(Topic ID: 277423)

Official Avengers Infinity Quest owners thread. "Pinsiders Assemble!"

By Scribbles

1 year ago

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Topic Stats

  • 8,622 posts
  • 663 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 minutes ago by TheSoftBoiledEgg
  • Topic is favorited by 293 Pinsiders


Topic poll

“Of the Avengers featured on the inserts, who is your favorite?”

  • Hulk 99 votes
  • Iron Man 94 votes
  • Captain America 61 votes
  • Black Widow 38 votes
  • Thor 61 votes
  • Black Panther 25 votes
  • None of those weakling, THANOS! 134 votes

(512 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #816 LE with T-moulding changed to yellow Posted by SKWilson (1 year ago)

Post #1417 Fix for Hawkeye loop not registering Posted by EaglePin (1 year ago)

Post #1797 How to adjust height of spinning disc to prevent airballs Posted by dbb143 (1 year ago)

Post #1847 Rules writeup with link to Stern rule sheet Posted by Bricarus (1 year ago)

Post #1870 Fix for spinning disc not registering hits Posted by WizardsCastle (1 year ago)

Post #1950 TECH: Pic of updated subway mech from Stern to replace broken one Posted by Motorcitypinball (12 months ago)

Post #2056 Fix for ball hangups and habitrail adjustment to stop ball hangup. Posted by hocuslocus (12 months ago)

Post #2125 TECH: Tight glass fix. Posted by MurphyPeoples (12 months ago)

Post #2163 Avengers LE with chrome T-molding Posted by Lermods (12 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7825 65 days ago

Ok, started last week and reading through all the posts here on this topic....at about 110/157 pages currently...

Guess to summarize, looks like my wife and I are both masochists with how people describe the difficulty of this game. Considering we're both new to pinball in general (we've played more over the past month or two than the rest of our lifetimes combined), we had SOOO much fun with AIQ on location that we made it our first pin (and this my first post). We suck so bad at pinball compared to the vast majority of people here on pinside, but every day we get on this machine we're glued to it and seeing a slow steady improvement in skill/score.

We barely have room for this pin, but should change over the next year as we're adding space to the house...and already trying to plan the order of which ones to get (have a HWN on reservation). We tried a JP at the place that has AIQ but for some reason didnt click. Saw on the map there was a DP at a bar somewhere, so need to make an event of it some morning.

Anywho....just thought I'd jump in on the forum and pop the cherry on adding a comment...this game rocks!

2021-08-19 20.28.13 (resized).jpg
#7831 63 days ago

Soooo, I have a question and a half (half because I think I know what the problem is from reading previous posts but just laying it out anyway).

1. I've been adding a some random little mods/upgrades/adjustments to fine tune the system and one of them today was adding Titan flipper standard silicone rubbers (first time using something like this in my limited experience). I get that each type of material and such reacts differently, but wanted to see if the consensus of these silicone type things is that it tends to be...sticky? Like if the ball hits or slides at it from an angle or opposite ball rotation, theres friction that causes it to seem like its kinda braking? I mean, I'm loving how they're making ball catches easier, just the other part of it is kinda jarring initially. Maybe I need to get used to it.

1.5 Now heres the half question. My right flipper had seemed for a while like it was weaker than the left, even from a fresh cold boot. I found the standard evidence as described in previous posts about the coil stops with the shavings at the bottom of the cabinet. I took the stop from the upper flipper which looked like it was in much better condition but still seemed to be a bit weak after moving it to the right one. Even that thud from the flipper activation sounds slightly dull compared to the left one. I did order some stop replacements and also the Tibetan fans (wife and I played for a couple of hours today without a break and definitely noticed it getting worse at the end) which will hopefully get here by end of next week, but if theres anything else anyone can recommend for me to look at while I wait, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

#7834 63 days ago
Quoted from paul_8788:

1) Yes, Titans have a different surface than traditional rubber and will cause the ball to behave differently.
1.5) The flipper is on a metal rod that goes through a plastic bushing. If the bottom of the flipper bat is tight to the top off the bushing you could have issues. Compare to the left and see if there is a difference.

Cool, I'll fiddle with it and see if there's a difference in rigidity. Thanks!

#7903 58 days ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

Any other advice on this? My spinner is not registering hits but sensor appears to be centered and I even tried this fix to be sure. The red light on the board is slow blinking too in attached pics whereas other boards with red lights have a solid red.
Thanks in advance.[quoted image][quoted image]

Cant tell from the angle of the photo, but make sure the tip of the rod is not too close to the sensor. I had that problem once.

Also, thanks to the advice from earlier this week, changed the flipper bushings, coil sleeves and stops, and added some coil fans (why not). Everything is a lot more snippy with a good amount of force. I might revisit some minor adjustments later when i get the cliffy's later as I'm not sure the spacing really required between the bushing, flipper and the piston/arm thing that holds the flipper. But it looks right compared to some things i'm finding online.

The last thing I need to figure out is if I need to replace the motor that controls the lifting/lowering of the spinning disc. I'm getting occasional jams where it doesnt lower all the way. I have to take off the glass and push it down (gave up after the first time where I took it apart and forcibly rotated that part, so just pressed down from the 2nd+ occurance).

#7942 53 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Update as Stern finally reached out:
1) They are sending me the disc leveling service kit
2) They are suggesting that I replace the walking mech for the portal. Before doing that, has anyone had this issue and possibly adjusted the walking mech to fix this. I want to rule out a potential adjustment before going down the route of replacement.

I might need to reach out to them for the walking mech as well. Debating... I think their new tray, or whatever is called, has the middle slit running all the way to the end of the subway which makes it harder for it to get stuck at the lip. Mine on a semi regular basis when the ball shoots into that hole from the playfield, it'll bounce a bit and jump INTO the subway and get stuck there at the lip. I end up just lifting it from the side to have it slide down, but if the new slit eliminates it, I might request it as well.

#8027 47 days ago
Quoted from Williamson:

Thanks everyone for your responses!

I did set the gap after reinstalling the disc assembly, and I had an FS reading in the 400’s in all positions. I had a look, and the proper gap is still there, so I don’t think the magnet is rubbing on the sensor.

I had a look at this washer, and it seems to have plenty of clearance as the disc rotates. I also removed the nut, washer, and clamp, and I still sometimes hear the buzzing when I spin the disc, so it doesn’t seem to be any of those components interfering. It’s almost like the rod itself is buzzing against the brass bushing under the jam nut?

Or, maybe this is what is going on. Just curious; do others with a factory disk hear this “buzzing”/vibration when they hit the disc post with a pinball with the glass off? For an example, see the video in my previous post. If so, maybe this is normal.

Thanks for the suggestion; your mod looks great, and I would consider investing in one even if I get my plastic disc fixed!

I've been fiddling with the spinner disc for a couple of weeks and part of the symptoms are seeming identical to what I was experiencing. The OEM fix is getting the leveling kit replacement. Forgot what its called exactly, bushing carrier? That needs to be replaced (either by stern or 1956pinhead carrier upgrade is a fantastic improvement). My issue was directly related to the copper bushings becoming loose during spin/lift/lowering. The very slight angle of the rod created from not having the bushing in place was causing too much friction and you can hear the metal-on-metal rubbing sound. Also with that friction the lift assembly would get stuck trying to lift the rod. Think when you spin it by hand you create enough force to have it spin "centered" but when hit by the ball getting it to spin from an already compromised position is preventing it to get it started.

A temporary fix if it is the bushing popping off from the carrier is very carefully applying some super glue to the bushing to have it stay in its spot. Either way, check the status of those bushing first.

#8038 45 days ago

Started playing with the browser app yesterday. Also tried out someone's MCU edits/inserts. Fun stuff. Kinda motivated to mess around with what I can come up with as well. Someone mentioned the game was based off the second season of the show? Might be interesting to kinda mix some of the MCU OST with show clips. I'll have to hunker down and watch at least those episodes and see what it has to offer.

#8040 45 days ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Found this thread. I’m excited to try it out. I thought someone was working on updated video and souns though

Yeah, thats the one. Some of the videos were not popping up though =/ . I could see it in the browser but would not play during the game. The one specifically that stood out was the bonus end of ball video. It would still have the image/video loop of whatever i was currently doing when the ball drained.

#8114 41 days ago
Quoted from SharkDiver:

I cant compare it to TMNT as I haven't played it but I find AIQ petty frustrating overall. Its by far my least favourite pin in my collection, also have DP, IMDN, and ACNC. I'm beginning to toy with the idea of selling or trading it. I don't find it to be an overly easy shooter at all, a good percentage of the ramps are always half ramps for me. I do like the placement of the ramps but the balls generally don't make it up for me and almost always go sdtm on the reject. All that said I'm not a great player, average at best, and I'm clearly in the minority on the game so take that into account. I love the theme, love the art package, and I don't even think the callouts are all that bad but between the rules and what I find some pretty difficult shots due to ramps or certain angles the game just hasn't clicked with me. I keep trying and plugging away at it tho hoping it will begin to turn around for me.

Some thoughts on your half ramps, when I got mine I was experiencing similar issues especially with the right flipper. I took a look at the mechanisms, and the coil stops were breaking apart even though it had just gotten a few plays (I'm second owner and previous person didnt play it much). I replaced the stops and sleeves...went ahead and replaced the bushings while I was at it...gave it a good cleaning and a waxing and has been shooting like a dream since. Though right now I'm experiencing TOO strong of a couple of shots up the BW and sometimes the CM ramp where I can get random rejects from the sheer velocity, but that should subside when the wax wears down a bit. I just played the LE on location as well today and could tell their flippers were about to start losing strength as I was getting some weak ramp shots.

#8116 41 days ago
Quoted from SharkDiver:

Thanks for the tip. Would this be something that would be pretty noticeable to the naked eye if I lifted the playfield? I'm very unfamiliar with the all the workings and mechanisms on pins unfortunately but am trying to learn.

Yeah, this is my first pin and pretty new to the stuff as well, but thankfully because I had played one already before buying this, kinda new what it was supposed to feel like (would have sucked if the location one was weak as well, then I wouldn't have noticed).

Visually I had two quick things I spotted (thanks again to other people here that pointed it out as well): a bunch of copper/metal dust shavings at the base of the cabinet underneath the flippers, and looking at one of the coil stops, the center part was actually loose and broken off from the bracket. I'll post a video I used as reference when I was looking into it at first. Primarily it was all the shavings inside the cabinet that was the more common indicator, as the left flipper was feeling very sightly sluggish also. But the broken stopper on the right one was the bigger culprit.

Keep in mind, use normal clean shots as reference (cradled or coming from a fed lane). Like for me on the right flipper, I would have a nice centered shot to black widow ramp and at least half the time would not make it all the way up. From what I've read, it's a somewhat common issue with the Stern stoppers, but it's a more problematic issue on layouts like AIQ that really depends on that flipper strength.

#8118 41 days ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Hey what is this fix? Thanks
Any other recommendations of mods for better game play. I have a AIQ Prem coming. Thanks everyone!

The CM fix is a little wall added to the left side of the ramp. Didn't think it would affect it much, but closing up that gap really made some of the shots crisper with much less rejects.

Outside of that, gameplay oriented mods I'm using pinhead's spinner replacement. That's giving an awesome different experience than stock. It's so smooth and looks sleek.

#8124 41 days ago
Quoted from hugewizard:

Anyone seen this before? Welds on the right return (captain marvel + scoop) just separated out of nowhere.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Not on the exact spot, but one on location has a similar snap a couple of months ago. Not sure if they got it welded or replaced but it was fixed. Not sure if a zip tie somewhere could be a good temporary fix

#8135 40 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Just installed 1956PINHEAD Dr. Strange Disc Mod.
A quick review- It's an excellent product. Instructions were a little daunting for a noob like me, but 1956pinhead was great at helping me out. And I set a new RPM record so that makes it all good. [quoted image]

Nice! Since I'm using the carrier, left out the additional bearings....think I might add them in just to see if I can break 1k. Right now I'm topping out at about 800. Its fantastic still!

Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I swore no mods on my game
I broke down and got the ant man mod after seeing the CM ramp fix
It’s sick
Looking at the tower mod and the tuna can for Dr strange from pin monk and the disk from pinhead
After Batman 66 I swore no more mods
[quoted image]

That Pym building looks soo cool. I've been on the fence as I really like seeing the wireforms as much as possible but that mod is so clean (and the tower+sanctum as well).

I just finished installing the Cliffy's shooter lane protectors and feel like its helped the auto-plunger greatly (installed the outhole drain, ant man scoop, and drop target ones as well). I think i'm at 90% minimum success plunging the full path. I still think I need to clean some of the ramp guides at the exit of the shooter lane as I'm still getting a bit of a wobble, but at that success rate, not fretting too much atm. Now that I'm done with all the performance mods/tweaking, can start playing with the aesthetics. MODS!

#8165 39 days ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

So maybe the mod wouldn’t help then. I just need to check the actual target.

also check the disc+ring leveling. If its become off a little, I can see it getting some air as it passes over ring, hit the sanctum (and if the sanctum is angled) give it an upward trajectory

#8166 38 days ago

Hmmmm, wondering if someone can recommend, if theres one, a method to properly align the CM wireform ramp. Never had an issue before, but as I took it off to gain access and clean the inside of the Thor MB area and put everything back together, I now get some weird aggressive ejects from the ant-man scoop. About 1 in 4 on average it rides the ant-moon scoop in an uncontrolled fashion, will hit the ramp pretty hard and instead of it riding it down to the inlane, it just bounces into the playfield. I've taken it off and on a couple of times to see if there was something I can wiggle, but as soon as all the screw/washer points are in place, doesnt feel like i can adjust it.

#8168 38 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Make sure the (2) prongs are properly inserted at Ant Man and the back of the CM ramp. At Ant Man they can ride on the ledge and create what you describe... they should insert down below. After that, make sure no tension and slowly tighten all of the mounts.
If you have the CM Lexan fix and/or 3D printed fix and still get rejects, move the wireform mount position at the front left of CM ramp until no more rejects.

Cool, I'll check that on my next disassembly. When you say "no tension" do you mean that it shouldnt feel like entry into the screw threads feel like they're forced and pulling at the threads? It does/did feel like I have to pull and slightly force the bottom screw point that attaches to the lane. I'll see if theres a different approach of re-inserting it

#8170 38 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Yeah, I'm almost certain you have the wireform prongs sitting on the ledge at Ant Man. I did that once and ran into similar issues and it was difficult to get the end of the wireform by the inlane in place.

YUP! that was it. Think it was either already a little tight in those two prongs or from my first bad placement, as the prongs were a bit wide and every time after the first time i looked at it didnt seem like it would fit in there. I slightly bent them inward so they can slide in its place and it fits perfect.

#8183 37 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

For those that have attempted to level the Dr Strange Disc, when I do it it's either just slightly higher than the pf or slightly lower.
If I had to choose between the two, is it better to have it slightly more sunken?

With it being adjusted by a thread turn on the bushing carrier, you should be able to get it close to perfect to alight the disc to the round frame. If need be, you can make a little marker notch so you can know how much you adjusted it every time. I would give it a small turn, then check up top on the pf with a flat edge. I would repeat the process till it's just about perfect (guess super sightly below might be preferred). I would then put a small mark on the carrier and the ring that it's being threaded into, so that when you tighten the bigger ring to lock it, you can move it back in place if it shifts. That for me was the hardest part was to keep it in the same position as i put the last part back on.

#8190 37 days ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

What re the speaker light color of choice for AIQ..single color or multi-colored look best?

There'll be lots of personal preferences, but for my wife and I, we're suckers for the rainbow colors on this. They're circling through the spectrum.

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#8207 35 days ago

Yeah, I started with the contact form on their site. From initial contact till receiving the leveling kit and subway tunnel it was under two weeks. Was very pleased with their support process.

Quoted from Crowbass:

Looking for some help on the coil for the subway. Last night it wouldn't launch balls out of the subway, so i opened it up and the coil was just hanging. It looks like the coil stop loosened and the sleeve dropped out. i've ordered a new coil, but am having trouble finding the coil stop. I have the part number from -the manual #535-2377-00, but can't find one that looks exactly like the one that's in there. Where is everyone's go to spot for pinball parts?

Was the part you needed from the walking assembly or the VUK. I think the part you mentioned is for the walking assembly which should control the teeth of it making it through the subway. Launching the balls sounds more VUK than subway, which the retaining bracket is part # 535-5203-03. But if its the walking part, then you might need to get the full assembly from Stern instead.

#8224 34 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Perfect - thanks - ordered!
BTW - do you still need th Stern fix with this kit?

Depends if you only got the disc or also the carrier. Sterns leveling kit is pretty much just the carrier replacement. So it's either or.

Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:

Picked up a premium last week and am really enjoying learning the game. The only thing that feels weird is it seems like my hulk spinner is undercounting. I will get a great shot and absolutely rip the spinner but I may only get like 8 spins registered. I don’t think I’ve ever had a shot register more than 10. Anyone know what might be a good way to troubleshoot?

Check how the spinner is pushing down on the switch. Can also see how the switch behaves or responds in the switch test in diags

#8268 31 days ago
Quoted from starbase:

Good call, I have IM all the way up in the back just was not sure about Avengers. Going to do that ASAP.
Thank you for the tips on the ramp/habitrail. Help like this is why I remember really enjoying this forum in the past.

Avengers has different sweet spots for different people. For me the recommended 6.5 pitch was much better than the close to 7s some use on AIQ. Go too high and the moment the flippers start weakening, you'll have issues up the ramps.

#8280 30 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I'd have to check. It isn't mine, it's the one on location at league. It looks flat and level with the playfield though.

If the disc lays flat, and spins "flat", then the sensor at the bottom tip might be slightly off centered

#8288 30 days ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Anyone can tell me where this Cliffy goes!
[quoted image]

I just installed them last week, confirming above posts, right shooter lane.

Question for you, on the left one did you have any issues getting it flat across the lip? I adjusted it so many times and still get a small "bubble"

PXL_20210924_004036517.MP (resized).jpg
#8297 29 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I think it's fine. I adjusted the fitment on mine a couple times as well, but as long as not interfering with anything it should be good and is protecting the wood.

Yeah, it felt off but after this right lane convo I ended up taking a look at both sides, and I had the right one slightly lower (closer to the front) than the left side. It was mostly at the exit of the protectors where the right side would land on the shooter lane first. I pushed it up a little bit and it feels better.

Man this game is a blast. Almost broke 500m today. 2 Gems collected, the other 3 within 1-2 shots of completion. Couple of weeks ago I was still at barely braking 100-150m while struggling to get a single gem. Baby steps, baby steps.

#8309 28 days ago
Quoted from T3quila:

Mine are arriving on Monday. Did you get the add on for the upper flipper? I didn't and now hoping i won't regret that decision...

Wife and I will sometimes play for 1-2hrs at a time and haven't really noticed an issue with the upper flipper. The two main ones are sufficient. Though, I do think I'm nearing the point of coil stop replacement again.

#8316 28 days ago
Quoted from T3quila:

Ya, when i turn the machine on the balls scream up the ramps, but after like 90 minutes it gets really noticable, you have to make super clean shots to get them up.
I'll look at the coil stops and sleeves this week. I have read here to not get the ones from Stern but older Williams ones because they are sturdier, but i wouldn't know the part numbers for those.
Any ideas?

Yeah, time based losing power that's the heating issue. If you still have the stock stops, doesn't hurt to replace them but won't resolve the ~90 minute fade

#8337 26 days ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

Doesn't the post on the spinner cover those holes? Looks like it could. Hard to say exactly from picture in above post.

Post covers the edges of the drill spots, but just a little bit. The sticker covers the whole thing.

A) With how close the holes are to the post, the ball doesnt run over them and wont sink in

B) The cutout you need to make for the sticker in order to screw in the post needs to be big enough so when you tighten it, you dont twist the sticker along with the screw. I had initially just made the hole barely big enough for the screw, and when I tightened it the sticker twisted and dived into the holes a tad. I had to undo it and clean it up to get it flat again.

#8340 26 days ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Cool, thanks for the clarification. I'm thinking about this, my spins have only been in the 500-600 RPM range for a few weeks now when a few months ago they were in the 1000-1200 RPM range.

With the stock equipment, we never hit above 600-700 if everything was aligned properly. When the copper bushings would pop off and the rod would get slightly slanted, the sensor would freak out and register up to 1500. I would then realign the bushing and rod, and would go back to the normal RPM. Either way, not an issue anymore with the mood and everything is smooth like butter

#8346 25 days ago
Quoted from insight75:

Glad you posted this. Mine looks the same. I'm wondering if the playfield changed not allowing it to fit the routed holes properly. I was almost tempted to remove a little material from the cliffy to make this fit better.

Yeah, it's hard to gauge what part to shave off. I left it as-is and after adjusting the right side to have the same exit length, its been working fine where didnt want to mess with it further. So as far as protection, shouldnt be an issue. It did improve the full plunge problem by a considerable amount. Outside of awesome1 recommendation to use a different coil, I will see what else I can do to reduce the rattle as it leaves the shooter lane to turn it from a 1/6 failure to hopefully close to 100% success. The centering for the auto-plunger should be fine, as I get rattles even with the normal shooting rod. So its probably where the metal ramp is screwed at the wooden part of the lane and/or the flimsy metal guide as it leaves the ramp. Been trying to take slow-mo vids to narrow it down, but my camera is having some issues with it. Not too concerned as the 1/6 failure to full plunge doesnt bother me that much atm.

#8348 25 days ago
Quoted from roar:

I like the looks of this mod, looks really well fabricated which is cool... but I'm not sure I want more spins on the disc... that thing gets in the way already, more spins will just make it harder to hit that darn sanctum target .
Curious, with less friction on the disc, is it possible the post is resting in the 6 o'clock position (If 12 is the sanctum target) more frequently as the pitch of the playfield would lend the disc to wanting to fall to the 6 o'clock position because of gravity I'm thinking. I really do depend on that post to stop out of the path of the sanctum target from time to time.

That's the only drawback. Even if it lands out of the 6oclock position, through the shaker motor and other little vibrations it'll move back to that spot. On the plus side, I've gotten pretty decent at hitting it from the upper flipper. Whenever I need to hit the sanctum, I'll shoot it to the right ramp to feed to it. Long run, with either stock or upgraded spinner, I think the sanctum shots might be more reliable that way (guess unless the post is between 9-12 o'clock)

#8352 25 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

On mine when I first got it the ball had a tendency to veer left as it went across the shooter lane metal ramp. As you said, that shooter lane metal ramp is very flimsy and it seems to have a lot of bounce and wobble to it, and it isn't supported much at all underneath it. I propped a Lego brick with a cabinet dot/bumper on top of it underneath the left side in the middle of the ramp to counter the movement of the ball and it's worked great ever since. Made it so the ramp wasn't tilting that way anymore.
Here's a post that has a picture of where I put the brick/bumper stack under the shooter lane:

Interesting. I'll try that lego approach see if changes anything.

#8356 25 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Pardon my ignorance.
Can someone please explain how RPMs are calculated on Dr. Strange? How does the machine know how many rotations?
I understand how it counts the rotations on a spinner like the Hulk. But I don't quite understand how it does it on the Dr. Strange disc.

Not sure on the exact method it uses (electronics wise), but theres a magnetic sensor at the bottom of the assembly, in which the rod is also magnetic. So when it rotates, I guess the software counts the amount of times it toggles the sensor. It'll grab the first second or so of spins and fit it in the "per minute" math to calculate how many rotations it would have gotten if it maintained its initial velocity throughout a whole minute. For the sake of RPM, thats about it. From then it'll still count rotations while its spinning to tally up score/etc but wont really tie in with the RPM math. The number ends up being a little arbitrary.

#8359 25 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Thanks for the info.
I guess I am more curious on the electronic part of the process. How does the magnetic sensor count the spinning? I am hoping someone way smarter than me can dumb it down and explain it.

Till someone can explain it better, this page has some good briefs and illustrations:


#8363 25 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Very informative. I am trying to see if I can make any adjustments to it. I feel like I am ripping that disc and my RPMs aren't as high as I would have imagined.

It does need to be a set distance between the two points.

Too close and/or sightly not angled correctly (not centered and not perpendicular) will register faster hits.....too far and won't register enough.

How high are you getting? I do think 600-800 are healthy averages if everything is perfectly calibrated

#8365 25 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

I am in the 500 to 600s. When I first installed the Dr Strange mod, I got up to 1300s. I assumed that would be a common occurrence. But in 20 games or so games since, I have yet to break 800.
Perhaps the sensor is too close. I heard that it needs to be a credit card thickness distance between sensor and bottom of rod. Mine is pretty close.

yeah, thats really the only thing you can adjust at this point. With both the carrier and the disc upgrade, we hit up to 1100 but stay in the 700-900 range on good days. Only thing I didnt install was the extra bearing insert, since with the carrier it was an optional thing to add. I'm not concerned with RPM's, so havent taken the time to take it apart again to put that in. Mostly what I love about the new equipment is the more rotations we get out of it. My wife can keep her RPM high score of 1500 (she hit that with stock stuff, but both bearings had fallen out of the OG carrier and the disc was flopping all over the place).

#8374 25 days ago

I probably should have asked or dug around a bit before adding the ant-rattle tape to the glass, but.....Is it recommended to tape all sides or just the ends? I ended up taping each side and it was a b&%*# to slide the glass back on. Very tight. Mostly asking so if only the ends are really needed I'll remove the side ones.

#8379 25 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

can you elaborate on that a bit more? I noticed ours was registering 1200+ where our pro used to top out at like 600ish. I thought maybe it was a premium vs pro difference, but your description fits. Can you elaborate on what you saw?

So in this photo, the bearing popped off and caused the rod to go from slightly to badly slanted. When the rod would slant, the bottom tip would not be centered and perpendicular to the sensor. The sensor would rely on that precision to count correctly. If the magnetic poles end up being funky, it picks up triggers when it shouldnt. At its worst, the whole table would be at rest with the ball cradled, and the disc would be adding to the score and filling up the STRANGE letters.

The other photo was before I adjusted it last month, so the pole is pretty far from the sensor, but shows how its supposed to be centered. Whenever I get under it again I'll check with the calipers and probably close the current gap a little anyway...probably get an extra "oomph" in speed if the current setup is farther than it should.

I think that with the Pros, since it doesnt have that extra mechanism to lift it, they're more commonly configured the same without it falling out of place.

2021-08-31 14.51.48 (1) (resized).jpg2021-08-31 16.16.30 (1) (resized).jpg
#8384 24 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Thanks, but I'm still struggling to understand what you are talking about with " the bearing popped off" - there is no bearing in the assembly so I'm not understanding what you are saying was out of place.

Bushing. Sorry mind fart on terms. The copper part in the photo.

#8385 24 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Are you guys also checking/adjusting the field strength in the Disc test menu according to Stern's recommendations?

I'll check for that setting. Was using the default factory installed.

#8397 24 days ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Did I get the wrong kit to fix the level of my spinning disc? I have a premium and they sent me a kit for the pro. That’s confusing too, because the pro disc doesn’t even raise. I guess pro owners are having disc level issues too?
[quoted image]

Think mine said pro too. Those are the important parts anyway to level it and should be the same ones across all builds. The carrier was the biggie when people's spinner would slant.

#8405 23 days ago
Quoted from T3quila:

So, I raised the machine but I still have quite a lot of drop offs from the rail after the Gauntlet ramp that feeds the upper flipper. Seems like super clean shots with high speed are more prone to fall off the wire form.
Also the feed from to the upper flipper if it makes it all the way has gotten worse and half the time it doesn't drop and just roll to the upper flipper but hits something and moves out to the right almost out of reach of the upper flipper.
Not sure if is to close to the left and hitting that or if it hits that little one way gate on the entrance to the tower shot on the right.
Kinda mortified bending stuff around cause I don't want any of the weld points to pop.
Any insight or ideas?

I would try reseating the wireform first if you havent tried that yet. Maybe something was forced into position giving it an off bend somewhere. You mentioned that it started happening after cleaning and waxing, so not sure if anything was disassembled. I know when I made adjustments and did a thorough cleaning, I didnt put a couple of ramps "just right" and it affected random exits/etc. And just spitballing ideas, also check for smoothness of the rail and from within the guide that goes behind the gauntlet. Who knows if a little bit of debris or rough edge could be giving it just the right amount of bump to have it lose its path. Would suck having to bend the wireform, as who knows at where the kink would be causing it.

Since it happens enough times, can you take a video of it falling off? Might be able to get more info that way.

#8408 23 days ago
Quoted from T3quila:

I just looked closer at it again, and I think you are right that it is too close to the ball guide - I probably moved it just a tad while cleaning, I didn't take anything off. I still am afraid that I'll end up with a pretty box of parts instead of a pinball machine when I start taking pieces off the top. I'll adjust it on Sunday and try to take some videos.
Regarding the wire form itself, it seems when it's slow it works just fine, I think I have to take a video of it as well and see where it drops off.
The misses will be thrilled to hold the phone and filming while I play
Thank you Sleal16 and EaglePin , I appreciate the help!

Good thing about that wireform is that its only held together at three spots, so its quick to take off and put back on. Before having your wife record while you play, try seeing if you can feed a ball manually by hand to force it to replicate the issue, or at least to see if its not a smooth ride down the rail.

#8412 22 days ago

Crazy how such minor adjustments can make or break some shots/rejects (making the game lose some charisma). I had replaced all the rubbers a couple of days ago and ever since then, most Black Panther shots that fail making it up would hit one of the rubbers/posts on the way back down in such a manner that it would go almost dead center towards the flippers. Made it hard to save from draining. I'm still learning how to nudge, and it made those shots very frustrating. It started getting on my wife's nerves as well. I think even if were comfortable nudging, having that to worry about all the time on incomplete shots would suck still. I loosened that post today to push it a very slight amount towards the playfield and it eliminated the issue completely. Man...like a millimeter or two was all it took to change the experience.

#8414 22 days ago
Quoted from AiriusTorpora:

Very common for a larger rubber to make a ball rolling down the side that did not make it up the black panther ramp to go straight down the middle. You pretty much need to adjust the rubber so a ball just rolling under gravity doesn't skip off it, or just git gud at the nudge. it is not part of the actual play of the machine that missed shot is supposed to punish you. Some are, but that one is not.

Yeah, if was a big change after 500+ or so plays. Thankfully got it back to normal. I had a similar experience with a Mando pro at an arcade a month ago. Ball exiting the left path/orbit always hit the post and shot it straight down the middle. I hated playing it. I felt punished for normal progression shots of the game. Horrible first experience and thought it was the design of it. Went to another arcade a couple of weeks later and the Mando there didn't have that effect and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

#8424 21 days ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

What is the issue the pro is having?

Doctor Strange spinning disc leveling with the pf. The guy I was responding to had requested the leveling kit for his premium/LE but the parts he received were labeled for a Pro machine. Its the same kit for any system type.

#8438 20 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

holy moly. This metal disc is the nuts!!!!
[quoted image]
will add a clip tomorrow!

Nice! Yeah had the same experience with the mind gem, multipliers, MB and super disc the first day of the install. Forgot the amount but had gotten like a 150M super disc from all those smooth spins. My wife hated me for a bit after that. She's still trying to beat it

#8446 19 days ago
Quoted from Yodamtu44:

Good point, forgot to mention. Both right/left flipper power is 255
Total plays: 378
Left flips: 36,404
Right flips: 34,995

Since you already replaced the stops and sleeves, I'd say check the alignment to the pin hole and how smooth you can manually move the flipper. If the flipper bushing is busted and/or the part that fastens the flipper pole underneath the playfield is not set at the right distance from the bushing, it could lose some power there.

#8449 19 days ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Has anyone bought and installed the Mezel Mods Speaker light kit? I couldn’t find the instillation instructions so I found something similar on YouTube. It says to connect the power to CN9 but there’s something plugged in that already….any advice? Do I unplug what there and plug in speaker power supply?

Here's some info Doug has provided for the cn9


#8455 19 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

After defeating Thanos - I was able to keep it going! New record on Super Victory Laps and third game over 4 Billion!
[quoted image]

Thats freaking awesome. I need to go back and watch some of your vids and learn some stuff. I'm hoping to hit a billion by end of year, but we'll see.

#8459 18 days ago

Curious, hows most people's sound quality on the game? Since I got the game, its had some persistent rough artifacts kinda sounding like crackling. With most of the audio its a little subtle but with louder voices and other clips its more apparent. At first I thought it was the speakers and I was going to deal with them at some point later, but when I installed the headphone jack and had a few games off of that, its the exact same. I tried changing some of the random settings but still can't seem to clean it up. Not sure where to look exactly.

#8462 18 days ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Yeah, me and a couple other Pinsiders have this same issue. I upgraded my speakers to Pinwoofers and I still get the "crackling" sound... Seems to be just a flaw in the game. They might address it with the new code that includes insider connected but who knows.

Alrighty, wont waste more time fiddling with it =)


#8468 16 days ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

My game recently started getting massive airballs when hitting the sanctum target. Sometimes even hitting the flasher right above it or banging on the ramps. Looking thru the thread I see this happens quite a bit but I didn't see a long term solution to it. Has anyone found one? I have checked the disk is level. Thanks

Besides the disc level, check that the sanctum target didnt get slightly bent from repeated use. might need to get slightly bent back in if thats the case.

#8484 16 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Would love Stern to remaster the sound on AIQ, but I no longer have the noise issues by using the following direct Spike 2 connections, instead of using the stock in-line sound connection. But agree the cracking noises etc shouldn’t be there on the regular inline system using CN1 & CN4. Stern should remaster the sound so you don’t have to use CN5 for a direct connection.
But just added new wiring harness from Pinsound directly connected to my Spike 2 board and must say, the sound has come alive to the next level. So much better than when the sound went inline through CN1 & CN4 regular connection. Which sounded muddy and muffled somewhat by comparison to a Spike 2 direct CN5 board 7 pin connection splitting the back box speakers and the subwoofer directly amplified through separate amplifiers. Now that AIQ sound track is quite good! dinot gave me the idea. Cracking noises etc now gone.
This is a photo of the same setup on my Batman, which I did exactly the same on AIQ. You can see the wiring harness coming off Spike 2 direct connection CN5. I was going to make the wiring harness myself, but then learned Pinsound already makes them, so ordered a set for every machine and wow, the sound is amazing now! Can hear sounds not really distinguishable before.
[quoted image]

So going stock speakers/woofer I'm guessing you need more than just the harness, right? The harness looks to take in the aux connection and converts it into the pin header. If the current setup has it going wired straight into CN1/CN4, then I need to change that pin header into an aux in order to use the harness. In your batman photo you have an amp, so think thats doing the work there on the conversion. Like...I might just leave as is till I get a bigger fix, as the issue with the headphones on its header is the same as the cn1/4 connection.

#8488 15 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

The harness has two output 3.5mm female connections. One for back box speakers and one for the Subwoofer. You may plug into the harness any amp you wish. There’s a good option $89 amp on Amazon.
Spike 2 direct sound connection is worth the effort, because the sound upgrade is so much audibly better it’s not even close. My TMNT has a range of sounds that came alive with the direct connection. Batman’s flat mono track, made a 180 sound wise. AIQ leaps over the regular connection. Unfortunate that Stern provides, but does not use the CN5 connection they put on the board.

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Use the pinnovators spike 2 adapter. Used them on all my stern spike 2 games so far. Works awesome and only $35 plus shipping.

Cool, i'll mess around with these options. If I add the amp, might rewire the headphone jack and volume control to fit in as well.

#8491 14 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Thunderbird it looks like you are running a new amp and not just the cable, right? What amp are you using to power the speakers now?
I'm sure Stern is using the same preamp line out signal from C5 as they are for their own amplifiers, including headphone. This would imply the Stern amp is creating the poor sound quality.
Upgrading to a Pinsound plus on my Twilight Zone was a huge upgrade. I haven't looked into something similar for Spike 2 Sterns yet. I have upgraded speakers and external sub on all my pins as well. The sound quality on my AIQ and Deadpool isn't bad actually...

Ok, adjusted my pinside searches and think i found the right info from pinkmunk: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden

It has a god explanation of what I'm hearing too. I'll play with making the harnesses this weekend and see how much of an improvement I can hear. And yeah, its not that the audio is bad, but I "lose" sleep knowing or believing that something could be improved by me, lol. I have very acute hearing (its a curse), so it stands out, more-so with headphones. If after the fixes/options are exhausted still sounds the same, think I can rest easy knowing that its out of my control.

#8500 13 days ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Ok, adjusted my pinside searches and think i found the right info from pinkmunk: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden
It has a god explanation of what I'm hearing too. I'll play with making the harnesses this weekend and see how much of an improvement I can hear. And yeah, its not that the audio is bad, but I "lose" sleep knowing or believing that something could be improved by me, lol. I have very acute hearing (its a curse), so it stands out, more-so with headphones. If after the fixes/options are exhausted still sounds the same, think I can rest easy knowing that its out of my control.

Yup, tried a quick amp and made a rough harness to connect CN5 connection to it along with the speakers.....its gave the speakers more oomph and that was neat and all, but it made the slight crackle more evident in some of those pitches. So yeah looks to be more embedded into either the files or the processing and I'll just leave it alone from there. I'm just nitpicky, but can rest better knowing it looks to be out of what I can fiddle with it for now.

#8504 13 days ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

That’s strange, because when I did it, it took it away completely. Wonder if you got the pin order connections correctly? That tiny wire is hard to affix into the tiny 7 pin molex connector correctly. That’s why I just ordered it from Pinsound, instead of doing it myself.

I'll test the harness in a different environment and see if it my connection points. I spliced them accurately, so I believe the harness should be fine but who knows. I had found an existing 7pin molex and just cut the cable and soldered the ends of that and the one going into the amp. I'll order the pinsound just to have on hand for something random later, but wanted to see if I could narrow things down quicker instead of waiting for the cable to come in.

Quoted from awesome1:

It wouldn't hurt to try a fresh full firmware download on a new SD card.

Yeah, worth a shot. I have a spare 32gb still.

#8506 13 days ago
Quoted from Lokust:

Hello fellow Pinvengers - I joined this club on Friday with a Premium with only 101 plays on it. Unfortunately it feels like a bit of a high maintenance lemon so far. Early today the left flipper stuck and when I inspected I found that the whole linkage was no longer connected, checked in the cab and the bolt had fallen right out of it, so that was a WTF moment and a fun time getting it reassembled and tightened. Then tonight after I got home the spinner completely stopped registering spins - no movement shows up on the test at all, though the sensor board is still blinking and the raise/lower motor is working. I'm going to have to dig into it more tomorrow, but kinda frustrated. I did not see a key post about that specific issue with the spinner - has anyone run into it not seeing movement in the spinner at all?

It's mostly that disc that's picky on alignment. It's reliant on it being leveled and having proper spacing between the tip and the sensor. That has been one of the bigger PITA from folks in this game, at least from what I've read through this thread. Once it's set just right, it can be pretty reliable. Worst case is if the bushing carrier is having issues keeping the copper bushings in place, it can tilt the spinner and maybe cause the problem you described. It seems that Stern improved the design later in production, as the replacement they had sent me was miles better than the one mine came with.

The flipper issue can't really say it's a problem with AIQ as far as a high maintenance lemon, as that could have been easily from previous owner or at factory assembly... Which could have been any machine, not just game. Main thing that's recommended (once everything is reassembled), is changing the stop coils. The ones Stern use for their machines aren't that durable and this game relies on decent strength to make several of the shots. I had gotten my AIQ at 250-ish plays and one stop had gotten pretty busted and the ramps were almost unmakable. I replaced those early and now at 1.5k plays still running smoothly.

#8541 10 days ago
Quoted from Hoteldrummer:

Question, maybe I'm losing my mind but I'm hoping not. The skillshot up the tower which is the Antman skillshot that starts at a million and goes up 500k with each make moving forward and also adds 5 to 10 seconds of ball save time etc, isn't there anymore? It just disappeared? I even did a factory restore in the hopes I would get it back, but nope, its gone? Now when I hit the tower off the plunge it just gives the arc reactor and then each shot beyond that is just a ball lock for Iron Man multi ball. Its like the Antman skillshot never existed? Any help would be awesome as I'm going slightly mad

Make sure you dont have something like the disc spinner or a random opto triggering on its own. It sees it as the ball "hitting" that and removes the skill shot since you normally lose that opportunity if you hit a shot prior to the skill shot. When my dr strange disc used to get misaligned, that would sporadically happen to me. As you plunge, look at your score to see if you're getting "ghost" points. If you are, then yeah that would be it.

#8563 6 days ago
Quoted from berki089:

Maybe this has been discussed before but I couldn't find anything: I own the Avenegers AIQ Premium and my Strange Disk is a bit loose in this little brass ring. Actually I can move it a bit in all directions and during the game it is not flush with the playfield but bending down to the bottom. I recorded a little video to show you what I mean.
Do you have the same with your machines or is this something I have to fix? I see airballs sometimes as the disk acts like a little ramp this way.


Mine had that issue on the copper part on both ends. The way yours is moving in that video it looks like its the underside thats fallen off. A "quick" fix is to use some very small amount of super glue on the inside of the copper bushing. Just enough to make contact with the carrier assembly without it spilling over and getting on the disc rod. Several people, me included, had to get a replacement assembly from Stern. It was a lot more leveled as well. So theres that OEM warranty replacement (hopefully still covered), or as an upgrade, 1956PINHEAD sells an aftermarket carrier as well as a new disc assembly if you want to go that route as well. The disc mod has been discussed in the past few pages.

#8578 4 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Flipper power is at the max of 255 which appears to be the factory default. It happens right from the first game so I don’t suspect it’s heat related.
I pulled the coil stop and it’s rock solid.

Thanks for checking. I’m going to try and setup a camera on it and find out why it’s rattling around in there. Or maybe I just suck at pinball.

"pulled" you mean you took it off to verify? If you did and the stop looked like it didnt have issues, as awesome1 mentioned, check that the sleeves dont look like a mess or dirty. Can lose some friction. From there next part is the alignment of the flipper that its set with that alignment hole. Lastly that you can rotate the flipper by hand without feeling friction from the flipper bat rubbing up against anything (like the bushing).

#8581 4 days ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I feel stupid for asking, but is there an indication on the playfield that Hawkeye challenge has been qualified?
Also, is there a way to tell which super modes have been played? My understanding is that playing them all will award you a MB, but I don’t see how you can tell what you have played.

Quoted from T3quila:

I think the super modes you can see on one of the info screens when you trap the ball. Hawkeye on the play field i don't know.

Think the insert thats on the path up the tower lights up. I say "think" because I know its there, but never noticed if its on when its active.

#8584 4 days ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Thanks. The grid rules are still confusing to me so trying to sort it out.

those see them like a bingo card...sorta...with the rewards. So at all standup targets up, each non-lit grid space will cycle one at a time till you hit any target. Once you hit any target (doesnt need to match the row its on), it locks in that potential reward and wont cycle to any other till you either drain or complete the three drop targets. If you complete the set, that grid spot stays fully lit then the cycling repeats again. This goes on till you complete a line in any direction. Completing the line will give you a more advanced reward and will reset the bingo card. So if you want to take advantage of one reward in particular, cradle the ball till that reward is blinking and just shoot the general area.

#8605 3 days ago
Quoted from petrieslastword:

Hey everyone,
First new Stern Pin qith an AIQ Pro (not quote ready for the Premium investment, that'll be our Deadpool next) and looking to see what the best recommended mods are. Right now we're looking to add
The Thor's Hammer that lights up when multi-ball is active:
The lightup Captain America Shield:
As well as Iron Man:
And these ramp lights are a "must have" for my wife:
Considering the Sanctum and Avengers Tower upgrades, but they are pricey, and considering attempting our own 3D print on those instead. Has anyone gone thagt route? Any other mods you'd say are a "must"? A lot to dig into, but we're very excited for the new machine and want to make it our own a bit.

I did the white translucent drop targets with the lights from mezel. My wife was surprised by how much she liked it in person vs when I showed her photos of what was getting purchased. If your wife has the ramp lights as a "must", think the drop targets can fit well in that lighted theme as well.

Visual mods I havent done much outside of that but I'm also going down that route of building out my 3d models for the avengers tower at least. Wanted to give the windows a translucent look. Had just gotten into resin printing a few months ago and love the output on those things. Sanctum building I wasnt sure of what to do. I love Mezel's but also dont want to lose the spotlight over the disc, so trying to decide what to do there.

Considering how much we love the game and its probably going to stick around for a good while, I'm going to slowly draw/build out a complete replacement for the back skyline of the city. I'll get to that project once we hit holiday season for work. Right now only have time for maybe 3-4 side projects.

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