I feel like this should have been one of my first questions now that mine's almost done, but to raise the playfield do you guys pull back towards the front and flip up on the little thin sheets of plywood glued to the inside of the cabinet, then use the arm? It seems incredibly unstable. What about flipping up to work on something like the pop-bumper coils? I've also not figured out what the point is of the multiple steps in those same plywood pieces glued to the cabinet are for.

Does anyone have an idea what the "teleport Lt Empty" error means? My left teleport seems to be working fine, so I'm not certain what problem I'm trying to diagnose from the machines perspective ?

I usually get this when I'm working on the playfield and the teleport drops without a ball in it. There is a switch in the bottom of the cup to read a ball being locked. If it doesn't read it (ball goes in and bounces out before it can drop and it drops empty) it will reset the teleport to the up position. Check the switch, diode, and wires.

Thanks!

Now that you pointed it out I can feel the switch button in the black plastic cup. Sneaky!

In case anyone didn't see these in the TILT graphics thread... check these out!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tilt-graphics-inc-mods/page/8#post-3211289

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Not sure I'm loving the dragons on them. Kind of feel the open archways would pull it together a bit better seeing as the entire theme of the game is to attack the dragon in his lair. Just archways would give it more of a catacomb feel. You didn't see more dragons in Smaug's lair in the hobbit did you?

I can always make one without the Dragons.

Oh your killing me

I'm still hoping for the front cabinet / coin door version.... Sans dragons

Lol, I told you, the black front is how those came. It's actually a thin layer of black plastic laminated to the plywood. I'm guessing the plywood was manufactured that way and they did it to save some cash on vinyls

So I'm almost done going through mine (including new coil sleeves , etc) and I have one peculiar issue. The ball eject(?) that loads the ball from the trough into the shooter lane to start a game is so forceful, many times the ball bounces back into the ball trough, causing it to try to load it again. Rinse, repeat, then after three times the machine errors out. I feel like there should be some adjust on this (there isn't a lot of force needed to load a ball for a game) but I can't find any. Any thoughts on this?

Believe it or not, check your return spring on the trough. I'll bet it old, crappy, or just plain wore out. You can also cut a couple coils out the tighten it up if need be. The other thing would be to check the coil stop and piston. Mushroomed or wrong equipment would creat a longer travel and thus a harder hit coming out.

Casting a level 7 Resurrection spell-
Grail acquired!
My 1st 6803. What is the "must" do list besides the NVRAM?

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Anyone have a spare D&D Topper they are looking to sell?

Thanks

I'll keep an eye out for one jjoravec. Do any mods to yours? Any suggestion or must do items?

I havent yet, Just picked one up and going over what I need.

Ok trying to fire up my Dungeons and dragons I just got and getting the message "missing ball" when I try to start a game. I put 4 balls in it, is there somewhere on the playfield another ball needs placed?

Balls only needed in the trough. Try cleaning the optos under the apron with a Q-tip and some alcohol.

Then check out Clay's guide: http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#opto

yes check your opto board with a digital camera.by the way i need a scan from the apron,mine is not perfect...

Well I've got a scanner, tell me what area!

ok! nice!maybe repaint my apron,and created a complete decal...

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What's the highest # of "Mystical Millions" anyone has gotten in a game? I got 3 on one ball, best so far.

Is getting multi-ball actually a good thing in this game?

And what is "dust"!!!

You should do the "sword stickers" mod on the flippers for this one!

I may be able to get my hands on one of these, but I want to set it up to take dollar coins. I'm unfamiliar with the coin door on these, is it possible to make it take dollars?

In theory yes. You will need to get a dollar coin cutter and then set that chute to 1coin = 1 credit. If that's all you are planning on accepting, all chutes can be set that way. If your planning on taking quarters too, then the other chutes would need a quarter cutter and set to 4 coin = 1 credit.

ebay.com link: WIlliams Pinball Dollar Coin Acceptor Coin Mech Brand Tested Good

I have $1 mechs coming out the wazoo.

What I'm worried about is the chute, and whatever runs from the chute to the coin mech. Is the coin chute replaceable, like with sys 11 / wpc / etc coin doors? I'm not finding anything on PBR or Marco.

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Just pull the cotterpin and as long as the coin fits in the chute, the cutter should do all the work

I just got this last weekend and I'm really digging it so far. I want to do some touch ups to it such as new insert decals, add the missing wire guides where the flippers are, but for the most part, it's extremely clean with LED's already installed in most areas. Any tips for a new D&D owner?

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Welcome to the club, Remf! I love my D&D; it easily gets the most plays of my machines.

Interesting that yours has a center post between the flippers?

One tip I can share if you haven't already - change the backbox bulb to a florescent or LED asap so you don't cook your translite!

Joining the club, and almost have it up to 100%. Does anyone know what the replacement parts would be for the shooter assembly? Specifically looking for the metal shooter guide cover and the plastic bushing/guide. I don't see the parts specifically listed in the parts stores.

Also, any advice on tweaking the shooter to always go up the ramp at the start? There seems to be a lot of play in the shooter rod and doesn't always impact ball in the center. Maybe this is happening just because the plastic bushing is cracked, or do others have this issue?

There is a lot of play in the shooter rods from bally game during this time. Check to make sure the playfield isn't sliding right or left on the playfield guided in the cabinet and adjust the hooks on te front of the playfield to pull the playfield a little closer to the shooter rod

Ok, I will play around with that.

Welcome to the club! I has to shim mine with washed to get a good alignment. It's particularly importantly on this game in order to get the ball to shoot across the playfield, through the gate and around the ramp behind the playfield back.

Another question, this time on flipper coils. My lower right coil was burned out, so I just received the replacement and installed it. Works great, but...the upper right flipper is very weak, like it is always on low power mode. I have replaced sleeve, cleaned it, etc. No binding at all. I have adjusted and cleaned the EOS several times.

What I did notice, is that the coil itself is different from the lower two coils. Do I have an incorrect coil? Or perhaps is the wiring incorrect? Anyone have a thought or a picture of the upper flipper wiring to share? Thanks.

Power is feed from the lower flipper to the upper flipper. The second stack on the EOS is the power feed. I would take a look there for pitting or dirty contacts.

So - anybody here win the original D&D playfield art on Ebay? Got too rich for my blood...

ebay.com link: Bally 039 s Dungeons and Dragons Original Playfield Artwork by Pat McMahon Signed

Was hoping someone may be able help. I'm a noob so bear with me.

I had troubles with the TBS on my D&D so ordered the replacement from Great Lakes. I am trying to install the new set but can only get the transmitter board to work. When I install the receiver board I get the "missing 3 balls" error. The original boards and moles connectors are pretty hacked up so I'm thinking maybe the previous owner re wired something. I have included pictures of the original board hoping someone can help. Many Thanks

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Holy crap, did they use a blowtorch?

Wiring looks to be white/purple, blank, black, key, orange, black. No clue if the blacks are interchangeable. Should be ground thoughIMG_0304 (resized).JPGIMG_0305 (resized).JPGIMG_0306 (resized).JPG

Thanks for the reply. Mine appears to be the same(ish) but I have included a couple more pics. The original board does work it is the Great Lakes replacement that I cannot get to register. It is like there is no power going to it. Should I be looking somewhere else for the fault as the fact that the original board still works suggests the wiring is fine? Should I redo that shoddy 6-pin molex connector? Apologies again for the newbie response/questions.

Thanks

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Looks like I'm running into a weird issue that hasn't happened to me before. When playing the summon help lights up, even thought there is no ball locked and when I do get a ball locked, i have to shoot the ball up the ramp real fast before the summon help lights up again. It wasn't doing this when I got the game so I'm curious if there is something I should be looking at.

Hoping to find a like minded individual to pair up on this.

For those interested in a brick pattern graphic for the front of the cabinet (and have some graphic skills), I have some high res scans of of the blue brick pattern, that I'm hoping we can turn into a file that can be printed out. I think we just need to duplicate the pattern into a large enough wall, and scale to fit.

I have some other small ideas as well, but if you're interest in working on this send em a PM and I can share you the files I have. Would love to get this done for those interested!

My friends DnD skill shot is not registering. Is there supposed to be a rod on the right side of this gate that goes down to a switch under the playfield?

Anyone have a pic they can share or a part number?

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Answered on the facebook

Yes, i have the same issue with my machine . Did you figure out a way to resolve the problem ?

The way I resolved that issue was to keep adjusting the leaf switches until it didn't stick any more. No magic bullet, just experimented until I was blue in the face. Not a great answer I know, but it is what I did. It was torture.

I had the same problem - had to adjust about a 100 times before I got it right!

Stupid question on lifting the playfield - I always feel like I am grinding the back corners of the playfield on the 3/8 plywood attached to the sides of the cabinet that it's supposed to rest on when lifted. Also, it never feels secure and at least a couple times the playfield has gotten twisted. Is there a better way to lift?

Also, I thought some plastic rails to slide the playfield on that were a bit wider would be a great mod for these machines.

Thank you for your reply, do you have any tips on which way to bend the leaf? should it be bent forward? sideways?. I appreciate your responses as I don't look forward to lifting the playfield hopefully will only have to do it once or bend the switch from the gate area itself.

Thank you for your reply. Do you have any tips on which way to bend the leaf? should it be bent forward? sideways?. I appreciate your responses. I don't look forward to lifting the playfield hopefully will only have to do it once or bend the switch from the gate area itself. Not exactly the best skill shot design..