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Just updated to 1.01. Not sure but afterwards, I am having some issues with my subway.
When the ball falls in, the pin loses track of it. I tried to test the subway entry opto and the light will go off when I break the signal but the switch does not activate in the test. I don't hear any sounds.
Any ideas?
20210909_153516 (resized).jpg20210909_153519 (resized).jpg
Quoted from awesome1:Also - if you just updated code and the problem started then - make sure you didn't accidentally load PRO code.
Thanks awesome1 !
You are right. In my hurry to update, I picked the wrong code. I am such an idiot. It was driving me crazy too! Sometimes you just can't see the most obvious errors. Thanks again!
Just installed 1956PINHEAD Dr. Strange Disc Mod.
A quick review- It's an excellent product. Instructions were a little daunting for a noob like me, but 1956pinhead was great at helping me out. And I set a new RPM record so that makes it all good.
241650901_414515446692466_594452108926781707_n (resized).jpgFor those that have attempted to level the Dr Strange Disc, when I do it it's either just slightly higher than the pf or slightly lower.
If I had to choose between the two, is it better to have it slightly more sunken?
Quoted from Sleal16:With it being adjusted by a thread turn on the bushing carrier, you should be able to get it close to perfect to alight the disc to the round frame. If need be, you can make a little marker notch so you can know how much you adjusted it every time. I would give it a small turn, then check up top on the pf with a flat edge. I would repeat the process till it's just about perfect (guess super sightly below might be preferred). I would then put a small mark on the carrier and the ring that it's being threaded into, so that when you tighten the bigger ring to lock it, you can move it back in place if it shifts. That for me was the hardest part was to keep it in the same position as i put the last part back on.
You hit the nail on the head. I have it perfectly level and then when I go tighten it, it messes it up ever so slightly.
Quoted from Tippyroad:Just in case anyone is interested, I just received an updated walk lock mechanism for the portal Subway system. Just figured I'd throw some pics on here so people can see how Stern updated it. I was having issues with one of my fingers not retracting all the way and my game would kick out portal locked balls before I entered the gem quest.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
How did you order one?
Quoted from Bundy:Probably warranty from dealer.
Can I just order one directly from Stern without going through dealer? If so, anyone know how?
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:email [email protected]. He will want your serial number and a description of the problem. You can also start here https://sternpinball.com/support/contact-us/ which creates a ticket in their system I believe. Goes right to Pablo as well.
Most warranty items you can get directly from stern. Big issues or things like node boards they will want your distributor involved.
Awesome! Thx!
Quoted from cooked71:Has anyone had experience with this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1341-precision-pinball-prod/05285-dr-strange-disc-mod-kit
Im sure its been spoken about in here somewhere but cant find it.
My experience:
Pardon my ignorance.
Can someone please explain how RPMs are calculated on Dr. Strange? How does the machine know how many rotations?
I understand how it counts the rotations on a spinner like the Hulk. But I don't quite understand how it does it on the Dr. Strange disc.
Quoted from Sleal16:Not sure on the exact method it uses (electronics wise), but theres a magnetic sensor at the bottom of the assembly, in which the rod is also magnetic. So when it rotates, I guess the software counts the amount of times it toggles the sensor. It'll grab the first second or so of spins and fit it in the "per minute" math to calculate how many rotations it would have gotten if it maintained its initial velocity throughout a whole minute. For the sake of RPM, thats about it. From then it'll still count rotations while its spinning to tally up score/etc but wont really tie in with the RPM math. The number ends up being a little arbitrary.
Thanks for the info.
I guess I am more curious on the electronic part of the process. How does the magnetic sensor count the spinning? I am hoping someone way smarter than me can dumb it down and explain it.
Quoted from awesome1:No new RPM record yet, but did get all gems, defeated Thanos, reached Trophy Mania and got my new high of 660M in Super Victory Laps last night on my way to a 3.88B game (my 3rd highest)!
[quoted image]
You are my hero.
Quoted from Sleal16:Till someone can explain it better, this page has some good briefs and illustrations:
https://www.akm.com/us/en/products/rotary-encoder/angle-sensor/
Very informative. I am trying to see if I can make any adjustments to it. I feel like I am ripping that disc and my RPMs aren't as high as I would have imagined.
I am in the 500 to 600s. When I first installed the Dr Strange mod, I got up to 1300s. I assumed that would be a common occurrence. But in 20 games or so games since, I have yet to break 800.
Perhaps the sensor is too close. I heard that it needs to be a credit card thickness distance between sensor and bottom of rod. Mine is pretty close.
Quoted from Xenon75:Could I ask a favor of the owners with a stern topper please? Mine is totally dead, I want to verify all of the wiring. Could I please ask for picture of the cabling in the head and in the actual topper where the 3 boards are please? The back of the topper might be useful as well if something came loose. The box was in rough shape, so I need a little help please.
Here is the cabling in the backbox. The 3 boards are tough to get a pic of as it's a very tight space.
20211001_111628 (resized).jpg20211001_111656 (resized).jpgFinally Beat Thanos! Thanks to all who posted instructional videos and tips. No way could I have figured it out by myself.
I also recently changed out the right flipper assembly. Not sure if that had anything to do with it, but it didn't hurt!
244440331_836705907018187_4316415481696105604_n (resized).jpgJust curious what everyone is getting for field strength on their Dr Strange disc. Mine varies from 490 to 525.
I know the manual recommends above 300. Does anyone have theirs setup higher than 550?
Quoted from awesome1:New best for me on Soul Gem Hard: 27 Flips to Spare 240 Million!
Level 1 Mind Gem
Remind me never to play you on AIQ.
CONGRATS!
Quick question:
When I go for the power gem, I know the middle red arrow shot does the most damage. However in a couple of games, I have noticed the Marvel ramp shot is white with the 2 red arrows on each side. Any idea why it doesn't give me the option to hit a more damaging shot?
I thought I understood the combo system. Please explain a little more. Are you saying I should hit marvel (when it's white) and then hit a red arrow or another white arrow in power gem quest.
Quoted from awesome1:After a shot to qualify a combo - shots will light white to show you what shots are available to combo. Not sure that the white overrides the red for Power gem quest (don't think it does). If you had Iron Man or Thor multiball also going, those arrows would also light, creating a lot of lit shots. Maybe that's what happened?
That's what is confusing me too. I didn't think a combo shot would override the red for Power gem either. I checked the RGB lighting for the ramp. It works perfectly. So maybe it does. Thanks!
Quoted from Damonator:Thank you SirSnarf for the awesome detailing on my AIQ Gauntlet! It looks incredible!!!
[quoted image]
Nice! How long did you have to wait? I am seriously considering it.
Quoted from Nacman:Can you reveal the paint used for this. Looks Awesome!! What about the Jewels?
-Nac
I wish I had the ability to do it. I purchased at a convention. Sorry.
Quoted from awesome1:When I pull the playfield forward to lift up or just rest on the rails, I'll push it back until it hits the "stop" and then reach in the back to lift the playfield up and over to slide the rest of the way in.
I know some people just push really hard to jump up over the stop, but that always felt weird to me.
Totally agree. It always seemed odd to me to shove a playfield back into place. After I came to the realization I should just lift it over the hump, I was much more at ease pulling the playfield out knowing that I didn't have to shove it back in.
I am printing a few handles as we speak.
Quoted from gumnut01:After rebuilding the flippers adjusting EOS switches and still hardly making the BW and CM ramps I was really starting to hate this game. It was becoming a chore. At last got a pinball repairer to see what I had done wrong. He changed the flipper rubbers to perfect plays and sprayed not silicon bees wax furniture polish on the playfield. I had polished it but he said the polishes sometimes leave silica build up. Fixed it. Plays like new. I think this game needs this sort of maintenance more than any other game. Shooting those ramps like it’s on steroids. Became a fun game again.
This is the first I have heard of spraying furniture wax on a playfield. Is this a tech secret? Anyone else doing this?
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:I 3d print washers like that, but it's the same result. Cool and easy idea, helps to avoid a lot of work!
Are you willing to share an stl file?
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:First week of playing a lot of AIQ. The lit gem carryover on the topper taught me I have trouble collecting the space and time gems. Well, I still need the time gem. Is this normal or am I just a bad player? How frequently do you collect these gems in a game?
Space and Time are the most difficult for me to collect as well.
I can collect the other ones with decent regularity. With the topper, I would say I finish all the gems typically within 2 or 3 games.
I love the Capt Marvel Ramp. I can hit that all day and be happy.
Quoted from pixelpete:Thanks! I typically don't sell the mods. I'm not really in to the production side of things, but I'd be glad to share the 3D print file so you can make your own.
Yes. Please share your stl file.
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