Sheesh, several billion point games and you're complaining about cheap drains??? I'm not sure you realize what cheap drains are, what do you expect 5 billion each game???

i agree with you on that. it's a let down and hurts the game. animation is average at best too. turtles is a lot better on sound and animation.

The audio package can be modified if we can get an update to Pinball Browser

The coil stop is at the other end of the coil, away from the moving parts... the flipper plunger hits it with each flip, that is what causes wear and the gold dust. (2) screws hold it in place. The coil sleeve will then slide out of the inside of the coil, where the plunger slides. Replace both. It will seem more obvious when you are looking at it.

c8233330a2d3a289c3486029d9be4db3875ca896_LI (resized).jpg

I was complaining about cheap drains for a few reasons: 1) For players that are not me (i.e. my kids, wife, etc.) cheap drains make the game not fun. It's the least played game out of my 10 machines and also the newest. When I ask why I'm told "it's not exciting and I lose the ball easily". So that part of my complaint was for casual players. 2) The cheap outlanes created an enormous amount of randomness. I can play Deadpool, IMDN, or MM and consistently reach the late parts of the game 9 out of 10 times. With Avengers, I'll put up a 10 million, than a billion, than 25 million, than 300 million - because the outlanes created all sorts of randomness - finding consistent play was incredibly difficult.

But after adjusting the pitch, it's not the drain monster it used to be and my play is now consistent. My prior comments about the sound, Thanos Attacks BS, and lack of stuff to do besides gem modes still apply, but the outlanes, thankfully can be fixed with a sharper pitch.

Thank you! Ordered a couple replacement and extras this morning. Did not realize these machines required so much maintenance (this is my first pin). Does not bother me - kind of fun!

I just played TWD with the Cleland mod for the first time yesterday and WOW it made a huge impact on the game (in a positive way).

We need to make this happen on AIQ. It would give this game so much more personality. There are so many movie quotes that could be used.

They won’t need much, once you get them dialed in.

Sure thing. Learning about and working on pins can also be fun if you like that kind of stuff. I'm very mechanically minded by nature and have worked on my own cars for ever and working on and modding pins can be very rewarding as well as playing them...

If you keep the playfield clean, (and replace balls every 500 games or so) you will reduce the amount of wear on the game, but there are many moving parts and electrical connections that will require maintenance from time to time, but groups like this are usually eager to help answer any questions.

FINALLY got the game playing reasonably fair, with the exception of the CM ramp. Still nothing but rejections. I'm going to try that ramp mod to see if it improves things.

I also just had my first good game in over a month. I collected all gems, played (and failed) Thanos Attack, BO MB, and Battle Royale.

Would all of this have qualified Battle Thanos? Unfortunately once Royale ended, I flailed around and lost the ball before I could see what was coming next. I feel like there was something going on with the audio that made it sound like something cool was coming, but again, I was focused on the ball that I couldn't get under control.

Also, what is the purpose of placing (or replacing) gems? Do they help you complete Avengers quicker, because I'm always struggling to get Thor as I try to qualify BO MB and BR.

Forgot about the balls - are the standard balls at Pinball Life good enough? I'll add those to my order...

You're looking at the wrong end of the coil. The other side of the flipper plate in your picture is where the coil stop is. It's at opposite end of the flipper linkage. The gold dust is the brass around the post coming off so the post in the middle gets loose or falls out.

Here's an illustration of removing them from one of my instructions for the cooling kit. It's dead simple. I've highlighted in yellow where the brass shavings are coming from.

flipper-coil-stop (resized).jpg

Awesome - thank you!

I still prefer IMDN over AIQ, but Keith hasn't made a bad game yet and I like AIQ more than JP.

AIQ does deserve some flack because the audio is just awful. The music seems like filler and all of it sounds mostly the same, there is nothing from the audio that will make you realize you're in Thor multiball as opposed to IM multiball as opposed to just playing a Gem mode with a portal lock in place. The call outs are half assed for the most part (Thor, Thanos, Hulk sound good..the rest are awful) and aren't instructional.

It's a sharp looking game and Zombie Yeti is amazing, but I feel like this is his worst pinball art package thus far. Still looks good, just not quite as great as TMNT, IMDN, DP.

With that said...there is a T O N of depth in the code with how the gems work, the layout has amazing flow/combos and it is overall a great pin. I went back and forth a month or two back about potentially getting rid of my pro, but after the latest code update adding Thanos Attacks and further polish, I've decided to hold onto it longer. Will it be a long term keeper? Time will tell, but i'm thoroughly enjoying it now.

I think that once someone adds in good music and callouts people are going to look at this game differently like they did with TWD after Cleland made the audio as good as the rest of the package.

Need to collect avengers a third time for Thanos battle.

Those balls are fine. The Ninja balls from ballbaron.com are super shiny, but any balls will need to be replaced around every 500 games played.

I did collect a third time to get to Battle Royale.

The update readme file makes it sound like I would have had it ready. A friend said you probably have to hit the disc to spell Strange, but I feel like there was something going on before the ball drained, so maybe I didn't have to?!?!

Anyone know for sure?

My post on the spinning disc has now come loose and flown off a 2nd time after properly screwing it down and tightening it. I'm looking at using loctite as others have mentioned. Do you put the loctite on metal cutout on the disc, on the rubber itself, where?

Love the game, but having to routinely hunt for nuts and screws flying off the game every month is irritating.

Yes, you have to spin the disc to spell strange before Battle Thanos is available after Battle Royale and all 6 gem quests.

Just put a small amount of Loctite on the lowest screw threads before inserting into nut and re-screwing it tight, so the Loctite will be in the screw threads and nut threads to hold secure.

Cool, so I was definitely close. Do the gems have to be completed (captured) or just played? Same goes for BR?

Also, I find when my disc post is at the 6 and 12 o-clock position, a straight on shot will usually just deflect off without spinning it. I have to hit it a few times until it rotates slightly, and then spins freely.

Does this sound right, or is there something wrong with my disc?

Same here - completely normal. In those positions you have to try to “graze” it, not hit it head on. Or, particularly in the 6 o-clock position, you can hit it from the upper flipper so it’s less dangerous and actually gives you a huge spin.

The portal can be a dangerous shot or a really safe one depending on the position- makes it a great toy. I love the way it can also block other shots - ads a whole level to the game. Then on the PreLe it raises and becomes a completely different shot again.

It’s actually a testament to how freakin good this game is - it’s universally agreed to have really crap theme integration on all levels (“animations”, call outs, music) yet even with that it’s still in the Top 10.

Should only get better with updates - I'm ready for 1.0...

The “animations” are totallly fine. Just needs more

Not sure what you mean by averaged it out. Pitch should only be measured between the flippers. Manufacturers install bubble levels parallel to the flippers for this reason. If you're at 6.4 between the slings, then you're even less than that between the flippers.

Get it up to 6.5 between the flippers and level side to side. Stern moved their leg holes so that it should be close to 6.5 with all four levelers completely raised.

Not a big fan - they are sesiously lazy and little more than placeholders, but yes, at a minimum, more are needed.

Have to admit that you dont get a lot of time to watch them in theis game. Sounds and music though are really important.

I recommend using Locktite Blue, not red. Blue is semi permanent... (red is permanent and not forgiving at all, ever)

Just don't get any loctite blue on plastic, it will weaken or melt it.

You sure about that? I have the back legs turned out half way, and the front all the way in, and it's 6.3 between the slings.

Also, I noticed tonight (after having my best game yet) that the spinner was not going back to closed (down) position. I looked inside, and saw a part was loose. Should this part be able to come out easily like this?

Anyone know?

Seems like the plastic nut has come loose or the brass insert has fallen out from the bottom. What is the build date on this? Stern has a kit for fixing these if it's more than needing to tighten the white plastic nut underneath.

Why would you have all of the levellers completely raised? It would make the game more unstable and put unnecessary stress on the levellers. Having them all raised is the same as having them all lowered, in terms of pitch.

I start of as default with the front legs lowered to their limit, only changing them if I need to adjust left to right pitch due to an uneven floor. Then using the the rear levellers to adjust back to front pitch.

This is the correct way to do this,absolutly!!

Fyi, Guys I'm getting close to closing the 3rd run of the CM ramp fix.

I'd like one!

Sign me up as well

As far as I can tell, that brass insert is independent, so not sure how tightening something on the bottom would fix it.

Can someone check there's to see if that brass piece is attached solidly to the plastic, or if it should have some play.

Can't see it being the latter, as this is what is causing it to lift off and prevent the disc from spinning and lowering.

Thanks!

Semantics... by "lowered" do you mean screwed as far in to the leg as possible or screwed out as far as possible, so the leveler bolt is seen?

I have my front levelers screwed as far in as possible with no thread showing (what I would consider raised position) and the rear mostly extended or lowered so the bolt is showing. Slight adjustments for side to side leveling.

I'm at 6.8° ~ 7° on my AIQ.

That's my exact issue right there, thanks so much for that!

Only difference is, my brass collar popped off on the other side, which is why it impedes the up/down.

I’m consistently have two issues:

1) Auto launch doesn’t make it up the orbit, drains into the bumpers 50-60% of the time. I’ve attempted all the forum suggested fixes with no long term results.

2) The Avenger’s tower magnet drops the ball ~50% of the time so the ball rolls out away from the upper flipper. My game is level. I haven’t seen this issue mentioned here yet.

These issues are not game breakers but constant bummers.

By lowered, I mean screwed all the way in so that the bolt hole to floor is as short as possible when set up.

BrackAttac- I have the same problem with mine !

What does a slo-mo video show about the path of the ball going up the shooter lane and into the curve?

AiQ is in the basement. Thankfully arrived before the forecasted 6-10 inches of snow tomorrow here in Northern Virginia.

The nut was at the bottom of the box. Will need to figure out where that goes. (Just an extra nut that fits to bolts in coin door attachment and side trim.)

Now to complete the set, I just need an Iron Man.

6D0300DD-8BA9-4548-884C-411D6481E941 (resized).jpegB3840B2A-71D6-46DE-BFA1-79F642DE26C0 (resized).jpeg

Now that the game is in the house, I’m trying to find the places where washers or Cliffy protectors are needed.

Cliff shows a protector at the right with mystery light. I can’t tell where the other washers should go so I photographed all the areas that look like it can cause problems.

I was told by Stern the issues with the lane guides digging into the playfield should be solved. Does it look like they have? I don’t know what I am looking for.

Build date on this game is February 8, 2021.

The glass was very hard to take out. Maybe it was just still cold. But it felt thicker like HD glass (wishful thinking).

08E04FED-7592-48E2-9952-3571AE367D6B (resized).jpeg82C52DB2-7F76-42C5-BD52-C2E775FAC21A (resized).jpeg89E5FD76-F55B-4846-A544-3BFE9DAEB1F0 (resized).jpegCC092485-74B4-4D49-841F-9E694DF99874 (resized).jpegF188A519-A61D-4B68-BC0B-AC4B1B946613 (resized).jpeg

Congrats on your new game! Your AntMan guide looks better than mine was. You're really just looking for areas in which that guide could have been tightened down so that the guide itself is digging down into the clearcoat.
I also suggest making sure your Dr Strange disc post is screwed tightly, and each of your wire ramps are connected nice and tight.

Have fun with it!

Thanks. It looks like most guides are 1/16” above the playfield. If so, do I still need to add washers or Cliffy protectors?

I also learned something new on these games. I went into switch test and nothing. So I checked all the connectors and such (which I should have done first anyway). Everything is fine. So I pressed in the high power button and the switches worked. Strange that they are on that circuit. But I guess my Deadpool le didn’t have the cutoff when the door opened.

PM sent.

Yeah, Stern made the high power cutoff useless on Spike for diagnosing switch issues. It kills the switches and the coils, which is like, "what's the point then?"