So they came
I DO like the quality ,the lower cab is beautiful
I’m a little thrown as I get why you would take liberties with the dragon head illustration,I like it better but look at the overall height of the head decal
I guess it just fades into the black?

Red is very prone to fading

Those head decals are odd -- look like they are not scaled right or something!

Agree gonna look at it here in a minute

I love the red looks bad ass just thrown by the decal not reaching the bottom

So mystery solved. Seller says the art file is wrong and it was his mistake and he’s going to send me send me a new set of the heads

would soeone trade there d&d for my excalibur?

So pumped to have new decals can’t wait to put these babies on

Post when you get the new ones! where did these come from?

Well… gave up on shipping ($600+) and drove the 700 miles myself. Now for the 700 miles back!

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Thats a long drive! Drive safe! And enjoy your game when you get home!

I would LOVE to treat D&D to some new decals but the mdf on mine is chewed up in places and I don't feel like I'd have much luck with repair. Anybody mess with restoring the edges on this stuff?

what does it look like? For splits, I have filled with watered down wood glue. For missing chunks, mix wood glue with saw dust and use it like wood filler. If it's a big enough piece, you can cut out the damaged area and either reinforce the inside or use biskets or dowls to butt them up. do not use the pocket screws as they have a tendance to split the wood as it gets older and drier. then just sand and fill and minor imperfections. skim coat of bondo or if it's in good enough shape, just some primer and then paint and new decals.

BTW it's not mdf its pressboard. big difference.

It's the edges that are chewed up and some corners are missing, so I'm guessing it would take creating new corners with bondo?

Got it home last night... checked fuses, checked wires, etc... got it on its legs and plugged it in. Seems to be all working, though it is missing the "roar / laughter" sounds when you start the game as well as the roulette end-game (match the number). I'm guessing the latter is an option in the menu (I've not had a chance to go through the menus in detail yet). Missing the upper left playfield plastic, but otherwise the playfield is in really great condition. The translite is flawless on this one; even has the original purchase date and service tickets for this machine.

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Sick!!

I'm not sure bondo is the right thing for corners and edges - I would recommend reading Vid's guide : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide

Suggestion was made that I ask here, since someone might have replaced their plastics- Does anyone have an extra upper left ramp plastic (see image) that they would be willing to sell?

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EDIT: Of course, an hour after I post this- someone posts a bunch of original D&D plastics on ebay. lol... Well, I bought the part I needed, but it looks like the guy listed about 17 other original (non-reproduction) plastics in case anyone else is looking for some replacement parts.

Guess all I need now is a topper... (saying this in hopes one pops up on ebay in an hour! LOL!!! )

EDIT 2: Found out that the sound settings on my machine were set "wrong". There's 4 options, and someone had set it to "5". Turned it back to factory default, and all the sudden I now have dragon roars and witch laughing, etc! I guess I really should've done the factory settings reset sooner.

Speaking of which... Can anyone tell me what "German Prize / German Meter" and "Slingshot" do? I enabled/disabled both but am not seeing any difference in gameplay or display?

Going to apply the art to my cab this weekend

Question to the group

To do the front art or stock black

Your game your call. For me, I try and keep the game original as possible. I wish man onca told me “why would you alienate half the people?” You can always add to the game but can never count on everyone liking it. Stock game is what came out of the factory, that’s what the game is.

The black front was a money saving thing from the factory.
I assume they would have put art on the front if not for budget reasons, it surely would attract more people to play the game than just black - thereby making the operators more money, which was the whole point of pinball games.
So I would do front art as it looks way better.

I do think what Zigzagzag said is probably right about the cost; This was one of the last Bally machines before the Williams purchase in '88. They probably didn't have much money to throw at it, especially after adding the dragon topper.
I've seen a few with the blue brick fronts and while they do look nice, but I'm keeping my cabinet as stock/original as possible. I just feel like there's more value in an original, unmodified cabinet. But I'm also a sucker for pinball patina.
Changing the front art shouldn't make much of a difference in value, should you ever think about selling/trading later.

In the end, it's your cabinet; do what you prefer.

Holy crap do I have some siderails and lockdown bars for you. Seriously, I have no clue where they got that crappy stainless but I have as of yet to get one without rust on it. I have had rails and lockdown so bad I had to have them powder coated and I can say the game looks great in black rails and lockdown with the front black too

Going for the black front as I’ve powder coated the coin door and I think it will look great

Ive powdercoated the legs,coin door ,hinges ,all the brackets in and around the neck,and the speaker grill
Nothing radical,all the colors they are,or I guess were

I like the rails and lockdown stainless on my games for the most part

Can someone from the group get a measurement for me?
I need the side graphic on the lower cab “Dungeons and Dragons”

Not the blue brick,the text with the white trim end to end left to right

Much appreciated thanks !

I have received my Optaboards for the trough for my DND.

I was wondering if anybody had a picture or could take the time to get a picture for me of the wiring that is attached to the optos where they plug-in

I don’t believe that these are correct 100% and I don’t trust the manual schematics 100%

I’m in no rush just if anybody has the time I would really appreciate it

Not sure if this pictures help, but here you go? About 49.75" total cab length front-to-back, and the logo (from each of the white points) side-to-side is about 46.5". If you measure from the front of the cab to that white point, it sits 1 and 5/8ths" back.

Not 100% sure where you're needing a picture for the opto/wiring, but http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#opto has a really good breakdown of opto repair for the bally 6803.

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Damn man thank you!

Hi, could someone please let me know the correct coil reference for the upper right flipper? I cannot seem to find the coil numbers in the documentation and would like to confirm that I have the correct coil fitted as my D&D has trouble making the ramp shot on the supper left.

Thanks in advance.

It’s the same coil for all the flippers. Listing is in the parts manual not the operations manual. Copy is on IMDB if you wan to look it up

The ramp shot is definitely tough even with everything working correctly. Check your EOS and vertical play for sure. The white circle on the linkage gets easily worn on these and may need replaced as well.

Goog call. Didn't remeber that!

I'll check - thanks.

Powder coating came back pumped

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WOWWOW! That looks great! Show us the installed photos please. I'm on the hunt for a coin door that isn't dinged up if anybody has a lead.

This is my favorite club, I fn love this game. Mine is now available for play at Center of the Universe Brewery in Ashland, VA for 50c.

I will for sure
Ditto on this club best on PS love this game as well
Dungeons & Dragons FTW

Excuse the mess
Wanted to put the decals on under harsh natural back lighting so I brought it out the garage
So far so good
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I did black on the coin door and neck bracket and speaker panel and I did the legs close to original color
I think with the new stainless I think it’s all going to tie in well I just couldn’t get the legs on today cause I don’t have the standoffs yet

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Looking great! I wish you did the side rails in black too just so I could see how it would look

Can you tell me what prep work you had to do for the cab? My bottom edge has some moisture expansion.

Looking really nice! Such a vibrant color compared to my original cab that I'm half tempted to update mine.

Thanks
I’m waiting to decide on the rails and lockdown bar as I wanted the option

The prep work seemed like it never ended which is only a drag because I don’t want my game to become forgotten about.Obviously there is a lot to do regarding it,and I want to keep all the rest fresh in my mind as I only do one thing at a time
Now I’m moving to the head
I just filled,sanded,then sealed and sanded 3-4 times
Filling things goes on forever as you ALWAYS find more and the edge takes alot of patience as you have to wait in between applications and life gets in the way on top of that
Use 80grit w a orbital to get all the glue off then go from there
I would imagine,without seeing yours ,that you could just sand it down down down with 80,then fill back for a good form,then seal it

Once you get past the damaged area it’s not going to keep falling away,you can then firm up what’s there and come back

I know I’m being vague,PM me and I could go over it in more detail,happy to help if I can

I would not advise at all,to use a wet method on these cabs only dry

Just saw one listed on Facebook about an hour ago for $3k. Lexington, KY location. Says they will not ship.
Only about a 3hr drive away for me. Lot shorter than my drive to New York for mine!

Edit: Pending/sold, looks like. Sold within an hour of posting.

Topper?

Alas, no topper; I would've made an offer on the topper.

WOW those are amazing? Where are those from? Does the set include all the head art up to and including the topper? I wonder if they would make a matching set with just the brick in front (I have mine already with the brink in front that I had scanned and printed, and really prefer it in my lineup!)

eBay arcadeamusements? I believe
Had some issues with the first batch he was all over it and worked to get them perfect
I really can’t say enough about the guy who makes them good dude

They are real nice and yes head and topper and front brick included
I’m not using the front brick but I do have the topper and will be doing that but first the head as I do one thing at a time

Was it this guy? Those look nice.

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