(Topic ID: 64090)

Official Dungeons and Dragons D&D Club - All Welcome

By DarkWizard

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Mathazar
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There are 807 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 17.
#251 4 years ago

Can anybody help me figure out the P/N or potential replacement for the locking bar on my D&D? The Bally docs I have don't seem to call it out separate from the cabinet unfortunately. This one is pretty worn out so I'd love to find a new one for it. Thanks, -Steve

#252 4 years ago
Quoted from textaddict:

Can anybody help me figure out the P/N or potential replacement for the locking bar on my D&D? The Bally docs I have don't seem to call it out separate from the cabinet unfortunately. This one is pretty worn out so I'd love to find a new one for it. Thanks, -Steve

A Standard Bally should work... https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-standard-size-stainless-steel-lockdown-bar-with-epoxied-under-carriage-circa-1974-1988.html

1 month later
#253 4 years ago

Does anybody know where to look in (or on) this game, for the manufacturer's serial number? I've got a tag inside, but I don't know if that's a serial number tag or some other number.

On my Fireball II, it is stamped on the side of the cabinet, and on the backbox. On D&D, no easily discernible sign of a number anywhere.

#254 4 years ago

Nevermind, found it. And now I know why it took so long to find it

#255 4 years ago

New member here looking for some help and advice. My d and d machine needs a good going over. I was thinking about updating the bulbs to leds. There must be close to 50 bulbs in there and I see many different types available on eBay. Any recommendations on what type I need and what a fair price is?

Also have a bottom right flipper that sticks. Flipping the left flipper repeatedly makes the right go down. Is this a symptom of a broken part or a lubrication type issue?

Thanks
Dave

#256 4 years ago
Quoted from VampireKangaroo:

So I'm opening up the playfield on my Dungeons and Dragons. I've ordered a set of pop bumper caps but they do not fit. Can anyone let me know the exact ones I need? Or a link maybe? Thanks in advance.

mine was broken never found a replacement. but do you have acces to a 3d printer? we modeld a new cap from the old broken one. fits perfectly.
il add the link an pics after uploading it.

Quoted from brakeshoe:

New member here looking for some help and advice. My d and d machine needs a good going over. I was thinking about updating the bulbs to leds. There must be close to 50 bulbs in there and I see many different types available on eBay. Any recommendations on what type I need and what a fair price is?
Also have a bottom right flipper that sticks. Flipping the left flipper repeatedly makes the right go down. Is this a symptom of a broken part or a lubrication type issue?
Thanks
Dave

the dnd pinball only uses wedge bulbs like 555#. you can easally replace them with leds. there are 74 bulbs if i remember correctly.

#257 4 years ago

Finally found a nice copy that has not bee trashed and thrashed and is complete

IMG_20190626_164459 (resized).jpgIMG_20190626_164459 (resized).jpg
#258 4 years ago

Hello everyone, new to the club. Hoping to clean up my D&D in time for my daughter's birthday in Sept.

The playfield needs some work. If I find a decent replacement I'll jump on it.

In the meantime I'm just starting to clear the playfield and I've never done this before. Taking tons of pics. Wish me luck I'm sure I'll need it!

-CT

#259 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

Finally found a nice copy that has not bee trashed and thrashed and is complete[quoted image]

Beautiful example! I hope I can get mine to that level somehow.

#260 4 years ago

Just a heads up, there are now replacement cabinet decals for those that need them.

Ministry of pinball has them for now

#261 4 years ago

Hello everyone.
Ordering a set of replacement rubber. Do most folks go with the white set? The ones I am replacing are yellow.

Interested to learn what color/mix might work best.
Thanks
CT

#262 4 years ago

Actually my current ones are orange, not yellow. My bad.

#263 4 years ago
Quoted from CullenT:

Hello everyone.
Ordering a set of replacement rubber. Do most folks go with the white set? The ones I am replacing are yellow.
Interested to learn what color/mix might work best.
Thanks
CT

I did mine in blue to coordinate with the plastics

#264 4 years ago

I ordered orange superbands for mine I feel that there is enough blue in the plastics .... will be doing so other mods as well

#265 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

I ordered orange superbands for mine I feel that there is enough blue in the plastics .... will be doing so other mods as well

Awesome! What other mods re you doing? Post pics when you get them done!

#266 4 years ago

Curious to see how you guys have “modified” a hydraulic table to move this thing? The odd shape of the bottom makes it a bitch to move.

#267 4 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Awesome! What other mods re you doing? Post pics when you get them done!

Always felt that the topper, image of the dragon, was a little lack luster .... could definitely be improved ... that mod is happening as we speak ...

I have stripped the playfield and removed the mylar and have finished the first round of clear ... waiting a few days and then will sand, touch up, add insert decals that I am making and clear again.

Will add pin-blades, and LED flipper and start buttons (my own design) and most likely put some figurines tastefully around the playfield.

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#268 4 years ago

I need a couple pictures of that upper flipper from some owners ... mine is hacked and I have only seen one other that had a good angle ... looked like a star post and a 1 inch rubber to the gate post but I am not sure that was right ... I have a new plastic set and I am sure that plastic is the only thing that goes there just not broken in the picture ... Show me what you got

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#269 4 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

So here is my Saturday afternoon project. My front cabinet has been chipped since I got it, and I never was a fan to begin with of the flat black look (especially next to my Doctor Who) so now it has some front cabinet graphics of its own!

[quoted image][quoted image]

If you don't mind sharing this file for the front bricks I would put the Banner at the bottom and make a dragon under the start button and share it back to you! I want to keep it somewhat original but dang I just can't get over the all black front. I like yours better for sure. Nice work

#270 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

I need a couple pictures of that upper flipper from some owners ... mine is hacked and I have only seen one other that had a good angle ... looked like a star post and a 1 inch rubber to the gate post but I am not sure that was right ... I have a new plastic set and I am sure that plastic is the only thing that goes there just not broken in the picture ... Show me what you got[quoted image]

Mine's packed up right now from moving... hopefully someone can jump in here!

#271 4 years ago

https://www.artstation.com/artwork/OyPnav

ummm looking for some art work and I came across this .... anyone know anything about this?

Scroll down and see all the images

#272 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

https://www.artstation.com/artwork/OyPnav
ummm looking for some art work and I came across this .... anyone know anything about this?
Scroll down and see all the images

Cool! but looks like someone's computer graphics project. In the earlier pictures, you can tell it's a model as the shading's off.

#273 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

https://www.artstation.com/artwork/OyPnav
ummm looking for some art work and I came across this .... anyone know anything about this?
Scroll down and see all the images

Looks like someone rethemed an iron maiden, very cool!

#274 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

I need a couple pictures of that upper flipper from some owners ... mine is hacked and I have only seen one other that had a good angle ... looked like a star post and a 1 inch rubber to the gate post but I am not sure that was right ... I have a new plastic set and I am sure that plastic is the only thing that goes there just not broken in the picture ... Show me what you got[quoted image]

My playfield is stripped but I took this shot to help me remember what goes where. Hope this helps.
-CT

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#275 4 years ago

And this with the plastic removed.

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#276 4 years ago

Removed the mylar that was bubbling all over. Started with Goo Gone but that was very inefficient. It also pulled up a lot of the insert paint even going as slow and cautiously as possible. Using the freezing method was an absolute breeze. Night and day difference! Left the ink on the inserts intact but they will be sacrificed as I try to get all this glue up I'm sure. Playfield paint itself unscathed.

Will be looking for decals or some other solution for the inserts.
-CT

Goo gone never seems to work for me very well.

#277 4 years ago
Quoted from CullenT:

Removed the mylar that was bubbling all over. Started with Goo Gone but that was very inefficient. It also pulled up a lot of the insert paint even going as slow and cautiously as possible. Using the freezing method was an absolute breeze. Night and day difference! Left the ink on the inserts intact but they will be sacrificed as I try to get all this glue up I'm sure. Playfield paint itself unscathed.
Will be looking for decals or some other solution for the inserts.
-CT
Goo gone never seems to work for me very well.

https://www.facebook.com/Les73gtx/videos/873721939665935/

This is a video I made ... I have many years of experience removing graphics.

Thanks you for the pictures, that helps but also shows me there are more than a few solutions people have created ... I am not sure yours is original but I think that is the right idea with just a plastic guide.

I have a new complete set of plastics and I will look to see if there is something that fits in that location.

I am getting ready to clearcoat my playfield and do touch-ups ... my water-slide decal paper just came today so I will make my inserts and print them soon ... I will gladly share the file when done.... .I never got a reply from the guy that is supposed to have them ....meh

#278 4 years ago

On Page 3 of the parts manual number 18 shows the part number for the legs ... what I understood from reading posts and watching videos is that the legs were different in the rear than the front ... much longer .... .... but looking at the part manual it show only one part number for all 4 legs .... so why couldn't you just go with a standard painted Bally leg and have a 3 inch shorter machine ...??

Leg size (resized).PNGLeg size (resized).PNG
#279 4 years ago

Mine are 31 in the rear and 28.5 in the front .... the rear feet are all the way out as tall as they would go and the front feet are screwed in as short as they would go .... my playfield angle was only 5.8 degrees if I remember correctly ... and I must say that play felt a bit slower than say my ToM or BoP

Anyone know the angle that is suggested for that game ... i can't seem to find it in the manual

#280 4 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Mine's packed up right now from moving... hopefully someone can jump in here!

Didn’t I sell you yours? Ok since no one seems to be jumping in and helping out and since I’m working on another one (that’s 7 I believe) I’ll answer all I can.

Let’s start with the legs. The back legs are suppose to be 34.5” long. That’s why you game is slow and floaty. You can either have a set welded up or try and see if someone has a set. I looked for about 3 months before I gave up and just had a set made.

The post by the upper flipper has been the skinny clear post on all 7 of the games I have done. My guess is someone changed it to a star post to stop the ball from getting stuck at the top of the flipper

To be continued.......

#281 4 years ago

So....I found all the pieces to the plastic that behind the flipper and glued them all together so I could make a new one. The replacement was made out of a thicker PETG plastic and yet...

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#282 4 years ago

It’s just suppose to have a little hook at the top to keep the ball from resting under the tip of the flipper and getting stuck. Every single game I have worked on has had this plastic broken. I guess metal is my next step I just don’t feel like it. Just gonna make a couple spares and let it roll.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you need anything else

#283 4 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Didn’t I sell you yours? Ok since no one seems to be jumping in and helping out and since I’m working on another one (that’s 7 I believe) I’ll answer all I can.
Let’s start with the legs. The back legs are suppose to be 34.5” long. That’s why you game is slow and floaty. You can either have a set welded up or try and see if someone has a set. I looked for about 3 months before I gave up and just had a set made.
The post by the upper flipper has been the skinny clear post on all 7 of the games I have done. My guess is someone changed it to a star post to stop the ball from getting stuck at the top of the flipper
To be continued.......

Yes Talon thank you, I can see the back legs are listed at 34.5" from Marco and the part number matches what is in the Official Bally Parts Manual ... so I guess I should rephrase my question a little .... Why does the manual show "(4 REQ'D.)" and only one part number? ..see previous photo.. All legs are the same according to Bally.
If they are not all the same and we know what the rear are then what are the front supposed to be ?? Sorry I do not want to sound like a butthead and I do appreciate your and everyone's help (that is why I am here; for the things I have not figured out or read for myself) I just like to have proof and then I do not have to wonder if some operator changed the front legs to make the game faster so he could make more money on route.

Those picture of the plastic was also what I came up with in my plastics set .... so after seeing your results I will most likely make mine from metal or maybe do something else there.

thanks for the reply.

#284 4 years ago

Insert decals done ... my wife helped on this one fellas ... I have them ready to apply just waiting for my first coats of clear to dry out nice on the playfield ... give it a smoothing and then to insert decals and final touch-up couple days after will be final clear.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jfznfhswzlu2xol/DandD%20Decals.docx?dl=0

IMG_20190723_115117 (resized).jpgIMG_20190723_115117 (resized).jpgIMG_20190723_115148 (resized).jpgIMG_20190723_115148 (resized).jpg
#285 4 years ago

Looking good very excited to see the finished product! Keep us posted

#286 4 years ago

Hello to all! Last weekend I bought a D&D pinball machine which has been in a cellar for more than 16 years. No topper unfortunately but it still works

I do have one question: how do I remove the backbox so I can transport this machine? Anybody has some guide/step-by-step instructions how to get this machine ready for transportation? Any other tips what to take into account before moving?

#287 4 years ago
Quoted from JiePieWie:

Hello to all! Last weekend I bought a D&D pinball machine which has been in a cellar for more than 16 years. No topper unfortunately but it still works
I do have one question: how do I remove the backbox so I can transport this machine? Anybody has some guide/step-by-step instructions how to get this machine ready for transportation? Any other tips what to take into account before moving?

There's 2 bolts in the head to remove. Pull the translite, and they should be at the bottom. I'm not sure the size. Then you can fold the head down.

Generally before moving a machine - PULL THE BALLS OUT!!! Before I fold down a head, I use a moving blanket or a shag rug on the glass, then fold the head down onto that. Keeps everything from wearing. Once you get the machine lifted up (however works for you, but be sure if you support it from the bottom it's supported all the way across from the sides so you don't blow out the bottom) then you can unbolt the legs. Put the KEYS, LEG BOLTS and BACKBOX Bolts into a bag, and attach to the inside of the coin door. I wrap the legs separately from the machine.

Hope that helps!

#288 4 years ago

If you actually need to remove the head, you can remove the 2 bolts on the right side of the bracket just under the head. The outer side of the plate will come off then the head can be tipped slightly forward and slid to the right to get it off the pins and free the head. You will need to disconnect the wires from inside the backbox before you try this. I would suggest just folding it down for transport

#289 4 years ago

Was able to work on this a little today and thanks to Clnilsen and a little Photoshop work I added some images to his brick pattern ... after installing it and setting the coin door Trim in place (Still need to paint that and the door) it looks like my cabinet has a bit more color to it than what he was working with ... all good I am very happy with it not being black ... for now I am going to touch up my cabinet and enjoy it for a while ... maybe next spring when I am not so busy I will order a set of graphics and freshen up the outside.

If someone wants this pattern please PM Clnilsen as it is his original work on the bricks. I am fine with sharing my part of the project.

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#290 4 years ago

Les73gtx looks great! I love the graphics on the front, and the blades as well. Looking forward to seeing it complete!

1 week later
#291 4 years ago
Quoted from Nds777:

Does anyone have a set of insert decals for sale?
Also, what kind of bulbs are the “bright lights”?

I could use a set of those as well.

Also, is anybody using an aftermarket set of scoring displays in their machine? I am having an issue getting after-market's to work, a logic issue from the control board, not an issue with newer displays.

#292 4 years ago

I am working on my 3rd version of the insert decals ... I will have them done in a few days .... Where the insert lettering on the left was white it will now be yellow slightly orange ... mostly because my printer will not print white (most printers don't) and black does not show up at all when not lit. I played with the size and format a little more (my wife is wonderful but she does not have the passion that I do to get it just right) so that first link for the file will still be the correct one but I will update that file when I am finished.
Other than that family things going on Camping, Weddings, Reunions, and such no progress to show for now ...

#293 4 years ago
Quoted from Les73gtx:

I am working on my 3rd version of the insert decals ... I will have them done in a few days .... Where the insert lettering on the left was white it will now be yellow slightly orange ... mostly because my printer will not print white (most printers don't) and black does not show up at all when not lit. I played with the size and format a little more (my wife is wonderful but she does not have the passion that I do to get it just right) so that first link for the file will still be the correct one but I will update that file when I am finished.
Other than that family things going on Camping, Weddings, Reunions, and such no progress to show for now ...

If I missed this earlier, my apologies. Are you making water slide decals?

#294 4 years ago

looking at some of the creative use of dragon figures, makes me wish there was a practical way to incorporate my Smaug incense burner somewhere on the machine.

It is way to big, though.

#295 4 years ago

The game uses 555 and 89 bulbs

I asked earlier but want to ask again, with a little more specificity.

Is everyone still using the original plasma high voltage displays in their D&D's? If not, which brand of display did you choose? Did you run into any issues?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for being repetitive so close to the last time I asked. I promise not to do it again

2 weeks later
#296 4 years ago

Perhaps a stupid question but do i want to replace the balls from my DND. They are rusty all-over and leave brown smudges on the rubbers. Do i need normal 1-1/16" balls or low-magnetic balls?

#297 4 years ago

Regular balls are fine. There are no magnets in the game. The “magna save” is actually a piece of spring steel with a coil pushing it out when you press the button

#298 4 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Regular balls are fine. There are no magnets in the game. The “magna save” is actually a piece of spring steel with a coil pushing it out when you press the button

OK. Bought 6 new balls and inserted 4 balls according to the manual.When I want to play a game I get a
'missing 1 ball' error. Just for testing I inserted a fifth Ball and I still got the same error. Am I missing something? Should there be a ball somewhere else?

#299 4 years ago
Quoted from JiePieWie:

OK. Bought 6 new balls and inserted 4 balls according to the manual.When I want to play a game I get a
'missing 1 ball' error. Just for testing I inserted a fifth Ball and I still got the same error. Am I missing something? Should there be a ball somewhere else?

check your trough switches

#300 4 years ago

No switches, optos and they are crap. Double check the connectors to the boards and if that’s not it, I would check for light leaking under the apron. I have had it a couple times where changing to LED’s caused the opto to stop reading. Blocking the light by putting paper in front of the board can fix it.

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