Novus is not a cleaner or a wax - it is an abrasive designed to remove scratches.

I use carnuba wax (pure, not a paste or mixed with anything) and 99.9% isopropanol for cleaning.

Depends on how dirty we are talking.

For a dirty machine, I like to start with naptha. It is good to break down old wax, and also remove dirt. I try to lift the dirt away as much as possible.

I'll then go to Novus2 as a polish, and go over the PF.

That's really good enough. Wax is a preference, I generally like to apply a light carnauba as I find it increases the speed of the machine.

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I generally reserve Novus1 for heavy CC PFs, since it is has a lot of water in it... but TBH,. it's probably fine as well for quick cleans.

I don't have experience with any other polishes, I've used this product on machines from the 1960s to 2019 with no issue.

Many people will use some alcohol as well, generally this is ok.. but I have had some varnishes react to it, so I prefer naptha over it. If unsure, always best to test an area under the apron etc.

Thanks- I don't think it had been cleaned in the years prior to my purchase so I wanted to vacuum out what I could, do a light clean, and get a fresh coat of wax across the playfield to protect it. I just want to make sure I don't damage the playfield, which is what I was worried about Novus doing. I've read Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide) here on pinside, and it describes pretty well about how Novus is an abrasive and strips away top layers. Novus 1 is the only one I had considered using.
I've also seen (in the same pinside post, posts #23-#26) use magic eraser + isopropyl alcohol to buff by removing the top coat, only to have it strip away paint... so I was worried that the alcohol might strip away the coating.

So it looks like Naphtha for cleaning and removing old wax, and Carnauba to wax.

It depends on how well you want it to look in the end, and how bad it is to start with.
Those 2 answers determine what you need to do.
On mine I vacd, Naphtha scrub, then decided on Novus 2 scrub to get rid of some of the clearcoat wear, then Blitz wax. If you wanted to get rid of ball swirls then more agressive magic eraser would be the only choice for that scenario or maybe the heavier novus 3. Gets rid of some color, but again, see first question.
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This is magic eraser on ball swirl. I will use it on some of my swirl.
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Just got finished installing new rubbers on the playfield. Looks so much nicer now with clean whites. Will have the playfield cleaned up probably tomorrow. I don't have a lot of ball swirl, so I think I'll forgo the magic erasure route. Thanks everyone for your input/help!

More then likely you have a blown 2n5060. happens all the time. Just change it out and you should be up and running.

Hello! Nice save! Playfield looks very nice! Welcome to the club.

My skill shot gate up in the top left keeps getting stuck open. Is there supposed to be a spring on it? It is catching on the switch behind the gate.

PXL_20220612_201712799 (resized).jpg

No spring. I had to work on this section quite a bit. Had to get the gate the right width and angle to swing freely, then make sure the leaf switch only touches at the very top so the wore doesnt get held up by the tension.

Thank you Chalkey

Well... No luck in finding just a topper. Messaged quite a few people, put in bids for just a topper, etc. So... I bought a whole second machine w/topper.
Totally reasonable solution, right? Made a 12hr round-trip today to get it. Guess now I need to put one up for sale.

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Nice!.. It really is an amazing topper.

Hi,

My newly bought d&d is originally from germany, with german as default language. I’ve ordered a new romset to sort it out but when I install it the game won’t boot anymore. Yes, I did rotate them right from the beginning with the “marking” on top.

Any ideas? Do the company That I ordered from have a faulty copy?
Did anyone successfully tried the ROM from ipdb in their game, or have a known working ROM-file?

The ipdb rom should be fine. I have the virtual pinball table of D&D that runs with that rom file and there's no issue.
Needs to be both U2/U3. (You probably did both, but just in case). German and US use the same sound rom, so you don't need to replace those.

Step 1: Go by the indent/notch; never go by the label when installing. Eproms will fail if they are installed backwards.
Step 2: Double check that all your rom's legs are in the sockets because they're easy to bend.
Step 3: Try putting the old roms back in and see if they work fine; If this is the case, it's most likely that you got a bad burn/damaged chip/broken leg.
Step 4: If the old roms don't work anymore, check fuses and do other troubleshooting.

Pinballrom.com sells a set of both for $19 right here via pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/05970-rom-dungeons-amp-dragons-cpu), or you can go to somewhere like actionpinball.com where they're $18 each. I've not personally ordered roms (yet) so I can't vouche for quality from available sellers.

For a brief moment, I had two Dungeons & Dragons. I feel like this is some kind of rare achievement. haha!

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Lucky guy! I've been looking for a nice one of these for awhile... not easy to come by given the low production numbers...

Are they gonna make the playfields for this beast at CPR,like for real?

I know they have the art! I understand the back glasses did not sell well….

It's cuz it is a perfectly good translite on most games. It shouldn't sell nearly as good as something that replaces a 40 year old flaking backglass.

I have a version of the translite made into a backglass - same art, which is awesome and tied back too the game. If they had made a mirrored version of the same art I’d have been all over it, but the photoshop stuff just doesn’t look right, esp with the topper art.

It’s because the people who love this game are linked to the Elmore art. It is Dungeons and Dragons. The art package Stu did was perfectly fine just not D&D

It has been discussed in this thread before if you want to read more. I noticed it on mine as well. Was gonna resolve it one way or another after I finish the topside of my pf

Decals done except the topper out of gas for today on it but stoked the head is back on

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Anyone know where to buy trough opto boards? Marco out of stock, pinball life doesn’t have them. Interested in a local game, but has problems with the trough and I don’t want to buy the game if the boards are nla.

Those decals look incredible! Did you have to do any cab repair? I want to do decals but the bottom of my cab has swelled and I think it'd be an uphill battle trying to sand and have it not just flake everywhere from the bottom.

As for the optos, you can always just rebuild the boards. It could be something as simple as a loose connector or too much light coming in to the apron for some reason. Ministry of pinball and https://www.pindorabox.com both have them in stock.

I got mine from Great Lakes Modular and they work great! http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/wpc_ufb.html

Thanks really happy with how it came out
Had to do a crap load of cab repair
Rebuilt the right side panel on the head,I didn’t really have to,but had a little wiggle in it so it got removed
Took a long time but it’s solid as a rock now

How did you deal with the edges?

I thought these guys went out of business.

Wood filler(the killer stuff),fiberglass resin
Took forever to find the time

Little by little

The sides of the cab top and bottom are made from 5/8 particalboard

If one side is good use as a template
My lower cab was pretty good ,but you can pop that side off and make a new one

You’ll need a table saw and router

Use many coats of wood hardener if the bottom side of each panel of the box feel suspect or “flaky” at all

Bought some from them as well I believe in the last six months haven’t put them in yet

well, that's interesting...I emailed them today to inquire about the boards, but I'm not expecting anything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business#post-5314899

I can’t be 100% on where I bought them now that I think about it but these are the ones I have

image (resized).jpg

My decals are not amazing. The cab has minor swelling on the bottom edge of the particleboard / whatever. I'm not a bad enough dude to slap new sides onto the cabinet but I also don't know if it's worth just sanding / filling the bottom edge or if it's just chasing bad with good.

If it minor you can sand it right down

It is minor, you can feel that the edge has a little "wave" where it goes out. I just figured sanding that edge the particle board or whatever would just be sanding off in giant chunks.

Was cleaning up some extra magazine stacks today and noticed this advert on the back of Issue 131 of Dragon….

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I am looking for insert decals.. Does anyone know where they can be purchased? I know someone had some custom made https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/dungeons-dragons-d-pinball-machine-517218507

I'm surprised someone hasn't just made them and put them up for sale!

I realized mine is also doing this.. Does anyone know what the fix is?

Fyi those decals shown are not the correct font.
Also here are some from a user on here, I think the font is slightly off on these as well
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w1l7p1fev3tv20v/AADNANl9wmJf1Muo3sfyeC3sa?dl=0&preview=DandD+DecalsOLD+version.docx

I haven't found the correct font yet but did touch up on mine.

I'm not too concerned with how accurate the font is. My flame decals are completely smoked so I'm just looking to do a replacement

Mine is slightly lower on the left on the top, however, PF is level and square on that corner, so I'm guessing it is just the cut and fit of the back pieces.. As the back panel, is secured and could not move that much.

My guess is that perhaps it is a bit of an adjustment, the original question photo of this seems like quite a difference.. so perhaps a prev owner adjusted the bracket on the back to allow the left ramp to be bent down somewhat.. this would come out like a sag, but would make the dungeon advance a lot easier.

Personally I think mine is set up quite well.. the shot is extremely difficult on my set up.. but do-able with just the perfect shot from the upper right. Prob 1/20 good attempts making in through.. lol

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Yeah, I was confused because mine is exactly the same. I was almost wondering if they were designed like that

Odd request! - can someone take a picture of the underside of their lockdown bar…. After all these years I think I have the wrong one on my machine - it’s never really locked right.

Thanks!