I'm sure he didn't mind all the free bumps.

I had the worst day ever with my DND yesterday. All I wanted to do was replace the coil on the left wireform. After changing that coil, half of my flashers died. After about an hour of debugging the phase C and D wires, I found the problem was actually the J11 wire going from 6803 to fuse panel for the left sling flasher I was most focused on, and the others were all shaken loose from the 906 sockets from playfield raising and lowering and it was only a coincidence they were all on the same phase...

After that my restore dust lamp socket failed, the diode fell out from the socket (I hate these sockets without a tab). And now, I have a bad leaf switch AND bad gate on top of the skill ramp, and that's on my to-do list tonight. I also ended up with a sore back from lifting the playfield which is not designed to be worked on by human beings, really. A couple of times it shifted off the rail and sunk into the cabinet and I had to yank it out.

I have a new respect for bayonet sockets thanks to DND!

Also look at my gameroom photo to check out my bricks.

I always kinda wanted one of these. Instead I will just read this thread and pretend.

I really like this game. I have a lot of fun with it

My D&D started spitting a second ball into the shooter lane. It doesn't happen until a ball is locked, so I'm thinking its a ball count issue. Maybe the opto board in the trough? I also have 7 lights not working, 3 in the flames and one behind each bank of targets (one red, blue, yellow). I enjoy the game so much that I haven't shut it down to spend time diagnosing problems. I just turn it on and start playing every time.

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nice topper, I hear that makes the game.

But Bally 6803 testing is "easy as ABC!"

Hah!

I had ball trough issues like that and new opto boards took care of it.

Are there still any opto boards on the market? My machine has a hacko wood block and incandescent (visible) lamps setup. (My receiver board is fine.) It works OK but I'm not a fan of it, and the power comes not from the opto board connector but with a doorbell transformer wired into the service outlet...

What a strange opto board set up! Id love to see pics of the hacko wood block!

Out of stock at the moment, but here:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/6803tbs.html

Yeah, those opto boards have been "out of stock" everywhere for at least half a year. I think they are extremely scarce. I'm probably stuck with the hacko.

I have a PF laying around...am i part of the club kinda maybe?

I have an NOS Playfield that I scanned, so now I'm still looking for the 2 Mini PF's so we can do the Repro....Won't happen until we find the Mini's.....

I am part of the club too! I got a beautiful machine with a topper - the game grows on me - and after getting a Space Invaders.... the D&D is infinitely better

1750's not a bad price with topper if it is in good condition. The main indicator of condition on this machine is the decals on the flames. Mine had none, and the only replacement decals are these awful labels printed on a laser printer and they require a clear coat. Which is what I did... The light shines through the ink a little bit, too.

If you get one with intact decals you probably should clear it anyway.

I've played SI on location, and it was a borefest. The most exciting thing about it is that it's an illegal machine.

I have an elf with an awesome THAC0! Oh wait, this is a different type of D&D club. My bad.

Thanks, but I sold it... lol

How do you mean illegal?

The thing I like about SI is the cultural appeal - 11k + units ... everyone who's getting into pinball/has got into it has probably seen/heard of it - The complete pinball book (http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Pinball-Book-Collecting/dp/0764337858) has pictures of the SI playfield inside the covers ...

But the game play sucks - and to top it off, I have a switch that's overly tight and gets triggered each time I hit a flipper which I need to fix at some point ...

i put a light (gi) on my left ramp,too dark before.and i contact a d&d owner from europe to help stu for find a scan.

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I bought mine last month from Mad Amusements..

So you need a good quality scan of these two mini playfields?

What kind on scanner do you need?

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joining the club!

i guess i'm the european guy.
don't have a scanner though ... maybe some hIRes pics will suffice?

mine is teared apart right now, i'm working on PF touchups

Any flatbed scanner should do just fine, as long as I'm provided with the Length & Width Measurements as well. Scans should be done at 100% of Original Size at 300 DPI and saved as a .TIF File (NOT a .Jpg)......If you don't have a scanner you can go to an Office Supply Store (like Staples or Office Max) or even a Print Shop & they will scan them for you.

No Hand-held Scanners & No Photos.....

Stu

Hah, THAC0 is so 2nd edition. Hey it's already 13 years since 3rd came out... time flies...
Had to reject a D&D two months ago because a little goblin is arriving in february and we need the room.

Haha. I was beginning to think nobody would get that. Congrats on the little one!

As part of being in the club, I thought I'd demystify the rules (or at least what I understand of the rules):

1. The 20 flames in the middle of playfield - super cool - they start all being lit. The dragon is breathing flames at you - there are 10 drop targets, 3 sword, 3 shield and 4 dust. Each one you hit douses 1 flame - leading to a ball drain bonus that starts at 1k, and ends at 20k (for the 20th flame doused) - so, if you hit 4 targets and then drain, your ball drain bonus is 1k + 2k+ 3k+ 4k = 10k. This status persists ... so the next ball, you start with only 16 flames lit. Once all 20 flames are doused, you get a 2x bonus (420k total) - and you can do it again, for a 3X bonus, and so on so forth. Drop targets can be "restored" by hitting various targets/going to various places... I believe this is only available when all the drop targets in a set (sword, shield or dust) are down.

2. The upper right mini playfields - has 3 doors - and then the mystical millions - hit these from left flipper - first have to get a ball trapped, to lower the ramp. first door is 10k, 2nd is 25k, 3rd is 50k - 4th time gets you extra ball and shot at the million points - which you hit with upper right flipper (a nice youtube video is available for this).

3. multiballs - the left and right traps must hold balls for multiball to work - DRagons lair in upper playfield sets off 2 ball multiball if the same side warrior/wizard trap has a ball - the ramp on the upper left sets off all 3 ball multiball ... not sure under what conditions.

I haven't figured out the dungeon multiplier - any thoughts on it? Also, anything else I am missing? Thanks,

MMC

Getting the ball up the left ramp takes you up a level in the dungeon. Increasing the multiplier.

The teleport feature will light after you lock a ball. If you have a ball in the left lock and shoot the right lock (drop ramp) while the teleport light is on; it will trap your one ball and simoutaniously spit the other out. Like your warrior was teleported across the dungeon. ( and vice versa for the other side )

Does anyone else have problems with the wire backboard entrance gate at the top of the skill ramp, where it gets stuck all the way up and then the ball just goes under it? I'm not sure how to fix it, I've tried bending it various ways. I don't think I want to put lubricant on it.

That was a very good summary! One day I hope to have the room to snag a CQ one of these and join the club.

Ok guys nice summary ! Can't wait to play mine... once reassembled ... in a few months...sigh

a friend is gonna lend me his scan i'll try to do the minis asap.

great idea to lit up the left ramp! I'm considering LEDing mine, mostly GI i'd like to have the same GI as the targets ( blue/red/yellow) and maybe orange between bumpers.

led on gi is not a good thing on this machine,too dark for my taste.a put orange standard led for orange flame and super bright for target.for backbox i put a led to protect my translite again heat.the right sling shot plastic is made by me it was missing.im waiting cpr set.

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I like dark! its D&D after all , you push the dungeon door , make a critical failure and the master tells you you lost 10hp cause you stamped your foot with ya sword cause your leather sheath just broke ^^

man those super bright ....are super bright indeed, nice job with the sling

i need to find 2 yellow ridged bats for the main flippers., at reasonable price....

I use retros for my GI, the LED is brighter than incandescent.

What do you guys use for your instruction cards? I am still running on stock cards and want to change it. The ones I've already found, I don't like.

PinCardz:

http://s498.photobucket.com/user/iko3185/media/PinCardz/23.jpg.html?sort=6&o=35#/user/iko3185/media/PinCardz/23.jpg.html?sort=6&o=35&_suid=138265143348901396004031953922

Fun game!

i receive my cpr plastic set today!shipping is very fast.reproduction quality is amazing, the color and texture of the kicker plastic is identical. :applause:i post pics later.

i complete my plastic protector with lexan part,ad my cpr plastic set and pics...d xd 002.JPGfete steph 020.JPGfete steph 021.JPG

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Wow.

Super nice. Could you give us novices some more info on your protectors? Hand cut those?

I was tired of getting balls stuck under the upper flipper, so I changed a band. So far so good.
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thanks,i use scrollsaw and sandy ribbon table for radius and straight shape.the lexan is find in rona or renot depot store.

that set looks good pinballfan, + very little wear on your playfield i'm jealous.
gotta change those bats to ridged ones though
just bought some cost me an arm but really had to have 'em .
still struggling with the paint job stage, didn't hear back from the guy who had the inserts decals, looking for the file if someone has it. else I'll have to spend some time vectorizin

Yes...thought it was just me. Anyone resolved this? Not enough ummph from flippers?

How high do owners have the rear of their machine off the floor?
I have trouble leveling up in the game. I think I need to mess with the wire gate that leaves the left shield restore shot.
Game is fast either way I'm sure though!

Now I'm trying to tweak the entrance to the left ramp on my game.
Can anybody snap a pic of what this looks like on their game from the ball's point of view?
I'm curious what angle/shape your wire ramp is, how it lines up (over/under) the left wall right next to it that leads up the ramp. I'm sure I need to make other adjustments but am having trouble leveling up and shooting for the skill shot.

Anyone figure out how to stop the ball from getting stuck in the left ramp? Happens maybe 1 out of 20-25 times; so not often, but often enough to be very annoying.

LowScores: i can try to take a shot of my ramp tonight and post for you.

Also, any one see those cabinet decals available anywhere? They were on ebay a month or so ago, but have since disappeared.

Relisted, just bought 1 of the last 2 available:
ebay.com link: itm