Ok, started last week and reading through all the posts here on this topic....at about 110/157 pages currently...

Guess to summarize, looks like my wife and I are both masochists with how people describe the difficulty of this game. Considering we're both new to pinball in general (we've played more over the past month or two than the rest of our lifetimes combined), we had SOOO much fun with AIQ on location that we made it our first pin (and this my first post). We suck so bad at pinball compared to the vast majority of people here on pinside, but every day we get on this machine we're glued to it and seeing a slow steady improvement in skill/score.

We barely have room for this pin, but should change over the next year as we're adding space to the house...and already trying to plan the order of which ones to get (have a HWN on reservation). We tried a JP at the place that has AIQ but for some reason didnt click. Saw on the map there was a DP at a bar somewhere, so need to make an event of it some morning.

Anywho....just thought I'd jump in on the forum and pop the cherry on adding a comment...this game rocks!

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Soooo, I have a question and a half (half because I think I know what the problem is from reading previous posts but just laying it out anyway).

1. I've been adding a some random little mods/upgrades/adjustments to fine tune the system and one of them today was adding Titan flipper standard silicone rubbers (first time using something like this in my limited experience). I get that each type of material and such reacts differently, but wanted to see if the consensus of these silicone type things is that it tends to be...sticky? Like if the ball hits or slides at it from an angle or opposite ball rotation, theres friction that causes it to seem like its kinda braking? I mean, I'm loving how they're making ball catches easier, just the other part of it is kinda jarring initially. Maybe I need to get used to it.

1.5 Now heres the half question. My right flipper had seemed for a while like it was weaker than the left, even from a fresh cold boot. I found the standard evidence as described in previous posts about the coil stops with the shavings at the bottom of the cabinet. I took the stop from the upper flipper which looked like it was in much better condition but still seemed to be a bit weak after moving it to the right one. Even that thud from the flipper activation sounds slightly dull compared to the left one. I did order some stop replacements and also the Tibetan fans (wife and I played for a couple of hours today without a break and definitely noticed it getting worse at the end) which will hopefully get here by end of next week, but if theres anything else anyone can recommend for me to look at while I wait, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cool, I'll fiddle with it and see if there's a difference in rigidity. Thanks!

Cant tell from the angle of the photo, but make sure the tip of the rod is not too close to the sensor. I had that problem once.

Also, thanks to the advice from earlier this week, changed the flipper bushings, coil sleeves and stops, and added some coil fans (why not). Everything is a lot more snippy with a good amount of force. I might revisit some minor adjustments later when i get the cliffy's later as I'm not sure the spacing really required between the bushing, flipper and the piston/arm thing that holds the flipper. But it looks right compared to some things i'm finding online.

The last thing I need to figure out is if I need to replace the motor that controls the lifting/lowering of the spinning disc. I'm getting occasional jams where it doesnt lower all the way. I have to take off the glass and push it down (gave up after the first time where I took it apart and forcibly rotated that part, so just pressed down from the 2nd+ occurance).

I might need to reach out to them for the walking mech as well. Debating... I think their new tray, or whatever is called, has the middle slit running all the way to the end of the subway which makes it harder for it to get stuck at the lip. Mine on a semi regular basis when the ball shoots into that hole from the playfield, it'll bounce a bit and jump INTO the subway and get stuck there at the lip. I end up just lifting it from the side to have it slide down, but if the new slit eliminates it, I might request it as well.

I've been fiddling with the spinner disc for a couple of weeks and part of the symptoms are seeming identical to what I was experiencing. The OEM fix is getting the leveling kit replacement. Forgot what its called exactly, bushing carrier? That needs to be replaced (either by stern or 1956pinhead carrier upgrade is a fantastic improvement). My issue was directly related to the copper bushings becoming loose during spin/lift/lowering. The very slight angle of the rod created from not having the bushing in place was causing too much friction and you can hear the metal-on-metal rubbing sound. Also with that friction the lift assembly would get stuck trying to lift the rod. Think when you spin it by hand you create enough force to have it spin "centered" but when hit by the ball getting it to spin from an already compromised position is preventing it to get it started.

A temporary fix if it is the bushing popping off from the carrier is very carefully applying some super glue to the bushing to have it stay in its spot. Either way, check the status of those bushing first.

Started playing with the browser app yesterday. Also tried out someone's MCU edits/inserts. Fun stuff. Kinda motivated to mess around with what I can come up with as well. Someone mentioned the game was based off the second season of the show? Might be interesting to kinda mix some of the MCU OST with show clips. I'll have to hunker down and watch at least those episodes and see what it has to offer.

Yeah, thats the one. Some of the videos were not popping up though =/ . I could see it in the browser but would not play during the game. The one specifically that stood out was the bonus end of ball video. It would still have the image/video loop of whatever i was currently doing when the ball drained.

Some thoughts on your half ramps, when I got mine I was experiencing similar issues especially with the right flipper. I took a look at the mechanisms, and the coil stops were breaking apart even though it had just gotten a few plays (I'm second owner and previous person didnt play it much). I replaced the stops and sleeves...went ahead and replaced the bushings while I was at it...gave it a good cleaning and a waxing and has been shooting like a dream since. Though right now I'm experiencing TOO strong of a couple of shots up the BW and sometimes the CM ramp where I can get random rejects from the sheer velocity, but that should subside when the wax wears down a bit. I just played the LE on location as well today and could tell their flippers were about to start losing strength as I was getting some weak ramp shots.

Yeah, this is my first pin and pretty new to the stuff as well, but thankfully because I had played one already before buying this, kinda new what it was supposed to feel like (would have sucked if the location one was weak as well, then I wouldn't have noticed).

Visually I had two quick things I spotted (thanks again to other people here that pointed it out as well): a bunch of copper/metal dust shavings at the base of the cabinet underneath the flippers, and looking at one of the coil stops, the center part was actually loose and broken off from the bracket. I'll post a video I used as reference when I was looking into it at first. Primarily it was all the shavings inside the cabinet that was the more common indicator, as the left flipper was feeling very sightly sluggish also. But the broken stopper on the right one was the bigger culprit.

Keep in mind, use normal clean shots as reference (cradled or coming from a fed lane). Like for me on the right flipper, I would have a nice centered shot to black widow ramp and at least half the time would not make it all the way up. From what I've read, it's a somewhat common issue with the Stern stoppers, but it's a more problematic issue on layouts like AIQ that really depends on that flipper strength.

The CM fix is a little wall added to the left side of the ramp. Didn't think it would affect it much, but closing up that gap really made some of the shots crisper with much less rejects.

Outside of that, gameplay oriented mods I'm using pinhead's spinner replacement. That's giving an awesome different experience than stock. It's so smooth and looks sleek.

Not on the exact spot, but one on location has a similar snap a couple of months ago. Not sure if they got it welded or replaced but it was fixed. Not sure if a zip tie somewhere could be a good temporary fix

Nice! Since I'm using the carrier, left out the additional bearings....think I might add them in just to see if I can break 1k. Right now I'm topping out at about 800. Its fantastic still!

That Pym building looks soo cool. I've been on the fence as I really like seeing the wireforms as much as possible but that mod is so clean (and the tower+sanctum as well).

I just finished installing the Cliffy's shooter lane protectors and feel like its helped the auto-plunger greatly (installed the outhole drain, ant man scoop, and drop target ones as well). I think i'm at 90% minimum success plunging the full path. I still think I need to clean some of the ramp guides at the exit of the shooter lane as I'm still getting a bit of a wobble, but at that success rate, not fretting too much atm. Now that I'm done with all the performance mods/tweaking, can start playing with the aesthetics. MODS!

also check the disc+ring leveling. If its become off a little, I can see it getting some air as it passes over ring, hit the sanctum (and if the sanctum is angled) give it an upward trajectory

Hmmmm, wondering if someone can recommend, if theres one, a method to properly align the CM wireform ramp. Never had an issue before, but as I took it off to gain access and clean the inside of the Thor MB area and put everything back together, I now get some weird aggressive ejects from the ant-man scoop. About 1 in 4 on average it rides the ant-moon scoop in an uncontrolled fashion, will hit the ramp pretty hard and instead of it riding it down to the inlane, it just bounces into the playfield. I've taken it off and on a couple of times to see if there was something I can wiggle, but as soon as all the screw/washer points are in place, doesnt feel like i can adjust it.

Cool, I'll check that on my next disassembly. When you say "no tension" do you mean that it shouldnt feel like entry into the screw threads feel like they're forced and pulling at the threads? It does/did feel like I have to pull and slightly force the bottom screw point that attaches to the lane. I'll see if theres a different approach of re-inserting it

YUP! that was it. Think it was either already a little tight in those two prongs or from my first bad placement, as the prongs were a bit wide and every time after the first time i looked at it didnt seem like it would fit in there. I slightly bent them inward so they can slide in its place and it fits perfect.

With it being adjusted by a thread turn on the bushing carrier, you should be able to get it close to perfect to alight the disc to the round frame. If need be, you can make a little marker notch so you can know how much you adjusted it every time. I would give it a small turn, then check up top on the pf with a flat edge. I would repeat the process till it's just about perfect (guess super sightly below might be preferred). I would then put a small mark on the carrier and the ring that it's being threaded into, so that when you tighten the bigger ring to lock it, you can move it back in place if it shifts. That for me was the hardest part was to keep it in the same position as i put the last part back on.

There'll be lots of personal preferences, but for my wife and I, we're suckers for the rainbow colors on this. They're circling through the spectrum.

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Yeah, I started with the contact form on their site. From initial contact till receiving the leveling kit and subway tunnel it was under two weeks. Was very pleased with their support process.

Was the part you needed from the walking assembly or the VUK. I think the part you mentioned is for the walking assembly which should control the teeth of it making it through the subway. Launching the balls sounds more VUK than subway, which the retaining bracket is part # 535-5203-03. But if its the walking part, then you might need to get the full assembly from Stern instead.

Depends if you only got the disc or also the carrier. Sterns leveling kit is pretty much just the carrier replacement. So it's either or.

Check how the spinner is pushing down on the switch. Can also see how the switch behaves or responds in the switch test in diags

Avengers has different sweet spots for different people. For me the recommended 6.5 pitch was much better than the close to 7s some use on AIQ. Go too high and the moment the flippers start weakening, you'll have issues up the ramps.

If the disc lays flat, and spins "flat", then the sensor at the bottom tip might be slightly off centered

I just installed them last week, confirming above posts, right shooter lane.

Question for you, on the left one did you have any issues getting it flat across the lip? I adjusted it so many times and still get a small "bubble"

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Yeah, it felt off but after this right lane convo I ended up taking a look at both sides, and I had the right one slightly lower (closer to the front) than the left side. It was mostly at the exit of the protectors where the right side would land on the shooter lane first. I pushed it up a little bit and it feels better.

Man this game is a blast. Almost broke 500m today. 2 Gems collected, the other 3 within 1-2 shots of completion. Couple of weeks ago I was still at barely braking 100-150m while struggling to get a single gem. Baby steps, baby steps.

Wife and I will sometimes play for 1-2hrs at a time and haven't really noticed an issue with the upper flipper. The two main ones are sufficient. Though, I do think I'm nearing the point of coil stop replacement again.

Yeah, time based losing power that's the heating issue. If you still have the stock stops, doesn't hurt to replace them but won't resolve the ~90 minute fade

Post covers the edges of the drill spots, but just a little bit. The sticker covers the whole thing.

A) With how close the holes are to the post, the ball doesnt run over them and wont sink in

B) The cutout you need to make for the sticker in order to screw in the post needs to be big enough so when you tighten it, you dont twist the sticker along with the screw. I had initially just made the hole barely big enough for the screw, and when I tightened it the sticker twisted and dived into the holes a tad. I had to undo it and clean it up to get it flat again.

With the stock equipment, we never hit above 600-700 if everything was aligned properly. When the copper bushings would pop off and the rod would get slightly slanted, the sensor would freak out and register up to 1500. I would then realign the bushing and rod, and would go back to the normal RPM. Either way, not an issue anymore with the mood and everything is smooth like butter

Yeah, it's hard to gauge what part to shave off. I left it as-is and after adjusting the right side to have the same exit length, its been working fine where didnt want to mess with it further. So as far as protection, shouldnt be an issue. It did improve the full plunge problem by a considerable amount. Outside of awesome1 recommendation to use a different coil, I will see what else I can do to reduce the rattle as it leaves the shooter lane to turn it from a 1/6 failure to hopefully close to 100% success. The centering for the auto-plunger should be fine, as I get rattles even with the normal shooting rod. So its probably where the metal ramp is screwed at the wooden part of the lane and/or the flimsy metal guide as it leaves the ramp. Been trying to take slow-mo vids to narrow it down, but my camera is having some issues with it. Not too concerned as the 1/6 failure to full plunge doesnt bother me that much atm.

That's the only drawback. Even if it lands out of the 6oclock position, through the shaker motor and other little vibrations it'll move back to that spot. On the plus side, I've gotten pretty decent at hitting it from the upper flipper. Whenever I need to hit the sanctum, I'll shoot it to the right ramp to feed to it. Long run, with either stock or upgraded spinner, I think the sanctum shots might be more reliable that way (guess unless the post is between 9-12 o'clock)

Interesting. I'll try that lego approach see if changes anything.

Not sure on the exact method it uses (electronics wise), but theres a magnetic sensor at the bottom of the assembly, in which the rod is also magnetic. So when it rotates, I guess the software counts the amount of times it toggles the sensor. It'll grab the first second or so of spins and fit it in the "per minute" math to calculate how many rotations it would have gotten if it maintained its initial velocity throughout a whole minute. For the sake of RPM, thats about it. From then it'll still count rotations while its spinning to tally up score/etc but wont really tie in with the RPM math. The number ends up being a little arbitrary.

Till someone can explain it better, this page has some good briefs and illustrations:

https://www.akm.com/us/en/products/rotary-encoder/angle-sensor/

It does need to be a set distance between the two points.

Too close and/or sightly not angled correctly (not centered and not perpendicular) will register faster hits.....too far and won't register enough.

How high are you getting? I do think 600-800 are healthy averages if everything is perfectly calibrated

yeah, thats really the only thing you can adjust at this point. With both the carrier and the disc upgrade, we hit up to 1100 but stay in the 700-900 range on good days. Only thing I didnt install was the extra bearing insert, since with the carrier it was an optional thing to add. I'm not concerned with RPM's, so havent taken the time to take it apart again to put that in. Mostly what I love about the new equipment is the more rotations we get out of it. My wife can keep her RPM high score of 1500 (she hit that with stock stuff, but both bearings had fallen out of the OG carrier and the disc was flopping all over the place).

I probably should have asked or dug around a bit before adding the ant-rattle tape to the glass, but.....Is it recommended to tape all sides or just the ends? I ended up taping each side and it was a b&%*# to slide the glass back on. Very tight. Mostly asking so if only the ends are really needed I'll remove the side ones.

So in this photo, the bearing popped off and caused the rod to go from slightly to badly slanted. When the rod would slant, the bottom tip would not be centered and perpendicular to the sensor. The sensor would rely on that precision to count correctly. If the magnetic poles end up being funky, it picks up triggers when it shouldnt. At its worst, the whole table would be at rest with the ball cradled, and the disc would be adding to the score and filling up the STRANGE letters.

The other photo was before I adjusted it last month, so the pole is pretty far from the sensor, but shows how its supposed to be centered. Whenever I get under it again I'll check with the calipers and probably close the current gap a little anyway...probably get an extra "oomph" in speed if the current setup is farther than it should.

I think that with the Pros, since it doesnt have that extra mechanism to lift it, they're more commonly configured the same without it falling out of place.

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Bushing. Sorry mind fart on terms. The copper part in the photo.

I'll check for that setting. Was using the default factory installed.

Think mine said pro too. Those are the important parts anyway to level it and should be the same ones across all builds. The carrier was the biggie when people's spinner would slant.

I would try reseating the wireform first if you havent tried that yet. Maybe something was forced into position giving it an off bend somewhere. You mentioned that it started happening after cleaning and waxing, so not sure if anything was disassembled. I know when I made adjustments and did a thorough cleaning, I didnt put a couple of ramps "just right" and it affected random exits/etc. And just spitballing ideas, also check for smoothness of the rail and from within the guide that goes behind the gauntlet. Who knows if a little bit of debris or rough edge could be giving it just the right amount of bump to have it lose its path. Would suck having to bend the wireform, as who knows at where the kink would be causing it.

Since it happens enough times, can you take a video of it falling off? Might be able to get more info that way.

Good thing about that wireform is that its only held together at three spots, so its quick to take off and put back on. Before having your wife record while you play, try seeing if you can feed a ball manually by hand to force it to replicate the issue, or at least to see if its not a smooth ride down the rail.

Crazy how such minor adjustments can make or break some shots/rejects (making the game lose some charisma). I had replaced all the rubbers a couple of days ago and ever since then, most Black Panther shots that fail making it up would hit one of the rubbers/posts on the way back down in such a manner that it would go almost dead center towards the flippers. Made it hard to save from draining. I'm still learning how to nudge, and it made those shots very frustrating. It started getting on my wife's nerves as well. I think even if were comfortable nudging, having that to worry about all the time on incomplete shots would suck still. I loosened that post today to push it a very slight amount towards the playfield and it eliminated the issue completely. Man...like a millimeter or two was all it took to change the experience.

Yeah, if was a big change after 500+ or so plays. Thankfully got it back to normal. I had a similar experience with a Mando pro at an arcade a month ago. Ball exiting the left path/orbit always hit the post and shot it straight down the middle. I hated playing it. I felt punished for normal progression shots of the game. Horrible first experience and thought it was the design of it. Went to another arcade a couple of weeks later and the Mando there didn't have that effect and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Doctor Strange spinning disc leveling with the pf. The guy I was responding to had requested the leveling kit for his premium/LE but the parts he received were labeled for a Pro machine. Its the same kit for any system type.

Nice! Yeah had the same experience with the mind gem, multipliers, MB and super disc the first day of the install. Forgot the amount but had gotten like a 150M super disc from all those smooth spins. My wife hated me for a bit after that. She's still trying to beat it

Since you already replaced the stops and sleeves, I'd say check the alignment to the pin hole and how smooth you can manually move the flipper. If the flipper bushing is busted and/or the part that fastens the flipper pole underneath the playfield is not set at the right distance from the bushing, it could lose some power there.

Here's some info Doug has provided for the cn9

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Power-Type-11.html

Thats freaking awesome. I need to go back and watch some of your vids and learn some stuff. I'm hoping to hit a billion by end of year, but we'll see.

Curious, hows most people's sound quality on the game? Since I got the game, its had some persistent rough artifacts kinda sounding like crackling. With most of the audio its a little subtle but with louder voices and other clips its more apparent. At first I thought it was the speakers and I was going to deal with them at some point later, but when I installed the headphone jack and had a few games off of that, its the exact same. I tried changing some of the random settings but still can't seem to clean it up. Not sure where to look exactly.

Alrighty, wont waste more time fiddling with it =)

Thanks!

Besides the disc level, check that the sanctum target didnt get slightly bent from repeated use. might need to get slightly bent back in if thats the case.

So going stock speakers/woofer I'm guessing you need more than just the harness, right? The harness looks to take in the aux connection and converts it into the pin header. If the current setup has it going wired straight into CN1/CN4, then I need to change that pin header into an aux in order to use the harness. In your batman photo you have an amp, so think thats doing the work there on the conversion. Like...I might just leave as is till I get a bigger fix, as the issue with the headphones on its header is the same as the cn1/4 connection.

Cool, i'll mess around with these options. If I add the amp, might rewire the headphone jack and volume control to fit in as well.

Ok, adjusted my pinside searches and think i found the right info from pinkmunk: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden

It has a god explanation of what I'm hearing too. I'll play with making the harnesses this weekend and see how much of an improvement I can hear. And yeah, its not that the audio is bad, but I "lose" sleep knowing or believing that something could be improved by me, lol. I have very acute hearing (its a curse), so it stands out, more-so with headphones. If after the fixes/options are exhausted still sounds the same, think I can rest easy knowing that its out of my control.

Yup, tried a quick amp and made a rough harness to connect CN5 connection to it along with the speakers.....its gave the speakers more oomph and that was neat and all, but it made the slight crackle more evident in some of those pitches. So yeah looks to be more embedded into either the files or the processing and I'll just leave it alone from there. I'm just nitpicky, but can rest better knowing it looks to be out of what I can fiddle with it for now.

I'll test the harness in a different environment and see if it my connection points. I spliced them accurately, so I believe the harness should be fine but who knows. I had found an existing 7pin molex and just cut the cable and soldered the ends of that and the one going into the amp. I'll order the pinsound just to have on hand for something random later, but wanted to see if I could narrow things down quicker instead of waiting for the cable to come in.

Yeah, worth a shot. I have a spare 32gb still.

It's mostly that disc that's picky on alignment. It's reliant on it being leveled and having proper spacing between the tip and the sensor. That has been one of the bigger PITA from folks in this game, at least from what I've read through this thread. Once it's set just right, it can be pretty reliable. Worst case is if the bushing carrier is having issues keeping the copper bushings in place, it can tilt the spinner and maybe cause the problem you described. It seems that Stern improved the design later in production, as the replacement they had sent me was miles better than the one mine came with.

The flipper issue can't really say it's a problem with AIQ as far as a high maintenance lemon, as that could have been easily from previous owner or at factory assembly... Which could have been any machine, not just game. Main thing that's recommended (once everything is reassembled), is changing the stop coils. The ones Stern use for their machines aren't that durable and this game relies on decent strength to make several of the shots. I had gotten my AIQ at 250-ish plays and one stop had gotten pretty busted and the ramps were almost unmakable. I replaced those early and now at 1.5k plays still running smoothly.

Make sure you dont have something like the disc spinner or a random opto triggering on its own. It sees it as the ball "hitting" that and removes the skill shot since you normally lose that opportunity if you hit a shot prior to the skill shot. When my dr strange disc used to get misaligned, that would sporadically happen to me. As you plunge, look at your score to see if you're getting "ghost" points. If you are, then yeah that would be it.

Mine had that issue on the copper part on both ends. The way yours is moving in that video it looks like its the underside thats fallen off. A "quick" fix is to use some very small amount of super glue on the inside of the copper bushing. Just enough to make contact with the carrier assembly without it spilling over and getting on the disc rod. Several people, me included, had to get a replacement assembly from Stern. It was a lot more leveled as well. So theres that OEM warranty replacement (hopefully still covered), or as an upgrade, 1956PINHEAD sells an aftermarket carrier as well as a new disc assembly if you want to go that route as well. The disc mod has been discussed in the past few pages.

"pulled" you mean you took it off to verify? If you did and the stop looked like it didnt have issues, as awesome1 mentioned, check that the sleeves dont look like a mess or dirty. Can lose some friction. From there next part is the alignment of the flipper that its set with that alignment hole. Lastly that you can rotate the flipper by hand without feeling friction from the flipper bat rubbing up against anything (like the bushing).

Think the insert thats on the path up the tower lights up. I say "think" because I know its there, but never noticed if its on when its active.

those see them like a bingo card...sorta...with the rewards. So at all standup targets up, each non-lit grid space will cycle one at a time till you hit any target. Once you hit any target (doesnt need to match the row its on), it locks in that potential reward and wont cycle to any other till you either drain or complete the three drop targets. If you complete the set, that grid spot stays fully lit then the cycling repeats again. This goes on till you complete a line in any direction. Completing the line will give you a more advanced reward and will reset the bingo card. So if you want to take advantage of one reward in particular, cradle the ball till that reward is blinking and just shoot the general area.

I did the white translucent drop targets with the lights from mezel. My wife was surprised by how much she liked it in person vs when I showed her photos of what was getting purchased. If your wife has the ramp lights as a "must", think the drop targets can fit well in that lighted theme as well.

Visual mods I havent done much outside of that but I'm also going down that route of building out my 3d models for the avengers tower at least. Wanted to give the windows a translucent look. Had just gotten into resin printing a few months ago and love the output on those things. Sanctum building I wasnt sure of what to do. I love Mezel's but also dont want to lose the spotlight over the disc, so trying to decide what to do there.

Considering how much we love the game and its probably going to stick around for a good while, I'm going to slowly draw/build out a complete replacement for the back skyline of the city. I'll get to that project once we hit holiday season for work. Right now only have time for maybe 3-4 side projects.

Oh man, thats where I'm at with the Marvel ramp....lots of the love/hate of this game for me is that one. I can imagine just being the spinner would be a lot quicker and more reliable shots (super more reliable)...but at the same time when you get the loop shot just right, it feels very satisfying.

Or for a quick test to rule out the coil before ordering one, swap the coils among the flippers to see if the issue persists. Kinda narrow down the possible kinks

Most of mine are weak in accuracy as i still kinda suck at precision. I have a printed piece for the fix, but most of my rejects just comes from not hitting it dead center going up the wireform. And if its not a proper feed, I've had frequent shots make it almost halfway up the loop then just return back down. Havent played the Pro but I'm assuming that in comparison its more forgiving in completing the exit.

It has a very unique sound pattern as it travels that path...give me little moments of joy just hearing it.

Heh, yeah has to be. As a stretch of a possibility could be lifetime accrued rpm scores, but that wouldn't make sense.

Also.... What a game we just had. Ball 1 just about everything clicked. Got 4 gems and lost the power to Thanos. With the extra ball got it back and then..... All down hill from there. That streak of shots on the first one though was amazing. Started sweating in the excitement. My wife got caught up in the adrenaline and she did an awesome job as well. Think she beat her personal best.

I wasn't really going to but might get into the insider connected stuff for this one. It's unfortunate that since I play a lot more than her, it's hard for her to get her initials up there. At least this way she can track her progression.

Thats weird, we've had maybe 1k games in the past few months and nothing like that. You can try using threadlocker. Just makes it a little harder to remove later if you need to

Thats an alignment issue between the tip of the spinner rod and the sensor right underneath it. if its slightly angled, the magnet registers as though its movement. Check to see if its either the sensor that looks off or its at the carrier that holds the rod thats misaligned and tilts the whole thing slightly. If its at the carrier, theres different things to look at. Check the copper bushings at the end of it to make sure its solidly in place and not falling off, and also that the housing assembly that holds the carrier at straight 90 degree upgright to the playfield. I guess first check where you think the tilt might be happening and let us know, as theres more specifics on what to adjust according to where the problem stems from.

Slowly...creeping....to...one....billion club.

Heck of a two games this morning. First one hit 430 mil and broke three records that have been stagnant for a while, then the second one hit 632mil with 4 gems and got just GC. Finally got around to giving it a light cleaning as I've been lazy this past month and it made a crazy difference. Had let it slip slowly and really didnt notice the gradual "fade" of speed the game was getting.

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sling ring...dr strange spinner? That one is a common thing. Are the copper bushings loose that keeps the rod in place? If so, an "easy" fix is using a very light amount of super glue to attach it more securely into the carrier. Just make sure not to put too much or that it spills outside of the busing inside ring as it can get on the rod. Long term solution is asking Stern for a replacement carrier. I had that problem and the new carrier they sent me had the copper bushing properly fixed.

Yeah, I feel yah on having to make a lot of adjustments. I had to do the same on mine for the first month, but once everything was adjusted and upgraded, no issues with like 1k games into it now. The big issues with mine was the spinner, subway carrier, and the coil stops+sleeves i had to fix. What other repairs have you had to do to it so far?

Heh, yeah sling is right just rarely see it referenced as that...moreso the physical/mechanical description. Was just making sure. But yeah, check that the top or bottom bushing is fixed on the carrier ends. When it looks to have popped up all of a sudden or if its slanted randomly, thats almost guaranteed the issue. On my first week of ownership I put a very small dot or two of gorilla super glue and pressed it firmly onto the carrier to make sure doesnt adhere slanted. Later on I got a replacement carrier and also the upgraded carrier someone here offers and both of those were more permanent solutions.

Though I think to start binary event it would need to trigger both entrance and exit (sounds right but could be misremembering). Does sound like maybe a software issue if the switches are 100% correct and triggers one event correctly but not the other. You mention 6th shot though the CM shot is the 7th...but do reference after the drop targets so that sounds right.

Theres that too. speed and arm of the switch

awesome1's post is dead on as long the whole thing is equally lifted off the playfield. That adjustment nut will raise/lower it. You do mention unbalanced though, does it look to be lopsided? The other common issue people had with that carrier is the bushings coming loose. If it does, it will not keep the rod upright/perpendicular and you'll see one edge be level with the pf, while the other tilted. This photo was when i had that issue. That bushing problem has been reported on each version of the game, since they all use the same carrier assembly. You can either ask for a replacement from stern, use a slight dab of super glow on the inside ring of the bushing as temporary fix, or get an upgraded mod from here https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1341-precision-pinball-prod/05331-dr-strange-disc-bearing-carrier.

Do check both rings on each end to make sure they're not wiggling about.

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Hmm, so looks like the Titan replacement posts bands/rubbers are a no go. They're so thin and the balls hit them with such strong force that it starts breaking apart the post till it exposes the metal rod underneath.

Just need to decide on the other manufacturers replacements. What have you guys had more success with? The rings for the slingshot and behind the drop targets feel a little weak as well.

Oh, and part of the bigger issue with the posts falling apart from impact is the debris it causes on the pf. More flyballs

Yeah, the original ones are fine in gameplay, was just reducing the black smears and stuff that results in those rubbers.

Ooooo, hadnt seen the cliffys before. Ok, great! Will prob order those from cliffy and the superbands for the other stuff. Slingshots while a little soft been working fine, but the ring behind the drop shots pretty much does nothing. Thanks guys

It's a tough choice that usually is easier to spend time on than getting a mixed bad of opinions. Like for me, from my first ever have in avengers to several months after, I can't get enough of it. Godzilla I enjoy, but it doesn't draw me much in as much as AIQ does.

Godzilla call outs, animations, video, etc are a blast, but for some reason I prefer the gameplay of avengers over Godzilla atm. I'll get more games in on GZ this weekend see if something else clicks for me. I might be a little biased because been a huge comic person since late 80s.

Could be the stop and go, maybe. The parts I enjoy about AIQ which gives me joy are none of those mentioned ones. Subway only happens when starting a mode or collecting a portal lock. But when things click, it can be non stop shot action that keeps feeding to one of the 3 flippers. You have 5 different shots that keeps the ball controlled when you can keep hitting them. 6 if you count the tower, but the speed in which it drops into the upper flipper makes it hard for me to hit two others consistently, so I avoid it unless I want to get a lock in.

A lot of great stuff in the marvel loop, especially when hitting it consistently. Sucks and your prem, hopefully not a long wait

If you get the soul gem, you can replay a lost gem later at the risk of losing the soul one if you fail at the repeat attempt. Second way is the progressed level of the Hawkeye challenge. Lvl1 gives you portal lock, and lvl 2 gives you a gem that you would have lost. And I think theres another way as well, but dont remember. I was playing yesterday, had missed the soul gem, and later on something awarded it to me.

Ah, it was the black order MB that can reward specifically the soul gem if lost.

Ooo, good to know about Thanos attacks... Haven't fully finished that mode before

Ok, so level 3 for Hawkeye. I always skipped the lvl 1 when available so I thought it was just second challenge.

This weekend was bad for me past few games... Can't make many shots. Taking a break

Might be from the subway teeth mech

The couple of games I'lve looked up the new codes for, including this one, seems to be just for Insider Connected for when they end up fulfilling those kits to retrofit the games.

Some distributors started selling pre-orders. Got mine from Flip N Out

https://www.flipnoutpinball.com/product-page/stern-insider-connected-retrofit-kit-for-prem-le-models

https://www.flipnoutpinball.com/product-page/stern-insider-connected-retrofit-kit-for-pro-models

02 had super minor fixes for Battle Royale, but this should work:

https://f002.backblazeb2.com/file/gamecode/avengers_infinity_le-1_02_0.spk

filename says LE, but its the same code for both Prem/LE. Thats from the fileserver stern uses for their downloads.

On the hardware side of things, yeah check whaat Plungerboy mentions.

Along with that, are you getting ball lock registers? or some of the other shots? At least from playing (havent looked at technical specs), I think arc reactor shots dont have to hit the highest opto. Do a switch test with all the optos and that they trigger cleanly and consistently. Play without the glass and roll the ball yourself and see how the game reacts and if theres at least some mag hold if it goes up in a controlled fashion. If it seems like its "trying" to hold the ball but not enough force to grab it fully, then helps narrow down the issue.

Neat! Was this a replacement, or added components + paint to your original one?

So those posts that hold the rubbers have some wiggle as you're tightening them. You can push them in or out slightly and hold it in its location while you re tighten. When I replaced them a couple of months ago I got a fair amount of failed BP shots center drain fairly easily. I mode those posts adjustments and it resolved the problem about 90% of the time. Only if its going at a very specific speed will it be directed towards the center, which doesnt happen often. Its a good thing as a failed BP shot should have a small chance of punishment. Though when I notice it going that speed, I'll give it a slight nudge and that usually takes care of the other 10% of return balls from that path.

Ah! First time making it to final Thanos mode. Along with that, first beat of the game. Was such a weird one because I could not get consistent shots for combos/etc but most of my shots I could recover safely without draining. GC ~840.... So close, just a little more for 1b milestone

There is a setting just for the topper in the game adjustments. It's #57. See if that's enabled

Collecting the gems is across any game you play. It's not character specific, so as long as you collect it, it'll add it to the mode. If by first you mean the far left one, that's the time gem I believe you're missing.