Quoted from Sluggo39:Seems odd to install the nuts and not the handle, that’s beyond cheap
The crazy thing is that it is shown on a drawing in the manual.
Quoted from Sluggo39:Seems odd to install the nuts and not the handle, that’s beyond cheap
The crazy thing is that it is shown on a drawing in the manual.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Titans customer service is great, I'm sure they'll be happy to replace it.
Definetly. Contact us through our website and we'll get you taken care of.
When installing flipper rubber you should always "unload" the tip. This means after the rubber is on the flipper, pinch the rubber and push it towards the tip of the flipper bat to slack the tip of the rubber as much as possible. It will also help to rotate all of the rings once a month or so depending on the playing time.
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:The crazy thing is that it is shown on a drawing in the manual.
I think I’ll call my distributor maybe it was an oversight
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:Definetly. Contact us through our website and we'll get you taken care of.
When installing flipper rubber you should always "unload" the tip. This means after the rubber is on the flipper, pinch the rubber and push it towards the tip of the flipper bat to slack the tip of the rubber as much as possible. It will also help to rotate all of the rings once a month or so depending on the playing time.
Oh Great another maintenance thing i have to do for my machines
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:The crazy thing is that it is shown on a drawing in the manual.
They forgot to install it. I’d get with your distro to get one.
Quoted from chuckwurt:They forgot to install it. I’d get with your distro to get one.
There was some discussion a week or so ago and nobody seemed to have one.
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:There was some discussion a week or so ago and nobody seemed to have one.
They should have it though. It’s not an optional accessory. Haha
Quoted from chuckwurt:They should have it though. It’s not an optional accessory. Haha
I wonder if there was a screw up and a whole bunch are missing it. A buddy just received a premium built on Oct 28. I’ll see if his has it and report back.
Checked with my buddy. October 28 build date. No handle.
His subway is different from mine. There is a slot cut at the end where it meets the VUK to keep the ball centered. Mine is solid and sometimes gets hung up at the VUK.
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:Checked with my buddy. October 28 build date. No handle.
His subway is different from mine. There is a slot cut at the end where it meets the VUK to keep the ball centered. Mine is solid and sometimes gets hung up at the VUK.
This is why I had to contact my distributor to get a new Subway. Stern will send you a replacement one. I just got confirmation today.
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:Definetly. Contact us through our website and we'll get you taken care of.
When installing flipper rubber you should always "unload" the tip. This means after the rubber is on the flipper, pinch the rubber and push it towards the tip of the flipper bat to slack the tip of the rubber as much as possible. It will also help to rotate all of the rings once a month or so depending on the playing time.
Thanks for the tip (pun intended) about pinching, I’ll make sure to do that! I have sent an email through your website’s contact form
It looks like the handle is not listed on the AIQ Back Panel assembly drawing. It is, however, listed on the Jurassic Park Prem Back Panel assembly drawing. The part number for JP is listed as 535-1926-00.
B6ECF642-3E65-4147-9C72-BFCE9BA5E340 (resized).pngDBD1BC26-908B-4C71-8E16-1DDDB821ACF0 (resized).pngI'm considering replacing the rubbers on my premium with Titan rings, and debating between black and clear for the post/slings/etc. How does clear look on this machine? Is using clear for post sleeves a bad idea?
Quoted from zeldarioid:I have sent an email through your website’s contact form
I haven't seen anything yet. Feel free to email direct if you don't hear from us. [email protected]
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:It looks like the handle is not listed on the AIQ Back Panel assembly drawing. It is, however, listed on the Jurassic Park Prem Back Panel assembly drawing. The part number for JP is listed as 535-1926-00.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah if it’s not in the manual you might not have luck getting one free. I assumed it was in both manuals.
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:It looks like the handle is not listed on the AIQ Back Panel assembly drawing. It is, however, listed on the Jurassic Park Prem Back Panel assembly drawing. The part number for JP is listed as 535-1926-00.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I believe there was some discussion of this on another thread, and it was concluded the the item in question is NOT a handle. It's a guard that was placed on JP to protect the motor mechanism on the moving Trex. The bar pushes harnesses back, or keeps the motor mech from being banged into the back of the cab??? I dont know, I just remember reading this. FWIW.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Thanks for all the replies! I’ve been wondering whether perhaps it was due to either the rubber being low bounce (though they are only something like 1mm thinner than the regulars) or perhaps the chance of a bad batch. I’ll reach out to Titan to see what they think, and will see about some standard thickness rubbers there to see if that extra mm (or whatever it is) makes an appreciable difference.
When you fit the Titan flipper band stretch them on over the back of the flipper bat first. This should hekp resolve your issue.
Quoted from 1963BSARGS:It looks like the handle is not listed on the AIQ Back Panel assembly drawing. It is, however, listed on the Jurassic Park Prem Back Panel assembly drawing. The part number for JP is listed as 535-1926-00.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am going to take a guess that handle is there on JP to stop any type of smashing of the TRex mech sticking out the back into the back of the cab when you lower the PF back into the cabinet.
I doubt it is a "handle" to help you remove PF out of cab.
Is there anything on AIQ that would need protecting that is sticking out the rear or PF?
Quoted from CashMoney:This is why I had to contact my distributor to get a new Subway. Stern will send you a replacement one. I just got confirmation today.
Is this “pro active “ or does it have to have broken ?
Quoted from Cobra:I doubt it is a "handle" to help you remove PF out of cab.
Quoted from chuckwurt:[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I could be wrong, but my understanding from Jurassic Park is that the actual part they used as a bumper to protect pieces behind the back panel from getting broken against the back of the cabinet was a handle that Stern already had in their parts inventory. So even though they used that same part as a bumper in JP, in the JP manual it's listed as "handle" because in their existing parts database that's the name and number of the part they used.
It can definitely be handy to use it as a handle to lift the playfield also, but I don't think it's a change in design where you'll see it in all games. I think it'll only show up in games where they want to use that particular part as a bumper/protector behind the backboard.
Quoted from Reefkeep:Odd question for the group, I want to power an LED strip for a homemade topper, I know I can feed off a GI bulb but would prefer something in the back box. Any suggestions?
You're better off pulling it from an unused connector on the coin door interface board that is designed for the load you want to put on it. The board has both 5v and 12v connectors that aren't used in home environments. Tapping into GI with an existing power budget may exceed the power budget and cause node board problems/failures. One word of caution, though. Make SURE you have an inline 1A fuse to protect the board in case something bad happens with the LED topper strip and it shorts out or something.
Quoted from Mando:Is this “pro active “ or does it have to have broken ?
If your ball is getting stuck there then it’s basically a defective subway. You are entitled to get the newly updated one but you have to reach out to your distributor.
Several others have done this as well. I’m just tired of balls getting stuck down there...
Here are some before and after pics of Mods for my Premium. They include the Sanctum, Avengers tower, and ramp LEDs. Before and after pics.
305D1875-98C2-46E0-888F-D3C460385381 (resized).jpeg34893CB7-4AB7-4F48-8440-A69B06B7EEF1 (resized).jpeg393E7DD9-0C9C-4185-87EF-C957A6064F66 (resized).jpeg91AC2ED5-3CCF-419B-998D-56069F2A191B (resized).jpegF09F3EEB-41D6-4546-B6D2-1A93DDBBB9FF (resized).jpegSo I got my premium, but it looks like the upper left opto isn't working. The one that gets hit when you have a strong right orbit shot. Right behind the avengers tower.
Any advice?
Quoted from Crater:So I got my premium, but it looks like the upper left opto isn't working. The one that gets hit when you have a strong right orbit shot. Right behind the avengers tower.
Any advice?
Check your connectors. does it register in test mode? Likely a loose opto
Quoted from Lermods:Check your connectors. does it register in test mode? Likely a loose opto
It doesn't register in the test mode. I've reseated the connectors.
Quoted from Tsskinne:Went to check on my AIQ on location with Titan rubbers. Same story. Weird never seen this happen with Titans before. These were just regular ones. The ones on the flippers seem fine.
[quoted image]
Tip of that flipper gets whacked a lot from
Shots off the right flipper .
Quoted from Mando:Tip of that flipper gets whacked a lot from
Shots off the right flipper .
My maiden upper right flipper (3000+ games) takes its share of hits on the tip. (As does JP i imagine)
Im thinking Titan has a bad batch of their hands and that is causing it to damage easier than normal. Uh oh, mine shipped out today lol.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:My maiden upper right flipper (3000+ games) takes its share of hits on the tip. (As does JP i imagine)
Im thinking Titan has a bad batch of their hands and that is causing it to damage easier than normal. Uh oh, mine shipped out today lol.
I don't know about IM, but JP has the post there protecting the flipper tip. I had Titans on my JP top flipper and had no issue at all
Quoted from Tsskinne:Went to check on my AIQ on location with Titan rubbers. Same story. Weird never seen this happen with Titans before. These were just regular ones. The ones on the flippers seem fine.
[quoted image]
Mine's the same. Titan low bounce. I'm guessing anything is going to be showing wear on that spot though with all the direct hits it takes. I'm constantly hitting it when I miss the Hulk or Tower shots.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I was just going to say, Stern should have put a post there like on JP
Raymond Davidson answered it on a stream saying not having a post there was a design choice by KME.
Quoted from EaglePin:Raymond Davidson answered it on a stream saying not having a post there was a design choice by KME.
I was referring to the post on the right hand side (right orbit). The big rubber on the premium and smaller rubber on the pro for the Marvel shot. Not sure why there's no post by the upper flipper.
I know less than nothing about how Keith's design process works, but I'd be pretty surprised if there wasn't an iteration with it there. Maybe it impacted the feed back, or the hulk shot, or tower shot. An extra half inch of physical objects can make a big difference when things are tight.
Had my best game ever last night, was able to collect 2 gems and also get to the Soul Gem mode but wasn't able to complete it.
I actually did a little dance when I intentionally beat supergiant then went on to beat proxima midnight!
So fun!!
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Had my best game ever last night, was able to collect 2 gems and also get to the Soul Gem mode but wasn't able to complete it.
I actually did a little dance when I intentionally beat supergiant then went on to beat proxima midnight!
So fun!!
I hear ya! I'm getting to the point where I'm almost getting a gem per game and it feels great if I get a 2nd.
So I lifted the Ant-Man guide to try and stop the pooling and avoid chipping, glad I did as it was probably going to get worse and currently it’s very minimal.
Placed the smallest washer I could find under the rail leg, sorry should have paid attention to what washer I used but basically the smallest that would fit on the rails leg, had to screw it on the leg by hand as the thread was tight.
Put everything back on (ramp after ramp after ramp lol) and then gently tightened the rail until it gripped the washer just enough and the guide wasn’t moving.
Chucked about 30 games on it since and it seems to be working perfectly, no interference with the ball and the rail is nicely off the playfield now, fingers crossed it’s done the job. Thought I would post this up Incase it comes in handy for anyone else.
73BD46FE-C2D6-4064-BFBC-ECFC03308E44 (resized).jpegCB5094DF-AB8C-4334-A44F-6AD665D3F3BD (resized).jpeg0A55389E-5A56-4ADD-BA7D-DC14905FED28 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Theguyoverthere:I was referring to the post on the right hand side (right orbit). The big rubber on the premium and smaller rubber on the pro for the Marvel shot. Not sure why there's no post by the upper flipper.
I was responding to Scribble's post in reference to what Heyitsjoebob wrote about not having a post at the tip of the upper flipper. Not having a post at the tip of the upper flipper is what Raymond Davidson said was a design choice.
I joined the club on Tuesday! My first NIB. Build date is October 29.
I’ve been stalking this thread since putting down my deposit in early September. Thanks to all who have posted their experiences here, it really helped me get through the process and be ready for the unboxing!
First off, I am thrilled with this purchase and am still in the early honeymoon phase, so take the rest with a grain of salt or two...
It wasn’t perfect out of the box, and there was one issue in particular that puzzles me; I’d be grateful for views. Upon starting our first game, it was apparent the lower left flipper had less travel than the right. At rest all was good, but when flipped the left bat only went up about 3/4 of the way (ie much flatter than the right). We lifted the pf and discovered that the white plastic piece that actuates the eos switch was impeded by one of the mounting screws so that the plunger link was not against the bracket when at rest (see pic). Has anyone else seen this? We took out the mounting screw for now....works fine. Oh, the right flipper also got loose right away and needed to be adjusted and tightened. I think my flippers were installed by a Stern trainee .
The rest...
Upon inspection, before playing a game, we noticed tiny shiny metal shavings in the left outline area....looks to be coming from the return wire form that is quite rough above that area(hard to capture in a pic).
My disc is slightly off kilter but not enough to try adjusting it before I change the rubbers and wax, etc. I hate to say it but that disc is going to take a beating and is already showing signs of wear.
I needed to adjust the hulk spinner. It was only registering about 4 spins per rip....easy adjustment to bend the switch actuator leaf so that the spinner crank pushed it down more each revolution.
My glass is nicely snug. It stays in place with the lockbar off but slides out with just a bit of tugging.
I have a feeling I will be going through upper flipper rings like crazy. The tip take ALOT of direct hits (I know...play better!). I’ve got Titans ready to go (purple and translucent, not sure yet which I’ll install, I hope I don’t regret not getting blue!).
Only one stuck ball so far but a good shake knocked it loose. No ball drops from the crossover return. The CM ramp takes a strong and accurate shot to make it but the payoff is delightful, I love seeing that ball whip around the loop! The subway has worked 100% flawlessly so far. It has the slot cut right up to the vuk entrance, so I think it is the 2nd generation design. I collected my first soul gem before finally going to bed on Tuesday .
If you made it this far, sorry for the long post!
25C9D0F7-0900-4349-BC67-32377EE108C2 (resized).jpeg30E8D5CF-07F8-4915-91A2-FC8C20F30FA3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Reefkeep:Odd question for the group, I want to power an LED strip for a homemade topper, I know I can feed off a GI bulb but would prefer something in the back box. Any suggestions?
Can you use the service outlet? It's in the lower right of the backbox with the main power supply.
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