Baywatch
Sega, 1995
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992
Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
Mary Shelley's Frankenstein
Sega, 1995
Nascar
Stern, 2005
No Good Gofers
Williams, 1997You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider terryb.
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Quoted from barakandl:I dont really know what that rating means as far as handling, but I am sure wrapping them in stretch wrap stacked on top of each other is not ESD safe.
Here ya go Andrew, more than you ever wanted to know about ESD ratings. 
http://electronicdesign.com/power/what-s-difference-between-hbm-cdm-and-mm-test
Quoted from acebathound:Really my advice to people in nvram or a selling a similar product -- be somewhat civil. There's ways to compete that don't involve dropping the price to the point it's not worth anyone's time and to cause drama for everyone involved. Compete with features, or information.. or support.. or design. Some people will buy things because they like the look.. or who they're dealing with, even if the product has the same functionality.
Good advice. My business partner who ran sales used to always say he could hire a bunch of monkeys to sell based on price. Personally I've always found it more fun to add value to a product.
Just got 10 DIPS's in from the previously linked vendor--all were 120-P. Packaging was crap as others have stated. Before testing I straightened any pins and ultrasonically cleaned the pins. Three out of the 10 failed (tested multiple times).
Quoted from CactusJack:Not sure what type of Zip/Zif socket your tester has but many Zif sockets contact the IC pin on the edges that are not normally touching a normal single or double wipe IC socket.
The ZIF socket on the Inquisitor uses the pin edges and I think you're right on as to the issue.
Quoted from cfh:Vid you're wrong.
Vid and CNKay are absolutely correct. Machine sockets are used in all high reliability applications. I use them in both my profession and as a hobbyist and have never seen one "lift with my pinky." I suggest you buy better quality sockets, and as Vid explained it is not the round part that makes the contact with the flat pins, it is the "box."
Quoted from vid1900:Don't buy cheap ones.
In any case, either would be acceptable in a pinball machine.
Quoted from vid1900:Machine Pin sockets have a 90 gram per pin withdrawal force ratings, so a standard 16 pin DIP would require over 3 pounds of lift.
He has very strong pinkies.
I know this is a thread on buying Chinese crap, but I would suggest people get their machined sockets from GPE. Seventy cents each and you know you're getting a good quality product.
Quoted from barakandl:No more than a few dollars each.
At that price, it's a knock-off. Twenty bucks for a 3M ZIF at mouser.
Quoted from dudah:Main, what a pain. I spent the last 90 minutes reworking my CPU board.
Shouldn't be that hard with a Hakko. My first guess would be you're not wiggling the lead as you hit the suction on the Hakko. I would also suggest you use a spudger (covered in the article) to break free that last little bit of solder that sticks the lead to the side of the through-hole.
See the following article which covers the Hakko desoldering gun, but the technique is the same.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/3#post-2753805
Also make sure your setup has been properly cleaned and is cleaned fairly often while in use. Dirty filters, clogged tips, etc. will drop the suction power dramatically. The manual will provide the proper cleaning techniques and the following post will give you an idea of how often you need to clean the unit (this covers the FR300, but the frequency of cleaning is the same).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1#post-2728526
P.S. - The entire article is suggested reading before replacing RAM chips.
Not sure how this happened but the chip is not fitted properly in the socket. Note the gap on the bottom right pins. Probably something similar going on with the upper pins.
More likely to be the traces MorAlb pointed out, but something is not right with the way the chip is inserted into the socket.
As lyondsen stated it has spread to components below the battery holder. See the following for neutralization techniques. If left untreated it will continue to spread and damage traces.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage
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Banning, CA