(Topic ID: 64090)

Official Dungeons and Dragons D&D Club - All Welcome


By DarkWizard

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 315 posts
  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Robek
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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There are 315 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 7.
#101 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan:

I d ont know...what is your problem about?

Need to replace the spring in the shooter rod and was wondering which tension was correct. Pinball Life carries these springs...

Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Red (10-148-2)

#102 5 years ago

ok,good question,i will check in the manual.

#103 5 years ago

I have a original manual part and the part number is 0010-00274-0136.i think a stronger spring is needed for dongeons.
.

#104 4 years ago

i think its a standard 10-148-1 but would be interested in knowing the part number corresponding to 0010-00274-0136 ( have to change that too)
D&D parts really are a PITA cause the ref numbers on the manual were never used again and you have to find the corresponding part number.Sometimes you find it, other times not.
A conversion table would be great.

BTW are any of you able to make the skillshot ? any advices/things to adjust ?
Can't make it, the ball never goes past the 2nd switch on the ramp up, and if i pull harder the ball doesnt enter the ramp and hits the red standups.

#105 4 years ago

Those springs are trial and error for me. If a full plunge doesn't make the skill shot, a higher tension is needed. My spring is not colored but it probably isn't an ordinary spring.

I can make my skill shot with about 90% of a full plunge, but I also have to have the rod centered just right. If you give the ball backspin it won't go up the ramp.

#106 4 years ago

I'm gonna have some time this weekend I'll check that thx tjsynkral.
Power doesn't seem to be an issue, i'll try to center the rod as you say.

And maybe have a look at the position of the metal guide bend it a bit further down so the ball stays on trajectory and doesnt slide to the red standups.

When you plunge 100% does your ball hit the standups ? or does it go all the way on the ramp ?

#107 4 years ago

Full plunge with centered rod - full u-turn on the ramp.

If the rod is slightly off the ball bumps a wall on the approach to the ramp, but I don't think it ever hits a stand up.

1 week later
#108 4 years ago

Trying to get the D&D I recently purchased dialed in so it's ready to go on location. I have a couple of issues that I could use some feedback on. First the flashers seem dim compared to other games. Second issue is that about six seconds after hitting a switch when a ball goes into play the teleport poppers will pulse and will continue to pulse every 6-7 seconds, once a ball goes into a teleport only the teleport that is still up will pulse. Are both of these normal or do I have a problem to find?

We also did some mods, using some D&D miniatures and some vintage dice as post caps. The fireball location is to block an exposed light bulb because there's a gap between the metal guide and the plastic.

P1010385.JPG P1010375.JPG P1010376.JPG P1010382.JPG
#109 4 years ago

cool I 'm not the only one annoyed by this lamp on the right!

nice idea with the dices, however i prefer symetrical designs so i might have put only two just above the flippers.

care to explain the process? dug a hole using a dremel ? then glued to the post cap ?

for the flashers you might wanna check the voltage maybe its too low...

#110 4 years ago
Quoted from Jawa:

Second issue is that about six seconds after hitting a switch when a ball goes into play the teleport poppers will pulse and will continue to pulse every 6-7 seconds, once a ball goes into a teleport only the teleport that is still up will pulse. Are both of these normal or do I have a problem to find?

You, unfortunately, have a problem.

#111 4 years ago
Quoted from Jawa:

Trying to get the D&D I recently purchased dialed in so it's ready to go on location. I have a couple of issues that I could use some feedback on. First the flashers seem dim compared to other games. Second issue is that about six seconds after hitting a switch when a ball goes into play the teleport poppers will pulse and will continue to pulse every 6-7 seconds, once a ball goes into a teleport only the teleport that is still up will pulse. Are both of these normal or do I have a problem to find?
We also did some mods, using some D&D miniatures and some vintage dice as post caps. The fireball location is to block an exposed light bulb because there's a gap between the metal guide and the plastic.

P1010385.JPG 243 KB

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P1010382.JPG 216 KB

Is that my old one? Sure looks nice if it is.

#112 4 years ago

Most of the flashers are better for brightness after reflowing all of the solder on the fuse board. The cold solder issues on these games sure haven't been exaggerated. Still trying to figure out what is up with the teleporters. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them.

Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Is that my old one? Sure looks nice if it is.

No, I got it out of state.

As for how the dice were mounted, I'll have my husband explain, since he's the one that did it:

Found some sets of vintage dice on eBay (GameScience dice, to be exact). Newer dice are made of a much harder material, so no idea if this could be done with them*, but the terrible plastic used on the old dice is a bonus here, because it's soft enough to use the post to thread it, and the act of compression when threading will make it hard enough to stay on (I could not pull the die off by hand no matter how hard I pulled). After painting the numbers with white primer (I didn't have a crayon handy), I drilled a hole partway into each die one bit size smaller than the post (be warned, there can be air pockets in the die, so go slow and be careful), then using a fair amount of force threaded the die onto a post held in a pair of vice grips, then transferred it to the post on the playfield.

*and curiosity got the better of me. Tried drilling and threading three newer dice, pictured below. The two on the left worked perfectly. The one on the right was MUCH harder to drill, powdered as I drilled, and chipped a little when I threaded it, but stays securely on the post now, but I'm pretty sure an airball or two would take it off. Anyone want a few dice with holes in them?

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2 months later
#113 4 years ago

Does anyone know if there's a replacement available for the wire gate on the top of the skill shot ramp? Mine is rusty and bent, and is having problems with either getting stuck, or trapping the ball when a successful skill shot is made (opens in reverse direction).

#114 4 years ago

Very cool, didn't know there were clubs here. (Kind of new at this, only had my machine for less than a year.) Just thought I would drop in to say hello!

7 months later
#115 4 years ago

Does anyone have a insert decal set for sale? I'd like to replace mine, the dragons fire ones specifically

#116 4 years ago

Two questions:
1. Has anyone found a replacement gate for the left skill shot ramp?
2. On my sound board, C33 has been removed or blown. I have good sound, but am wondering if I should replace that?

#117 4 years ago

Has no one been able to find a replacement gate for the left ramp? This game does not get enough attention!

#118 4 years ago

if you have good sound do not touch it.
as for replacement i don´t know. look for part number in manual and see if it pops out of internet. if not by the closest replacement possible, IMHO any gate the good size will do the trick.

#119 4 years ago

I purchased the D&D that was listed on here last week (from central WI) for 1200 (no topper).

I had a friend pick it up for me that was in the Appleton area and so it was sight unseen for me. I had spoken with the seller and he assured me it was a 9/10 playfield with no missing art on any of the inserts. Unfortunately, it has the typical missing art on the flame inserts and also the typical pitting on the side rails. Seller has said I can return the game since he overlooked the issues when advertising it.

I would prefer to save myself the 4hr roundtrip drive back to appleton area (not much time available) and seller said he got a bunch of people on here wanting to buy it. That said, if anyone is interested please let me know/ send me a PM. Maybe we can save me the hassle of driving back to Appleton sometime this month. Maybe Madison is closer for you then Appleton is and it will save you some time also.

#120 4 years ago

I guess the inverse would be to also ask if anyone has the insert art in decal form so I can just fix this game?
topper would be nice also

#121 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I purchased the D&D that was listed on here last week (from central WI) for 1200 (no topper).

Great game, I just put mine up for sale but don't want to, need room for the Stargazer I just bought. I'm going to have to build an addition or redo my double garage for more space, the pinball sickness is strong with me and I love it.

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#122 4 years ago

Okay so I bought a machine that was already taken apart. Could someone post a picture of how this area goes back together? I can't make sense of what I've got to work with here! Thanks!image.jpg

1 month later
#123 3 years ago

I see discussion about a CPR reproduction playfield from a few years ago. Is this still a possibility? I just got my Dungeons & Dragons...the playfield is not bad but not perfect.

1 week later
#124 3 years ago

They have everything they needed to get them into production now. Unfortunately, it not a high demand machine so I'm guessing it's a year or two down the road yet.

1 week later
#125 3 years ago

I replaced some burnt out bulbs in the upper pop bumpers. It was clear that the plastic standoffs that screw the upper plastic to the lower one had been....er.....creatively replaced by someone.

Does anyone have a link to those plastic standoffs? And what the right kind of screws to use are?

To clarify: these plastic standoffs have a little clip so they clip onto a hole in the lower plastic. They are threaded so a screw goes into them from the upper plastic. But I don't know what the part # is or how to search for them, if anyone knows what they are let me know.

#126 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I replaced some burnt out bulbs in the upper pop bumpers. It was clear that the plastic standoffs that screw the upper plastic to the lower one had been....er.....creatively replaced by someone.
Does anyone have a link to those plastic standoffs? And what the right kind of screws to use are?
To clarify: these plastic standoffs have a little clip so they clip onto a hole in the lower plastic. They are threaded so a screw goes into them from the upper plastic. But I don't know what the part # is or how to search for them, if anyone knows what they are let me know.

Last I checked, the standoffs were not available. Your going to have to get a little creative here too. I seem to remember ordering something close (they have the clip but no wings to keep pressure on the plastic), but an actual parts number still eludes me. I researched computer standoffs and circuit board retaining clips. Good luck and let us know if you find them.

3 months later
#127 3 years ago

Need a little help guys. Does anyone have a spare left wire form? Working on a project and need to get ahold of one. In fact, anyone with spare parts PM me.

1 month later
#128 3 years ago

So, I was working on my topper restoration today (more on that soon) but I was looking at the two translites I have for the topper, and noticed the backs were different. It looks like the top one was a more detailed cut, and the bottom is maybe a cheaper manufacturing version?

image_(resized).jpeg

#129 3 years ago

Just wish i could find a topper!

#130 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Just wish i could find a topper!

If only someone had an extra and was in Wisconsin so it was close enough to come get. Huh

#131 3 years ago

Got two Mystical Millions on my first ball today and ended up with 9,422,000 good enough for score #2 on my machine...I need to check the audits on it to see how many games that covers. Wish they had done more with this theme, like fighting a series of dragons up to the boss red dragon or something.

#132 3 years ago

So excited I finally got to join the club!! Hoping to this weekend get it shopped and get my topper on it. Special thanks to Tallon for the help!

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#133 3 years ago

Looking for a topper still and not wanting to pay the 500 some are asking...

#134 3 years ago

Anyone have a PDF of nice instruction cards (other than pincardz)? I saw pincardz ones from a few pages upthread; but hoping to find some I can print myself.

#135 3 years ago

Starting to look at my machine a bit more (still excited to say "mine" ) and it looks like there is a battery soldered to the upper right of the cpu board!? I assume some preventative maintenance should be to get it off there? Is there any other preventative maintainence I should be looking at? I know these 6803 machines seem to be made of pretty stern stuff, but worth asking?

#136 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Starting to look at my machine a bit more (still excited to say "mine" ) and it looks like there is a battery soldered to the upper right of the cpu board!? I assume some preventative maintenance should be to get it off there? Is there any other preventative maintainence I should be looking at? I know these 6803 machines seem to be made of pretty stern stuff, but worth asking?

http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#corrosion

#137 3 years ago

Thanks! Looks like some good info.

From the page -

1) replace the battery on board with off board battery holder
2) per the Bally service bulletin, remove cap c12 on the sounds deluxe board
3) for preventive maintenance, I am replacing the trough opto boards with the GLM redesign

Thanks!!

#138 3 years ago

For the old Bally machines I like using "super caps".

amazon.com link »

It's a 5.5v 1-1.5uf capacitor. Last damn near forever. Acts just like a battery. No real risk of leaking. Only thing is you need to turn the game on at least once a month to charge it up. I'm guessing that won't be a problem?

1 week later
#139 3 years ago

Working on cleaning/rebuilding coils on my machine...does anyone know what coil sleeve the A 12-2600 coil uses?

I have ot say the parts and operating manuals on these machines are not very helpful with part identification

#140 3 years ago

Yeah, you can ignore the part numbers completely. There pretty much useless. When I started my restore I bought this
image_(resized).jpeg

As you can see, that's what's left from 30 of them. The only sleeves that are different are the drop target reset and the teleport.

Good luck

1 week later
#141 3 years ago

Hello, proud member of the club here. I am finally shopping my machine and getting it ready to play. So now I need some advice / help from fellow members.

1. Since there is no conversion table for part numbers (would be a great idea like archaik suggested) I need to know how to find following springs: top mounted kicker assembly spring (manual has it listed as 0010-00274-0207) and teleport drop target spring (manual has it listed as 0010-00275-0310).

2. I'm missing two flipper switch screws, any idea which size they are? Coming from Europe I'm always confused with imperial units.

3. I have brand new repro plastic set from CPR. Any of you who have changed them in your machines care to give any hints / tips on replacing the clear plastics attached to those thin metal posts? I tried to pull the posts off from old plastic by hand and feels like PITA job. Is there any trick to remove the posts from old plastic and attaching them to new plastic? I will put a picture here to show which type I mean.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
IMG_2469_(resized).JPG

1 week later
#142 3 years ago

Does anyone get a small shock from their machine touching the side rails when the playfield is up? Could there be some grounding issue?

#143 3 years ago
Quoted from flipperilaakso:

3. I have brand new repro plastic set from CPR. Any of you who have changed them in your machines care to give any hints / tips on replacing the clear plastics attached to those thin metal posts? I tried to pull the posts off from old plastic by hand and feels like PITA job. Is there any trick to remove the posts from old plastic and attaching them to new plastic? I will put a picture here to show which type I mean.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!

I wonder if anyone sells just the metal stand up posts? If so you could attach them to the new plastics with something like a grommet punch?

#144 3 years ago
Quoted from flipperilaakso:

2. I'm missing two flipper switch screws, any idea which size they are? Coming from Europe I'm always confused with imperial units.

Mine were #4-40 screws of various lengths....

#145 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

I wonder if anyone sells just the metal stand up posts? If so you could attach them to the new plastics with something like a grommet punch?

Yes, I guess that could work. I think most guys probably just don't bother to change these plastics since most of them aren't visible anyway. But would be nice to change them nevertheless.

#146 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Mine were #4-40 screws of various lengths....

Thank you sir! This helps a lot.

#147 3 years ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

I wonder if anyone sells just the metal stand up posts? If so you could attach them to the new plastics with something like a grommet punch?

I like going from the bottom but this works

To remove, just insert the iron from the bottom for a second or 2 and the plastic pretty much falls off

#148 3 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

I like going from the bottom but this works
» YouTube video
To remove, just insert the iron from the bottom for a second or 2 and the plastic pretty much falls off

Thank you so much Tallon! That looks simple and efficient. I was also entertaining the thought of using heat but hadn't figured out the best way to do it. I will definitely give this method a try.

#149 3 years ago

So what do you use to clean the translite? I discovered earlier today the answers are NOT novus 1 or glass cleaner

#150 3 years ago

It depends on what you are trying to get off. Ammonia takes off smoke, dawn and water on a rag takes off most dirt and grease, lcd cleaner (50/50 water to alcohol) for general cleaning. Always applied to cloth and wiped down and always a lint free cloth (I like old t-shirts) I equate the plastic in the translite to a lcd screen on a laptop

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