I’m sorry, to be clear it does move freely by hand. The diagnostic screen does not show RPM or angle changing. I did search the thread and I could not find anything explaining how to adjust but after I eat dinner I will try and look again. Thank you

And I’ve also noticed if I have the game on and spin it by hand the spin arrow lights on the playfield to light up.

Not obvious from the title, but check out the PDF in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-avengers-infinity-quest-owners-thread-pinsiders-assemble/page/36#post-5924517. p3 has the adjustment procedure for the disc. If that doesn't work, might be an issue with the board. Maybe try moving the board as close to the shaft as it'll go?

Thank you. The disc is perfectly level. When I manually spin in game play it it registers appropriately and collects the “strange” letters, and activates gem collection. The three arrows in front of it light appropriately.

OK, I think I get it now. I realize it is not motorized. It’s just not spinning when it gets hit by a pinball. Does not seem to be binding, it just doesn’t spin very easily. I will see if there’s something underneath that I can adjust to loosen it up.

But I still don’t understand what the disc test does or how to activate or interpret it.

The position of the peg is important if you want a good spin. Shooting from the lower flippers, it's best to have the peg near the 3 or 9 o'clock positions. If it's near 12 or 6 o clock and you hit it head-on, the force of the ball doesn't translate to rotational force, it's driven into the mech itself. You have to hit the peg at an angle that converts the ball's energy to rotational action.

From the upper flipper, you want the peg around 5 o'clock... you can really rip a massive spin if you hit it correctly. If the peg is too close to the upper flipper, you won't get much rotation. If the peg is at 5 o'clock and you need a good spin (reality mode, etc), it's sometimes best to shoot right ramp and setup an upper flipper shot instead of shooting directly.

You should be able to flip it easily, and have it spin at least a couple revolutions - it should NOT be difficult to spin. In terms of the diagnostics, there's one key value:
FS = field strength - number of posts in this thread on the subject. Basically rotate the spinner to Noon, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock. Hit "select" at each position and note the FS value. Ideally you'll get over 500 in FS for each value. Technically, I'm in the low 400's on a couple, but it's working for me. Reference the PDF link noted above on adjusting the sensor closer (but not too close) in order to increase the FS value.

Thank you. This is what I needed to know. I will do the test tomorrow and see what values I get.

My modded out LE arrives tonight, pretty excited. Was gonna go for GnR but with the wait people are experiencing, I figure I'll check back on that after the holidays.

Just a random chatter question while I'm killing time for it to show up, what's your opinion on letting pins adjust to room temp before turning on? It's cold out there tonight, 21F currently, and has been in a trailer for close to 24 hrs, albeit in blankets. Would you give it more adjusting time than the 30-60 mins to set up? Some people seem to go overboard with this (6 hours, I once heard!). I'd imagine a rainy or humid day is a bigger issue than dry cold, but I dunno.

After seeing the photo of the washer under the mystery scoop guide, I decided to have a look at mine...

Looks like the guide was tightened before the clear cured, so there's now an indentation, and a raised bubble.

What do you guys think?

PXL_20201119_044715539~2 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201119_044715539~3 (resized).jpg

Yeah, I’d get a washer under it ASAP. Looks like it was tightened down too hard...

Anyone know what needs to be taken apart to get that guide up?

I tired just taking out the nut on that bolt right by where the clear coat bubble is, but the rail barely budged.

Iron it with yelobird's vinyl iron method and then get mylar over it and a washer on the guide ASAP.

I haven't tried blue Loctite but your bushing issue is identified at Stern. A kit is available under the reference 502-8001-R2.

If it's there, it should be under standard adjustments. Something like "Q24 option" and "Knocker Volume"

Can you link me to this?

Also, anyone know what need to be unscrewed/removed to get this guide?

It's all here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

There’s a post pt two going through the playfield attached to the bottom of the guide that need the nut taken off the underside of the playfield. Then it should lift out.

Get some painter's tape and tape both sides of the playfield down before you carefully lift the guide out so you have the best chance of keeping that blob on the playfield and not being pulled up with the guide...

Check both sides of the THOR captive ball for the same issue as well.

3 spots on this game to check that I noticed while removing my Ant-man guide to add a washer under the guide,

Ant-Man guide being the most effected!

The 2 guides on either side of the Thor captive ball!

At the end of the shooter lane there is a guide that holds down the shooter lane guide check there as well.

I had super small pooling in all those areas but so far I've only fixed ant-man none of the other areas seem to be getting worse and they are tiny areas effected.

Yep, when I first got my game I identified those same spots and the screws under the apron as most likely trouble spots for this issue. I was able to get washers under the right hand side of the captive ball and the apron, but initially missed the location of the Ant Man nut until you pointed me to it a couple weeks ago. I put a couple fiber washers stacked up under there now though.

I still can't find a nut under the playfield to loosen the left side of the captive ball and sneak a washer under there. Am I missing the nut there also for some reason? It seems like whatever post is at the end of the guide on that side isn't going through the playfield though. It's definitely a spot I'd like to put a washer under but I really don't want to have to remove the entire Marvel ramp to lift the guide and do it.

I just loosened the nuts for the captive ball, they where wrenched down by he-man! And put the washer under ant-man as that guide takes a pounding, at least it does when it’s the one shot I need or want to make

Stupid thing about all this, is stern just need to put washers under these guides as they build the games on the line and they would probably get like 90% less pooling issues from customers

late to the party' #Finally

20201119_175746607_iOS (resized).jpg

i just took a closer look at my game and saw just a tiny sliver of clear bubbling up at the ant man guide. Took it out and put a washer underneath. My thor guide looks fine, but while i was at it, I also put a washer under the front mount of the right thor guide. I'll never have an issue now. I don't know why they don't do this at the factory. I'll be keeping an eye on the other guides.

Yep, and they did seem to learn some lessons from JP2 to AIQ by cutting the bottoms of the ball guides so that in most spots the bottom of the guide is no longer touching the playfield. Even at the left side of the entrance to the Hulk spinner the bottom of the guide is cut at the end so it's off the playfield, so that was definitely a step in the right direction. All they need to do now for a next step is identify spots like the Ant Man guide and the captive ball guides to see where there's a screw near the end of the guide that will make the guide dig into the playfield and put a washer there. That seems like it will resolve pretty much any remaining issues of playfield scraping. Looks like from the posting above they started to do that now at the Ant Man hole, so fingers crossed they'll start to do this proactively now.

I posted this image back in the days of the JJP POTC playfield issues as a laugh. This was when Yelobird originally came up with this solution. I still have mine, and will need to use it on the Antman area before putting a washer down. I already know this actually works great. Been dealing with pooling on playfields for a couple years now unfortunately.

Pinball Iron (resized).jpg

Folks be gentle with me here, but can someone help me understand the gravity of this pooling situation? Is it just cosmetic, or are there actual long term issues? Is it simply the expectation when you're throwing down this kind of money that you'd expect a little more attention to detail?

I don't even have enough washers laying around to resolve all of the pooling issues I have.
PoolingIsssues (resized).png
I'm all for tinkering with my 13 year old SM, but I'm pretty pissed that I've had to:
- reinstall the Strange Spinner pin (fell out)
- level the Strange Spinner
- adjust the Strange Spinner sensor
- put 6-7 washers around PYM and Thor...

on a game with 30 plays...

It's cosmetic. It's not like an issue with a mech where it impacts game play, unless a chip develops in the path of the ball.

But while it doesn't impact game play it can lead to noticeable eyesores in the artwork around the playfield. Part of the enjoyment of a machine and part of a determination of the condition of a machine is the artwork, and part of the enjoyment & value of any item involves the condition of the item. If you have a couple of old bicycles to pick from and one has a bunch of scratches and chipped paint while the other is in better condition, the one in better condition is the one most people would choose because it's more appealing (and therefore it has held its value better). If a machine ends up with a bunch of chipped and scraped spots in the art around the playfield, it comes across as not being as appealing to the current owner for aesthetic or resale value purposes. So there's an element of seeing an eyesore while you're playing and an element of losing resale value due to condition.

Mechanical stuff can be adjusted or replaced to put the machine into great condition. Artwork can't be repaired nearly as easily, so if there's a choice between having a mechanical issue to resolve vs. an issue with artwork or playfield I'll take the mechanical issue every time. Just my opinion though.

Thanks for the explanation @eaglepin. And just to confirm, there is no recourse with Stern on this, correct? (Apologies if I'm dredging up old topics from previous machines.)

Heading off to Home Depot to buy out their entire inventory of 1/2" washers...<sigh>

It's confusing that Stern opts for this approach vs. (what seems to be an easy solve of) placing washers on every post by default.)

Should I even ask if people are getting a lot of dimples? (Feel like this is the 3rd rail of pinball.)

That I wouldn't know. I'd guess that it would be case by case discussion on an individual basis through your distributor and Stern.

After my experiences with POTC, JP2, and now AIQ it seems like it's just natural that there are going to be some mechanical or fitment issues that will pop up on machines (POTC was far worse for me than JP2 or AIQ). It would definitely be nice if some of the things that seem obvious like the level of the disc were noticed before they ship, but as long as they do a good job issuing adjustments and fixes when necessary then I'm good with it and so far they seem to be addressing any issues that are popping up pretty well. It seems like they're moving in the right direction on playfield issues too.

So I've had my premium for a couple weeks now. I absolutely love this game.

I was wondering... in the soul gem quest, why don't they flash the green beacon over the drop targets to indicate when you have to hit that one? It took me a few times to notice, and then I noticed there's a green beacon above there. They should flash that to indicate drop bank is next in the quest... seems like a missed opportunity.

I've had a few reoccurring issues that I was wondering if anyone else had.

1) The hulk spinner didn't register at first because the metal just didn't click the spinner sensor. I bent the wire a bit and it fixed the issue for a while, but it looks like it was a temporary solution. I've taken out the spinner apparatus and it doesn't seem like there's a lot of wiggle room there in terms of perhaps moving a sensor or piece of metal to make things a little tighter.

2) The opto in the metal section behind the avenger tower (strong right orbit hit) wasn't registering when I first got it. I managed to move the opto board on the Avenger-tower side by loosening a screw and nudging the board and tightening at a different location, but it seems to get out of sorts after about a day or two again. It's a particularly tough area to work in. I can get to both opto boards, and they appear to work correctly. It seems to be an alignment issue. I was just wondering if anyone else has run into this and found a good solution.

I haven't had a problem with dimpling on my AIQ (or JP2). And for me on AIQ that's REALLY saying something because I've played the bejeezus out of it and it has tons of airballs.

#297 finally made it to Sweden

C6691131-06EE-48D3-A682-D453EDFBA5CF (resized).jpeg

I've owned a lot of games and have never encountered that. Sure, it's aesthetic, but it looks awful. You should send those photos to Stern.

Sorry you are having to deal with this on a NIB game.

Yes I am getting dimples. And I love each and every one of them individually. That’s my way to cope with their inevitability...

So this is normal and I should embrace my inner-dimple?
DimplesAIQ (resized).png

Embrace it.

How long did it take to make that picture? Haha

I did find it therapeutic... "Snag-it" rocks for this type of thing - about 1 min for my artwork. Perhaps I should blow it up and hang it.

Sounds like great arcade art to me

Yep got it.
Standard adjustment #57.
Maybe I’ll put the knocker in tonight or tomorrow
Thanks

You need to turn the knocker volume off on the other adjustment, I think, to silence the screech you won't need if you have a real knocker.

Yes. I ordered at the end is Sept, and got it the end of Oct. Mine is a pro.

Maybe swap out the metal balls for plastic ones?

So I'm going to take this Ant-Man guide off over the weekend if I get some time, and while I'm in there, I'm going to look to protect the edges of that scoop. I'm sure if you look at your game, you'll see there is some wear starting on the exposed edges of the wood, as is to be expected.

Was thinking to maybe just go with simple mylar, or perhaps get in touch with Cliffy and get him to whip something up like I did with the lock hole on my AFM.

Before I get the guide up, want to know if this is the right set to buy with the heating tool:

https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-80902-Vinyl-Leather-Repair/dp/B000VL590O/ref=sr_1_7

It's tough to tell from the photos, but the promo video does show the tool in it.

Also, what washers should I use when I get it up? Metal, vinyl, fabric?

Looks like our Aussie container of Avengers pins will be delayed a bit longer now due to the industrial action last month at the ports. Hopefully they are only a week of so away though.

Exact issue with my playfield, please let me know how it goes. Good luck.

This is the one I got (but not from Amazon canada):
https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-81781-Ultra-Leather-Repair/dp/B0007TQWK6/

Permatex #81781

I think you're looking for the "professional electric heat tool" in the description. The other one says "heat transfer tool" which I don't think is the same.