Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

With less friction the disc will come to rest at the 6 o'clock position most of the time, but there are occasions it won't. If you have a shaker it will most likely end up there. As Sleal16 mentioned I use the upper flipper to both spin the heck out of the disc, and also hit the sanctum target off the post or to clear it. Adds a different way to attack the shot, but over time it's now just part of how I make the shot work, and I also think I've had less SDTM drains off that target as a result. Your results may vary

Quoted from EaglePin:

On mine when I first got it the ball had a tendency to veer left as it went across the shooter lane metal ramp. As you said, that shooter lane metal ramp is very flimsy and it seems to have a lot of bounce and wobble to it, and it isn't supported much at all underneath it. I propped a Lego brick with a cabinet dot/bumper on top of it underneath the left side in the middle of the ramp to counter the movement of the ball and it's worked great ever since. Made it so the ramp wasn't tilting that way anymore.
Here's a post that has a picture of where I put the brick/bumper stack under the shooter lane:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-avengers-infinity-quest-owners-thread-pinsiders-assemble/page/108#post-6152817

Quoted from Sleal16:

Interesting. I'll try that lego approach see if changes anything.

Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

With less friction the disc will come to rest at the 6 o'clock position most of the time, but there are occasions it won't. If you have a shaker it will most likely end up there. As Sleal16 mentioned I use the upper flipper to both spin the heck out of the disc, and also hit the sanctum target off the post or to clear it. Adds a different way to attack the shot, but over time it's now just part of how I make the shot work, and I also think I've had less SDTM drains off that target as a result. Your results may vary

Quoted from marioparty34:

Pardon my ignorance.
Can someone please explain how RPMs are calculated on Dr. Strange? How does the machine know how many rotations?
I understand how it counts the rotations on a spinner like the Hulk. But I don't quite understand how it does it on the Dr. Strange disc.

Quoted from Sleal16:

Not sure on the exact method it uses (electronics wise), but theres a magnetic sensor at the bottom of the assembly, in which the rod is also magnetic. So when it rotates, I guess the software counts the amount of times it toggles the sensor. It'll grab the first second or so of spins and fit it in the "per minute" math to calculate how many rotations it would have gotten if it maintained its initial velocity throughout a whole minute. For the sake of RPM, thats about it. From then it'll still count rotations while its spinning to tally up score/etc but wont really tie in with the RPM math. The number ends up being a little arbitrary.

Quoted from roar:

I like the looks of this mod, looks really well fabricated which is cool... but I'm not sure I want more spins on the disc... that thing gets in the way already, more spins will just make it harder to hit that darn sanctum target .

Quoted from Sleal16:

That's the only drawback. Even if it lands out of the 6oclock position, through the shaker motor and other little vibrations it'll move back to that spot. On the plus side, I've gotten pretty decent at hitting it from the upper flipper. Whenever I need to hit the sanctum, I'll shoot it to the right ramp to feed to it. Long run, with either stock or upgraded spinner, I think the sanctum shots might be more reliable that way (guess unless the post is between 9-12 o'clock)

Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

With less friction the disc will come to rest at the 6 o'clock position most of the time, but there are occasions it won't. If you have a shaker it will most likely end up there. As Sleal16 mentioned I use the upper flipper to both spin the heck out of the disc, and also hit the sanctum target off the post or to clear it. Adds a different way to attack the shot, but over time it's now just part of how I make the shot work, and I also think I've had less SDTM drains off that target as a result. Your results may vary

Quoted from Thunderbird:

Agreed, this is how I always attack the spinner and sanctum target: from the upper left flipper. Much safer shot than from lower flippers. No STDM troubles no matter where the disc post is located. Put upper left flipper to its full use and work the disc from a distance where no one misses.
Really enthused how the mod eliminates the stock spinner “thud”, by hitting it straight on, where original spinner didn’t actually move at times.

Quoted from marioparty34:

Thanks for the info.
I guess I am more curious on the electronic part of the process. How does the magnetic sensor count the spinning? I am hoping someone way smarter than me can dumb it down and explain it.

Quoted from awesome1:

No new RPM record yet, but did get all gems, defeated Thanos, reached Trophy Mania and got my new high of 660M in Super Victory Laps last night on my way to a 3.88B game (my 3rd highest)!

[quoted image]

Quoted from Sleal16:

Till someone can explain it better, this page has some good briefs and illustrations:
https://www.akm.com/us/en/products/rotary-encoder/angle-sensor/

Quoted from marioparty34:

Very informative. I am trying to see if I can make any adjustments to it. I feel like I am ripping that disc and my RPMs aren't as high as I would have imagined.

Quoted from marioparty34:

I am in the 500 to 600s. When I first installed the Dr Strange mod, I got up to 1300s. I assumed that would be a common occurrence. But in 20 games or so games since, I have yet to break 800.
Perhaps the sensor is too close. I heard that it needs to be a credit card thickness distance between sensor and bottom of rod. Mine is pretty close.

Quoted from Bos007:

I put in 2 bumper rubbers[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DavidJames-1863:

Re AIQ. Are the outlanes tough on this game say as compared to a IM ?

Quoted from Insanity199:

Yes, outlines are hungry. You have to learn when to nudge for sure. However, even with that, they can be brutal. I had a first ball today in the 400 millions and then had a few unfortunate slingshot directly to outlane drains. Really killed what could have been a great game. Ended with~600 mill. Frustrating when you feel you are on your way to a 1B+ game.

Quoted from marioparty34:

Very informative. I am trying to see if I can make any adjustments to it. I feel like I am ripping that disc and my RPMs aren't as high as I would have imagined.

Quoted from Sleal16:

It does need to be a set distance between the two points.
Too close and/or sightly not angled correctly (not centered and not perpendicular) will register faster hits.....too far and won't register enough.
How high are you getting? I do think 600-800 are healthy averages if everything is perfectly calibrated

Quoted from marioparty34:

I am in the 500 to 600s. When I first installed the Dr Strange mod, I got up to 1300s. I assumed that would be a common occurrence. But in 20 games or so games since, I have yet to break 800.
Perhaps the sensor is too close. I heard that it needs to be a credit card thickness distance between sensor and bottom of rod. Mine is pretty close.

Quoted from Sleal16:

yeah, thats really the only thing you can adjust at this point. With both the carrier and the disc upgrade, we hit up to 1100 but stay in the 700-900 range on good days. Only thing I didnt install was the extra bearing insert, since with the carrier it was an optional thing to add. I'm not concerned with RPM's, so havent taken the time to take it apart again to put that in. Mostly what I love about the new equipment is the more rotations we get out of it. My wife can keep her RPM high score of 1500 (she hit that with stock stuff, but both bearings had fallen out of the OG carrier and the disc was flopping all over the place).

Quoted from T3quila:

Got my tibetan breeze flipper cooling kit from PinMonk today and can attest that installation was a breeze (bad pun intended).
I haven't put the machine through a torture test yet but in sure it will fix the fade!
I noticed that my table was flat and let out the rear leg adjusters so the bubble on the right side is centered now, however the inclinometer shows only 6.1 degree. Should i make it steeper? What angles are you all playing?

Quoted from Tippyroad:

Hey guys! Can someone point me to the best place to buy cliffy protectors for my AIQ?

Quoted from CashMoney:

Never trust the bubble I’ve been told.
I have my AIQ set at 6.9 degrees and it plays fast and fun. Can’t stand machines that have the ball just float around.

Quoted from Sleal16:

I probably should have asked or dug around a bit before adding the ant-rattle tape to the glass, but.....Is it recommended to tape all sides or just the ends? I ended up taping each side and it was a b&%*# to slide the glass back on. Very tight. Mostly asking so if only the ends are really needed I'll remove the side ones.

Quoted from Sleal16:

With the stock equipment, we never hit above 600-700 if everything was aligned properly. When the copper bushings would pop off and the rod would get slightly slanted, the sensor would freak out and register up to 1500. I would then realign the bushing and rod, and would go back to the normal RPM. Either way, not an issue anymore with the mood and everything is smooth like butter

Quoted from flynnibus:

can you elaborate on that a bit more? I noticed ours was registering 1200+ where our pro used to top out at like 600ish. I thought maybe it was a premium vs pro difference, but your description fits. Can you elaborate on what you saw?

Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

As a point of reference I set the gap between the bottom of the magnet and the sensor using my credit card. I've set it up this way from day one of testing the disc mod to make sure my set up was consistent during testing. When I set the gap I make sure that the card slips between the sensor and the magnet easily with no drag. Using my calipers to measure the thickness of my CC it shows .033, or about 1/32". I also used some feeler gages to find the exact gap between the magnet and the sensor without moving or distorting the sensor plate away from the magnet, it measured .037. So I think it's safe to assume that a minimum gap of 1/32" is good, but wouldn't exceed 1/16" as that is probably to big. Lastly I make certain that the sensor is centered with respect to the magnet in all directions, not off to one side, left or right, and top to bottom.
For those that have installed the bearing carrier mod as well you really do not need to install the thrust bearing. The upper bearing installed into the bearing carrier has an extended inner race, that is what the bottom of the disc rides on while it spins. I did make some tests with the thrust bearing in combination with the bearing carrier and I didn't really find that it made any real difference.
Hope this helps, feel free to reach out to me if anyone wants to discuss in detail further.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Sleal16:

So in this photo, the bearing popped off and caused the rod to go from slightly to badly slanted. When the rod would slant, the bottom tip would not be centered and perpendicular to the sensor. The sensor would rely on that precision to count correctly. If the magnetic poles end up being funky, it picks up triggers when it shouldnt. At its worst, the whole table would be at rest with the ball cradled, and the disc would be adding to the score and filling up the STRANGE letters.
The other photo was before I adjusted it last month, so the pole is pretty far from the sensor, but shows how its supposed to be centered. Whenever I get under it again I'll check with the calipers and probably close the current gap a little anyway...probably get an extra "oomph" in speed if the current setup is farther than it should.
I think that with the Pros, since it doesnt have that extra mechanism to lift it, they're more commonly configured the same without it falling out of place.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Magicmike0:

Is it normal for the last finger in the subway to be wiggling freely up towards the back box and down towards the apron if you shake the machine? Or is mine finally about to break? If someone could shake their machine a little and see if theirs wiggles, I’d appreciate it. May save me from taking some stuff apart if I don’t have too.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Sleal16:

So in this photo, the bearing popped off and caused the rod to go from slightly to badly slanted. When the rod would slant, the bottom tip would not be centered and perpendicular to the sensor. The sensor would rely on that precision to count correctly. If the magnetic poles end up being funky, it picks up triggers when it shouldnt. At its worst, the whole table would be at rest with the ball cradled, and the disc would be adding to the score and filling up the STRANGE letters.
The other photo was before I adjusted it last month, so the pole is pretty far from the sensor, but shows how its supposed to be centered. Whenever I get under it again I'll check with the calipers and probably close the current gap a little anyway...probably get an extra "oomph" in speed if the current setup is farther than it should.
I think that with the Pros, since it doesnt have that extra mechanism to lift it, they're more commonly configured the same without it falling out of place.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from flynnibus:

Thanks, but I'm still struggling to understand what you are talking about with " the bearing popped off" - there is no bearing in the assembly so I'm not understanding what you are saying was out of place.

Quoted from awesome1:

Are you guys also checking/adjusting the field strength in the Disc test menu according to Stern's recommendations?

Quoted from awesome1:

That last finger is the one known to cause problems... as long as it stands all the way up, you should be OK. With that said - it seems to be the "slop" in the mechanism that allows that finger to slide down where it shouldn't be and that causes the problems.
Pretty easy to take apart and probably can inspect enough without taking anything apart.

Quoted from T3quila:

I believe I've seen a post where someone took the mech apart where the last "finger" fell forward due to slack in the linkage and put some sort of shim in there to tighten it up. He/She was making it more slick by sanding it to account for the added tension in the mechanism with the fix if I remember correctly. Maybe someone remembers what I am talking about? I can look for the post later, but it may be a different issues you are having.

Quoted from awesome1:

Are you guys also checking/adjusting the field strength in the Disc test menu according to Stern's recommendations?

Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

I have many of these discs out there now and the feedback from some is that the decal could be made from a little thicker material, this is something I am investigating for incorporating in the near future

Quoted from gorditas:

I think the included sticker is fine. I cut a piece of mylar to go over mine to protect the edges of the sticker as much as the top. The mylar goes close to the edge of the top of the disc. I'd stay with the thinner sticker, and send a piece of precision cut mylar to go on top instead.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Magicmike0:

Did I get the wrong kit to fix the level of my spinning disc? I have a premium and they sent me a kit for the pro. That’s confusing too, because the pro disc doesn’t even raise. I guess pro owners are having disc level issues too?
[quoted image]

Quoted from cooked71:

Look what turned up today. It’s a piece of art in itself - very impressed at the quality. I can tell just by holding it how well this thing will spin. Can’t wait to install this bad boy this weekend.
Thanks 1956PINHEAD ![quoted image]