(Topic ID: 277423)

Official Avengers Infinity Quest owners thread. "Pinsiders Assemble!"

By Scribbles

1 year ago


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Topic Stats

  • 8,913 posts
  • 683 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Sleal16
  • Topic is favorited by 298 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“Of the Avengers featured on the inserts, who is your favorite?”

  • Hulk 103 votes
    20%
  • Iron Man 94 votes
    18%
  • Captain America 62 votes
    12%
  • Black Widow 38 votes
    7%
  • Thor 61 votes
    12%
  • Black Panther 26 votes
    5%
  • None of those weakling, THANOS! 135 votes
    26%

(519 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #816 LE with T-moulding changed to yellow Posted by SKWilson (1 year ago)

Post #1417 Fix for Hawkeye loop not registering Posted by EaglePin (1 year ago)

Post #1797 How to adjust height of spinning disc to prevent airballs Posted by dbb143 (1 year ago)

Post #1847 Rules writeup with link to Stern rule sheet Posted by Bricarus (1 year ago)

Post #1870 Fix for spinning disc not registering hits Posted by WizardsCastle (1 year ago)

Post #1950 TECH: Pic of updated subway mech from Stern to replace broken one Posted by Motorcitypinball (1 year ago)

Post #2056 Fix for ball hangups and habitrail adjustment to stop ball hangup. Posted by hocuslocus (1 year ago)

Post #2125 TECH: Tight glass fix. Posted by MurphyPeoples (1 year ago)

Post #2163 Avengers LE with chrome T-molding Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#268 1 year ago

So no Pros in the wild yet?

#272 1 year ago
Quoted from Meegis:

There are at distros, I know trent put one at the VFW show in Michigan last weekend.

Right. I know dists have them, but was asking if anyone that's not a dist has theirs yet. Signs point to "no."

#366 1 year ago
Quoted from Mando:

So what is the consensus on the best set of figures to put on the playfield . Other than don’t do it

Just one.

Dr. No.

(If you have a Pro, I can get behind putting a better gauntlet than just the plastic in there, but that's about it.)

1 week later
#755 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Well..less unwanted noise. Have you ever tried pinball with headphones...wow, very cool experience, if playing by yourself; cuts out most external noise.
Regarding other posts; the power supply is a Meanwell, a well known power supply manufacturer, it’s not Stern part. Sure one can replace the fan with a Noctua, which I suggest folks look into, but Stern is not at the controls here.

Stern is absolutely in control. Meanwell has said they will put a quieter fan in if it's requested by Stern and they order a minimum quantity. I know, I asked Meanwell engineering. I'm fine selling plug and play quiet fan kits, but I'd be pleased if Stern just shipped at least the LEs with quiet power supplies from the jump.

10
#756 1 year ago
Quoted from Sly_Old_Devil:

AND a new PSU with a quieter fan.

A> This is great news. Hopefully the samples I sent helped him act on putting Stern on this pro-customer path. FINALLY.

B> Gomez's example of needing a noisy fan to allow the game to still run at a laundromat with 87F ambient temperature and a plate glass window is BS. When developing the kit, I tested what became the final quiet fan kits on location for months in the summer in a bar with no air conditioning where the ambient temp during the day was ~85F with relatively low humidity (high humidity environments may be different, I haven't tested in one) and the quiet fans never had a problem keeping the power supply below the 122F threshold where the Meanwell power supply begins to throttle power. Power supply hit 122F, temp switch turned the fan on, temperature normalized down around 104F, fan turned off. Rinse, repeat. I had realtime probes that stored the min/max internal power supply temp AND the min/max backbox temp so I know neither the power supply interior or backbox exceeded 123F at any time over a period of more than a year I monitored that machine. Quiet fan kits with lower RPM and slightly less CFM worked fine. I don't recommend putting the quiet fan kit in a machine where the ambient temp will be much over 85F, but meanwells throttle for a long time past even the point where they start throttling before they hit critical and just shut off. I've never seen that happen, or even heard of it happening.

Stern's RSP-500-48 Meanwell power supply is superior to Spooky's SE-600-48 Meanwell in two important ways:

One, the Stern power supply has a thermal temp sensor that turns the fan on and off (neither the Spooky or Stern meanwell controls the speed of the fan, they're just simple on/off - George was wrong about this) while the Spooky Meanwell just runs all the time.

Two, the throttling temperature threshold on the Stern Meanwells is 18 degrees higher than the Spooky one, so you get full power longer in an unlikely overheating scenario that requires throttling to maintain temps.

So, while the Spooky one has a bit more power output, it's crappier, IMO.

Spike 500W Meanwell power supply temp power throttling chart:
RSP 500-48_temp_graph (resized).jpg

Compared to Spooky's Meanwell power supply temp power throttling:
SE-600-48_temp_graph (resized).jpg

#780 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

The way I think about it is if I put myself in Stern's shoes I'd probably go with the same thing. It seems like a bit of a Catch-22. If you try to design for a quiet fan and it ends up not doing the job in certain conditions and a few games overheat you probably get people complaining that Stern is being cheap and not designing their games with good enough fans.

The situation would have to be VERY EXTREME for the machine not to cool below 122F. Once the fan turns on, even the lower CFM quiet fan, the power supply drops back from 122F and normalizes eventually to 104F. The ambient temperature in the backbox would have to be 122F for the fan to provide no benefit, and at that point, you're hot car in a parking lot on a 110F day territory. You would have other problems like playfield plastics deforming, etc. And the power supply STILL wouldn't actually shut off, the flippers might just get mushy or if it got very hot, the machine might reset around 145F. It's very unlikely to happen, but even if it did, the worst case is weak coils, eventually resets and if it keeps heating to 158F, the machine just shuts down.

So rather than punish everyone with a loud stock power supply, why not do what they're looking into - offer a power supply with a more modest sound profile as factory stock. Then if you have the death valley parking lot pinball arcade, you can make available a super heavy duty drop in power supply for his environment and very unusual needs.

It's nice that Stern is finally heading in the direction that benefits the vast majority of their customers with this power supply/fan change.

#796 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Hey man, didn’t mean to start an argument here, it’s great news that Stern could actually get Meanwell to create a custom part with a different fan. BTW, I’ve put your kit in my JP2 and it’s great. Thank you. I plan on getting another one for AIQ. I appreciate all the data you have as well; my only point was that Stern couldn’t change the fan on their own, most likely. Especially without violating the UL listing on the PS unit. I look forward to getting my premium (eventually) and quieting down that stock fan. Cheers.

Sorry it came off as argumentative. The main reason I wasn't buying the long delay in Stern actually FIXING the problem is I contacted Meanwell engineering directly and they were cautiously welcoming to the idea of putting a quieter fan in the power supply if Stern requested it and they placed a large enough order. So the lack of action falls to Stern.

And, while I appreciate the sales of a quiet fan kit that I started as a personal DIY instructional project here on pinside ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans#post-4351927 ) showing others how to make a quieter fan fit the power supply, I much prefer Stern actually ship with an appropriate quiet fan power supply from the factory. Same goes for Spooky, who is in a somewhat worse position where power supplies are concerned, IMO.

But that's enough of this fan talk. I'm looking forward to getting this pin later this week, too!

#890 1 year ago
Quoted from Motorcitypinball:

I had a CRAZY score today! I played well.
I made it to Battle Royal.
I defeated Battle Royale.
The Large amount of points came somewhere from with in Battle Royale MODE.
I was playing a 3 player game and this happened on the 3rd ball of player 3
I didn't have the cameras setup tonight , because the basement is still getting painted and the equipment is not setup.
Has Anybody else had this happen?
I would Assume Glitch in code
[quoted image]

Seems like there was a multiplier on an unsigned integer that had wrapped around to max value (instead of going negative) and then was multiplied by a bonus, so likely a math problem. Deadpool has a similar problem.

#941 1 year ago
Quoted from Dorkboy:

I can’t wait for my premium. I’ve never purchased a new pin before and was wondering what is the usual timeframe that it takes for cliffys to be released for new games?

Few weeks to a few months, depending on machine popularity and his access to a machine or measurements. In the meantime you can mylar the lower shooter lane.

#1091 1 year ago
Quoted from Valorguy:

Curious how you will protect the scoop when there aren't any cliffy's available yet? Did I miss it somewhere in the thread?

Cut some mylar for now.

#1127 1 year ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Well LE #2 is dead in the water.
Upper half of the playfield is dark.
Disc is stuck up. Ball search sees nothing happen in the trough. Can't start a game.
I now have 2 games down at the same time because of node board issues. SW is also down right now with node board 8 out.
Never had this happen with the SAM system.
I hate these node boards.
And my distributor just left on his annual 2 week trip out west. Not his fault though...
Oh, well it isn't arms and legs.

Node 8 and 9 are interchangeable, you just have to change the dip switches if you reverse the boards or swap them in from another machine. So you can get your Star Wars up for sure. You may be able to get your AIQ running, too.

If Star Wars is out of warranty, Borygard has a good record fixing them quickly and relatively inexpensively.

You have options.

#1160 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Any one else have POOP! On their screen when it’s cycle through them in attract mode?
[quoted image]

So is that Strange Poop or Poop Strange?

#1170 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmxdc:

This game is amazing, when leveling I feel like all ramps hit better around 6.5. I tried 6.7 but after playing a couple hours I felt like the flippers were getting tired and struggling to hit all the ramps.

I'll have flipper coil temp testing done soon to see if it's TMNT type fade or dethrones Stranger Things.

#1211 1 year ago
Quoted from TenaciousT:

My daughter just back from Marvin's MMM and the AIQ le was shut down ! I asked her if it was broken ? She didn't know !

If it's like the other reports, likely the subway crawler weld or spinner, both of which could be shut off so the game is still playable...

#1213 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball7:

The more and More I look at this, It defiantly looks like burning or something dropped in the shooter lane before clear
[quoted image][quoted image]

That's normal. Don't worry about it.

#1224 1 year ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Looks to me like a friction burn from the tool they used to route out the wood for the shooter lane groove.

Maybe, but it could also be not awesomely consistent wood (slice of a knot, etc) at that layer of the playfield sandwich. It's certainly not abnormal. I've seen it many times.

#1299 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Anyone know LEDs Stern are using these days in their games? I know it was cointaker for a while but they no longer have the CT markings on them.
Looking to upgrade some older games and I like the look of my newer Sterns lighting so trying to copy it as close as possible.

Don't know, but I would be very surprised if Stern wasn't using a direct line to a Chinese factory by now for their LEDs.

#1329 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Cheers Vire, I’m going to go with comet, white for GI and inserts, can’t be bothered with colour matching inserts but will go with coloured flashers.

Avengers is a very colorful game already. Even most of the clear inserts are RGB, there are only a few that could have color added and not be out of place. THOR and IRON are the two that most need a little color. THOR a blue to white gradient and IRON a light blue for more of an arc reactor suggestion.

#1330 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Cheers Vire, I’m going to go with comet, white for GI and inserts, can’t be bothered with colour matching inserts but will go with coloured flashers.

I pulled one and Stern is definitely using a chinese bulb manufacturer direct now. Here's a pic of one:

stern_spike_bulbs (resized).jpg
#1452 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmxdc:

Ok anyone know where the dog would go. I saw the extra plastics in the bag for my LE and I was like oh a dog. It's stapled to the side so I don't want to pull it out unless it would look cool somewhere.
[quoted image]

Looks like it's just meant to be a keychain piece for your coin door keys.

#1486 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Please god no. I will pay extra for white GI. Or better yet, just put that RGB money into mechs, code, etc. Most inserts only need to be one color.

I dunno. RGB GI can be very cool if used well. I'm not a huge fan of red GI because it makes the game harder to see, but blue gi in some of the jjPotC modes is very effective. Pinkish red GI in Lovegun (or was it Dr. Love?) modes for KISS is also pretty cool. I agree that there's more potential for bad usage or over-use, but in general, I've seen the potential to enhance the play experiences and it is great if used well.

18
#1496 1 year ago

Just about have the Dr. Strange light bezel finished. It raises the plastic and flash dome up about an inch so you can SEE the windows on the plastic below it. Also, the bezel has a reflector inside that bounces the side flash lighting that's wasted in the factory setup back up towards the Dr. Strange plastic so it lights up very nicely as the main flash lighting is directed down. There's also some symbols on the front and front sides that light up. Should be in the Pinmonk store here pretty soon.

DrStrangeBezel.gif
#1509 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Nice Vic! Very nice! Have you finalised pricing?

Not yet. I'm using a couple standoffs that slide into the back to reinforce it and metal standoffs are ridiculously expensive for what they are, and I don't want to drop down to nylon ones. So I need to settle on which kind of metal standoffs I go with (and what height - there's about a 3/8" range of difference in the various ones I'm playing with). I also need to finalize the stabilization piece for the standup with the windows so it doesn't sag (which is part of the reason the stock one is obscured, too). I should have it figured out probably over the weekend or by next week for sure, but just lots of small details are still in flux that would affect the cost. The best part of it for me is that I was able to get the Dr Strange plastic to illuminate pretty well also by bouncing the side flasher light back up. Looks cool.

#1512 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Thanks everyone, seems my Pinstadium lights were causing the short. Strange I've used them in most of my sterns and never had such an issue.

Spike is extremely fussy with voltage. You may be just a hair low on this machine and adding pinstadium pushed it over (or the pinstadium strip itself may have a problem causing too much voltage draw). Check the output of the power supply to make sure it's putting out a solid 48v to the power distribution board. If it's not, there's a pot that can adjust the output.

#1513 1 year ago
Quoted from BigT:

my right ramp that goes around the gauntlet has stopped registering shots. I am guessing it is an opto but don't know what to do or how to verify. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Put the game in switch test mode (using the buttons inside the coin door). Pull out the white post inside the left of the coin door frame so the playfield is powered while the door is open and wave your finger in front of the optos to see if it triggers them.

#1516 1 year ago
Quoted from BigT:

ok...just did that and it did not register. other switches did register.

Look at the little lights on the opto circuit board and (while switch test mode is still on the screen) wiggle with wiring to see if the board LED goes on or off when you do, indicating a short. Also try pressing on the board in various directions. Switch test mode may trigger as you do this to tell you you're getting close to the problem.

#1527 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Haven’t experienced this. What have you tried to power and had an issue?

I personally haven't experienced it, but I am very careful to check amp draw, etc before I do anything (although I will say that the fused harness for the tibetan breeze flipper coil cooling kit does exactly what it's designed to do to protect the node board, I blew a fuse on it during development when I inadvertantly shorted it).

However, I have seen a number of occasions where people have had some mod they DIY'd or bought cause issues. Alligator clips are often involved.

#1528 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Go with metal stand offs if you need to Vic I’m sure people would be happy to pay the extra for a couple of metal standoffs.
There’s some truly terrible mods for this game, this one is one of the very few must haves for this pin!

Well, thanks for the vote of confidence! Non-metal standoffs are out of the question. I just can't do it. The question is whether I find brass, steel, stainless steel, or aluminum at the best price. I want steel or stainless steel, but they are pricier than aluminum or brass. I'll figure it out. I've taken to calling this mod the Dr. Strange tuna can almost from the beginning, because it looks kind of like a tin of sardines before it's put together. That may be the final mod name because I've called it that so much I can't imagine it being called something else. But maybe when I write the story for the product description, something else will happen. Pinmonk DOES have a cat, so...

#1530 1 year ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

Because all spike machines have properly calculated power budgets. Leeching power from the pin can push them over that budget. These aren't the machines of old where you could just tap into power willy-nilly.
I can understand why you'd not like my statement though, given your business.

The best place to get power from spike is the coin door interface board, using features that are not used by most people (all those empty connectors are 5v and 12v power, depending on the connector). Those each have varying available power budgets of up to 2A depending on the connector, which is a lot. And if there's fused protection built into the mod, it's pretty low risk. But I agree that drawing from outside the spike system (service jack, for example) is the only truly foolproof way.

#1533 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Anyone else having this issue?
Ball traverses the subway, gets past the LAST set of fingers and just sits there. Seems like there is a bit of a”dip” in the subway in that spot just before it dumps the ball to the VUK, have to nudge machine every time to get it to drop to VUK or it will go into ball search
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Haven't seen that complaint, but I'd add a washer to the subway end or the VUK, depending on which side needed to go up or down, so there's a smooth transition or a drop from the subway into the VUK so the ball can get into it freely.

14
#1558 1 year ago

Okay finished temp testing on Avengers Pro. I would rank it only as mild fade (more occasional bricked shots, missed shots once ~135 degrees is reached) after a solid hour of play. It takes a LOT longer than TMNT to even get into the 130s (over 45 minutes of solid play) and once it's there, it hovers around 132-135 degrees unless you play it past 75-80 minutes solid. The longest session I tested was 125 minutes and it definitely was feeling fade-y at the end. I would put this in the mild class for short sessions <60 minutes and moderate for long sessions >90 minutes.

So, thus far flipper coil temp testing reveals these coil fade ratings (there's a Spooky in here too - thanks Joel):

None - Star Wars (115 peak temp, 60 minutes of play - thanks portside!)

-Mild-
Avengers - 135F peak temp after 60 minutes of play

-Moderate -
Avengers (long play) 150.22F peak temp after 2 hours 5 minutes of play
TMNT 145.4 peak temp after 27 minutes of play
Iron Maiden
TNA 144.8 peak temp after 35 minutes of play

- Severe -
Stranger Things (>157 degrees after 45 minutes of play)

EDITED to add Avengers long test.

#1578 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Would you put JP in the same category as Stranger things?

Haven't put temp probes on it and tested JP yet. My goal is to temp test all the spike, but it will take time.

#1579 1 year ago
Quoted from paul_8788:

Interesting, and weird. Not sure why there would be such a wide difference.

I'm not sure yet since this whole area of performance investigation is pretty new (I don't believe even Stern does it, which is crazy). It's been suggested I add a flip/hold counter to my setup so I can track how many flips/holds happen during the testing period. Holds are a waste of time since I've established that on Spike (and ONLY Spike) they do not affect temp in any meaningful way (early on my plan was to jam the hold on and check in a half hour to see what the temp went up to. To my surprise the temp increased a whopping 1 degree). The full power energize of the coil is what does it over time, so I may work on a way to track how many of those are flipped. Coil size has something to do with it as does how close everything is on the playfield (I assume that affects how often the ball comes back to you and you have to flip).

On Avengers, specifically, the wide open playfield and longer ball return times (ramps, pops, hold tower, etc) feel like it gives the flippers more time to rest, which adds up over time. Star Wars seems to be somewhat similar.

Dunno. It's interesting and I don't have all the answers, only temps so far, but as I move through the testing I want to get a better idea about the factors that differentiate an Avengers from a Stranger Things because the temp difference is Stark.

Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

Nice to see a little real science in here!

Thank you, but let's not get carried away. This started as curiosity on Stranger Things' severe fade and has turned into an infomercial.

#1582 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I haven't noticed fade on my JP even after playing for 90 minutes. On Avengers I am noticing some fade after about 45 minutes to an hour. I don't think it's a lot of fade, but I think the steeper ramps on Avengers make it noticeable. On mine it seems more noticeable on shots up the left ramp from the right flipper. Still playable though.

Yes, there is very minor fade on Avengers starting at about the 45 minute mark in my testing. But it's not terrible. I didn't play over 60 minutes, but I may do at least one more session to say 75 minutes or so to see if the temps keep climbing slowly. They seemed pretty stable around the 135 degree mark and it took a LONG time to even get there.

Quoted from metallik:

I wonder if Spike duty-cycles the hold at a higher frequency and that is helping keep temps down?

Dunno. I just know that on Spike you will not blow a transistor with a long hold, where on Whitestar and SAM you probably WILL if you hold for a half hour straight. It was one of the many surprises from this testing thing.

#1683 1 year ago

Okay, so finished the long play on Avengers temp testing. There's definitely real flipper fade on the long games over about 1.5 hours. Peak temp in my 125 minute test (solid play) was 150.22F and it came after the 2 hour mark. 145F came at 1 hour 37 min. So I definitely believe that temps of 150-155F were causing the fade on Karl DeAngelo's livestream based on the trouble he was having with the marvel ramp and the length of time he had been playing.

Avengers is strange though because the coil temps have plenty of little game breaks (like the flip-counting soul gem mode and the avengers tower magnet hold) to help the coil temps go down a little at a time and this makes it really hard to get into a full-on weak flipper kind of fade that happens in the mid 140s or so. So for most players that play less than 60 minutes at a go, or take breaks of 5-10 minutes between games, I'd say Avengers is a mild fade machine since it's unlikely they'll see temps over about 135F.

But if you play it long enough straight and get enough multiballs over time, it's a Moderate fade game for long play of 2 hours or more since I now know it can get over 150F in 2 hours.

#1713 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

Did anyone mention the Hawkeye loop sensor not registering?
Been missing out on a lot of jackpots!

Been mentioned. Seems to be an alignment issue with the sensor getting through the hole in the ball lane guide. Addition of a washer or washers to the bracket that holds both optos has solved it for most people with the issue.

#1715 1 year ago
Quoted from McDoom:

Hello everyone, I’m having a problem with my AIQ and was hoping I could get some help.
My ball keeps landing in this area (hole) and it won’t eject, causing me to have to remove the glass raise the play field and fish it out. If you know why the ball won’t eject please help (looked at the wiring and everything seems to be plugged in.
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Likely the switch needs to be adjusted. It's probably not registering that the ball is there. It looks like it's an opto. With nothing down there, open the coin door, pull out the white switch on the inside left of the coin door frame, press the service menu button on the coin door, go into diagnostics->switch test mode and wave a pencil or something down there and see if it registers when breaking the opto beam.

#1717 1 year ago
Quoted from McDoom:

Kind of new here, what’s the best way to adjust the switch?
Thanks Monk

First establish the switch is the problem. Do the test I outlined. Baby steps.

#1722 1 year ago

Anyone else have the center ramp plastic "U" at the top missing the mounting screws on the left and right? Mine was moving every time I hit the ramp, and I thought the mounts were just loose, but once I looked closer I realised they were both missing the 6-32 3/8" screw on the underside of the mount on each side. Checked the manual to make sure there was supposed to be one, and there was. Weird.

#1747 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

Any links to the problem?
Do I raise the guide rail? Or lower the sensor?

Putting a washer on the shared opto bracket on each side under the playfield lowered the sensors so they could see each other through the hole in the ball guide.

Look in the key post index at the top of the page for a link to the post with a picture and description.

#1748 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

Just like P2W games, they're milking the whales with these $1K toppers. It's actually a pretty good racket... once a person has a couple games with toppers, their topper-less games stick out like a sore thumb. Gotta have 'em all! Make the official toppers limited production so folks have to scramble to get one and you got a nice money printing machine.

You forgot the part about offering less cool mechanical innovation/features with each one while adding DLC for the game that is only unlocked by having a topper. The toppers Stern is selling today for $700 and up are far less cool/interactive than Game of Thrones for $400 (which was outrageous pricing back then).

#1776 1 year ago
Quoted from paul_8788:

I think I am too trained to follow the colored lights. Got lost my first time in Soul Gem mode. Hit all the green lit shots, then sat there stupidly hitting a couple of invalid shots until I ran out of flips. Read the rules online and saw that I was supposed to be hitting Thor and then drops. I am sure they were blinking "hit me" at the time, but I was looking everywhere for green arrows. I think something similar happens in one of the gem quests. You follow the colored arrows and then are left kind of hanging.

It's not you. Thor was VERY subtle. More of a glow than a flashing. I only finally found it through process of elimination, i.e. "what haven't I hit yet?"

#1826 1 year ago
Quoted from Apollyon:

Maybe you downloaded and installed the pro code by mistake.

It's still ridiculous to me that Stern's low level system doesn't have a CHECK that it's being put on the right machine yet. This is gradeschool-level programming best practices. But we are talking about Lonnie here, so...

#1843 1 year ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Is Lonnie the one responsible for the final packaging of each code update? I'd think it's on the lead software engineer from each individual title to implement changes and polish before submitting code revisions, and they most definitely should have the ability to block the transfer if the machine isn't the proper trim level.
This is a VERY SIMPLE FIX. Stern has just been slow to make these changes!

Lonnie (maybe others, too) does low-level OS stuff that all the machines use in addition to his more high-profile game-specific code. There should be a lock and key system for the low level OS so it recognizes what it is on and blocks code updates that don't match that. It is not hard to do, just takes some planning. It should have been a feature starting with Aerosmith, not left still undone 10 games later. They're going to HAVE to do it for network based updates, so maybe that's the plan? Put it off until there's no way around it?

#1851 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

So am I the first to notice or didn't catch the post:
Updated to .92 fine...always watch out of curiousity (and fear) for anything odd that may appear after update. To my surprise (just saw it tonight) when the game boots up it displays "Avengers Infinity Quest LE #374". Has this always been the case on newer games (my last NIB was MunstersLE)? It "knows " my machine #? The game is actually # 375 on the plaque, etc.
I'm not drinking...yet....but I've never seen this before. Guess I'll go through the menu as maybe you can change it, but what a wild thing it's so close!!!

I could see where this could happen if the code starts from 0 instead of 1. Sounds like a software mistake.

#1866 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Would it be corrected w next update, or put in the bug report thread?
Maybe reload the code? I've never had a game that showed the LE# on the screen, so caught me off guard...

I'd just send an email to Stern to report it as a bug, which it likely is.

#1872 1 year ago
Quoted from Maverick203b:

My inner loop opto is not registering anymore. I have emailed Stern and saw an earlier post that they are sending a new one to another in this group. Any other tips to troubleshoot? It worked for about 20 games and then stopped.

Check the topic index at the top of this page and click on the hawkeye loop fix. Seems to be a common issue.

#1905 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

Is there someone with a premium with yellow t-molding on his backbox?
How does it look?

Topic index at the top of each page is your friend. There's a link in there to pics of yellow t-molding.

#1974 1 year ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Questions: SOul Gem mode- what are the shots? I got through the first 4-5 and then it wasnt clear what was next. It was a green light for each one and then suddenly there wasnt any but mode was still active.

When it's not clear, it's either Thor or the target bank, both of which need a callout or better indication that they're the next shot.

#2042 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

So on the main ramp. I followed the key post and bent the exit with pliers. No difference. If bending the ramps and turning down the flippers isn't fixing the problem. I don't know what a logical next step to fixing the ramps would be.

Playfield pitch?

#2053 1 year ago
Quoted from anago:

Unboxed my premium over the weekend and I keep getting random ball saves activating and a new ball plunged when my original ball is clearly still in play and never drained. This only happens when ball save is flashing, so I am wondering if it's a trough sensor issue? This is probably not game specific, but I couldn't find a answer to my problem elsewhere. What should I look into for troubleshooting? Newer to the hobby so forgive my limited knowledge.

Take the glass off, put the game in switch test mode (remember to pull the white post so switches are energized) and smack the playfield firmly with your hand in various places to see if switches trigger from the vibration.

#2068 1 year ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I pulled the AIQ glass and tried it in another pin. Fit perfectly loose as normal. Tried a different glass in AIQ and it wouldn't fit. The cabinets are being made slightly too narrow in some cases.

Or that cabinet is slightly out of square, or the glass channel plastic was put on just slightly off.

#2086 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

just looking at the various updates recently, sorry I'm a geek, there is a lot_ going on with how Stern structuring their code. A lot more encryption- I suspect to make the games secure for going online.

Online probably had a lot to do with it, but I also imagine when Dwight's code was disassembled and literally all his easter eggs for a game (I don't recall which one...Munsters?) laid out in a post a year or so ago, Stern probably freaked out a little. Who puts easter eggs in plaintext??

Oh, and I'm sure they want to kill pinball browser, too.

#2246 1 year ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

My buddy just unboxed a premium and there is an issue with the flippers, they occasionally go dead and the lower playfield goes black. Any ideas on a fix? Already sent emails to distributor and Stern.

Sounds like a problem with the node 8 board or one of the things plugged into it. If it happens fairly consistently, you can narrow down where the problem is by unplugging connectors from node 8 one at a time and see if it still happens with that one disabled, then if not, replace it and unplug the next. That will get you in the right area. You can refer to the manual to see which connectors are what for Node 8.

#2259 1 year ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Thanks, node 8 appears to be the problem, I’m guessing it would be fine to swap out the node 8 board with another one of his spike 2 games so we can play tonight?

You can swap node 9 and 8 in the same machine as long as you change the dip switches so the boards know they've been switched. this often will get you going as whatever is messed up on the board may not be used in the node 9 position.

11
#2371 1 year ago

Mystic Bezel for the Dr. Strange plastic is done and in the pinmonk store. I had to make a piece to correct the sag of the plastic sign that's now part of the kit, but it looks great and the sign status is now visible as you play. The Dr. Strange plastic illuminating is a bonus of the enclosure that focuses the flasher light down onto the wheel. Excess light from the sides of the flasher is reflected back up to the plastic on top.
mystic_bezel_installed_600x.jpg
mystic-bezel 600x.jpg

#2373 1 year ago
Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

My game is scoring points during the "kla-klunk" of balls traveling through the subway.
How do I start down the path of trying to find what switch is activating, assuming it's not intended?

Go into switch test mode (open the coin door, pull the white post on the inside left of the coin door frame, then press the button on the door to go to the system menu. Select "Diag" then switches), and smack the playfield firmly with your open palm at various places to see what switch is being triggered by the vibration. It will show on the display if a switch is triggered and which one(s).

#2458 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Just received vireland 's Tibetan Flipper Coil cooling kit and installed it on my AIQ Premium. Played last night for 2 hours and there was zero flipper fade. Super easy to install and works perfectly. Highly recommend.

Awesome. Fade on long play sessions is real on Avengers AIQ, so glad I was able to help knock them out for you. Thanks for the recommendation and support.

#2461 1 year ago
Quoted from 2000_Alum:

Just ordered two, my IMDN has serious fade, hope this fixes it. Other one is for the AIQ on its way!

Thanks for the order! You have to get into the mid-high 120s to have the very beginning effects of fade, and the cooling kit keeps flippers way below that, in the 100-110F range, so it just stops fade dead no matter how long you play.

#2590 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

If they code it in, couldn’t owners swap the white led board for an RGB one?

You need more leads on the individual light boards for RGB - the wires aren't there.

The biggest dumb move by Stern is putting warm white LEDs under the I-R-O-N rollover lights and the THOR inserts. They both deal with electricity, so they should have been the bluish white LEDs. It's the main reason I had to make light brackets for both - the yellowish light looks dumb for those.

#2592 1 year ago
Quoted from Ch4p3l:

Love how this game is evolving. Just played my first game on the new code and it just keeps getting better. Don’t know why but was kind of hoping that during the match sequence when hulk crashes down the lights would go green from back to front almost like a shockwave coming out.

That would be very cool.

#2596 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Anyone from Stern reading this? Please drop this nugget of genius into the game.

I sent this to keith directly to make sure he sees it. Would be very cool to implement.

#2598 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Is all of AIQ warm white? Or are they using sunlight? My BM66 is definitely cool white.

That's what's goofy. It's not all warm white, but the place where it most DIDN'T need warm white, they used it.

#2608 1 year ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Is it a pro thing for the Thor lights? On the LE/premium the Iron Man inserts are warm but the Thor letters are cool.

Dunno, haven't seen a Premium/LE IRL. I'll check the Pro THOR sign since I'm taking pics of it now for the bracket. It may be cool, just not the bluish light the sign with electricity kind of demands.

#2626 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

I’ve got two 3080’s and have two PS5’s on the way for Thursday (not scalping, second ones are for friends). If you know where and when to look, they’re certainly attainable!

3080s are more attainable once everyone realized NVidia screwed up on them and they're essentially accidentally crippled. Waiting until early 2021 to buy the revised cards is the way to go.

#2652 1 year ago

Am I just extremely late noticing that the system menu color on avengers changes (seemingly randomly) each time you go into it? Has this been discussed?

#2658 1 year ago

These will be in the Pinmonk.com and pinside pinmonk store later tonight once I finish taking pictures of the actual brackets.

For the Pro/Prem/LE lighting is done for the I-R-O-N inserts and matching arc reactor insert by the tower to make them more suggestive of electric blue light.
I-R-O-N Before and After_sml (resized).jpgArc_Reactor_Insert_sml (resized).jpg

Also, for the PRO ONLY - the T-H-O-R light set is done for the stand up sign and the two inserts in front of the captive ball. The triangular insert is already kind of smoked, so the blue filter just enhances the blue cast. The multiball circular insert below the triangle has a blue filter on it, but the effect is very subtle so it stands out and there's not too much blue in that area of the playfield.
THOR_SIGN_Before_After_sml (resized).jpgTHOR-Playfield_inserts_sml (resized).jpg

#2703 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

FINALLY got my new AIQ Premium, turn it on...”Check Power Distribution Board.”
Language settings come up, I could flip, but not select w/ power button or action button (and neither were lit, though I don’t know if they should be on initial setup).
Tried power cycling, no change.
Tried swapping to a different SD with the latest code update (v0.93), node boards updated fine, then same “Check Power Distribution Board” error. Then it briefly went to the language select, but I couldn’t even flip this time. Then back to the error.

Did you check all the connectors on the power distribution board (with the power off) to make sure they're all snugly and completely connected?

#2717 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I opened the coin door and was able to start selecting settings during initial setup from the buttons in the door, I can even rush through them and get to the Free Play attract screen, but still, after about 10 seconds, the “Check Power Distribution Board” error comes up.
I could’ve dealt with any of the other problems I’ve been reading about, but this??? I’m lost!
EDIT: I took the plate off the outlet to get to the V+ and V- in the power supply, and noticed that the CN2 connector wasn’t plugged in. After a little bit, decided to check a couple of my other Stern games...found they each had it plugged in. I plugged it in on the AIQ, and now, it appears to be working! I’m talking the connector was full-off, nowhere near the plug, looked like it was intentionally stowed away kind of “not connected,” which was why I initially thought maybe that was by design as a service thing. Glad I had other machines to check!
Well, it hasn’t kicked me out of the menus yet...will see if it gives me any other trouble!

That Stern quality control...

Glad you got this resolved!

#2727 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I went with orange on my IRON inserts to try to match the Iron Man Avenger insert color.
[quoted image]

Since those inserts are matched to the Arc reactor on the screen animations and the Arc Reactor insert at the base of the tower, I was trying to suggest blueish electrical light continuity. I can see the argument for orange, too...

#2740 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I’m new to Titan flipper rubbers, but I thought one of the selling points for them was durability. This is on the exposed upper flipper in my new AIQ, have only played it for one day, and this is already the state of the rubber.
Has anyone else seen this, or have any recommendations? Would standard rubber be better to take the beating that this flipper tip gets? Should this just be expected on this game? Is this an anomaly?
These are low bounce competition rubbers, for reference.
[quoted image]

I always use the perfectplay ones from pinball life on the flippers:

https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html

#2777 1 year ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Odd question for the group, I want to power an LED strip for a homemade topper, I know I can feed off a GI bulb but would prefer something in the back box. Any suggestions?

You're better off pulling it from an unused connector on the coin door interface board that is designed for the load you want to put on it. The board has both 5v and 12v connectors that aren't used in home environments. Tapping into GI with an existing power budget may exceed the power budget and cause node board problems/failures. One word of caution, though. Make SURE you have an inline 1A fuse to protect the board in case something bad happens with the LED topper strip and it shorts out or something.

#2813 1 year ago
Quoted from Audioenslaved:

So I’m contemplating aiq for those that own a premium/Le where does it sit within your collection? For example my current 1-7 is
TWDLE (always will be the king)
Tmnt Le
WH2O
Deadpool premium
Xmen magneto
Iron man
WOZ
I have room for 8 and the above list is bordering on 7 keepers!

XMEN Magneto is the weak point in that collection.

#2821 1 year ago
Quoted from Maverick203b:

I’m getting a lot of rejects off the top plastic on the Black Widow ramp. Anybody have this happening? Any suggestions?
[quoted image]

Is it connected? On mine the left screw had fallen off completely and the right screw holding the plastic down was almost completely unscrewed. The plastic was kind of flopping when the ball went up.

#2889 1 year ago
Quoted from NoQuarters:

I'd like to see flipper presses do lane changes to move lighted letters for I R O N .

It just takes getting used to. I like that Keith's trying different things. Next up? More complicated subway with diverter functionality. Drag Stern into B/W subways.

#2891 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

My game did not have a rubber on this post. I ended up putting a blue one on. Do other machines come with no rubber on this post?? Thanks everyone.
[quoted image]

Not supposed to have a rubber on it.

#2892 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Please god no.

Oh, yes, Yes, YESSSSSSS! Hahahahahahahahahaaaa...

Think of them as under playfield ramps if you must.

#2894 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Never understood the fascination with having a ball do things the player can't see.

So ball troughs are inscrutable to you?

#2928 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

They're not fun.

So you're advocating for ball trough removal because you can't see what the ball's doing and they're not fun? Ball troughs have a utility that transcends fun.

#2930 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Would love to see the complex subway return from STTNG. But this time use it to have multiple scoops that could fire the ball at the player but it’s unknown where it’s coming from. Coyle make for a cool multiball start as well.

Stern's bean counters have really ruined the variety of play that Bally/Williams did so well and continually innovated on with subway use. Glad to see Elwin tippy-toeing into them with Iron Maiden (world's shortest subway) and now Avengers Prem/LE (world's most annoying subway). I hope he gets into making cool, surprising, fun subways with diverters and pre-loads for seemingly instant ball travel from one end of the playfield to the other. He has the clout at Stern to change their long record of subway omission. Time to use it.

#2938 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Totally agree. Love the idea to simulate ball warping across the playfield with staging like spectrum. Time to put that to use on a game that is actually good. Haha

And if Keith does it (or whoever, I don't care who is first at Stern), I want some kind of automobile noise-dampening material on the subway troughs and magnetic ball launches instead of kicker coils to start the ball moving silently and keep it silent as the ball moves through them so I can't hear it staging the balls or moving things around. Also a ball trough redesign with a diverter that sends drained balls directly into the subway system immediately for restaging would be excellent and move the hobby forward.

#2941 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

No. You’re playing dumb. Ball troughs are essential, but no fun. Subways are neither.

I'm not playing. It's effortless.

I was just pointing out that ball troughs meet your self-declared definition of things you don't like about pinball. Subways can be WAY more fun than a ball trough. If you can accept ball troughs, you can enjoy subways done well. Are you telling me you don't like the idol lock on Indy? That shot, subway, and lock sequence is fantastic, satisfying entertainment every time.

#2946 1 year ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Can you recommend a mail for stern support please?

[email protected] should help, but he will likely ask you to contact your distributor first.

#2969 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Flanos[quoted image]

That immediately made me think, "chilled monkey brains."

#3063 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

After seeing the photo of the washer under the mystery scoop guide, I decided to have a look at mine...
Looks like the guide was tightened before the clear cured, so there's now an indentation, and a raised bubble.
What do you guys think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Iron it with yelobird's vinyl iron method and then get mylar over it and a washer on the guide ASAP.

#3065 1 year ago
Quoted from RVH:

I was going to install a pinball life spike knocker kit but I cannot find the setting to turn on a knocker. Maybe it’s not coded in the game now?
Running .93 code

If it's there, it should be under standard adjustments. Something like "Q24 option" and "Knocker Volume"

#3067 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can you link me to this?
Also, anyone know what need to be unscrewed/removed to get this guide?

It's all here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#3069 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can you link me to this?
Also, anyone know what need to be unscrewed/removed to get this guide?

Get some painter's tape and tape both sides of the playfield down before you carefully lift the guide out so you have the best chance of keeping that blob on the playfield and not being pulled up with the guide...

#3094 1 year ago
Quoted from RVH:

Yep got it.
Standard adjustment #57.
Maybe I’ll put the knocker in tonight or tomorrow
Thanks

You need to turn the knocker volume off on the other adjustment, I think, to silence the screech you won't need if you have a real knocker.

#3100 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

amazon.com link »
It's tough to tell from the photos, but the promo video does show the tool in it.
Also, what washers should I use when I get it up? Metal, vinyl, fabric?

This is the one I got (but not from Amazon canada):
amazon.com link »

Permatex #81781

I think you're looking for the "professional electric heat tool" in the description. The other one says "heat transfer tool" which I don't think is the same.

#3103 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Ok, think I found it.
Do you suggest metal, nylon, or felt washers under the ball guide?

I use mylar over the repair, then metal washers.

#3107 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Any other spots needs attention while I'm under the pf?
I keep hearing the Thor guides? Do those need washers, or is it overkill?

Sorry, I don't know. The one I had looked good and I only had it about a month so I didn't get too deep into which guides might be a problem. Hopefully someone else who still has it will pipe up with your answer.

#3138 1 year ago

For the people that ordered the Mystic Bezel and have been patiently waiting, I just wanted to let all of you know that I finally have the revised instruction panels done and am ready to start sending them out (the parts have been printed for weeks, I was waiting on illustration changes for the instructions to make some steps clearer).

Anyway, here's the final instructions you'll get with the kit (this is the front and back side laid out next to each other:
Dr Strange Kit Full Size-Instructions-both-sides-sml (resized).jpg

#3192 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Looking at the online tutorial, the guy clicks on the download to open it and it then shows two files. When I try to open mine, it asks which app to use to open it. Does anyone know what program is used to open the file? My new computer does not have the right one perhaps.

Are you using Windows?

EDIT: Doesn't matter Avengers update isn't compressed in a zip.

#3194 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Yes. I have also tried my wife’s Mac and it didn’t work either. But I’m not getting the two separate files like they get in the tutorial.

EDIT: Nevermind

Just downloaded it and the file Stern has up for 0.94 isn't a zip, it's the actual spk file. Just drag it to your USB in the root directory and it should be good to go.

You can see the change they made by comparing it to the Elvira release on 11/4 that was a zip file containing the spk file(s). Now it's just the spk file itself they're putting up for this avengers 0.94 version.

#3196 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

That’s what I figured. Because I’ve never had problems before updating code with other games. So it’s either the usb or the game. I’m using a brand new PNY 16gb 2.0 usb formatted to fat32. I wonder if I should use the 3.0 sandisk that Best Buy had.

So does the game still work without a USB inserted? Do you only get that invalid config when you insert the USB to try to upgrade?

Also, on the CPU board are all the dip switches OFF?

#3199 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Yes game works fine.
The dip switches appear to be all on. My eyes suck and I can’t find my reading glasses
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Dip switches look fine. Have you tried building a new SD card? Maybe your existing card got corrupted...

How-to-Create-a-SD-Card-for-a-SPIKE-System-Pinball-Machine.pdf
#3203 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Yep. Frustrating as hell. I wonder since I bought it from Chicago distributor that it is out of sales area like the old school problems. Like the old dvd disks that didn’t work with DVD players from other countries

There's no issues inside the US like that these days, only with grey market exports to/from other countries AFAIK.

So you already made a new SD image?

Also, is this only a problem with 0.94? Does it refuse to install 0.93 over again?

#3206 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

I never installed .93 because I’ve been working long hours and haven’t had much time for pinball lately. But never had problems with TWD or WOZ updates. Haven’t tried sd image. Will have to research that I guess.

What version's in there now? Do you have a Pro or a Prem/LE?

Prem/LE 0.93 link is here if you want to try that and see if it works for you:
https://f002.backblazeb2.com/file/gamecode/avengers_infinity_le-0_93_0.spk

#3208 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

.91 shipped from factory. Premium. No dice with .93 code. I’m thinking there is an issue with the game. Every other game I have ever owned has had issues. I thought I was lucky that this one was error free out of the box. I’m thinking this is the error. Like a solder joint to the USB’s is defective.

I'd try building a new SD card before throwing up my hands.

#3210 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Yeah. I just need to research how that’s done.

The 0.94 SD card image is on Stern's site here:

https://f002.backblazeb2.com/file/gamecode/avengers_infinity_le-0_94_0.Release.8G.sdcard.raw.zip

I linked the PDF on how to make a fresh SD card, but here it is again - just click on the image to open the PDF.
How-to-Create-a-SD-Card-for-a-SPIKE-System-Pinball-Machine.pdf

#3225 1 year ago
Quoted from RVH:

Is there a fix for getting a ball stuck behind the pop bumper?
[quoted image]

On TWD, Stern just stuck a panhead screw in the playfield to stop something like that. I'd just ignore it, unless it keeps happening. In that case, I'd try bending the guide end in about 2mm first, then go with a mini-post.

#3234 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Thanks. I will try this Friday. Hopefully Best Buy has the right sd card.

I think the class is the only thing that matters. I've used a 16gb card (instead of the stockand it worked fine...

#3258 1 year ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Just got my Avengers
Can anyone tell me if this suppose to have rubber or not ?[quoted image]

Is not supposed to have a post sleeve.

#3299 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

I looked in the local stores and online and I can’t really find the sd card stern used. I’d prefer to get it as close as possible since that is what the tutorial says. Are there proven ones that work? This is what was in the game.[quoted image]

You don't want the same crappy Stern card unless you want the same problems eventually. The class is all that matters.

I recently used this and it was fine ($9.99 on sale now):
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-plus-16gb-sdhc-uhs-i-memory-card/3142535.p?skuId=3142535

The faster 32gb one is also $9.99 right now:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-extreme-plus-32gb-sdhc-uhs-i-memory-card/3990822.p?skuId=3990822

Be careful with Sandisk, though. It's a great brand, but that recognition has brought out LOTS of fakes out that will cause headaches if you get a knockoff/counterfeit. Do NOT buy them from Amazon or Ebay, only a physical store with a trusted supply chain like Best Buy or Target, etc. Best buy did get hit with counterfeits in their supply chain ONCE, but it hasn't happened since then, so I feel like they have that locked down and would buy from them (and I did).

#3302 1 year ago
Quoted from broada:

Curious about the SD card in Sterns. I assumed the code was copied to a hard drive or SSD drive housed with the CPU. Are these SD cards used as the game's primary/working source for game code?

Yes, the SD card is where the code resides. It's partitioned like a hard drive and us kind of a (very) poor-man's ssd, I guess. There's no hard drive or SSD in Stern Spike2 machines.

#3303 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Thanks. Unfortunately Best Buy is completely depleted at the moment locally. I will order online from them.
Edit: I’ll try target again first.

At Target just get one that's class 10 and with the biggest number in the "U" icon you can find. That's the sustained write speed. I think these are all 1 (10mb/s) or 3 (30mb/s).

#3306 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Got this one and downloaded file. But when I right click on it there is no extract all prompt in the window. The extract all on the tool bar is shaded and not available.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you format the SD card first? Fat32

Open with winzip (first option on that list), then extract the files to your hard drive, then copy them to the SD card.

#3309 1 year ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Just set up my premium today and the drop targets don't go up during a game, but they work in test mode. Anyone else experience this?

Reset them up. then go into switch test mode and drop them one at a time and see if it's registering that they dropped. I'm thinking no.

#3310 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Success. Thanks so much for your help.
[quoted image]

Awesome. And you now have a much more reliable SD card in there now, to boot!

#3312 1 year ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

Yeah, hopefully the next update can be done with a usb stick. Kind of disappointing that stern used a basically cheap on clearance sd card on an $8000 game to save
maybe a dollar or two.

Oh, the whole ADATA SD card likely cost them $1-$2ish wholesale (seconds?) in quantity.

Why not try doing an install of 0.94 again with USB stick and see if it will recognize it. You can install over the one you have on the SD and you can always re-image the SD if something goes wrong. That way you'll know if there's a physical warranty problem with your USB jacks.

#3323 1 year ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Yeah, nothing registers. There's no lights on on the board so something's wrong somewhere. I emailed Stern, hopefully I'll hear back soon.

Those switches that sense the target state are optos, so check the connector on the target board and also CN11 on the node 8 board to make sure they're both fully connected.

If that doesn't do it, you can swap node 8 and node 9 (and change the dip switches so they know they're now the opposite board) and see if that solves it. If it does, your node 8 board is likely bad.

#3367 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I just got my powder coat installed which was done by Robert stone. I went with Violet Frost. Robert always does great work.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That color looks great! Too late for yuurs, but it just hit me that the shooter plate is begging for the Avengers "A" logo like you have on your apron on the plate before it's powdercoated. Would really finish the whole look.

#3434 12 months ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Picked mine up today also.
[quoted image]

It's basically like a cheaper, more expensive Game of Thrones topper.

#3453 12 months ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

I've read through every post here and there still seems to be some confusion with the Dr. Strange spinner. The ONLY issue I'm having is the brass bushing falling out (as another poster referenced) so I'm not sure whether I need to ask Stern for the Disc Leveling Bushing replacement kit (as some posters have referenced) because it looks like the replacement part is not directly related to the brass bushing staying in place. I've posted 2 pics - bushing in place and not in place. The bushing falls out after 1-2 plays. The good news is I've become adept at opening up the playfield. The bad news is I'm done doing that until I know how to permanently fix this. When the bushing is in place, it spins and plays flawlessly. With it not in place, the disc is uneven with the playing field and doesn't spin well (as expected).
I just contacted Stern through their "contact us" on their website but not overly optimistic I'll hear back quickly. I don't have any direct email contacts over there yet.

Try [email protected] for warranty help.

#3457 12 months ago
Quoted from HemiOrange09:

If anyone is interested in getting a better look for Thanos Gauntlet. My painter came up with look for the 2 Pinball Refinery LEs that I am working on. It will be $175.00 plus shipping to have it painted. Here's a few before and after pictures.
I'll get them installed in the machines soon if someone wants to see that look.
Just PM me if you would like this done.
Steve
Mi Pinball Refinery
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks nice (holy crap what a lot of detail work!), but I think a vacuum metallized one would give the "wow" factor people are looking for because it would look like actual shiny gold with reflective surfaces. I'll check and see if it's even a feasible option cost-wise. I've done it before, but at much larger quantities.

#3459 12 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I've been on Pinside for 4 years now, (collecting for 20), and I've only scratched the surface of the threads on here, but I have to say the goodwill of the community in general and from what I've seen, vireland specifically is always willing to help in any way they can! People like that make this hobby great!

Thanks, but I'm a mere shadow of LTG.

1 week later
#3587 11 months ago
Quoted from Broohaha:

What is the pinside protocol regarding this massive thread for all things AIQ? (In other words, when is it 'normal' to start posting in separate threads?) I just keep seeing the same questions being asked again and again.

When you see that, tell them to check the topic index at the top of any page in the thread. A number of common problems are linked there. One thread to rule them all per game is all that's needed as long as the keyposts are kept up. People just need to learn to use the topic index when looking for an answer to a problem with their machine.

#3605 11 months ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Anyone have the rules for the Pro?

Check the link in the topic index at the top of the page. It links to a rules writeup and also to Stern's rulesheet.

#3608 11 months ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Installed the Pinmonk Sanctum bracket tonight. A little hard to get at the support nut with adult sized hands but still a pretty easy install. I can finally see what is lit at the sanctum without ducking. I prefer this mod tonthe full santum sculpt for a few reeasons. The major one for me is this one still uses the flasher over the portal. I like that look.
Sorry i forgot to take pics while the glass was off.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great, glad you like it! Getting the little brace that keeps the sign from sagging on is the hardest part about the install - but necessary, since without it, there's no adequate support for the sign in Stern's design and it sags forward.

#3639 11 months ago
Quoted from jlock:

Thanks. I did look at those. What is covered there about the disk is not my issue as far as I can tell. That post appears to be about the outer ring for the disk (the one with 4 screws in it), rather than the disk itself. My outer ring is fine. The disk itself is crooked. Am I missing something? Thanks.

Did you click on that photo in the post you're talking about? It's a PDF. Step 1 IS just the outer ring, but step 2 covers leveling the disc to the playfield.

#3685 11 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

I had metal washers in my LE but I never use them. I use the pinguard coloured nylon washers. Purple washers look great with the LEs yellow.
[quoted image]

Yeah, it's nice that Stern is at least finally TRYING (I think Batman '66 SLE is the first one I noticed the metal washers included), but as usual, it's a quarter measure. I definitely prefer thick nylon washers, too. I'm not super-picky about the color, though. I usually just get white or black ones at the hardware store.

#3719 11 months ago

Further along with the gauntlet vacuum-metallizing to make it shiny gold with actual gems that light up. Status report:

First impression - this will not be easy, at all. The opaque white covers for the gems are not just snapped in, they're glued. I'm 3 for 6 getting them out cleanly, so that will be a problem. I'm sure I can get better at it over time, but this will probably not be a DIY project, or if it is, it will be only for the most stout-hearted and fearless, since if you screw up the gauntlet that's a very expensive mistake, and it's pretty likely since it's impossible to tell how well each gem is glued until you try to knock it out.

Not sure I can get a quote in the metallizing back next week as a lot of places are taking off sometime next week for the rest of the year, but I'll keep working on the colored gems.

#3747 11 months ago
Quoted from spandol:

New place to get my ball stuck.
[quoted image]

Put a switch there and make that the super-duper-secret skill shot.

#3766 11 months ago
Quoted from dougPDX:

Can anyone point me toward a good maintenance guide? AIQ is my first pin, and I'd sure appreciate a bit of mentorship on proper maintenance before I spread turtle wax all over the inside in hopes of keeping the play flowing smoothly... Thanks!

Most important waxing rule: don't use liquid waxes. They contain petroleum distillates that can degrade your playfield over time. Try to get as much carnuba as possible in your wax.

I use P21S, apply it and let it sit a few minutes, then use some cheap harbor freight red shop cloths to take it off. I finish with a lambswool bonnet on a cordless drill to polish it to a shine I will regret for 15 games or so as the ball travels at hyper speed until the surface calms down.

P21S:
amazon.com link »

It looks expensive, but this little tub will last you probably a decade if you're waxing once a month or less.

#3770 11 months ago
Quoted from dougPDX:

Thanks that is helpful - the thought of adding wax was making me a bit uneasy. I've been wiping it down with a dry paper towel - good enough?

I wouldn't recommend a regimen that includes paper towels for playfield care. Microfiber or 100% cotton shop cloths would be my recommendation.

#3779 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

And it gets everywhere. I restored a machine with years and years of liquid wax residue buildup. Every crevice, in the mechs, covering the subway. Yuck.

Yeah, especially like the fact that the P21S doesn't haze like, say, a turtle wax so it's a pretty clean process, on to off.

#3780 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Man ive always used liquid wax on my machines. I guess maybe its time to switch. Lets hear recommendations for specific products?

P21S:
amazon.com link »

#3782 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

I replace the black rubber with Perfect Play or Titan on all my machines. It sheds less.

If you ever restore a machine, polishing out the ball guides to a mirror finish not only looks great, but it reduces steel dust and future ball trails in the guides that are a problem with grained stainless used in all machines. The mirror finish makes them much more resistant to wear.

#3786 11 months ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Holy hell. Why is that link so expensive?
Here is a link for the same amount at a third of the price.
amazon.com link »

Must be some weird currency conversion or shipping cost issue. That P21S is $59.95 USD ($77.22 CAD) at that link. No idea why you're seeing like $200 in Canada. 3 beers and it looks good, eh?

#3788 11 months ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Idk. Amazon is effed. This is what i see when i click on the link.
[quoted image]

Yeah, that's not what you see in the US. It's $59.95USD when I click that link down here in COVID-land.

#3804 11 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Any recommendations or anything I should be concerned about?

As long as you're using a bonnet (covers the sides) and not a disc (just the face), it's pretty foolproof. Don't press hard, just let it glide over the playfield, back and forth to finish off the waxed area. Gives a nice shine without much elbow grease.

#3898 11 months ago
Quoted from Meegis:

some people are saying that Stern has started putting washers on at the factory before they ship. Wouldn't this cause the same issue as the rail being jammed into the clear coat? Instead of just one flat edge it's now a circle?
I guess I'm just confused because I really don't know how bad this clear coat issue can be. Or am I really underestimating something so tiny?

The washer has smooth edges. The ball guide has sharp edges. The washer is back from the end and on a post so there's little to no flex movement. The ball guide end, however, shifts a little from the ball hitting it - out and back, out and back, over and over all game long. It's like taking a pocket knife and scraping the same area over and over when the end of the guide is laid right on the clear. The washer prevents that.

#3903 11 months ago
Quoted from Meegis:

I understand that some of them are bad. I have seen some, but I am looking at mine and thinking do I need to put in a washer? I can hardly even tell that there is any pooling at all.

Pooling isn't the only problem as long as that sharp 90 degree edge of that soulless, godless, slightly flexible stainless steel ball guide has contact with the playfield. As the ball moves along the guide, it will make the guide flex, and it will scratch that end little by little, over and over, game by game until you have a problem much harder to repair than adding a washer and/or installing mylar preventatively now.

#3909 11 months ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Anyone know if there is a reason why all lights on topper don’t reset after you finished the game? Seems like it is collecting them? I reset to factory settings, they are all off and as soon as I play one game and collect a couple they just stay lit up for the rest of the games?
[quoted image]

You didn't buy the Dr. Strange Mystic Light Reset Topper DLC. That's another $499 expansion for the topper.

(It's likely a bug. I've emailed it to Keith. Do you have the latest code installed?)

#3912 11 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I think the topper collects the gems across multiple games and when you collect the sixth, you do get a new mode.
With that said - I don't have the topper to confirm, but remember hearing this.

Weird, but that dovetails with the current Stern DLC-centric topper marketing, so probably it. Has anyone streamed the new mode?

#3914 11 months ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Ok! It’s a Multiball. STONE FURY MULTIBALL.

Has anyone streamed this yet? My Pro's already gone. I'd like to see it. What are the objectives?

#3928 11 months ago
Quoted from toddmann:

Anyone else getting airballs from the rollover switch on the black panther orbit? Some shots make it all the way up the ramp in the back, but others do not and I’ve tracked it down to this issue.
[quoted image]

It looks like it's due to the guide on the left being a little off. It sends the ball too much sideways, where it encounters the edge of the switch wire, and since it's moving slightly across the wire instead of over it, it catches air. I'd loosen the 3 or so screws (posts under the PF, too) for the guide and push in the ball guide a little, then re-tighten. If that doesn't work, do the opposite. I think your guide is the issue, based on that video.

#3929 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

random question not only AIQ related. In newer Stern/JJP games are their any batteries or anything that need to be replaced? if so how often and how? My oldest game is a 2018 so I have time, but I just started thinking about this. thanks!

Button battery on the CPU board. You'll know it when it's time to replace.

#3934 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

OK but it wont spill acid and stuff like the old school ones?
When you say Ill know it Im guessing buttons and stuff just wont feel right?

The button batteries are lithium and manganese. Same used on computer motherboards for decades. I've never seen a leaking one.

When I say you'll know, it may forget settings, etc - that's all.

#3938 11 months ago
Quoted from Jack8765:

Is there supposed to be something on this post?
[quoted image]

Nope. That's the correct configuration. No post sleeve there.

#3955 11 months ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Did not mate

Didn’t make as much progress as I would have liked but here is a video or Rock Fury Multiball.

Awesome, thanks!

#3963 11 months ago
Quoted from toddmann:

I believe you are correct in that it is related to the ball guide. After looking closely at that area the ball guide is in a little too far or the U-guide post is sticking too far out (what is the proper term for that type of guide?). What do think the best approach is, trying to move that guide out or trying to move the U-guide post in?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't think you can move the U post due to the barbed end and the fact that it's drilled through. You might be able to bend it over on top a bit, but that's a dangerous game. I'd work on adjusting the ball guides before that to stop the ball from going side to side in the first place. There's no concrete answer for which to adjust first, it will be trial and error. Stern's production line QA extends to your home.

#3971 11 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

What’s everyone’s solution for this mega obvious ball trap???? Can’t believe they haven’t picked up on this at the factory. Happening almost every multiball with me.[quoted image]

If there's a screw point to the left of where that ball is trapped (can't tell from that angle), you can put a 2" rubber over the ramp support to the right and add a post to the left of the ball (if there's a screw point) and have the rubber close that whole area below the glove off.

#3994 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeguy123:

So I just got my high score. I had 2 gems and just about to acquire a 3rd gem. I somehow went into Black Order Multiball for the first time and was kicking Ass. Then.......It says I Tilted!!! (which i didn't as I am not good at that yet) and I lost all the points. Still finished with 272 mill but would have had much more. This is the first time it has ever said I tilted? Still makes me want to try again. Also, I have never come close to getting the Soul Gem yet (5 of 8 is my best).

How tight is your plumb bob set in the cabinet?

#3996 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeguy123:

I have played 200 games and never even been warned about tilting (i don't really shake the game). My wife was watching this game and she immediately asked why it said TILT.

Do you have a shaker motor? I can see a case for a really tight bob and successive closely spaced shaker pulses causing it to make contact and tilt. That's why I asked.

Then again, it could just be a software bug...

#4008 11 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Pinmonk has a good option to fix this. I used a twist tie to secure the top of the plastic to the wireform behind to pull it close and straight. Totally out of sight. I also added 1/2" spacers to lift the top plastic and allow the "Extra Ball" to be seen.

Yeah, the sign needs help to stay straight. It's just not a great design as-is. The little bracket I made that comes with the Mystic Bezel set does the job. It is the hardest part of the install because the work space is so small in there, but totally worth it. Here's a pic of it that the artist used as reference for the drawn install instructions...
Step 6_sml (resized).jpg

#4016 11 months ago
Quoted from Sly_Old_Devil:

Well, took just under a week for my subway mech to fail at the infamous weld spot...have put the subway into bypass mode and raised a call with disty/stern this afternoon (disty has already replied to me which is great).
What a game, has that "one more go" factor in spades, it is definitely in a league of its own.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like you could probably fix it yourself with a 6-32 machine screw, a spacer, a couple washers and a lock nut.

#4018 11 months ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Yes [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Screw's way too long, but other than that, well done! I'd do this way before disabling the subway for weeks or months waiting for a mech.

#4020 11 months ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

oh yes you are right but I only had that one of screw..but it works well I did about 200 games no issue

I didn't get too hung up on the aesthetics and keyposted your fix. Should help people as they continue breaking.

#4023 11 months ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I have an uneven disk, one side is higher and the other is lower than the playflied. slow rolling balls from the pops get affected and sometimes i get airballs.
anyone has a fix for me?

Check the topic index at the top of any page in this thread. There are at least two different links to fixes for this issue. One requires a warranty kit from Stern. Note that the graphics on the posts you find are pdfs. Click on them to open the documents.

#4025 11 months ago