edit: I'm trying to undo this hack, but the molex/harness headed into J114 and the Z connector have been cut in such a way I'm not sure what is supposed to go where. The manual supposedly has errors. Does anyone have a picture of what the cable connector should look like?

Thanks!!

Hi All,

I picked up a nice Roadshow from a super nice seller locally. When we were going over the machine, I found something that I didn't expect to see, and I was puzzled for a little while there.

The short version is that someone added a "Happ Power Pro" power supply to the cabinet and spliced it into the power box molex for power and ran its +5v lines directly into the CPU/WPC-89/Fliptronics board interconnect (using wire nuts). I played a few games on it while I was there and it did work just fine. I haven't powered it on since I brought it home because I just feel funny about it.

In my usual "once over" I found lots of over-fused fuses (5A where 3A should be). The most insane was the 3/4A SB fuse for the switch matrix which had an 8A fuse in it (!!). The area around that fuse almost looks scorched, too...

Anyway, I have oodles of questions about this hack that I haven't seen anywhere else before. Pictures are attached for the curious.

1. has anyone seen this before? I'm guessing this was done because the +5V leaving the driver board was bad, but... is this as rare of a hack as I think it is?

2. Is it safe? The power pro's 5v 15amp connection is connected to the driver board, and those lines run like 3 or 5amps if I'm not mistaken... perhaps the over-fusing was intentional?

3. If I were to undo this (which I'm eager to do, and really have to before I ever try to sell this thing), I have a currently untested WPC-89 -1 (populated flipper relay) to drop in, what should I do to make sure that replacement board is good, and how likely am I to kill that board with this machine

Thanks!

2013-01-27T15-42-55_39.jpg 2013-01-27T15-42-55_23.jpg 2013-01-27T15-42-55_29.jpg

the rest of the relevant pics...

2013-01-27T15-42-55_31.jpg 2013-01-27T15-42-54_18.jpg 2013-01-27T15-42-55_35.jpg

I should add that the machine is pretty clean otherwise. There's not a lot to deal with other than this (raised inserts, dozer opto).

This might be a naive question, but can I play it as is or should I not?

Does anyone have a good reference for bench testing a WPC-89? I'm tempted to snip out this power supply and see what happens, but I'm guessing nothing exciting other than a typical non-working game missing 5v (no CPU at a minimum).

I see what happened with F115 now. Someone misread it as F114, and tossed the 8A NB in the wrong location. It sure looks toasty there, no?

Thanks!

Thank you.

I take that to mean 'fix it right away'. I guess I'll have to undo this wiring mess and pull the board. Drag.

Thank you for the very specific tips and words of encouragement.

Perhaps I was unclear. Although RoadShow is WPC-S, my understanding is that the driver board is still considered WPC-89, and that the driver board in the roadshow (which ends -3) could be replaced with my untested spare WPC-89 power driver board (which ends in -1 and has the flipper relay populated).

Thanks!

Does anyone have a picture of what J114 is supposed to look like? Mine has been really hacked up (wires cut) and I've read (here:http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roadshow-has-lost-5-volts-i-think) that the manual is wrong about J114.

I know this is a silly request, but this is my first fliptronics machine and I'm not used to the extra connections here.

Thanks!

My GI lights (backglass specifcally) dim /significantly/ when I hit the left flipper, so in my case this isn't great.

In general though, if you consider building your own machine from PinballController driver boards, those boards do not supply power and instead you just use an appropriate external power supply to provide 12v and 60v.

What's in that case is not terribly different than what's on the williams driver board, I suspect....

Sorry to bump myself here, but I'm still looking for an image to help. I'm just trying to figure out what has been cut of and spliced.

Thanks!

Bump for change of title which might help:

I'm trying to undo this hack, but the molex/harness headed into J114 and the Z connector have been cut in such a way I'm not sure what is supposed to go where. The manual supposedly has errors. Does anyone have a picture of what the cable connector should look like?

Thanks!!

Sent. Thank you in advance!