for that stuff. Looks to be a27-1500 but you can cross reference the bally part number to make sure

Don't know the answer to any other questions, but replacing the through onto boards with the Great Lakes Electronics ones definitely fixed a few errors for me!

The game is supposed to have 4 balls installed IIRC, even though no more than 3 ever enter the playfield. The forward most ball also has no opto from what I remember.

Can anyone take pics of their topper wiring? I am fixing up a game but the topper is, odd.

The sides are just rectangular, no art. The holes in the head for the topper bolts are not the same as on the topper. The topper has a single plug the fits a plug in the head, but only the flashers work correctly.

Can someone in here measure the actual glass size for the translite? My glass is missing and it looks like it may be slightly larger than the trans light itself if I measure the back box opening.

Also, can someone post a close up pic of the top backglass channel. My backbox is missing some wood parts that hold the backglass in. I have a good idea what it should look like but I’d like to make it match the original as much as possible. A pic of what it should look like would be really helpful. Thanks!!!

Do you mean inside the topper, or where it connects in the head?

I'll try this week!

I ended up listing the game as a project. It is a cool game, but I have more than I want. Someone bought the topper separately.

Try swapping the Pias 6821, see if the issue moves.
For the sound you could try rotating the potmeter on the soundboard

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/trough-opto-receiver-board-bally-6803.html

I'm nearly finish with my DnD
I tried adding ice blue color LEDS for die GI lights.
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