I bent mine back... also played with bending the arm of the gate sideways to adjust where it triggers the leaf. I set it so it barely triggered to keep things from hanging up.

Thank you, I assume you bent the arm to the right towards the wire ball trail?

yep - exactly!

Unfortunately the brains at Bally that designed this game made parts specifically just for it. My skill shot gate is broken so I ordered a gate from Bally's "Game Show" machine and hopefully it will work the way it is or with slight adjustments..

The way I started was to unscrew the leaf switch, that gives you more flexibility to move each individual leaf around if needed. Then I lined them all up and screwed back in. My experience was to bend them back as far as I could so that when gate is at farthest travel it wouldn't bind. Then afjusted the switch connnections so a small touch triggered it. As I say, just a lot of experimentation.

Same problem with me, I use a wooden stick on the left side in addition to the metal holder. This makes it much more stable.

Alright thank you for the information. I am going to attempt the fix this weekend. I hope it goes smoothly and nothing breaks on the playfield, especially when lowering it down to lean it against the backbox as the playfield is ungodly heavy and awkward..

Well I tried and tried, but I give up.. no luck, and not worth the struggle for a 100,000 skill shot. If it was for an extra ball or something that would be different.

To anyone with a Dungeons and Dragons pinball machine.. on the 4 pop bumpers only the lowest one on my machine has a top on it, this is the one not under the plastic.

The ones that are under the plastic are basically open with no tops is that correct?

Correct, that is the way mine is.

That’s the way they came... I ended up putting lighted pop covers on mine to add some light to that area....

i got mine this week but my power supply has issues :S never played one before but the videos look like its fun

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I'm having a heck of a time with my left side outline, where my ball hangs about 50% of the passes through that lane. I've already adjusted the star rollover to have barely ANY tension to it (along with a new star rollover as well), and I still get the ball stuck in the same place. I've also ensured there's no wax, etc in the star post area to eliminate any drag on the star rollover. It only happens when the ball is at a slower speed.

I'm wondering if I have the wrong post on the back side of the sling that could be causing a "flat spot" on the rubber from the top sling star post to the next post counterclockwise? I have a star post at the top of the sling, then going counterclockwise from the top I have a narrow post.

This really gets frustrating, because it seems about a 1/3 of my games end this way and I can't rock it out without tilting.

Thoughts?

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Had a look at mine. I have white rubber, it seems to jut out a bit past the plastic in that area if you look top-down at it. I have never had a ball get stuck there on mine. I'll have a closer look tonight at the post I have there.

Can you also make a photo of your dust shield and flame target assemblys. I dont have mine
Thanks

Hope this is useful:

Thanks!

I'm now wondering is the rubber is just a bit too big, so it doesn't get the proper slope to the outline. Hmm...

Just gotta say I want to cry over dumb ebayers right now.

I won last week what was probably the last NOS D&D translite in existence. it was not cheap.

I explicitly reached out out to the seller to ask him to be extra careful in shipping it.

What do I get - it's FOLDED in a BOX.

The seller is taking it back with a refund (I'm shipping it back to him tomorrow), but it just really stinks since I can't imagine there's more out there

Just thought I would show the difference between extra lighting and normal. Followed the poor man's stadium lighting thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting

And tried my hand at it. Crazy the difference it made. Only using 20-25% light, otherwise it washes out the artwork. Very happy with it.

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I am having an issue with my D&D machine, The top right flipper is weak and has a lot of movement, basically you can move the top flipper all around even when holding in the flipper button. The bottom flippers are fine. What would cause the issue with the top right flipper? could it be a board issue or is it most likely something mechanical?

Just wondering if I should spend the money on a rebuild kit. I looked under the playfield and the coil is not burned or even a little brown. I suppose it could be some other part of the flipper mech?

Help Please

I had similar problems. I'd recommend springing for the flipper rebuild kit. I did all 3 of mine, and really helped the game a lot.

While I was in there, I actually replaced my upper flipper with the same style blue flipper to color-coordinate with the wall plastics as well.

Thanks I will order a flipper rebuild kit and a new EOS switch. As the rebuild kit doesn't include the one for the upper flipper. Probably order a new coil too just incase. Going to be expensive as I can only find places in the US to get parts from and I am in Canada, which makes for hefty shipping charges.

So here is my Saturday afternoon project. My front cabinet has been chipped since I got it, and I never was a fan to begin with of the flat black look (especially next to my Doctor Who) so now it has some front cabinet graphics of its own!

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OK, that is very cool. Would love to know more about how you did it. Please expand.

I scanned the side graphics and "built" a solid wall of the pattern to match exactly the height of the bricks on the sides - it was important to me they align at the corners, and those bricks are not all the same height!

Then I took and after several attempts, on the third printing I got one I liked. It's a matte finish, which wasn't exactly like the slides since they are sink screened graphics, but the color matches exactly. I tried a semi gloss and an gloss, and the color faded out or just looked "wrong".

I am sure someone with better artistic ability could have gotten better - I tried to give away the scan images in the hope someone would make these! - but overall it came out pretty good I think. I would have loved to have the "Dungeons & Dragons" banner from the side repeated at the bottom of the coin door, or maybe a cool dragon around the shooter rod or start button, but it was much better than my old chipped, black cabinet.

Looks great to me. So, I assume you had this printed at a ringing store from your scans? What did it cost you?

Sharing... my new Dungeons & Dragons Backglass (yes, not a translite). Colors are very bright and saturated when off, when it's on I need to change the bulb behind it to make it less intense and perhaps whited to spread the light out.

Graphics really pop now though!

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I have a Dungeons & Dragons machine too, have you made the Mystic Million shot without having the glass off?
and does the ball seem to bounce off the metal rail and out of reach of the upper flipper at times?

Personally made the Mystic Millions once, and the switch wasn't adjusted properly and didn't register, talk about someone in disbelief!

Same, the ball does bounce off the metal rail at a weird angle which makes the upper flipper shot difficult. Would be interested what people have done to soften the bounce.

I can't make that mystic millions shot either.... just a odd angle for me.

I tried putting a piece of sticky felt where the ball usually hits after it comes off the wire form, it helps stop it bouncing away from the flipper.

Best is mystical millions 3x on one ball! I find multiball on this game weird, like it is something you kind of want to avoid because it tends to open the right ramp up to the inline drops.

Yep, it's an odd design. lock the "Wizard" ball, and try to avoid the Dragon's Lair or you open the ramp and you can't do the mystical million shot.

where and how much?

I had it custom made based on my scanned artwork. I also have the original artwork that the translite was based on, and color corrected to that.

Cost me ~200

I've got a Dungeons and Dragons translite listed for sale on Facebook. Figured I'd post it here too. $230, shipped in sturdy tube to CONUS.

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word of advice - DO NOT SHIP THAT TRANSLITE IN A TUBE. It will crack and the art will be ruined. The material is too thick to easily roll. I speak from experience.....

I appreciate the advice but the tube is how it was given to me. The tube has a pretty big diameter, which cuts down on the amount of bending required to roll it.

New to the club, and excited to be in it! I used to play D&D a lot one summer during high school when there was one in the rec center where I worked. This week I got one in a trade with a local pinfriend.

I do have questions!

Does anyone have a good grasp on the rules around teleport / ball lock? I can't quite figure out the rhyme / reason to how these work.

What I've figured out:

If I end a game with balls locked at both the shield and the dust, it will kick the dust ball back out and keep the shield ball locked.
If I end a game with a ball locked at either shield or dust, it will keep the ball locked.
If I boot the game with balls locked anywhere, it kicks them out.
Is it just a quirk of the programming / bug that it doesn't kick all locked balls out at the end of a game?

*sometimes* with a ball locked when I shoot for a teleport arrow it actually does teleport the ball, ie lock the ball I just flipped and unlock the other ball.
*sometimes* it just locks ball #2.
How do I know when it's going to teleport, and when it's going to lock?

I have this machine as for the balls being locked that is set in the game options. You can tell it to keep both balls locked at the end of the game, to keep one ball locked or to eject both balls. It will eject them at the start of a new game when the machine is powered on again.

As for the teleport feature.. I think it will teleport when the "teleport" light is flashing. Haven't looked into this much as it usually locks the balls instead.

Does anyone have a set of insert decals for sale?

Also, what kind of bulbs are the “bright lights”?

Not sure what you mean by the bright lights question..... something specific you’re referring to?

That’s what the menu system and manual refers to them as. The flashers at the slingshots are an example. I’m pretty sure they are all flashbulbs, but what type?

Hunting for a set of rear legs. Anyone have a set of 34 3/4” legs?

ok? There is only one pop bumper cap on D&D. Its a red ring like Centaur and orange or amber cap

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So got an interesting note from CPR last week - they have completed the artwork for the secondary play fields, and have a scan from a NOS D&D Playfield! No work on timing, but good news none the less. I’m sure more requests to CPR would help move this title along!

I am officially a member of The Dungeons & Dragons Club! Can someone give me the dimensions of the backglass? Mine has plexiglass that isn't large enough. I'd like height width and thickness of the glass. Thank you in advance

26-1/4" x 24-5/8" x 1/8 does this sound correct?
I forgot that Google is my friend.

Howdy all.

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