Well I got my motors for my Bikini.
I replaced the CU and Mixer motors.
Things seem to be working - - - - until I noticed, on occasion , that
both motors stop!!
This did not happen before. Even though this happens the pin will continue to
work once a function is applied: new game, select replays after a win, shooting balls etc.
Almost like a legit function!!!
Is this a situation that can happen or do I have a problem???
Looking at the schematic quite a few switches have to be open for this to occur!!
BTW I got I got Richard Gerlitz's videos, there GREAT!!!

Thanks Nick.
After further review, at least on my pin, after the 5th ball is played(enters the play field)
the timer starts; it appears to be irrelevant if the 5th ball scores or not, the pin will
time out,even before the 5th ball has landed permanently!!
I don't remember this happening before!
Check out my latest find!

The sign (resized).JPG

Thanks again Nick. I don't remember my pin doing this before.
I guess the new motors sent my machine into submission!!!

I was looking on you tube yesterday and noticed Steve Smith's Bingo Bikini.
I saw it many times before, but noticed the "Bikini" name at the top has
lights that randomly light across!
My machine, the lights stay lit.
Is his machine different, or is my machine not lighting properly?
BTW what a great bingo he has!!!

Thanks Dennis

Does anyone have a picture of the ball trough metal shield;
the cover that protects the trough switches from damage
when moving the coin box in and out?

Check this out.
Work in progress.
BTW not by me

Lock down 7 (resized).JPG

Lock down 6 (resized).JPG

Lock down 5 (resized).JPG

Lock down 4 (resized).JPG

Lock down 3 (resized).JPG

Lock down 2 (resized).JPG

Lock down in the begining (resized).JPG

Of course the pictures are in reverse order.
One day I'll figure this stuff out.

Looking through game manuals on bingo.cdyn I noticed some have
an actual write up on how to play the game.
I imagine this to be for the operators.
I would like to find something like that for my Bikini machine.
Jeff's book goes into Futurity games but I find the actual playing
of my machine, Futurity feature, is still a bit confusing!!

Thanks guys for the input.
I'll get through it.
BTW, a couple more pictures of the "bar"!

Lock down 8 (resized).JPG

Lock down 9 (resized).JPG

The guy's name is Reg. I've known him for a while now.
I knew he could do anything with wood. So, I brought over my
lock down bar, not disassembled so he could a feel of all the
parts, to see if he would make me one.
I also brought over one of my side wood rails, that hold the back
glass in place, so he could get an idea of the color and grain.
He ended up using oak!
He is using all of the orig parts since they are not in to bad a shape.
The weather strip type stuff under the bar that touches the class
will be replaced!
As far as making more, I could ask.

As I am spending more time playing my pin I am noticing that about
every 10 games the odds do not light. When I start another game,all is well!
When the odds do not light I went around to the back of my machine to take
a look at the disc's. All disc's, search, spotting etc, are all sitting on rivets.
Is there an area, or relay, etc. I should be looking at.
It is an intermittent(pain in the ---) problem that I can not duplicate at will!!!

I'll check the next time it happens.
Al though, the balls register on the bingo card. Even if I get
three or more in line, no replays!!!

I'm thinking more of a contact problem like "okorange" said.
My 70V lines should be good since I have the balls lifting and shutter moving.
The shutter motor contacts are/is my old friend "o'l rusty".
I burnished those contacts good. Maybe not good enough.
Once I find " 6B" I'll look harder at the contacts!!!

Found it, location G-47. Interesting, it is common to all three score units.
Is this part of the odds set up?

I noticed that 6B is NO, your right and I will check the gap.
Trouble being that this is an intermittent thing
Going to be trial and error.
I will check the NO, but not to much to stop the switch from closing!
Thanks "okorange".

Quick playing of the game(Bikini) question.
Can you have/get the OK lit as well as ABCD(E,F or G) magic screen?

Thanks Nick!

Nick, after further investigation, it appears that when the odds don't light, the features light(s) do not
light either; only general illumination, including bingo numbers!
I am thinking the 50V is OK; the 50V motors, ball lifter, shutter work OK!

My tilt mechanism is disconnected. This issue will happen randomly!
This may sound stupid, but, I have yet to find my tilt light.
I have tilted my machine with one of the body tilt switches,
removed the back glass and no lights lit!
I even looked through my back glass with a light and could not see
the tilt symbol!!!
But I digress, this "no odds" thing happens every 10 to 15 games, but,
on rare occasions, I can play for 45 min or so with no issues!!

Dennis, I always use coins. I suppose it could still happen that the micro switch
is switching to slowly!!
Where is my tilt light/symbol??

I finally found my tilt light. I have come to the conclusion that,among other
other things, my back glass is in rougher shape than I first thought!
The tilt lites are fine. My back glass "TILT" logo is worn so bad it is almost
impossible to see the "TILT"!!!
Anyway, when I activate my coin/micro switch slowly the pin will TILT.
The problem cropped up again this morning.
I will check the fuses, voltage & physical connections.
Replace the fuses and see.
The problem being that this situation/issue is so random that I can not
simulate it.The next time it happens I will check my voltages, before I do any thing
to the fuses!

I meant to add that when this issue crops up the machine is/does not TILT!!!

Nick, not only do the "odds" lights not light, but, there are no "odds" and no replays;
I know this because I have removed my play field glass for this particular issue!!
I place the balls so that I would get replays and then nothing.

I will check that out next time it happens. I found that the electrical lay out
with respect to the transformer is a bit confusing!
Here is a simple drawing that may help some one else!
The numbers on the transformer correspond to the numbers on the
drawing!
Feel free to add more stuff.

Transformer (resized).JPG

Transformer (resized).jpg

Well it just happened.Not sure where the odds stepper is.
But, the anti cheat relay armature/flapper is very hot; I touched it after
I turned off the power. It almost seemed(when power was applied) to be
humming (guess it didn't know the words)!
The following is what happens:
No odds lit
No feature lights
Shutter works as normal
All balls lift as normal
Bingo card lights light as normal
Timer works as normal
No replays on 3,4 or 5 in line

Steve, changing the subject for a moment, when you painted your Bikini,
did you use the the blue of the back glass sky for your base blue on your
cabinet and head?

Now I am having an issue with my green odds.
They only light and give replays when the 16 or higher odds come into play.
I noticed that the green odds set up is different than the red or yellow.
The green has a different circuit for 4,6 & 8 odds.
I am trying to find the " TO 10 Wire" place on the schematic.
Have not found it yet. It is either well hidden or I am going blind!!
I burnished and checked my anti cheat relay earlier and noticed how bad the
contacts really are. It had been changed with a very bad soldering job.
Some of the contacts are almost worn to the nub, but, seem to work for now!!

If I manually rotate the green disc past the first three odds 4,6 & 8, the odds light and I get replays!!
My initial "no odds lights" has happened once since I cleaned up my anti cheat relay.
I am still not sure of the relationship between the odds lights getting lit and the replays.
It appears the Spotting disc could come into play.I assume that the spotting disc may take the 6V
as an indication of the odds;or maybe not!!

Nick, if you notice on the schematic, the first three odds for the green, are feed different than
the other odds in green,or, the odds of the red or yellow !
If I can find where the 10 wire and the resistor are I may find a problem!

Looking at shutter motor switch 6B it sets all three color odds.
The contacts looked good. Burnished and cleaned anyway!
All three odds discs and solenoids reset every time.
To me it comes back to the first three green odds circuit.
It seem unique to the green odds!

I am also noticing that the futurity light follows the green odds.
4,6&8 = futurity 1
16 = futurity 2
etc.
When I don't have 4,6 or 8 green odds = no futurity light as well.
When I get to 16, futurity 2!
BTW, a little rub on the hand by the mixer motor fan when manually
advancing the green odds tends to wake you up!!!!

Well -------- I hope there is a good reason for the futurity 1 lamp to be in
series with the 4,6 & 8 green odds!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After further testing.
If you remove the futurity 1 lamp, green 4,6 & 8 odds do not light
BUT you will get replays.
SO, for some reason, I have got my green 4,6& 8 back!!!
I haven't really done anything other than dropping the front down a
couple of times.
I still will like to find the resistor and the # 10 wire on the end of it from/to the
futurity 1 lamp!!!

Steve, when I removed the side rail I saw the orig blue under it.
That blue looked very close the my back glass sky blue.
That why I was inquiring!

Nick, I racked up 16 games and then played for all three extra balls.
The next game was good to go.
I burnished all three NC contacts on the odds boards.
This problem is so intermittent that I cant tell when this odds thing will happen!
The two issues were/are(when it happens):
No green odds 4,6 or 8 but replays on red or yellow
OR
No odds on the first row, no red, yellow or green and NO replays

Well my intermittent " no green 4,6 & 8 odds " is now permanent!
Looking at the schematic, in the lights area, the green score disk is completing
the circuit to allow the green odds to light!
Knowing that the futurity 1 light can be removed, and things will work properly
if the 4,6&8 green are/were lit, there is more in play than just a voltage to the top of the
futurity 1 lamp!!
If I can find where the 15 ohm resistor and 10 wire get it's voltage it may also tell me
whats going on with the 4,6&8.
If, by 10 wire, they mean the 17V 10 wire, that my explain the resistor.
But , to me, that would make no sense since they could use the 6V line.
SO, this tells me that this unique set up for the green 4,6&8 , may answer the question.