Odds and ends

(Topic ID: 187445)

Odds and ends

By Terry1

1 year ago

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  • 66 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pinball_Muggle
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    There are 66 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 1 year ago

    Well I got my motors for my Bikini.
    I replaced the CU and Mixer motors.
    Things seem to be working - - - - until I noticed, on occasion , that
    both motors stop!!
    This did not happen before. Even though this happens the pin will continue to
    work once a function is applied: new game, select replays after a win, shooting balls etc.
    Almost like a legit function!!!
    Is this a situation that can happen or do I have a problem???
    Looking at the schematic quite a few switches have to be open for this to occur!!
    BTW I got I got Richard Gerlitz's videos, there GREAT!!!

    #2 1 year ago


    The motors will primarily stop if the timer hits the maximum step (#8). Check the limit switch to make sure it's opening and closing properly and is clean.

    #3 1 year ago

    Thanks Nick.
    After further review, at least on my pin, after the 5th ball is played(enters the play field)
    the timer starts; it appears to be irrelevant if the 5th ball scores or not, the pin will
    time out,even before the 5th ball has landed permanently!!
    I don't remember this happening before!
    Check out my latest find!

    The sign (resized).JPG

    #4 1 year ago

    If I get really in a groove and am playing well - making my numbers - then I come down to my last ball and bring it back to the ball return two times, spending a little cool down time between plunges, I definitely time out before the final ball has settled. No big deal, pressing the R button brings it back to life by resetting the timer unit.

    However, the timer unit cannot advance beyond step #5 until after the 5th ball is shot. In other words, the timer unit will not move freely until after the game is 'over' and the last ball is shot.

    Playing for Extra Balls will also reset the timer.

    Does that make sense? If you are experiencing a timeout well before then, then you definitely need to check your limit switch on the timer unit.

    Nice find on the topper! I'm about to mount one of those on the Multi myself!

    #5 1 year ago

    Thanks again Nick. I don't remember my pin doing this before.
    I guess the new motors sent my machine into submission!!!

    #6 1 year ago

    I was looking on you tube yesterday and noticed Steve Smith's Bingo Bikini.
    I saw it many times before, but noticed the "Bikini" name at the top has
    lights that randomly light across!
    My machine, the lights stay lit.
    Is his machine different, or is my machine not lighting properly?
    BTW what a great bingo he has!!!

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from Terry1:

    I was looking on you tube yesterday and noticed Steve Smith's Bingo Bikini.
    I saw it many times before, but noticed the "Bikini" name at the top has
    lights that randomly light across!
    My machine, the lights stay lit.
    Is his machine different, or is my machine not lighting properly?
    BTW what a great bingo he has!!!


    #8 1 year ago

    Thanks Dennis

    #9 1 year ago

    Does anyone have a picture of the ball trough metal shield;
    the cover that protects the trough switches from damage
    when moving the coin box in and out?

    #10 1 year ago

    Check this out.
    Work in progress.
    BTW not by me

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    #11 1 year ago

    Of course the pictures are in reverse order.
    One day I'll figure this stuff out.

    #12 1 year ago

    Looking through game manuals on bingo.cdyn I noticed some have
    an actual write up on how to play the game.
    I imagine this to be for the operators.
    I would like to find something like that for my Bikini machine.
    Jeff's book goes into Futurity games but I find the actual playing
    of my machine, Futurity feature, is still a bit confusing!!

    #13 1 year ago

    Terry, I'm sure others could describe it more eloquently, but I'll give it a shot.

    When you are awarded the 'OK' feature on Bikini or Lido, you do not have to play the red letter game right away. In fact, instead of highlighting a letter on the backglass, a number is lit, indicating the number of futurity increase with two or more in the orange section.

    Playing a futurity game is similar to a red letter game. Pressing the orange button on the footrail will play off the futurity game banked. There is a separate instruction card that indicates which odds and features are awarded for each futurity game number.

    When the orange button is pressed, the current game immediately ends (or a new game starts), all the balls drop, and the odds and features rack up based on the earned futurity number.

    What makes Bikini (and Lido) unique is that you can bank them. Earn a two increase in futurity? Rather than having to play a low level red letter game, keep playing until you earn another low level. Then you have a much better red letter (OK) game ready to play.

    I'm using 'red letter' to describe the actual guaranteed free game. The futurity button provides this.

    Don't know if that's more confusing? I'll re-read it later and see.

    #14 1 year ago

    IIRC, Jeffrey explains how a fellow in the diner gave up on the futurity because he screwed up and didn't collect his red letter win, accidentally pushing the orange button to play what he already had. After that, he just played them as he hit them. Just remember to bank the future OK game with the R button and play it with the orange. I should know, look at my handle!

    #15 1 year ago

    Thanks guys for the input.
    I'll get through it.
    BTW, a couple more pictures of the "bar"!

    Lock down 8 (resized).JPG

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    #16 1 year ago

    Is this a one-off or will they do any for future sale?

    #17 1 year ago

    Yes, same question... But also, did they transfer those metal tubes or make new ones?

    If they made new ones, how did they do it?

    #18 1 year ago

    steve smith was making the lockdown bars ... just the wood....ok, never mind.

    #19 1 year ago

    Steve is no longer making them with no future plans to make more (at the moment).

    #20 1 year ago

    The guy's name is Reg. I've known him for a while now.
    I knew he could do anything with wood. So, I brought over my
    lock down bar, not disassembled so he could a feel of all the
    parts, to see if he would make me one.
    I also brought over one of my side wood rails, that hold the back
    glass in place, so he could get an idea of the color and grain.
    He ended up using oak!
    He is using all of the orig parts since they are not in to bad a shape.
    The weather strip type stuff under the bar that touches the class
    will be replaced!
    As far as making more, I could ask.

    #21 1 year ago

    As I am spending more time playing my pin I am noticing that about
    every 10 games the odds do not light. When I start another game,all is well!
    When the odds do not light I went around to the back of my machine to take
    a look at the disc's. All disc's, search, spotting etc, are all sitting on rivets.
    Is there an area, or relay, etc. I should be looking at.
    It is an intermittent(pain in the ---) problem that I can not duplicate at will!!!

    #22 1 year ago

    Is it only odds lamps or features too?

    I'm leaning toward fuse block problem, though it certainly could be anti-cheat relay depending on your answer.

    #23 1 year ago

    I'll check the next time it happens.
    Al though, the balls register on the bingo card. Even if I get
    three or more in line, no replays!!!

    #24 1 year ago

    Number display uses 17v fuse and search requires solid 50v. I'm wondering if your anti-cheat might have a couple funky switches?

    Does back glass show tilt when it happens? Do replays knock off?

    #25 1 year ago

    There may be an issue with shutter motor 6B. The odds reset through this switch, so maybe it's causing the problem and not allowing advance (i.e., continual reset).

    #26 1 year ago

    I'm thinking more of a contact problem like "okorange" said.
    My 70V lines should be good since I have the balls lifting and shutter moving.
    The shutter motor contacts are/is my old friend "o'l rusty".
    I burnished those contacts good. Maybe not good enough.
    Once I find " 6B" I'll look harder at the contacts!!!

    #27 1 year ago

    Found it, location G-47. Interesting, it is common to all three score units.
    Is this part of the odds set up?

    #28 1 year ago

    This resets the odds at the beginning of a new game. I think you need to check the gap on the switch as I'm sure the contacts are fine since it does what it's supposed to. Maybe just more often than it should!

    #29 1 year ago

    I noticed that 6B is NO, your right and I will check the gap.
    Trouble being that this is an intermittent thing
    Going to be trial and error.
    I will check the NO, but not to much to stop the switch from closing!
    Thanks "okorange".

    #30 1 year ago

    Quick playing of the game(Bikini) question.
    Can you have/get the OK lit as well as ABCD(E,F or G) magic screen?

    #32 1 year ago

    Thanks Nick!

    #33 1 year ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Is it only odds lamps or features too?
    I'm leaning toward fuse block problem, though it certainly could be anti-cheat relay depending on your answer.

    Nick, after further investigation, it appears that when the odds don't light, the features light(s) do not
    light either; only general illumination, including bingo numbers!
    I am thinking the 50V is OK; the 50V motors, ball lifter, shutter work OK!

    #34 1 year ago

    If that's the case, it has to be the 3 amp fuse, the tilt relay or the anti-cheat. Does this happen after the prior game is tilted or is it completely random?

    #35 1 year ago

    My tilt mechanism is disconnected. This issue will happen randomly!
    This may sound stupid, but, I have yet to find my tilt light.
    I have tilted my machine with one of the body tilt switches,
    removed the back glass and no lights lit!
    I even looked through my back glass with a light and could not see
    the tilt symbol!!!
    But I digress, this "no odds" thing happens every 10 to 15 games, but,
    on rare occasions, I can play for 45 min or so with no issues!!

    #36 1 year ago

    I don't know if this has been covered, but are you flicking the coin switch too slowly? This will cause the anti-cheat relay to trip and tilt the game. And since your tilt light is not working.........

    #37 1 year ago

    Dennis, I always use coins. I suppose it could still happen that the micro switch
    is switching to slowly!!
    Where is my tilt light/symbol??

    #38 1 year ago

    Look at the back of your backglass and match it up. Usually two lamps illuminate the word tilt. I don't recall off hand where it is on bikini.

    The lamps might be dead, sockets cruddy, or tilt relay and or anti-cheat switch not making or dirty.

    #39 1 year ago
    Quoted from Terry1:

    Dennis, I always use coins. I suppose it could still happen that the micro switch
    is switching to slowly!!
    Where is my tilt light/symbol??

    That could very well be. The trip wire may be binding slightly.
    The tilt light is just above the 'Press Buttons Now' light.

    #41 1 year ago

    I finally found my tilt light. I have come to the conclusion that,among other
    other things, my back glass is in rougher shape than I first thought!
    The tilt lites are fine. My back glass "TILT" logo is worn so bad it is almost
    impossible to see the "TILT"!!!
    Anyway, when I activate my coin/micro switch slowly the pin will TILT.
    The problem cropped up again this morning.
    I will check the fuses, voltage & physical connections.
    Replace the fuses and see.
    The problem being that this situation/issue is so random that I can not
    simulate it.The next time it happens I will check my voltages, before I do any thing
    to the fuses!

    #42 1 year ago

    I meant to add that when this issue crops up the machine is/does not TILT!!!

    #43 1 year ago

    The lamps are all displayed along the top of the schematic, particularly, for the odds, beginning at L-13.

    To troubleshoot stuff like this, I almost always work backwards (from the coil or from the lamp) - let's start with the basic yellow odds.

    Let's look at what's in-line with the fuse (where the power is coming from):

    1) One switch on the anti-cheat relay
    2) One switch on the tilt trip relay
    3) The 3A fuse.

    Assuming all those are ok, let's connect the 'hot' side with the 'common' side to power that bulb:

    1) Yellow score disc -and/or-
    2) Spotting disc

    It's somewhere in there.

    #44 1 year ago

    Nick, not only do the "odds" lights not light, but, there are no "odds" and no replays;
    I know this because I have removed my play field glass for this particular issue!!
    I place the balls so that I would get replays and then nothing.

    #45 1 year ago

    That leads me back to either #1 or #2 in the first section above - it's either one (or more) switches that are misaligned (probably very slightly) in the anti-cheat or the tilt trip relay.

    The Anti-cheat is located along the right-side wall of the light board when looking from the back door.

    The tilt trip is within the trip bank and is much harder to see - it's about 1/3 of the way down and is comprised of two stacks of switches.

    If I'm wrong, it wouldn't be the first time but I strongly suspect it's in one of those two places that you have an issue.

    If it would help, I can pinpoint wire colors for you - sometimes that does, and sometimes it doesn't depending on the condition of the wires. Do you follow what I am saying above on the schematic?

    One important thing to note is that the schematic is drawn as if there are no problems with wire insulation or other electrical issues. What you may be experiencing is a short that is causing your 50v to drop out (which would kill your anti-cheat, effectively stopping the game and killing any odds lights). Alternatively, remember that the zero or index position on all your odds steppers will not light any lamps. The game is supposed to be stepping them on first press and may not be. This could be due to several factors, the easiest of which is that there's a mechanical (read: dirt) problem on your odds steppers.

    Next time this happens, I want you to go back into the back and check the position of your odds steppers. If you manually step one of them up, does it make a difference? What about if you press the relay armature for the anti-cheat?

    #46 1 year ago

    I will check that out next time it happens. I found that the electrical lay out
    with respect to the transformer is a bit confusing!
    Here is a simple drawing that may help some one else!
    The numbers on the transformer correspond to the numbers on the
    Feel free to add more stuff.

    Transformer (resized).JPG

    Transformer (resized).jpg

    #47 1 year ago

    Well it just happened.Not sure where the odds stepper is.
    But, the anti cheat relay armature/flapper is very hot; I touched it after
    I turned off the power. It almost seemed(when power was applied) to be
    humming (guess it didn't know the words)!
    The following is what happens:
    No odds lit
    No feature lights
    Shutter works as normal
    All balls lift as normal
    Bingo card lights light as normal
    Timer works as normal
    No replays on 3,4 or 5 in line

    #48 1 year ago

    Score stepper are mounted vertically just under the mixer - three of them.

    Game is showing symptoms of a broken solder joint.
    (I say that hoping it's not a wire - which has the same)

    #49 1 year ago

    Steve, changing the subject for a moment, when you painted your Bikini,
    did you use the the blue of the back glass sky for your base blue on your
    cabinet and head?

    #50 1 year ago

    Now I am having an issue with my green odds.
    They only light and give replays when the 16 or higher odds come into play.
    I noticed that the green odds set up is different than the red or yellow.
    The green has a different circuit for 4,6 & 8 odds.
    I am trying to find the " TO 10 Wire" place on the schematic.
    Have not found it yet. It is either well hidden or I am going blind!!
    I burnished and checked my anti cheat relay earlier and noticed how bad the
    contacts really are. It had been changed with a very bad soldering job.
    Some of the contacts are almost worn to the nub, but, seem to work for now!!

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