Purchased my Premium yesterday and now anxiously awaiting arrival. My distributor said they ship next week - has anyone else heard the same thing?

I plan to commission it at home, tweak it, tune it, wax it, etc. and then put it on location at the Riverside Game Lab (Riverside, CA) about Halloween time IF we're allowed to have the arcade open (don't get me started).

I'm excited about going back thru all 22 pages of this thread to learn more about what you're all experiencing so far.

Can we get a picture where you apply? Obviously you can't cover the switch not can you raise the ball too high so the switch wont activate. I've had cliffies cause the switch not to activate.

Where are you putting this felt?

Is this causing a logic and play problem or is it only causing the ball to not be in the subway window?

Call your distributor first and get the glass from them or at least get direction on your next step.

If all else fails, my distributor, OC Pinball, sells glass for $60 (sometimes less). I just picked up 6 sheets.

I should have known this since I have an LE coming next week. You're right, the best price I've seen for invisiglass is $200. I'd pursue the heck out of a replacement.

Yes. If you read many of the post in this thread, owners are making adjustments, sharing their adjustments, and moving on. I's a pinball machine. Only major issues (scratched invisiglass for example) or broken parts of major concern.\

If you end up getting your LE this will be the place to learn how to adjust and enjoy it.

What type of playfield "protector" are you considering?
Will you game be HOU? I wouldn't worry about any additional protection except for maybe a shooter lane and scoop cliffy.
The traditional playfield protector is a nightmare to put on and changes how the game plays. I wouldn't recommend it for a second.

In my GB Premium, instead of changing the bulb color I placed a small (just larger then the insert) piece of colored gel plastic between the bulb and the insert (bottom of playfield of course). I used near by already-installed-screws or tape to keep the gel (cello) in place. I matched the colors to the mode or the area of the playfield. I receive tons of compliments on the matching colors. You don't have to buy in bulbs or board mounted SMDs, you can switch colors and try new ones and it's all easily removable later.

Example of what I used but there are many choices: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Transparent-Plastic-Correction/dp/B06VT87HRZ/ref=sr_1_2

Please tell me that the .92 update fixed the two-balls in the subway issue is really fixed? Has someone played on new code and verified ?

Joined the club with LE #442 (still waiting on my pro for location). We’re having a blast playing and learning the rules. A special guest put up that 1.377B game, he blew AIQ up. He got to Black Order Battle Royal and had 6 gems. Thanos wizard mode did not start. End of ball bonus was crazy high.

Items to note:
We had two fix the subway, reverse ramp and three sticky-balls.

Game is on factory settings for solenoid strength, .92 code with bubble between the two lines, level side to side.

Subway - ball would get stuck (1 of 20) times after last finger / right before VUK. The plastic trough long middle hole did not have the taper you see on other playfield switch grooves. See how your in-lane switch playfield hikes have a taper at the end of the groove? The subway doesn’t. I lifted playfield, removed VUK mech and used a small round file to cut same groove used in Playfields. Fixed.

Reserve ramp - Ball was flying off reserve r ramp (full plunge ramp) most the time. as someone suggested, simply bent the wire run end piece toward the back of cab - fixed.

Stucky ball 1 - between Avenger Building and pop bumper (picture). Had to remove glass to release. I added a small piece of adhesive rubber - the type you may find in a car door seal. Fixed.

Stucky ball 2 - as you know, some full plunges or auto plunges get a little crazy. The ball would wedge between Thanos Gauntlet and the plastic. Had to remove glass to release. Used same automotive adhesive rubber to stop it. Fixed.

Stucky ball 3 - skill shot roll over. Ball sticks on rollover. Appears insert needs to be pounded upward. Since these inserts are not put in place until after clear coat and decals, they sometimes not inserted far enough. Pounded in slightly from under playfield - fixed.

Love the game. Great job Keith and Stern crew. Okay, back to playing IAQ.

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$10 mod for LE owners. Yellow T-molding in the back box.

I kept the original black T-mold but thought since the day we unboxed, the back box should be yellow.

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I added a groove at the end of the subway (in the plastic) to fix a problem I had. It's a different problem then most are having with the prongs. My issue was that the ball would sometimes get hung up at the end of the trough before the VUC. I used a small round file and made a groove like you see in your in-lane switch grooves.

I have TWO questions about alignments.

1. Black Panther outer loop returns used to hit the rubber on the exit post and cause random bounces, sometimes drains but NEVER would the ball go to the right flipper. Where is the Black Panther loop suppose to go? Right flipper or somewhere else? I bent our the lane metal and now ball goes to right flipper.

2. Magnet lock drop from Avenger's Tower rolls past upper right flipper and SDTM (drain between flippers) nearly all the time. I rotated upper right flipper clockwise and now the ball goes to left flipper. Where does a Avenger's Tower ball suppose to go? Left flipper?

You probably know this but in general when two balls are served it is normally your shooter lane switch which needs adjustment (90% of the time). Otherwise its you tough optos (not always going bad, sometimes balls that are magnetized will confuse the optos because they wont roll down to VUK).

I had the same stucky ball (under the gauntlet). I placed a piece of black foam between plastic and bottom of gaunlet.

Let's face it, this game is crazy during multi balls, and there's so many of them. That auto-launch is working over time and will certainly have some bad launches now and then. Make sure your auto-plunger is aligned (centered on a ball). You can also narrow the shooter lane (ramp area before gauntlet) with a long short piece of plexi/plastic to "guide" the ball straight. I haven't needed it on AIG but have used it on three of my other pins.

Anyone see the NEW Pinball Life AIG "post mod"?

https://www.pinballlife.com/avengers-infinity-quest-outlane-post-mod.html

For frustrated home users like me?

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I adjusted my shooter rod last night due the same problem. I thought my rod was dialed in but was able to tune it a hair better and now manual plunges make it smoothly around the entire ramp to the right in lane, no issues. In my case I needed to slightly move the shooter rod assembly to the right. Before the fix, when I would push in on the shooter rod, the rod tip would not hit the ball on center. Lift the playfield, remove the two hex screws (I did not reinstall mine - they're used as locking screws only) and loosen the three main Philips screws - loosen them enough to move the shooter rod assembly left/right. I moved it, lowered playfield, tested, moved and tested until the ball would plunge smoothly to right inlane. Wish I would have done it sooner.

Cointaker has one.

I have the exact same issue originally noted by a Top 10 ranked player when playing my AIQ LE. I didn't want to believe it but as time went on it got a little more obvious. I'm not sure what to do. Have you contacted Stern? Have you sent them the pictures? I really don't want a new unpopulated playfield - that's a solution that will never make it in to the game. After a gazillion plays I guess I'm getting use to it - the warpage is part of the game.... but I refuse to accept it and am happy that maybe we can work together.