Do you have another Spike pin that has that same control sub board you can borrow for an experiment and rewire it in ?

Happy new owner here. The spinning disc should be perfectly flush with the playfield? Not slightly raised?

Should be flush. Might need to adjust it.

good idea, I will check if my stranger things uses the same one

Just joined the club with an NIB Pro! 172 pages to catch up on! Whew!

Planning on adding art blades, quiet fan, cliffy in the lane... Any adjustments or things I need to know? (Already reduced the trough eject power.) Sorry, but 172 pages is a lot!

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Anyone know of “team” play is planned?
What about seeing/shooting Vision in battle/rebattle? Spot for a gem and the green strobe, so…

Yesterday I finally got around to installing 1956PINHEAD ’s Dr. Strange aluminum disc mod. I admit it sat around for many weeks as I was intimidated reading the directions. In the end, it was very very easy to install.

Wow. It makes a huge difference. The disc really flies and its a feeling that combined with ripping a few Black Widow to Captain Marvel combos really amps up the game. My first game after installing, I set the #1 high score after a very very long streak of struggling to put up a meaningful score. It wasn’t all the disc by any means, but I did have a Super Disc + Time Gem sequence that was really fun.

It is a mod that, along with the Mezel Tower mod, the CM ramp mod and the Mezel Dr Strange house mod, is a must add to the game.

New best for me on Soul Gem Hard: 27 Flips to Spare 240 Million!
Level 1 Mind Gem

Remind me never to play you on AIQ.
CONGRATS!

Have computer read it to you as you sleep, you'll take in all information by morning.

Maybe this has been discussed before but I couldn't find anything: I own the Avenegers AIQ Premium and my Strange Disk is a bit loose in this little brass ring. Actually I can move it a bit in all directions and during the game it is not flush with the playfield but bending down to the bottom. I recorded a little video to show you what I mean.

Do you have the same with your machines or is this something I have to fix? I see airballs sometimes as the disk acts like a little ramp this way.

Thanks!

I finally got around to it this weekend as well. The instructions are good and with the posts here I had already bought the mini wrenches and Xacto knife.
The results are staggering, you barely touch it and it spins like there is no tomorrow. I'm really happy with the result!

Thanks for the kudos on the disc mod, really glad you guys are liking it. I believe the quote I made on this thread back when I first posted about the mod was that is was a 'Real Game Changer'. There's now a fare amount of these Disc mods out there, really glad to see everyone enjoying how it improves the play and feel of the game.

The factory set up can vari from game to game as the brass bushings and shaft all have some degree of manufacturing tolerances that can change from lot to lot when produced. I found that my game's Disc was not level with the playfield from the factory, the forward section was low and the rear (towards the back) was high. I had to use washers to shim the sheet metal housing that attaches to the playfield to level the entire mechanism as it wasn't caused by the plastic bushing that the bearing carrier threads into. You might have to do what I did to get the disc level to the playfleid, it has to be level whether you are using the original plastic disc or my aluminum disc. Hope this helps

As Sleal16 stated, it sure looks as if your brass bushing in the lower end of the bearing carrier has come out of the threaded carrier, that appears to be the most common issue when there is that much wobble in the disc.

Quick question:

When I go for the power gem, I know the middle red arrow shot does the most damage. However in a couple of games, I have noticed the Marvel ramp shot is white with the 2 red arrows on each side. Any idea why it doesn't give me the option to hit a more damaging shot?

Is it white because it's also lit for a combo?

I thought I understood the combo system. Please explain a little more. Are you saying I should hit marvel (when it's white) and then hit a red arrow or another white arrow in power gem quest.

After a shot to qualify a combo - shots will light white to show you what shots are available to combo. Not sure that the white overrides the red for Power gem quest (don't think it does). If you had Iron Man or Thor multiball also going, those arrows would also light, creating a lot of lit shots. Maybe that's what happened?

That's what is confusing me too. I didn't think a combo shot would override the red for Power gem either. I checked the RGB lighting for the ramp. It works perfectly. So maybe it does. Thanks!

The Pro Model I just bought with a September build date has Ver 1.02.0 software. Website lists the current version is 1.01.0. I have no idea what the difference is. Just thought I would mention it.

I have two quick question I hope someone can answer.

1. Are you supposed to be able to shoot the left ramp with the right flipper on a moving ball? For the life of me I can’t make the shot. The flipper just seems to weak. It makes it part way up and comes right back down.

The 2% of the time I do make it the ball just barely makes it to the top. I’ve never had a shot that easily made it up the ramp when the ball is in motion from the Hawkeye shot.

2. Can someone check their black panther ball guide for me right at where the shooter lane ramp connects. It looks like the shooter lane ramp sits under the ball guide for the panther shot.

My panther shot almost always rattles around in there and I think it’s because my shooter lane ramp sticks out from under the ball guide and the ball hits it on its way around.

See where mine sticks out at the bottom but then goes under as it moves up?

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1. Yes, you should be able to hit left ramp (Black Widow) from the right flipper either from a trap or roll. Verify your flipper strength settings. Depending on how many plays you have on the game, you may want to replace the flipper coil stops and sleeves. I've had them fail as early as 300 games played. Cheap and easy to replace. Also - if the flippers are stronger when game first powered on and flipper strength decreases after long playing sessions - @pinmonk's flipper coil fans can help quite a bit.

2. Yes, mine is the same. Generally speaking - since the ball is round, it will only be the center that will hit the side of a "wall", the ball won't actually hit anything in the ~1/4" bottom corner where the playfield meets a vertical wall or guide. Slowly roll a ball across that area to verify if there is any interference.

Flipper power is at the max of 255 which appears to be the factory default. It happens right from the first game so I don’t suspect it’s heat related.

I pulled the coil stop and it’s rock solid.

Thanks for checking. I’m going to try and setup a camera on it and find out why it’s rattling around in there. Or maybe I just suck at pinball.

The way may game works is the following...
1. From cradle I can easily hit BW from right flipper
2. From CM feed, I can easily hit BW from right flipper, this is a key combo.
3. From BP feed, the BW shot is much more difficult due to the increased ball speed in the inlane. I will usually ski-jump to the left in that case or (try to) hit a different shot.

Now, speaking of the BW ramp, I've had a bit of the opposite problem, I will hit it so hard that the ball will reject, I think due to hitting the plastic 'roof' above the ramp. Anyone have a fix for that problem? It's SDTM every time the reject happens which is maybe 10% of the time hitting the BW shot. This is frustrating because the shot is perfect in every way except 'too fast'? I'm thinking of raising the roof some to see if that helps.

Also check your slope from back to front... most play best between 6.5° ~ 7.0°... which is pretty close to front legs as short as possible and back legs as tall as possible, so it's unlikely you are too steep.

Can you make the ramp from a trap? It took me a bit to get the timing to hit the Black Widow ramp from the right flipper on a fast rolling return, but now it's generally no problem after 3000+ games played.

I also keep my playfield and ramps cleaned and waxed and change balls out around every 500 plays.

I used to have this issue more often and also thought of raising the plastic roof... I'm now wondering if I put a washer or two under the plastic at the entrance, because I don't remember having that issue for a while now. Will have to check when I'm back home tonight.

I feel stupid for asking, but is there an indication on the playfield that Hawkeye challenge has been qualified?

Also, is there a way to tell which super modes have been played? My understanding is that playing them all will award you a MB, but I don’t see how you can tell what you have played.

I think the super modes you can see on one of the info screens when you trap the ball. Hawkeye on the play field i don't know.

Yes Hawkeye Challenge has a round insert near the tower that lights up white when qualified.

When you hold a flipper up you can cycle through the info screen pages using the other flipper. The first pages are the status of the grid and what completing a line will award. The next page shows what super modes will be available next. Once all are completed you can get "Trophy" and "Computer Frenzy". Once you get Computer Frenzy you have to go into the portal (Premium/LE) to start the Multiball mode.

Also during a super mode the main screen will show the super mode status at the top of the screen and what color trophy you have earned for each mode.

Thanks. The grid rules are still confusing to me so trying to sort it out.

Yeah, I feel like they're sort of missing something, not sure what exactly but they just lack a certain intuitiveness that I think would help. I also wish you could reset your selection when you accidentally get the wrong grid but I guess that's why you could put the mind gem on the grid.

First off I found the Hawkeye insert, I’m stupid.

As for the grid; my understanding is that there is a mini wizard mode associated with completing the super modes. When in a super mode the icon is displayed on the screen, I just don’t know why those don’t stay up there to indicate what you have played already, seems like an easy way to gauge your progress.

I love Keith’s games and the nuisanced rules, but I think AIQ is just lacking in clarity of progress in regards to the grid. It’s such a deep part of the game, but trapping up to check your progress just seems antithetical to the game’s design. I’m not a rules person , but I do figure them out eventually and the grid is still eluding me.

It took me a long time to get a good grasp of the grid and I probably don't know all of it yet. You can go far and score big without paying much attention to the grid, but it can really help in many ways.

Trapping up and looking over the info screens is BIG on AIQ (at least for me, and I really never look at the info screens on a game like Deadpool). This is especially easy at the beginning of a ball, because you can let the flipper down and start the info sequence over again before plunging if you want to look at something again. Learning how to use the grid is a big advantage especially during the plunge. Going for the center target off the plunge will get you the Secret Skill Shot and the flashing grid square. If you time it right, (plunge when square prior to the one you want is flashing ) you can easily Spot Avenger by timing the center square. This can help Assemble Avengers and get to the next "wizard mode" quicker. Other squares award their prizes and also whatever row you complete (like Tic-Tac-Toe) you get the prize that is shown on the info screen at the outside of the 3x3 grid on the info screen.

Looking at the info screen to see what row will get Extra Ball, Super Disc, etc... can be very helpful when you learn to use it to your advantage. Of course a lot of my grid completions are random, but knowing if you can get an Extra Ball by completing a certain row is nice and can change your game strategy a little.

Thanks for the tips and info.

It is absolutely a requirement to trap up and figure that grid out. I already trap up quite a bit normally but between figuring out what grid square you WANT and actually locking it in, you need to stop the game to do it. However, if you continuously try and send balls into the drop targets, especially during MB, you WILL get valuable awards from it, sort of like a mystery award feature in a way.

Oh Yeah!

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Hy,
here is my newest Mod a Topper for the AiQ. Free download on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5025298.
Have Fun

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Doing some routine cleaning and found this loose piece of thin metal in the shooter lane coming off of the ramp. Is this piece supposed to be unattached or did a small piece of weld break? Can I bend it and tuck it somewhere?

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That's normal, it is basically the same as a ramp flap, it's just there to help the ball feed smoothly from the shooter lane to the orbit.

I checked on mine and the end is not attached. The end of it should just be able to rest flat against the ball guide.

As the others mentioned - this is normal.

I have tried 2-sided tape to hold it in place, but ultimately just giving it a very slight "bend" (you can't actually see a bend) further back to hold it tight against the side rail has worked best in my case.

Hi everyone - long time listener, first time caller...

I am finally making the plunge to buy my first pinball machine (after owning a Virtual one for a while) and set on an Infinity Quest premium. I have someone who is looking to sell theirs and want to know what are some of the key things I should get videos or photos of to make sure this cabinet is working as it should. We have already chatted about the Captain Marvel ramp fix (he has the 3D printed mod available here on pinside but hasn't installed as he hasn't had the problem).

And 2nd question - I will be looking to add art blades and shooter rod when I can. I have watched install videos of shooter rod and that seems easy enough but the Art Blades look tricky... - any thoughts or tutorials?

Thanks in advance!

Congrats!

Check to make sure the subway is working as it should and that the "finger" closest to the Ant Man VUK comes all of the way up as much as the other two.
How many plays are on it? Have the flipper coil stops and sleeves been replaced?
Also check the disc for proper operation.
On the Art Blades - you can do it wet or dry. I've done both and wet was probably a little easier since you can reposition easier if needed. Some remove the playfield for ultimate access, but I never have.
For the wet method - Spray the sticky side with Windex or water (have a towel or two in the bottom of the cabinet to keep everything else dry). Position the playfield up or down as necessary. Use the hinge bolt as a guide to get started. Once positioned, squeegee as much water out as possible and to work out any bubbles.

Random question. What is the little dog plastic key chain that came in the bag of extra plastics? It’s a white dog and is totally out of place unless it has Marcel relevance that I am unaware of. I have a premium.

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HurryUpPinball has a fantastic video where he installs JP art blades and I followed that one my machine. Was my first art blades install too.

Things learned:
I did take the time to remove the playfield beforehand and I am glad that I did, made my life a lot easier.
Used the "wet" method (bought some rapid tac and some squeegees with felt cover) and it makes installation a breeze because you have literally wiggle room.
Had a friend help me, and a 2nd set of hands makes it so much easier.

Likely there is a bunch of guys doing it dry, without taking the playfield out by themselves, but the way described makes it a 10 minute afair and you have someone to drink a beer and play some pinball afterwards.

Congratulations, and hope everything goes well!

I'm another fan of the wet method. I use laptop screen cleaner vs the windex (which is probably closer to water). Help is good so one person can guide on each side of the playfield which makes it a little easier. Make sure you clean the surface of the cabinet good with alcohol or windex to remove any grease or oils to ensure good adhesion of the art blades.